Looking for a powered sub for my 2012 vert..
 

Looking to upgrade my factory Shaker500 with Nav Sub for my Vert
Thinking of 4 Kappa's 6x8's for front doors and rear seats. but also wanted to improve the bass.

looking for everyones opinon?
thanks
Charlie

Good choice on the kappas. I am enjoying them. Used foam double sided tape for the crossovers.

Since your going with the Infinity's why dont you just get a Infinity Basslink powered subwoofer. Its a 10 inch woofer and sounds pretty good.

Good suggestion. Amazon sells it for $188 and it has 100 reviews with 4 1/2 stars. http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Bassl.../dp/B000063TJY

Optionally there's a Basslink II for $241 http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Refer...8031785&sr=1-2

does anyone have one of the basslinks in a mustang application? Reviews?

Its choppy on reviews online, tend to have high failure rates, however 2 year warranty from infinity and proper setup/care seem to be the norm.

Just installed it this past weekend in my 2011 GT with shaker 500. It takes up less space than the shaker 1000 and sits in the same location. The whole system sounds much fuller and cleaner as I am able to cut some bass down on the head unit. I also replaced the front door 6x8 speakers a while back.

The basslink has high level inputs built in so I was able to tap in the front 8 inch door sub speaker wires at the factory sub-amp in the drivers kick panel. The basslink does not need a remote turn if you do use the high level inputs as it is able to turn on by sensing the signal on the high level inputs.

In addition to the high level inputs all you need is power and ground. Fits perfectly in the passenger rear corner of the trunk (right behind the taillight) Takes up minimum space as I can still fit my Dad's wheel chair in there.

I picked up my basslink used for less $100 on craigslist a while back and originally installed it in my 2001 740i. Had it sitting around so decided to put it in the stang. The enclosure is small compared to other powered sub systems out there. The reason it is this way is because it has one active 10 inch sub powered by a 200 watt RMS class D mono amp and another 10 inch passive radiator sub that is used to create more space in the small enclosure.

I 100% recommend. Second best mod after my koni yellows and steeda sports.

the basslink ii is a sweet sub. I loved it.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL126.../394670992.jpg

The kappas are perfect(hahaha infinity joke). I have had them in my cars since high school. They has great sound and last forever. I have had them in four differnt cars over the years.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL126.../394304991.jpg

Pics...

awesome. I'm going to track one down. Now I just have to decide basslink I or basslink II, and make sure I get a couple years out of the warranty.

When you tapped the driver's amp, did you just run two pairs of speaker wire taps back to the amp? (being DVC, I'm not sure what wires I'd exactly tap). I'm assuming this clears the issue of the factory rolloff on bass frequencies to the other speakers. Certainly cheaper than a nice LOC.

I have had my basslink I for over 4yrs. My brother has had his for longer than that. Seriously you could pick up used basslink on craigslist for possibly a $100. Thats not too much to spend considering other options out there.

I tapped one voice coil of each door sub. The basslink has four high level inputs. FR, FL, RR, RL. U could use both voice coils on each sub if u would like but I dont think its necessary. I only did 2 as I wasn't sure if the door subs were stereo subs or mono. If mono you would only need to do one.

awesome. When you ran it back did you pick up any noise? I'm guessing the only thing I'd need to do with that conduit of wire would be keep it away from the power feed. (which should 8ga be sufficient or 4?)


There's on on CL, if I can get the guy to let me at least test it I'll nab it.

thanks for the help. This is exactly what I was looking for. Lightweight, easily integrated/mounted, and take some stress off the door panels.

I tapped off the front speaker wires. The good loc only runs 30-40 bucks. The basslink ii is far louder.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL126.../394795858.jpg

8 gauge is more than sufficient and I ran the high levels separate from power. Power went down the passenger side and high levels went down the drivers side.

Could have got the speaker inputs from the trunk but I read on some forum that the headunit reduces bass to the 6x8's as u increase the volume on the HU as to reduce distortion to the speakers. The sub level inputs cant be tapped in the trunk. I just played it safe and got the signal from the subs in front.

Does the basslink II come with high level inputs? The basslink I has it so no need to get a LOC.

I ordered a basslink II. We'll see how it goes. I wonder if I should try installing it in the spare tire well, or where they normally install the shaker 1k subs.

You are going to love it

All this has me confused!!!!

I want to add a little more base to my 500 system retaining everything else factory.

Is it better to get a single sub In a box and an amp or this baselink you speak of?? Lol

What's quicker and more factory?

The basslink is more of an all in one solution. Its also very "space friendly". It can be run off the speaker wires in the back of the car so you dont need a Line output converter (PAC SNI-35). I prefer having that LOC however and using RCA's. The best thing to do is find someone who has one or go to an audio store that sells them and listen to one.

That baselink is a sub and amp. Hmm sounds like something nice and quick without having to remove the head unit...