'10-14 Interior and Audio Place to discuss 2010-2014 interior and audio type modifications.

Installed new front speakers

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Old 6/12/13, 08:17 PM
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I'm hoping to be ready in about a month. Right now I have just ONE changed speaker in my car (driver's door) and what a difference. As soon as I get the revised adapters, I will replace that one and install the passenger side. I still need to make a connection to a vendor for a good price on the speakers. The rear of each gets drilled and tapped so the stock 10 mm bolt can be reused to help secure the speaker from the back side. Some other small details to also work out, but this project looks very promising.
Old 6/12/13, 09:46 PM
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It's not the best picture, but I took this at Fabulous Fords Forever - not under the stock grilles, but the JL ones look OEM and look great!
Attached Thumbnails Installed new front speakers-image-4003313107.jpg  

Last edited by laserred38; 6/12/13 at 09:51 PM.
Old 6/12/13, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by laserred38
It's not the best picture, but I took this at Fabulous Fords Forever - not under the stock grilles, but the JL ones look OEM and look great!
Wow, yea that looks good to me. That will work. Are these the same JLs that ColSaulTigh was talking about? How do they sound and was it pretty much plug and play. (light cutting of wires I assume)

Originally Posted by Shipey
I'm hoping to be ready in about a month. Right now I have just ONE changed speaker in my car (driver's door) and what a difference. As soon as I get the revised adapters, I will replace that one and install the passenger side. I still need to make a connection to a vendor for a good price on the speakers. The rear of each gets drilled and tapped so the stock 10 mm bolt can be reused to help secure the speaker from the back side. Some other small details to also work out, but this project looks very promising.
Ok good deal, I would still like to see how this turns out so I will hold out til then. I don't have my car yet anyway
Old 6/12/13, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Shipey
I am very close to a solution for those who want to keep the stock door sub amp and wiring and the factory speaker grill and trim ring. In short, a better sounding replacement speaker behind all the stock trim. I am now waiting on the third trial of a custom adapter/modified 6.5" speaker that sounds great. The speaker is more efficient than the stock 8" and sounds better. Would that be the solution you are looking for?
I have read that factory subs are 2 ohm. Are your replacements 2 ohm or just a speaker with a really high sensitivity rating.
Old 6/12/13, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Ajcruz1

Wow, yea that looks good to me. That will work. Are these the same JLs that ColSaulTigh was talking about? How do they sound and was it pretty much plug and play. (light cutting of wires I assume)

Ok good deal, I would still like to see how this turns out so I will hold out til then. I don't have my car yet anyway

I didn't install them, but the old shop I used to work at put them in a few S197s. Install shouldn't be too hard. I believe they are 4ohm though, so you'll want a better amp for them. They sound amazing. It's a midbass speaker though, not a sub - they shine from 80-300hz.
Old 6/13/13, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Ajcruz1
Wow, yea that looks good to me. That will work. Are these the same JLs that ColSaulTigh was talking about? How do they sound and was it pretty much plug and play. (light cutting of wires I assume)



Ok good deal, I would still like to see how this turns out so I will hold out til then. I don't have my car yet anyway
They are not JL's, but modified Bazookas. They are a 2 ohm DVC and work with the stock door sub amp as intended.
Old 6/13/13, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Shipey

They are not JL's, but modified Bazookas. They are a 2 ohm DVC and work with the stock door sub amp as intended.
I think his first quote was asking about the JL ZR800 I posted a pic of. Interested to see the ones you're working on though...
Old 7/21/13, 08:07 PM
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Repalcements for OEM 8" Door Subs

I am still working on this project, and am awaiting the third generation of the 6.5" to 8.0" adapters. I now have both speakers in the bottoms of the doors, along with Pioneer TS-D6902R in the tops of the doors and in the rear sail panel (my car is a convertible). The Shaker 500 sounds great with this speaker setup, and the car now has considerably more bass without losing trunk space. The bass is a big improvement over the factory 8" door subs. My goal was to develop a system that is plug and play with the factory amplification and factory wirings, and it's working out great.

The speakers test at 1.6 ohms each, which means they work on the 2005-12 cars requiring a 1.2 ohm dvc speaker, and will work with the 2013-14 cars requiring a 2.0 ohm dvc speaker.

I am hoping to market these subs with adapters as a kit. If anyone is interested, let me know.
Old 7/21/13, 08:08 PM
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Sorry for the typo. Pioneer TS-D6802R is the correct number.
Old 7/21/13, 08:12 PM
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How much would the door subwoofer kit cost?
Old 7/21/13, 08:23 PM
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I'mdef. interested. Just let me know!
Old 7/21/13, 09:43 PM
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I would also like to know if you have an estimated cost on your kits.

Last edited by smike308; 7/21/13 at 10:24 PM.
Old 7/21/13, 09:56 PM
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I'm interested too.
Old 7/22/13, 06:27 AM
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Interested here also.
Old 7/24/13, 08:00 PM
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To make it worthwhile, I'd have to charge $289.00 for a pair, which includes the shipping.

What do you think?
Old 7/24/13, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Shipey
To make it worthwhile, I'd have to charge $289.00 for a pair, which includes the shipping.

What do you think?
Does this include everything we need to install?
Old 7/24/13, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Shipey
I am still working on this project, and am awaiting the third generation of the 6.5" to 8.0" adapters. I now have both speakers in the bottoms of the doors, along with Pioneer TS-D6902R in the tops of the doors and in the rear sail panel (my car is a convertible). The Shaker 500 sounds great with this speaker setup, and the car now has considerably more bass without losing trunk space. The bass is a big improvement over the factory 8" door subs. My goal was to develop a system that is plug and play with the factory amplification and factory wirings, and it's working out great.

The speakers test at 1.6 ohms each, which means they work on the 2005-12 cars requiring a 1.2 ohm dvc speaker, and will work with the 2013-14 cars requiring a 2.0 ohm dvc speaker.

I am hoping to market these subs with adapters as a kit. If anyone is interested, let me know.
Pics? You mentioned the model # of the pioneers up top, what model are the bazookas? Remember to post pics btw
Old 7/25/13, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Ajcruz1
Does this include everything we need to install?
It would be the modified Bazookas mounted to the adapters. You would reuse the factory trim ring, factory grille cover, and 8 front mounting screws. I would provide Dynamat (or similar product) to help deaden the sound chamber box, and female ends for factory harness so it can be plugged into the Bazooka. Because the factory harness is soldered to the positive and negative speaker terminals, this harness has to be cut and fitted with the female spade connectors. A longer than stock bolt and washer would be provided to go through the back of the speaker box and into the rear of the speaker for support and better bass response.

I plan on making a few sets for sale to see how it goes. The whole project was more about a better solution for my car than making money on it.

The Bazooka is a WF621.5DV, and is marketed as a replacement speaker for a Bazooka Tube. It's probably the only commonly available speaker that will work well with the factory amp. Kicker now has a 1 ohm and 2 ohm model in a 6.5, but the factory amp may not work well because they build their speakers to take more high power abuse.
Old 7/25/13, 09:26 PM
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Ok cool I'm in. Just let us know when you have everything together. Price seems good.
Old 9/7/13, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Subiaur
Is there a RH & LH spacer? Both the ones I got from ford say "RH UP" on them. I ordered two of the part number in the picture above

Or does that mean that on the LH side I put the "RH UP" Down?


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