Yep it’s out of an ‘11...my understanding was the amp was in the trunk for ‘10-12, but that did cross my mind, I’ll need to research some more...call me simple, wiring diagrams are kind of jibberish to me. Thanks for the assist! Looks like I’ll need to get some programming done still anyway.

There are two amps, one in the trunk and one under the driver side kick panel. I can take a picture of the connector on the kick panel amp, I have one laying around.
I’ve been in your shoes, it took me a long time to finally understand wiring diagrams and now I love them!

Wiring diagrams are your best friend!

Doesn’t help I took one post and assumed only the 13’s and up had the kick panel sub. I’m a *******! *facepalm

Gonna give the pony a flash Wednesday, if things still aren’t working after that, calling bottoms and heading to the dealer for help, haha. Otherwise...add another (somewhat) successful swap to the list!

Hello All!

This is my first post on this forum and I wanted to start off by thanking everyone in here for all the great information. I studied this forum for a while before I completed the nav swap in my '13 almost two years ago. I tackled it without removing the dash which was kind of a pain but manageable. I kept single zone climate and I guess I didn't get the climate harness included with the parts I bought so my temperature has been reversed the whole time. The only weird problem I have is that my FM radio does not work and it is just static with a hint of sound playing. Could be as simple as a wire not plugged in properly or maybe it’s a harness problem. I haven't looked into it yet since I listen to BT audio most of the time.

I have a question that someone may be able to help me out with. Just out of curiosity (and possibility that I may be selling the car) I was wondering if it was possible to do a reserve swap back to the standard radio without changing the harness back? Reason I would do this would be to return to a true OEM setup that wouldn't have the setbacks of a nav swapped car without dual climate, etc. If I remember correctly, it seemed as if the nav harness was mostly the same as the harness my car came with, with the exception of the extra plug ins for the nav components. I've always had a theory that I could plug in the standard radio with all of its associated modules and have it work just like it did before the swap but with some unused plug ins from the nav part. Is this possible or am I just crazy? Thanks in advance!

Dont know if this was fixed yet, I had the auto defrost issue after I did my swap. First I was just unhooking the battery to let it reset until that didnt work. Long story short, my actuator for the vents was bad. Replaced it, all was good.

Seem like it should.. just pull the nav and try it. Should be easy.

Still not fixed, battery reset didn’t work, I’ve been putting forscan together and am going to try that this afternoon, hopefully that’ll get all the 1’s and 0’s aligned. If not, then it has to be mechanical...suddenly...

Add an amp
 

[QUOTE=jim010;6518160]The OEM amp is located in the trunk. It is not the same amp or bracket as the Shaker1000, by the way.


I'd like to add an amp to my system. Mine has shaker head unit but no trunk subs. Stereo controls on steering wheel , backup camera on the wing and uses rear view mirror for the display. It has the Ford sync in it as well but is no longer supported. Would be really nice to have a touch display bit not sure what would all be required to do that

I have an extra OEM amp if you are interested.

Figured out my issue...the “2011” ACM I got, I pulled it again and checked the sticker, and it’s from a ‘14, I just missed the part number.

I’ll offer a one for one swap for my idiocy if anyone has an extra ‘11 Nav ACM lying around, haha...tried to reprogram via FORScan and no luck.

I don't have a swap, but how much for the 14 ACM?

PM sent

OEM Nav
 

I have a 2014 Mustang with the shaker audio system. I recently bought a OEM Nav from a 2013 Mustang. I plugged in the wires I could and when I was done. Only the bottom part of the dash was working. (The Ac, heated seats, defroster) The screen would not turn on, is it possible to get the screen working? Do I have to buy certain harnesses
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/themust...c53e0e413.jpeg
?

If you didn't get the proper dash harness, then, no, it won't work.

Hi, I finally make all the speakers work with a after market amp, and change the steering wheel button but the bad news is that the phone button and the user device still doesn’t work
can someone help me?



https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/themust...61fc347136.jpg

QUOTE=jim010;7039804]That isn't the right switch. You need the one that does not have "OK" on it.

Your phone button will not work with the old switch.

I still think there is a bent pin somewhere for your speaker issue, if all the other speakers work.

Interesting that you can't see the photos. I can see them all...[/QUOTE]

I wonder if the pin diagram will work in the 07. I know you can put these in the 05-09 but it is tricky.
I have the radio and hopefully the right amp (?)
Would the pins be the same?

I've been following this for a year or two now and finally decided to bite the bullet, since the after market units look like absolute crap. I've read through most of this and it doesn't sound like too bad of a mod to do. However, it will definitely be the biggest mod, I have done on my 2013, so I am slightly worried about not having everything correct or missing something, where I have to either put everything back together to try again later or have my car completely apart until I get the missing part(s). I have most of the parts in Jim010's list, and I'm planning to go the extra step, doing the dual zone climate control. I have a few questions though and was hoping any of you might be able to help me out here, a lot of them are more about the evaporator housing (DR3Z-19850-B) than anything else.


These first two are more of just conformation questions to make sure, I have read all this right, and the rest are just things that I couldn't find in the comments I read, but anyways.

1. The evaporator housing (DR3Z-19850-B) is a part on a dual zone evaporator core/evaporator assembly and I need to buy the whole dual zone evaporator core/evaporator assembly, since the evaporator housing is not typically sold separately?
2. The evaporator housing needs to be swapped off the dual zone evaporator core/evaporator assembly and installed onto the single zone evaporator core/evaporator assembly that's already in the car, so I won't have to drain the freon?
3. Does anyone have any better pictures of the evaporator housing (DR3Z-19850-B) and/or have any tips to keep in mind when buying it, since it's one of the most expensive parts, I'm trying to avoid buying the wrong thing?
4. When I search for the evaporator housing (DR3Z-19850-B), the only thing that comes up is a replacement/substitute part # DR3Z-19850-D, are they the same thing? Does this still work, or do I have to get DR3Z-19850-B for all this to work in my 2013?
5. I read somewhere in here, that the main dash harness has to be the car's build date or greater, I'm having trouble finding a 2013 harness that supports heated seats and the nav with a build date of 11/12. Does anyone have the part number for a harness that should work? The ford dealers in the area are all owned by a family friend, who knows me and my car too well and won't help me locate the part number since ford says it can't be done. I'm tired of being told if I want to add nav to my car, I should trade my car in for a newer model instead.
6. Is removing the steering wheel to do everything required or just highly recommended to make things easier? I already had to remove my steering wheel in the past and I wasn't the biggest fan of doing it then, if I can avoid doing it again I would rather do that instead.

Any help on any of this is appreciated, thanks in advance for anyone who can help!!

Hey Mike, when I purchased mine I got the entire evaporator housing tho you only need the top section with the dual motors and door set up. I was able to take the pieces off without removing the entire thing from my car, I would also recommend getting the harness that comes with the dual zone unit since it has the needed wires.

I did remove my steering wheel but removed the entire assembly from the car it honestly wasnt that bad is a few connectors and 4 bolts along with the one that holds the steering shaft in place.

It most certainly can be done and once you have all the parts its actually very easy to do honestly, it took me a afternoon to do and im happy that I did.

Sync add?
 

Random add here - I’m going from a base to nav instal. Have everything working...except GPS/Sync, despite following everything to the letter. The 2009 sync kit retrofit seems popular, but my understanding is with the wiring harness swap, it should not be a factor at all. Can anyone confirm this with a successful sync add? All other forums reference the ‘09 kit harness. I’ll try jumping back into programming this weekend, but it seems the APIM is not receiving power - so maybe a SJB flash or something, I dunno...