2013 Stereo Upgrage questions
6/21/12, 11:27 AM
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2013 Stereo Upgrage questions
I have a base model 2013 on order and I'm trying to get all my parts lined up for when it gets here in the next few weeks, mainly for the stereo. I'm gonna get a double din with probably the new touch screen Metra unit, already have 4 new 5x7' speakers and I'd like to put a 12" sub and amp in the trunk. I'm not an experienced stereo install guy but from all the threads I've got saved on installs then I can manage to do it myself because I really don't want some boneheads at the local Car Audio shop to tear into my new car and charge me $500 to do so. I'll have no problems with the HU and 5x7's but I've never messed with Subs or an amp and don't know what all wiring accessories I will need. Now to my questions.
1. I was looking at the JL Audio stealthbox as a sub because I need all the trunk space i can get and they seem to get good reviews. I don't want to rattle the whole neighborhood with bass but I'd like to have a good thump on the inside when I'm in the mood for it. This piece is pretty expensive but probably would be close to the same for a sub and built box from the local shop (they are pretty high). Is this piece worth the money?
2. I have no idea about amps other than what I read on Crutchfield so I'm not sure which kind I need for my setup. The stealthbox says its rated for 150-600 watts RMS so I thought about a 300-500 watt amp would be sufficient for good bass, am I wrong? Also says Stealthbox is wired for 4-ohms mono so would I need a mono class D 4 ohm amp? I was thinking the HU would be good enough to run the 5x7's since I don't really turn it up very loud and the Shaker 500 with just new front 5x7's in my 2011 sounds pretty dang good to me.
3. Lastly, what all kind of wiring would I need for the sub and amp? I assume I need something to wire the amp to the battery, rca jacks for the sub to the amp, I've read on here about a line convertor (I don't know what that is), what about something I can adjust the power of the bass by turning a **** or something? With the new HU will I need to run new wiring to the 5x7's or will the stock wires work since the stock harness just plugs into the back of the HU?
I might just end up installing the HU and 5x7's by myself then paying to have the sub and amp installed depending on what info I can find about it. Sorry for all the questions and thanks in advance for any help with my questions.
1. I was looking at the JL Audio stealthbox as a sub because I need all the trunk space i can get and they seem to get good reviews. I don't want to rattle the whole neighborhood with bass but I'd like to have a good thump on the inside when I'm in the mood for it. This piece is pretty expensive but probably would be close to the same for a sub and built box from the local shop (they are pretty high). Is this piece worth the money?
2. I have no idea about amps other than what I read on Crutchfield so I'm not sure which kind I need for my setup. The stealthbox says its rated for 150-600 watts RMS so I thought about a 300-500 watt amp would be sufficient for good bass, am I wrong? Also says Stealthbox is wired for 4-ohms mono so would I need a mono class D 4 ohm amp? I was thinking the HU would be good enough to run the 5x7's since I don't really turn it up very loud and the Shaker 500 with just new front 5x7's in my 2011 sounds pretty dang good to me.
3. Lastly, what all kind of wiring would I need for the sub and amp? I assume I need something to wire the amp to the battery, rca jacks for the sub to the amp, I've read on here about a line convertor (I don't know what that is), what about something I can adjust the power of the bass by turning a **** or something? With the new HU will I need to run new wiring to the 5x7's or will the stock wires work since the stock harness just plugs into the back of the HU?
I might just end up installing the HU and 5x7's by myself then paying to have the sub and amp installed depending on what info I can find about it. Sorry for all the questions and thanks in advance for any help with my questions.
6/21/12, 12:10 PM
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I have the Stealthbox in my car. I am using a the JL Audio 500.1 Amp to power it. I am using Factory HU with Line-out convertor.
IF you have an aftermarket HU you won't need a line convertor. Line convertor is only if you want to use the factory HU. Aftermarket HU will have RCA jacks.
If you are replacing your speakers too .. then you could get an AMP that would power both the speakers and Sub if you want the speakers amped.
IF you have an aftermarket HU you won't need a line convertor. Line convertor is only if you want to use the factory HU. Aftermarket HU will have RCA jacks.
If you are replacing your speakers too .. then you could get an AMP that would power both the speakers and Sub if you want the speakers amped.
6/24/12, 06:01 AM
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Check out the Alpine PDX-V9. It's a 5 channel amp with 100W RMS x 4 and 500W RMS for the sub. It actually puts out closer to 600W on the sub and 125W per channel on the highs, but they rate them conservatively. It's a very efficient digital amp, too, so you'll only need 4 AWG power and ground wires.
As for supplies, first, you'll need the aforementioned power kit with a 100 AMP inline fuse. There are many brands out there. I happen to like the kicker kits because the wire is very soft and easy to work with. They can be found on ebay pretty reasonable. Next, you'll need 3 pairs of RCA cables to reach the amp. I would spend a little bit of money here and get thicker shielded ones. No need to go crazy. The ebay $30-40 a pair ones are more than sufficient. For speaker wire, I'd run 16 AWG to the door and deck speakers and at least 12 or 14 AWG to the Stealthbox. The Scosche stuff they have at Walmart works great, and it's cheap. Finally, you'll need the radio bezel you mentioned, a bunch of assorted cable ties, loom, and connectors, and a factory integration adapter like the Pac C2R-FRD1 .
Plan on spending the better part of 2 or 3 days if you really want to do it right and make it look nice. Good luck on the install. I'm getting ready to do a similar system in my car with the PDX-V9 and the Stealthbox with high-line Infinity Kappas, except mine has factory nav, so I have to use a mondo expensive Audiocontrol DQL-8 integration processor for mine.
As for supplies, first, you'll need the aforementioned power kit with a 100 AMP inline fuse. There are many brands out there. I happen to like the kicker kits because the wire is very soft and easy to work with. They can be found on ebay pretty reasonable. Next, you'll need 3 pairs of RCA cables to reach the amp. I would spend a little bit of money here and get thicker shielded ones. No need to go crazy. The ebay $30-40 a pair ones are more than sufficient. For speaker wire, I'd run 16 AWG to the door and deck speakers and at least 12 or 14 AWG to the Stealthbox. The Scosche stuff they have at Walmart works great, and it's cheap. Finally, you'll need the radio bezel you mentioned, a bunch of assorted cable ties, loom, and connectors, and a factory integration adapter like the Pac C2R-FRD1 .
Plan on spending the better part of 2 or 3 days if you really want to do it right and make it look nice. Good luck on the install. I'm getting ready to do a similar system in my car with the PDX-V9 and the Stealthbox with high-line Infinity Kappas, except mine has factory nav, so I have to use a mondo expensive Audiocontrol DQL-8 integration processor for mine.
6/24/12, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 2012WhiteGT
Check out the Alpine PDX-V9. It's a 5 channel amp with 100W RMS x 4 and 500W RMS for the sub. It actually puts out closer to 600W on the sub and 125W per channel on the highs, but they rate them conservatively. It's a very efficient digital amp, too, so you'll only need 4 AWG power and ground wires.
As for supplies, first, you'll need the aforementioned power kit with a 100 AMP inline fuse. There are many brands out there. I happen to like the kicker kits because the wire is very soft and easy to work with. They can be found on ebay pretty reasonable. Next, you'll need 3 pairs of RCA cables to reach the amp. I would spend a little bit of money here and get thicker shielded ones. No need to go crazy. The ebay $30-40 a pair ones are more than sufficient. For speaker wire, I'd run 16 AWG to the door and deck speakers and at least 12 or 14 AWG to the Stealthbox. The Scosche stuff they have at Walmart works great, and it's cheap. Finally, you'll need the radio bezel you mentioned, a bunch of assorted cable ties, loom, and connectors, and a factory integration adapter like the Pac C2R-FRD1 .
Plan on spending the better part of 2 or 3 days if you really want to do it right and make it look nice. Good luck on the install. I'm getting ready to do a similar system in my car with the PDX-V9 and the Stealthbox with high-line Infinity Kappas, except mine has factory nav, so I have to use a mondo expensive Audiocontrol DQL-8 integration processor for mine.
As for supplies, first, you'll need the aforementioned power kit with a 100 AMP inline fuse. There are many brands out there. I happen to like the kicker kits because the wire is very soft and easy to work with. They can be found on ebay pretty reasonable. Next, you'll need 3 pairs of RCA cables to reach the amp. I would spend a little bit of money here and get thicker shielded ones. No need to go crazy. The ebay $30-40 a pair ones are more than sufficient. For speaker wire, I'd run 16 AWG to the door and deck speakers and at least 12 or 14 AWG to the Stealthbox. The Scosche stuff they have at Walmart works great, and it's cheap. Finally, you'll need the radio bezel you mentioned, a bunch of assorted cable ties, loom, and connectors, and a factory integration adapter like the Pac C2R-FRD1 .
Plan on spending the better part of 2 or 3 days if you really want to do it right and make it look nice. Good luck on the install. I'm getting ready to do a similar system in my car with the PDX-V9 and the Stealthbox with high-line Infinity Kappas, except mine has factory nav, so I have to use a mondo expensive Audiocontrol DQL-8 integration processor for mine.
What are you gonna do with the subs in the doors?
6/25/12, 08:36 PM
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For now I'm just gonna leave them hooked to the Shaker500 amps and see how they sound. I might install some potentiometers on the signal side of the amps to attenuate them a little if they distort at high volume. Later, I'll probably replace them with the Shelby Kicker drop in replacements and install a little dedicated amp. I just don't have any money left right now. LOL
I'll definitely take pictures as I'm installing it. Hopefully I'll get the time to get it done in the next couple weeks.
I'll definitely take pictures as I'm installing it. Hopefully I'll get the time to get it done in the next couple weeks.
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