No 3.5L V6 EB Transit in Europe in 2011, manual or auto.

Auto Trans
 

Awesome build! Just picked up and fixed a 2014 V6 with 34,000 miles for $6000, all in (fees, repairs), I'm at $8500 (electrical issues....). Does this swap work with an auto trans/driveshaft/rear-end? I'm fairly inclined, mechanically and electrically, I'm in school for electrical&computer engineering :) however, rather than do a turbo install, I saw this thread. No debt=fun times. :D

Wow I guess that guy was driving a diesel, unbelievable :salute:

Wow what a steal! Yes the 3.5 ecoboost will bolt right in to your car and has a much better bottom end than your 3.7.

With a standard trans I would recommend the control pack and use the factory PCM as well. I have no idea what problems you will encounter but I think you will have less issues than what we've had.

For auto I would use the factory f150 PCM, engine wiring harness, and transmission. You'll need a custom driveshaft made too. Expect 6-9 months of nights and weekends to get it done, probably more. This is a very challenging path to take.

Haven't got much done lately, the weather here is really cold and lots of snow. Also me and Lexiion have been sick with something that's going around, I was feeling bad for 8 days straight. Looks like we will be able to get together soon and make more headway on finishing the interior wiring.

I have been working on some items to meet nhra requirements for the race in June. Mainly a sealed battery box vented to the outside and a on/off battery switch. I've got an idea to mount the switch in the license plate bezel, it won't be that noticeable there.

Im still not done with this Taylor battery box, it's hard to get motivated when your not feeling well. :drool:

Changed out my rear shocks to Strange 10 way adjustables while Lexiion spent a couple hours wiring tonight. This weekend I'll work on the kill-switch wiring, reverse light wiring and the lower control arm relocation brackets.

Installed

I also have this steeda adjustable upper control arm to install.

These are all my rearend upgrades so far.....
1. Whiteline rear sway bar
2. Whiteline lower control arm relocation brackets
3. UPR lower control arms
4. Gt500 13.8" rear brake upgrade
5. Raybestos racing brake pads
6. Strange 10 way adjustable shocks
7. Steeda adjustable upper control arm
8. 3.73 gears
9. Bump stop relocation kit
10. Future mod....whiteline watts link

I'm going to sell my 1997 cobra with only 8k original miles, I need to make room for another project. If anyone is interested PM me.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang...m=182015343044

If you want to see an ecoboost f150 outrun at least 20 different cars check this out.

Installed my sparco kill switch to be nhra compliant for rear mount battery. I drilled a 1" hole in my license plate bezel then the holes for the bolts.

Mounted the switch

With the key.

If I understand the instructions you can remove the key with the battery on so you only have to put the key in at the track.

Removed the right side tail light. Drilled 2 1" holes through the body, installed grommets and ran the wires through.

Inside the car I added these rubber covered clamps to hold the wires.

I used 1 ga wire and ring terminals, covered the ends with heat shrink. I attached these ends to the switch.

This switch has a built in low voltage relay to hook to the ignition, this makes sure the car turns off with the switch. I ran 2 18 ga wires back from here to the dash, we will attach them to the igibtion wires later.

Another pic

Got the battery box finished too.

Go Broncos!!!:woohoo:

:banana: Yea!!! :banana: