Prep for Drag Racing
 

OK guy's, I'm looking to going with 15 X 10 wheels with Drag Radials/Slicks.
I've read here and else where that, When going with the wider tires, they don't just bolt up, you have to put a Relocation Kit on? What and where? If you run Drag Radials or Slicks, you need to weld your axle tubes to the rear end housing? I plan on buying 2 dedicated rims for the drag tires, so I can swap out before going to the track and then back to street tires for cruising.
I have the GT500 Lower control arms, I was thinking about a roll bar (Tire Hop) but I've heard you can't run that on the street. I have limited knowledge on this new stuff, I haven't been into drag racing since the early to mid 1980's, I had a Pro-Street truck then, WOW, things have changed GREATLY. Know that I'm 55 years old and set to retire in 5 months from the Navy, I have the time and money to play around with a car again, that's why I ordered my dream car "MORGAN" 2013 GT Premium, Glass roof, Auto trans, 3.15 gears. Stock 245 Nero's.
Take pity and school this "old" man.:salute:
Morgan is presently rockin: Boss 302 Intake manifold, Steeda CAI, very soon-Kook's 1-3/4" X 3" Stainless Headers, Kook's Green catted H-Pipe, Has Roush Axle Back mufflers, Steeda Rear seat X-Brace, Steeda Strut Tower brace, Steeda Torque box brace and stiffeners, Steeda Panhard Bar brace, Steeda K-member brace, Steeda 3.5" Aluminum driveshaft, Steeda Driveshaft safety loop, SCT X4 Tuner, Running Steeda 93 Octane tune.

The relocation kits is talking about moving the rear sway bar inward to clear the tire.
there are some good videos online that show how to do this.
I would rec. a drag radial with the auto trans.
also you might want to do a set of BMR lower and upper arms with lower arm relocation brackets. This will really plant the rear tires and avoid any wheel hoop.
Call BMR they sell all these parts and are very helpful and knowledgeable.

:agree: Drag radial all the way with an auto. Then you can get 17 or 18 inch wheels then you will not have to worry about clearance issues.Call MT and they will suggest the correct tire.

I will first and foremost state that I'm not a drag racer (more about gong fast through corners), but isn't 3.15 on an Auto a bit too low for drag racing gearing? I would figure 3.31 or 3.55 might be a more beneficial setup along with a higher rev capable stall converter.

No need to weld up the tubes unless you're making serious power and running bias slick. I ran my 600RWHP stang at the track several times with no issues with the axles.
If you run the relocation brackets, you might have to grind some of the lower control mount since the sway bar might rub. I had to do this and if you do a Google search you'll read others also had to do this using BMR LCAs and relocation brackets.

You could be right about the gears, That's what she came with. If I keep doing this more I would probably try the 3.31's. I'm not looking to beat everyone, more as an amusing pastime for me.

I wonder how wide a Drag radial I could go (I will buy wheels to fit) without having to put relocation brackets. If the rain would hold off around here, I could start spending time at my local drag strip and start asking my questions there also.

Thank you very much. I didn't know which one to pick but the drag radial does seem to make more sense to me also.

Its not the tire you have to worry about, its the width of the wheel. A 15X8 will fit without issues and I ran the SVE drags. If youre going to stay in 370-400whp range, I would think about lower gears.
I stuck with the stock gears since I was pushing 600whp.

I put a 10" slick on a 7.5" '00 Mustang V6 wheel and went 11.4 at 120.64 on a 100 shot. Back mods were UMI poly lowers and Steeda poly upper. Stock 3.15s. I don't really think the suspension mods were necessary on my auto but, I had them lying around from my former stick car.