N/A coyote Aluminator Build
 

I got my Coyote a few months ago. However just afterwords the car suffered from a #8 failure. Having bought my car with JLT c/f CAI and tune already in it. Leaving me no way of finding out who tuned it. Furthermore, Ford rejected a warranty claim. So left to my own devices and with my car sitting for a few months now, I have finally ordered my new motor and some go fast goodies for her.

FRPM6007A50NA-00 5.0 Coyote Aluminator N/A
SPEC stage 2 Clutch
SPEC Aluminum Flywheel
Boss Intake Manifold
Steeda Boss Specfic CAI
Kooks Long Tube Headers
Kooks High Flow cats and x pipe
Heartthrob 3" over axle pipes
Kooks Axle Back
Steeda Tri-ax Shifter

Pro-Dyno in Fort Mill SC is doing my install and Tune. i'll be spinning it to 7300 or so. the stock heads and cams dont offer anything out of more revs than that from what i have seen. I expecting around 460-470 on the rollers of his DynoJet. (i believe its a 224 model judging by the small rollers)

ill keep up with the build over the next couple weeks. hoping i can get an aluminum drive shaft and 90mm throttle body before she hits the rollers. only time will tell.

Can't wait till its done. Keep us updated, gonna be nice.

Most people are putting down between 420-440 rwhp with similar mods. As far as I know that particular crate engine has the same compression as the stock coyote, but unsure of any other differences (aside from forged internals). GL with the build, always fun to see what motor swaps produce.

compression is the same but will be able to run more timing and spin it harder. besides the forged internals, it has boss rod bearings and valve springs. ive seen quite a few hit 450ish on a dynojet with similar mods and without a built motor. Also ford racing rates it at 412+ hp and 400+lbft. they rate the factory replacement at 412hp and 390lbft. i expexct over 460 at the wheels on the little 224 dynojet.

If you're building an engine from scratch, why not at least take the time to put different cams in it, even if mild cams?

My motor is a near turn key crate motor from FRPP. Also I don't want cams. I like having a smooth stock like idel. I do plan a a single turbo set up this time next year and then I may put the Boss Exhaust cams in it but only then. I don't plan on spinning my motor past 7500, ever. And the minimal gains from a mild cam just arnt worth 1500 bucks to me. I would rather spend that on weight savings and chassis mods.

so I take it your cylinder failure took out not only the block but both heads and the rotating assembly?

Just curious because when my GTO spun a rod bearing, I sure as heck didn't go buy a whole new LS2. I replaced two valves, and a piston, and a crankshaft and buttoned it back up.

no, ring land failure. yes YOU didn't. I however wanted a factory built motor, and a parts warranty. all together i would have spent 3500-4000 to rebuild my motor parts and labor and been left with nothing but the motor. now i will have around 8 grand spent out of pocket but i have arranged to sell my factory coyote for 2500 and i have a factory built and backed forged motor with a few extras. and every seal, bolt, and bearing is new and installed to factory specs. for me it was the better way to spend my money. plus the aluminators series of motors are a proven combination that has stood up to tons of abuse for years.

hey... can you get more defensive? I like it when you're angry.

:nice:

The aluminator is a great engine. And I also would go with a short block or long block for the failure. You can get by with just replacing the piston, but if you can afford it, i would replace it. Definitely a better idea. I would've definitely considered the cams now. If you pay someone to install them later, the labor is crazy if you have to pay someone to install them. But you can definitely install them yourself. It's a job, but doesn't seem much different than my older 4V. But still man, sounds like a kick arse engine you have. Can't wait to see the numbers

Not defensive. Just expressing that there is a difference between You and Me. We don't all have to do things the same way. If you want me to get angry we could always discuss the lack of Touring Car(DTM, Aussi V8 supercar) coverage in the US.

im waiting on the cams because they wont off much gain for the cost. id rather put that money towards a drive shaft and throttle body. im interested in the boss exhaust cam when i do the turbo set up to help get the heat out of the head and into the turbo. Even then i am only considering it. i wouldnt see any real benefit from it right now. at least not comparatively. Smiles per dollar are worth way more the HP per dollar. there are allot of small things i need to have buttoned up before i start shooting for real big power.

Oh I understand completely. That's a huge chunk of cash for cams. That's the only thing I miss about the OHV engines. But I've changed them a couple times on my 98 so it's not too bad. Just a lot of stuff to remove. I want to change the cams on my 2012...but I drive mine every day and still like my warranty. But it's still tempting. And with the VCT it will still idle nicely.
Waiting to see your dyno results

one of the guys over at the s197forum has comp cams stage 2 in his 2011. says it has no drivabaility issues. he car is a beast. forged motor with ported heads and comp cam. made 520 at the wheels on a clayton eddy current load bearing dyno. thats well over 600 at the crank. cams on the 5.0 are about as easy as the 3 valves from what i understand. can be done in just a few hours. i may be mistaken but i dont belive i am.

couple videos of his car. just for ****s and giggles.

It's similar to the 3 valve. But twice as many cams, chains, tensioners, guides. And as far as I believe there isn't a tool like for the 2 & 3 valve that allows you to change the cams w/o removing the front cover and all accessories. And I've seen that video of his car. It's nasty.