FRPP 624hp Kit too much for street?
 

Ok, so next year I am planning on adding a SC to my 2011 Mustang GT, but I need to figure out what kit would make sense. I don't plan on tracking the car, but I do race on the street from time to time and just like to nail it occasionally(only on days that end in y).

I know the main the differences between the 525hp and 624hp FRPP supercharger kits, but what I am really wondering is if you can really take advantage of the extra HP on the street? My tires are pretty sticky (295/35/18 Mich PS2), but would that be enough to really hookup the tires or would I just be wasting the extra HP to donating rubber to the pavement? The only suspension upgrade I have is eibach lowering springs.

All points of view welcome....

Get the 624hp kit and a sticky pair of DOT legal drag radials to use on sunny days. No such thing as too much power on the street, just too much throttle position for the conditions at hand.

I also have an 11 gt with 6 speed. Last year I installed a Vortech supercharger. A sweet fact about these centrifugal blowers is that they build boost in synch with RPM. This reduces wheel spin from a stop. If you nail it hard it will still break them lose. The kit is advertised at 605 HP, but that is with 93 octane gas and tune. Here in CA we only have 91. I dyno'd in at 585 HP crank/ 496 rear wheel and quite happy...

You can handle the 624 hp, it's that tq you gotta worry about, anyone know what those lots run for tq? Being a twin screw I know that it's alway there even from a dig

depends mainly what street you're on :D

I was looking at those as well, but was confused about the design looking like a turbo. One reason I really want a supercharger is the awesome whining noise they make. I had a M90 Roush SC on my 2006 GT and loved it.
The 525HP does include a 12/12 warranty, which is why I am going that route, but I wanted to know in the future if tuning/upgrading for higher boost would even be worth it.

Does the Vortech still sound like a supercharger? Also, I live in Michigan where the roads look like they have been mortared in some places.

See SEVERAL 750+ WHEEL cars around here on the street, obviously you can't floor it from a light and not blow the tire off but with a nice tire at 40-50 you should dead hook....

Here is my buddies from a few weeks ago(Im in the passenger seat) and we went down to mexico and had a friend add all the computer generated graphics in but this is something of how it would look.

As mentioned earlier, real hook-up requires serious rubber. Replacing your UCA / LCA's would be a step in the right direction.

I don't plan on buying anything stickier than a Mich Super Sport just because I can't/don't want to afford to spend 700-1k on tires every year. I know Michelin sport cups are very grippy, but have a really low tread life. One of the highest high performance summer rated tires for dry traction/overall that I know of is the Michelin Super Sport, which I will have as soon as they make the size I want. So knowing that, would that much HP be out of control with 295/35/18 super sports?

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Your thread states " really hook up the tires ". When I think about hook-up, I think about real rubber....not something that's good in wet or dry.
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I agree that DRs would be the way to get the most out of the HP. So what its looking like is without the DRs, the 624HP kit may not be the way to go. Nice Shelby btw.

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I would go with the 624hp. You will find out soon enough if the rubber you're using is up to the task. You can always change your mind, ( goals ) after the fact. In the mean time, use the traction control. ( you have that right ?? )
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+1 On top of that, if you're like most of us you never have enough hp:) the 525 kit would be a nice, noticable jump in power but it's really not that huge. You'd be surprised at how quickly you get used to that and then you'll be wanting more!

Naw.... really! My car is just a little bit less powerful (and a bit heavier) and its no problem to manage at all provided the tires are grooved deep enough to handle the rain. Otherwise not a problem.

And having run my tires a little more than I should (down past the wear bars in the rear) still isnt a problem until 80mph or so in the rain and that some old worn out BFG KDWs (285/40R18)

In the interim, I'm going to be running Nitto NT05R 305/45R18s - mainly since I cant see spending 300+ dollars per tire on the NT05R 285/40R18 when I can get the 305/45R18 for 260 per tire thats deisgned to work on a minimum of a 9.5 rim and the taller tire puts more rubber in the direction I want to go in at the drag strip.

Handling will suffer, but while I'm wearing these down I am going to upgrade to 20" Forgestar F14s and Michelin Pilot Super Sports as my regular street tire.

I recently put in a KB SC that advertises 600rwhp although it has not been dynoed yet. I was able to drive it a little before i left it to be dynoed and its **** fast but not uncontrollable. Granted I did not turn off advance trac or even put it on sport mode. hopefully when I get back from vacation ill have some numbers. Oh and I'm on Mich pilot sports 275/40/19. Plus the KB just looks **** sexy.

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The great this is that the newer stangs are so much more stable and manageable even with tons of power. I wouldn't be too worried about having too much power.

I just installed evolutions 700 hp Whipple 2.3 kit, I have 305/45/18 Mickey Thompson street ET 2 drag radials and 4.10 gears.. They work great.. U really gotta be on it to spin them.. They stick like crazy but they do not last long at all.. I have 255/45/18 nitto nt555 extreme's in front.. You need a big side wall in back.. The 305/35/18s spin way easier then the 305/45/18s.. They also fit perfect on stock suspension.. I have 18x10 rear wheels 18x9 front

Post up a pic of your setup. Want to see what the 18's with 45's look like. And how streetable are the ET's? The nittos are pretty streetable.

It's my every day driver.. They are very streetable.. Just don't expect the Mickeys to last as long as regular street tires

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