Which is better??
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: April 14, 2011
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Texas
Which is better??
Which kit is better and worth the money??
http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach...stem-1112.html
or
http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-h...ck-0512gt.html
http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach...stem-1112.html
or
http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-h...ck-0512gt.html
Mach 1 Member
Joined: September 20, 2011
Posts: 990
Likes: 0
From: KY/OH/MO
My suggestion is this one:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach...stem-1112.html
The sport-System lowers the car too much in my opinion.....at that height you will def need cc plates.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach...stem-1112.html
The sport-System lowers the car too much in my opinion.....at that height you will def need cc plates.
Last edited by Nocturnal'14; Feb 16, 2012 at 04:44 PM.
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: April 14, 2011
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Texas
My suggestion is this one:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach...stem-1112.html
The sport-System lowers the car too much in my opinion.....at that height you will def need cc plates.
http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach...stem-1112.html
The sport-System lowers the car too much in my opinion.....at that height you will def need cc plates.
so if i go with these, I shouldnt need CC plates?
Bullitt Member
Joined: April 24, 2010
Posts: 322
Likes: 2
From: Malvern, PA
I agree, the Pro-System-Plus is the way to go! The Pro Kit springs lower the car just enough where you can get away with a normal alignment without having to worry about caster/camber plates. It makes life alot easier. The kit will increase handling like crazy, reduce nose-dive when you're heavy on the brakes, and eliminate body roll.
Any time you go over 1.5" drop, that's when you have to start worrying about whether or not you'll need caster/camber plates to be within spec. This system drops about 1.5" in the rear and closer to 1" in the front, and makes for a really aggressive stance. However, you won't have to worry about the car being too low for speed bumps, etc.
As for the quality, Eibach is top-of-the-line. They even private label manufacture for dozens of other companies out there, including Ford Racing. Their endlinks are billet aluminum and use poly-urethane bushings and they ship with shocks & struts engineered specifically for a lowered S197 chassis. Basically, the car will still retain all of the ride comfort that you don't want to sacrifice when you're running errands, but you'll be able to take turns at 80mph that you never would have imagined at 60mph before!
Hit us up if you have any questions at all about this kit! We install Pro Kit springs on 90% of our own company Mustangs, and for Project Blackout (our 2012 GT Project Car) we installed this exact kit. It handles like a beast! Hope this helps!
Chris
P.S. Here's what it looks like installed, with 19" Charcoal AmericanMuscle AMR Wheels on our 2012 Manual GT:
Any time you go over 1.5" drop, that's when you have to start worrying about whether or not you'll need caster/camber plates to be within spec. This system drops about 1.5" in the rear and closer to 1" in the front, and makes for a really aggressive stance. However, you won't have to worry about the car being too low for speed bumps, etc.
As for the quality, Eibach is top-of-the-line. They even private label manufacture for dozens of other companies out there, including Ford Racing. Their endlinks are billet aluminum and use poly-urethane bushings and they ship with shocks & struts engineered specifically for a lowered S197 chassis. Basically, the car will still retain all of the ride comfort that you don't want to sacrifice when you're running errands, but you'll be able to take turns at 80mph that you never would have imagined at 60mph before!
Hit us up if you have any questions at all about this kit! We install Pro Kit springs on 90% of our own company Mustangs, and for Project Blackout (our 2012 GT Project Car) we installed this exact kit. It handles like a beast! Hope this helps!
Chris
P.S. Here's what it looks like installed, with 19" Charcoal AmericanMuscle AMR Wheels on our 2012 Manual GT:
Last edited by AMChrisRose; Feb 16, 2012 at 06:09 PM.
GT Member
Joined: September 10, 2009
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
This is better and costs less:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...199&ModelID=35
you don't need new sway bars, but if you want to replace them replace the rear swaybar...there's no advantage on the street to replacing your front sway bar with a stiffer 1 unless your road coursing your stang.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...199&ModelID=35
you don't need new sway bars, but if you want to replace them replace the rear swaybar...there's no advantage on the street to replacing your front sway bar with a stiffer 1 unless your road coursing your stang.
Last edited by kona stang10; Feb 16, 2012 at 08:29 PM.
Mach 1 Member
Joined: September 20, 2011
Posts: 990
Likes: 0
From: KY/OH/MO
This is better and costs less:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...199&ModelID=35
you don't need new sway bars, but if you want to replace them replace the rear swaybar...there's no advantage on the street to replacing your front sway bar with a stiffer 1 unless your road coursing your stang.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...199&ModelID=35
you don't need new sway bars, but if you want to replace them replace the rear swaybar...there's no advantage on the street to replacing your front sway bar with a stiffer 1 unless your road coursing your stang.
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: April 14, 2011
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Texas
Originally Posted by kona stang10
This is better and costs less:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...199&ModelID=35
you don't need new sway bars, but if you want to replace them replace the rear swaybar...there's no advantage on the street to replacing your front sway bar with a stiffer 1 unless your road coursing your stang.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...199&ModelID=35
you don't need new sway bars, but if you want to replace them replace the rear swaybar...there's no advantage on the street to replacing your front sway bar with a stiffer 1 unless your road coursing your stang.
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: April 14, 2011
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Texas
Originally Posted by AMChrisRose
I agree, the Pro-System-Plus is the way to go! The Pro Kit springs lower the car just enough where you can get away with a normal alignment without having to worry about caster/camber plates. It makes life alot easier. The kit will increase handling like crazy, reduce nose-dive when you're heavy on the brakes, and eliminate body roll.
Any time you go over 1.5" drop, that's when you have to start worrying about whether or not you'll need caster/camber plates to be within spec. This system drops about 1.5" in the rear and closer to 1" in the front, and makes for a really aggressive stance. However, you won't have to worry about the car being too low for speed bumps, etc.
As for the quality, Eibach is top-of-the-line. They even private label manufacture for dozens of other companies out there, including Ford Racing. Their endlinks are billet aluminum and use poly-urethane bushings and they ship with shocks & struts engineered specifically for a lowered S197 chassis. Basically, the car will still retain all of the ride comfort that you don't want to sacrifice when you're running errands, but you'll be able to take turns at 80mph that you never would have imagined at 60mph before!
Hit us up if you have any questions at all about this kit! We install Pro Kit springs on 90% of our own company Mustangs, and for Project Blackout (our 2012 GT Project Car) we installed this exact kit. It handles like a beast! Hope this helps!
Chris
P.S. Here's what it looks like installed, with 19" Charcoal AmericanMuscle AMR Wheels on our 2012 Manual GT:
Any time you go over 1.5" drop, that's when you have to start worrying about whether or not you'll need caster/camber plates to be within spec. This system drops about 1.5" in the rear and closer to 1" in the front, and makes for a really aggressive stance. However, you won't have to worry about the car being too low for speed bumps, etc.
As for the quality, Eibach is top-of-the-line. They even private label manufacture for dozens of other companies out there, including Ford Racing. Their endlinks are billet aluminum and use poly-urethane bushings and they ship with shocks & struts engineered specifically for a lowered S197 chassis. Basically, the car will still retain all of the ride comfort that you don't want to sacrifice when you're running errands, but you'll be able to take turns at 80mph that you never would have imagined at 60mph before!
Hit us up if you have any questions at all about this kit! We install Pro Kit springs on 90% of our own company Mustangs, and for Project Blackout (our 2012 GT Project Car) we installed this exact kit. It handles like a beast! Hope this helps!
Chris
P.S. Here's what it looks like installed, with 19" Charcoal AmericanMuscle AMR Wheels on our 2012 Manual GT:
Mach 1 Member
Joined: April 23, 2011
Posts: 1,636
Likes: 1
From: Pacific NW
I have Eibach Sportlines and the Anti Roll Kit mixed with stainless steel LCA's and panhard as well as a BMR UCA and Maximum Motorsports C&C plates. So far my s197 carves up the twisties but I'll be looking to get a set of Koni Adj Shocks and Struts. I have had some drawbacks because of the car coming to me with lower springs only on 20's! It's an awesome thing you're going with a kit though, take it from a guy who's been into the alignment shop 2 times in the past year, do it the right way the first time. 
Member
Joined: January 12, 2012
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Verona,VA
I recently put the Steeda sport springs on mine (about 1" drop in front) and camber ended up at about -1.2 degrees. Not enough camber that I'm worried about it, as long as the toe is set right.
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: April 14, 2011
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Texas
Originally Posted by Zackery C
i just ordered the Eibach Pro System.. cant wait to install them to see what they look like on my ride
Thread Starter
Bullitt Member
Joined: April 14, 2011
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: Southeast Texas
Originally Posted by kona stang10
This is better and costs less:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...199&ModelID=35
you don't need new sway bars, but if you want to replace them replace the rear swaybar...there's no advantage on the street to replacing your front sway bar with a stiffer 1 unless your road coursing your stang.
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...199&ModelID=35
you don't need new sway bars, but if you want to replace them replace the rear swaybar...there's no advantage on the street to replacing your front sway bar with a stiffer 1 unless your road coursing your stang.
