Shelby10'

Check out this read. Our blocks are stronger than i thought

http://s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2466

Shelby10'

Any suggestion to what type of 12v switch I should use?? I can get the hurst shift ball with switch, a covered toggle switch, or connect it to my cruise control and put an on off switch in the center console. Here are some examples










AND HERE IS THE PROCEDURE TO HOOK IT INTO YOUR CRUISE CONTROL

The switch itself is the easy part - there is only one wire to deal with on the cruise control.
1. Get an SPDT switch something like this:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
2. Find the tan with orange stripe wire on the steering column connector - no pic at the moment
3. cut that wire leaving enough length to splice on both sides...
4. connect the side going up to the steering wheel to the center pin on the switch (double check this - most of them connect the center pin to the "common" wire and then the outer 2 pins are the ones that you choose between when you toggle the switch).
5. connect one of the outer pins to the other side of the tan/orange wire doing down the steering column towards the firewall
6. connect the remaining pin to the the wire that will drive the "ground" side of your line-locks.
7. wire up 12V to the other side of your line-locks... Ideally through a fuse, but it can be an "always on" 12V since it won't draw current unless the "ground" is in place via the "off" switch of the cruise control and your toggle. I just pulled 12V off the "bus" at the back of the fuse box under the hood and put in an in-line fuse.
8. mount your switch (after you make sure it works).

Now, you should be able to flop the switch to one side and with the cruise control fire the line-locks and the other side use the cruise control normally. The "off" switch when pressed provides a "ground" signal and otherwise "floats".

I added a relay as well to ensure that the line locks got all the current they could ask for. I have the "off" of the cruise control connected to the ground "enable" of the relay. So, instead of grounding the line-locks, it grounds the relay which when powered drives the line-lock with a fused version of the battery...

Kevin and Josh report no issues with NOT having this relay in various threads, but I don't like that much current on such small wires myself... The cruise control wiring is intended for low current "logical" function rather than power distribution.

DavidM

I'm going to use these when I get to that point.

http://www.speedofsoundllc.com/05%2B...%20panels.html

Shelby10'

Me too david... too expensive though... Ya know we could make our own. All of those 12v switches are on ebay and the web for cheap! All we would need is the aluminum plate.

Shelby10'

I CURRENTLY HAVE THIS SWITCH Radio shack has them for like $4.... its pretty cool, BUT I dont want to have to drill into my console next to the shifter ya know?

DavidM

I wonder where one could aquire a couple chunks of useable aluminum. I still would like to finish the custom plate for the FRPP strut tower brace that I have.

Shelby10'

So David... Where would you put the button? If I did the hurst with the button I would have to install another toggle in the center console storage area to activate the shifter **** button. I wouldnt want to have the shifter active for safety reasons.

Does the covered safety toggle switch next to the shifter look stupid??

Or would you wire into the cruise control? I would again like the hurst have a switch to activate the line lock on the cruise and to be able to turn it off to use cruise... ugh decisions decisions

Shelby10'

we could use sheet metal for the console?? what do ya think?

DavidM

Diamond plate would look cool. If we could cut it. I think for the line lock you want a momentary switch. Or one that is only activated when you hold the button/switch . You want to think about what your hands are doing during the burn out process. Left hand generally on the wheel and right hand close to the shifter. THe optimal location would be close to your right hand or shifter location.

2006GT

What about using a switch ( don't know what they're called) that only activates when pushed. You know... . it won't stay on. Kinda like your "Start" button.

That would take care of the safety issue...

Shelby10'

Im open to suggestions

Shelby10'

im thinking about just wiring it into my cruise control and mounting the switch to activate the line lock in the center console on the E brake cover.

DavidM

Isn't there an extra slot on the steering wheel for another cruise type switch? I wonder if you could get one from ford and custom wire it that way?

Shelby10'

Where would you guys look for automotive wire to hook this switch up?

AndrewM

i think wiring into the steering wheel would look good, and be very sneeky. i likie!

2006GT

In the automotive section at Reasors??

Just go to Autozone, or somethin like that.

AndrewM

go here... the other site that i posted sucks.... lol this place has EVERTHING from wiress to toggle switches

http://www.wiringproducts.com/

DavidM

Radio Shack, has lots of wire. If you want real stuff go to a salvage yard and gut an old car.

Shelby10'

Here is some of the statements from the line lock install... hmm I guess I will have to find this stuff at radio shack...

There really is no reason to use a relay as the current draw is very low for the line lock solenoids. We use an add-a-fuse, run the 12v+ to one side of the switch. The other side of the switch is run to both solenoids and the solenoid grounds are grounded to the chassis at the solenoids.

Originally Posted by Kevin @ PMP
There really is no reason to use a relay as the current draw is very low for the linelock solenoids. We use an add-a-fuse, run the 12v+ to one side of the switch. The other side of the switch is run to both solenoids and the solenoid grounds are grounded to the chassis at the solenoids.

Ditto the above. Unless you have already tapped into the fuse box in the pass side kick panel, there are three open circuits there (2 switched, 1 continuous) where you can put the Add-a-fuse. Depending on which one you use you may have to notch the fuse panel cover to allow it to fit, but otherwise the wiring is very straightforward

Pin #30 goes to a 15 amp fuse the other end of the fuse goes to the battery or constant 12V source.
Pin #87 goes to the solenoids with a 15A in-line fuse.
Pin #86 goes to switched 12V power.
Pin #85 goes to one prong of the safety switch (either "Power" or "Acc"). The other prong (either "Power" or "Acc") goes to ground. The actual "Ground" prong is not used.

cobra4548

That is what I have for my new setup. My three switches say "Line Lock" "H2O Pump" and "Fan"....I went with the brushed aluminum