I tried to search the forums for this but I couldn't find anything. I have the annoying sheetmetal noise in my trunk. I tried to fix it and it went away for 2 or 3 days now its back. I was just wondering if anyone could PLEASE explain this tsb i just want to know if this pertains to my problem. Thanks for the help..

 

Maybe its the Trunk Monkey and he needs to get out ? the spare wheel is not loose or anything ? or just lay underneath and gaze up a while and just look around.

 

Keep tabs on this sticky. It lists all the TSBs (or it should have them all).

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index.php?showtopic=16258

 

I was going to send him there too, but all that link has for the TSB in question is the title, no explination of the actual TSB or the work performed. I have not found it anywhere yet...

 

I had a sheetmetal noise in the back right side, It could be heard just while I was driving my V6. (not iddling)
I found the source and the correction, hopefully this will help:

8 days ago, I noticed that the noise could be reproduced by turning my shaker Treble down, increasing the bass to the max and increasing the volume. Once the noise was following the rhythm of the distorted music, I opened the trunk and started to make pressure in the sheetmetals to find the noise source.

When I made pressure to a large screw fastening the shelf in the right side (it can be seen from outside the trunk below the shelf), the noise was gone. I just took a pair of pliers and applied torque to the screw, (I applied the torque on the low portion without thread to avoid a damage in the screw).

8 days and 400 miles without any noise so far.

Hope it helps.

Regards.

 

Thanks for the help but thats not it. The sound sounds like its coming from behind the subs and the amp but I can't figure out where and everytime I take it to the dealer for this they just tell me to turn the music up. And the noise is constant as I am driving. Its so annoying.

 

So when you are fed up and you wack the dealer on the head with a Mallot and his reply is it hurts tell him to where a het the Jerk ! some people.

 

So when you are fed up and you wack the dealer on the head with a Mallot and his reply is it hurts tell him to where a het the Jerk ! some people.
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I think thats what I am going to have to do>>>>> J/k

 

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/index....opic=21669&hl=

This may help!

kc

 

Thanks for the link but that isn't it either. I took that plastic piece off and drove the car today and I still had the rattle. Its something behind the subs and every bump it rattles. I bought 2 cans off the spray dynamat and sprayed everything and the noise went away for about 2-3 days. Then it came back.

 

Charles if you have a very early build for your mustang there was a run of them that had seams that were not bonded properly in the rear trunk area and this would cause a rattle as well .From what I recall the macheanery couldn't keep with the ramp up where some sections were bonded togeather .There is a fix for this and your dealer can perform this work .Do a search and see what you can come up with ,maybe some of the other members could chime in and tell you more about this.

 

I have a build date of 09/04

 

Here is the TSB-It is just a general repair procedure.


TSB
04-26-16 WELD BONDING PROCEDURE

Publication Date: December 22, 2004

FORD: 2005 Crown Victoria, Five Hundred, Focus, Ford GT, Freestyle, Mustang, Taurus, Thunderbird, E-Series, Escape, Expedition, Explorer Sport Trac, Explorer, F-150, F-Super Duty, Freestar, Ranger
LINCOLN: 2005 LS, Town Car, Aviator, Navigator
MERCURY: 2005 Montego, Sable, Monterey, Mountaineer


ISSUE:
The following Weld Bonding Procedure should be used on all Ford, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles, when replacement of any OEM weld bonded component (structural and non-structural) becomes necessary, unless specifically directed otherwise by a Ford Technical Publication specific to a particular vehicle.

Technicians performing repairs must use approved Squeeze-Type Resistance Spot Welding machines (STRSW machines). MIG-welding should only be performed when areas to be welded cannot be accessed using squeeze-type resistance spot welding machinery. Refer to TSB 04-26-17 for MIG-Weld Bonding information.

ACTION:
Inspect collision damaged sheet metal and repair using the following Service Procedure.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

WHAT IS WELD BONDING

Weld bonding is a method used for joining metals. It involves the use of STRSW machines in combination with a structural adhesive.

MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT

Motorcraft Metal Bonding Adhesive (TA-1 50 ml) or (TA-1-B 225 ml) is the only adhesive approved by Ford Motor Company for weld bonding.

The following resistance welders are currently the only welding equipment approved by Ford Motor Company for weld bonding:

Pro-Spot PR 10 and PR2000
Saitek SK-5 and SK-5W
Elektron M-100
Techna 3650
Compuspot 700
No other welder units have been approved based on testing.

NOTE: BECAUSE DOOR SHELLS ARE MANUFACTURED WITH ADHESIVES ONLY, WELD BONDING DOOR SKINS IS NOT RECOMMENDED. ONLY MOTORCRAFT METAL BONDING ADHESIVE (TA-1 50 ML) OR (TA-1-B 225 ML) SHOULD BE USED.



WELD BONDING PROCEDURE

Straighten the vehicle on a frame machine if appropriate.
Once the damaged vehicle has been straightened dimensionally, remove the damaged panels with an air saw or air chisel. Remove only the large portions, making sure not to cut into the mating flanges or adjacent parts.
Support the vehicle evenly at normal suspension points.
Using a "Spottel" or "Blair" spot-weld cutter, drill out the spot welds and remove the remaining weld flanges of the panel to be replaced.
Prepare any damaged flanges on the vehicle. Straighten flanges using a hammer and a dolly.
Grind the mating surface of the original flanges (not greater than 1" (25 mm)), where Motorcraft Metal Bonding Adhesive will be applied. If the metal has a pewter look all of the galvanizing has not been removed, the metal should be shiny in appearance. Be careful not to damage the corners or thin the metal. The e-coat should also be removed on the opposite side of the flange only where the spot welds will be placed.
Pre-bevel any edges to less than 10 degrees on the new panel where a finished section joint is needed.
Dry-fit and clamp all service part(s) to ensure proper alignment. Then remove the service part(s).
NOTE: CLAMPS SHOULD HAVE TAPE OVER THE ENDS FOR INSULATION WHEN WELDING IS PERFORMED.



Set-Up the Welder. Be sure to review all pertinent manufacturer information about the use of the squeeze type resistance spot welder before beginning.
Prepare adhesive. Dispense a small amount of Motorcraft Metal Bonding Adhesive from the cartridge to ensure an even flow of both components. Attach the mixing tip and dispense a mixer's length of adhesive.
NOTE: YOU WILL HAVE APPROXIMATELY 40-50 MINUTES OF WORKING TIME AT 70° F (21° C) TO APPLY THE ADHESIVE AND ASSEMBLE THE SERVICE PARTS. FOR EVERY 20° F ABOVE 70° F, CUT THE WORKING TIME IN HALF. FOR EVERY 20° F BELOW 70° F, DOUBLE THE WORKING AND CURE TIME.



Test Sample: Using two pieces of scrap metal, build a test sample. Prepare the metal and adhesive as described. Set-up the welder per the manufacturer's recommended settings for weld bonding, apply a 1/4" to 3/8" bead of adhesive and weld the sample. Place the welded sample in vice and perform destructive weld tests by peeling the scrap metal apart using large channel lock pliers. Measure the weld nugget to determine that the nugget meets the Ford weld nugget requirements. See Weld Nugget chart at the end of this TSB. Once the proper nugget is achieved, the service part can be weld bonded.
Apply adhesive to service part(s) and mating surfaces. Apply a 1/4" to 3/8" bead of adhesive to the bare metal mating surfaces.
Properly position the service part(s) on the vehicle. Once positioned, do not pull the part away from the vehicle. If repositioning is necessary, slide the service part(s). This maintains proper contact between the components and adhesive.
Clamp evenly and tightly. The glass beads in the adhesive will prevent over-clamping the part.
NOTE: WELDING CAN BE PERFORMED ANYTIME WHILE THE ADHESIVE CURES, OR AFTER THE ADHESIVE IS FULLY CURED. WELDER SETTINGS WILL VARY WHEN WELDING THROUGH WET ADHESIVE -VS- WELDING THROUGH CURED ADHESIVE. USE THE WELDER MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDED SETTINGS FOR WELDING THROUGH CURED ADHESIVE. IT IS BEST TO PLACE A SHUNT WELD (IN AN AREA WITH NO ADHESIVE) AS THE FIRST WELD TO INSURE CONDUCTIVITY, PARTICULARLY WHEN WELDING THROUGH CURED ADHESIVE.



NOTE: IF WELDING WILL NOT BE PERFORMED IMMEDIATELY, ALLOW 1-1/2 TO 2 HOURS OF ADHESIVE CURE TIME AT 70° F (21° C) BEFORE REMOVING CLAMPS. CLAMPS MAY BE REMOVED IMMEDIATELY AFTER THE PANEL IS WELDED.



Where possible, wipe excess adhesive from the panel before it cures.
When welding, maintain the original spot-weld spacing. Welds should be placed as close as possible to the original spot weld location. Do not place a new spot weld directly over an original weld location.
Finish any cosmetic section seams with fiber-filled body filler and complete the repair with conventional body filler. Rough sand the filler, after the adhesive cures, block-sand the area.
Prime any bare metal areas with Motorcraft Low Temperature Anti-corrosion Coating (PM-12-A). Apply 2-3 coats letting it flash between coats.
Mix and apply primer surfacer per manufacturer's label instructions.
Mix and apply basecoat material per manufacturer's label instructions.
Mix and apply clearcoat per manufacturer's label instructions. Bake at 140° F (60° C) metal temperature.
Use Motorcraft Urethane Seam Sealer (TA-2) wherever a cosmetic seam sealer is required.

WELD NUGGET CHART
Test Thickness of Metal (in millimeters) Nugget Size (mm)
0.7 + 0.7 4.30
0.7 + 0.7 + 0.7 4.30
0.9 + 0.9 4.70
0.9 + 0.9 + 0.9 4.70
1.0 + 1.0 5.20
1.0 + 1.0 + 1.0 5.20
2.0 + 2.0 7.10
2.0 + 2.0 + 2.0 7.10
3.0 + 3.0 8.70
3.0 + 3.0 + 3.0 8.70
3.0 + 0.7 4.30
0.7 + 3.0 + 1.0 5.20
2.0 + 2.0 + 0.7 4.30
0.9 + 0.9 + 2.0 4.70
2.0 + 0.9 + 1.0 5.20
1.0 + 3.0 + 1.0 5.20
3.0 + 1.0 + 2.0 7.10
0.9 + 0.7 + 0.9 4.30




PART NUMBER PART NAME
TA-1 Motorcraft Metal Bonding Adhesive (50 ml)
TA-1-B Motorcraft Metal Bonding Adhesive (225 ml)
PM-12-A Motorcraft Low Temperature Anti-corrosion Coating
TA-2 Motorcraft Urethane Seam Sealer


OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES:
04-26-17

WARRANTY STATUS:
Information Only


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.

 

Ok this is the best I could do and it took me over an hour to find this ,it was an early quality hold issue your dealer/rep might remember this ...here ya go


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