Problem: button illumination won't work
#1
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Problem: button illumination won't work
Yhe other day I noticed when I turned my headlights on in the evening that it was darker in the car. The lights that illuminate the buttons were out. All these won't illuminate:
steering wheel buttons
climate control buttons and *****
info centre buttons
track control and hazard buttons
auto shifter selector indicator
overhead convertible up down switch
headlight ****
These still illuminate:
window switches
door lock switches
guages (dimmer works here)
radio (dimmer works here)
There is no fuse for illumination, and all fuses look good anyways. Looking at the wiring diagrams, it looks like there is something wrong with the smart junction box itself. If the headlight switch was to blame, then the guages and the radio would not work either I figure.
Ideas? I need help.
steering wheel buttons
climate control buttons and *****
info centre buttons
track control and hazard buttons
auto shifter selector indicator
overhead convertible up down switch
headlight ****
These still illuminate:
window switches
door lock switches
guages (dimmer works here)
radio (dimmer works here)
There is no fuse for illumination, and all fuses look good anyways. Looking at the wiring diagrams, it looks like there is something wrong with the smart junction box itself. If the headlight switch was to blame, then the guages and the radio would not work either I figure.
Ideas? I need help.
#5
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Soo ... no one has any input into this?
Looks like I have to get a smart Junction Box for a convertible 05 or 06. Engine doesn't matter.
Located a wrecked 06 convertible a little ways from me. I'll be going out sometime this week to try putting it in my car to see if the problem is fixed. If that doesn't work, then I'll try the switch itself, but it is just not possible for it to be the switch, as other buttons do illuminate, and the ones I listed are the only ones to be routed through the junction box.
Looks like I have to get a smart Junction Box for a convertible 05 or 06. Engine doesn't matter.
Located a wrecked 06 convertible a little ways from me. I'll be going out sometime this week to try putting it in my car to see if the problem is fixed. If that doesn't work, then I'll try the switch itself, but it is just not possible for it to be the switch, as other buttons do illuminate, and the ones I listed are the only ones to be routed through the junction box.
#6
Shelby GT350 Member
The same exact thing happened to me on my '08. I accidentally blew a fuse installing aftermarket ambient LED lighting which I tied into the PRND321 indicator illumination. That knocked out the operation of all the same lights you have out. I had to search for the correct fuse and replace it.
With as many fuses as there are in the fuse panel located at the smart junction box, it's easy to miss one thinking you checked them all. You also have to check for fuses that have multiple things on a circuit. Circuit descriptions in the owners manual can also be deceiving.
Just the other day while working on my '10, I popped a fuse while installing an LED strip for additional trunk lighting which also rendered the map lights inoperable. The fuse was not the one listed as courtesy lamps, but rather the one for timed delay and battery saver.
Another note... The door and window switch illumination is not controlled by the headlamp switch or the dimmer control. They go on and off with the ignition key. Anytime the vehicle is in operation they stay on all the time (even in daylight) at a fixed brightness level regulated by resistors inside the switches.
I would certainly check the fuses again. It's going to be on a 5-10 amp circuit as these are all low current LED lights.
With as many fuses as there are in the fuse panel located at the smart junction box, it's easy to miss one thinking you checked them all. You also have to check for fuses that have multiple things on a circuit. Circuit descriptions in the owners manual can also be deceiving.
Just the other day while working on my '10, I popped a fuse while installing an LED strip for additional trunk lighting which also rendered the map lights inoperable. The fuse was not the one listed as courtesy lamps, but rather the one for timed delay and battery saver.
Another note... The door and window switch illumination is not controlled by the headlamp switch or the dimmer control. They go on and off with the ignition key. Anytime the vehicle is in operation they stay on all the time (even in daylight) at a fixed brightness level regulated by resistors inside the switches.
I would certainly check the fuses again. It's going to be on a 5-10 amp circuit as these are all low current LED lights.
Last edited by watchdevil; 7/9/12 at 01:13 AM.
#7
Shelby GT350 Member
Also worth noting, if the headlamp switch is ever unplugged from the wiring harness, it will cause all the lamps to stay on until the switch is plugged back in again.
#9
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
OK, all the fuses check out as before.
But driving home tonight, my life just got more complicated. The lights would go on and off intermitently - but mostly just staying off.
Could still be the smart junction box, but I also thought the ground might be an issue. Problem is the steering wheel, info center buttons, convertible top button, light switch and HVAC all have separate grounds.
I still need help here!
But driving home tonight, my life just got more complicated. The lights would go on and off intermitently - but mostly just staying off.
Could still be the smart junction box, but I also thought the ground might be an issue. Problem is the steering wheel, info center buttons, convertible top button, light switch and HVAC all have separate grounds.
I still need help here!
#10
Shelby GT350 Member
I went out to my car just now and pulled this #10 fuse with the headlight switch on. I was able to verify again that the lights go OFF for the headlamp switch, info/setup/reset switch, tcs/hazard/trunk switch, steering wheel switches and PRND321 illumination. The gauges, climate controls and audio system backlighting stayed illuminated. On pre-2010 models the climate control panel will go off with the fuse pulled.
The owners manual also shows that the gauge illumination and dash center panel (audio/hvac) is on separate circuits than the switch illumination.
I discovered also that if you pull the fuse and replace it, you will have to turn the headlamp switch off then back on to reactivate the switch illumination.
#11
Shelby GT350 Member
OK, all the fuses check out as before.
But driving home tonight, my life just got more complicated. The lights would go on and off intermitently - but mostly just staying off.
Could still be the smart junction box, but I also thought the ground might be an issue. Problem is the steering wheel, info center buttons, convertible top button, light switch and HVAC all have separate grounds.
I still need help here!
But driving home tonight, my life just got more complicated. The lights would go on and off intermitently - but mostly just staying off.
Could still be the smart junction box, but I also thought the ground might be an issue. Problem is the steering wheel, info center buttons, convertible top button, light switch and HVAC all have separate grounds.
I still need help here!
Read this again which I just posted:
"I discovered also that if you pull the fuse and replace it, you will have to turn the headlamp switch off then back on to reactivate the switch illumination."
Since this happens, it must be controlled by a relay circuit in the smart junction box. Since you are saying that it was working intermittently tonight, then the smart junction box is the likely culprit. I was just hoping for you that it was going to be a simpler fix that was overlooked. However, I was at least able to figure out that this is isolated to a single circuit which has nothing to do with any other circuits.
Last edited by watchdevil; 7/10/12 at 12:42 AM.
#12
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Yeah, I was hoping it was an easy fix too.
Replacing the SJB is easy too, or course, but costly.
The help was very much appreciated Watchdevil.
Replacing the SJB is easy too, or course, but costly.
The help was very much appreciated Watchdevil.
#14
Shelby GT350 Member
#15
I have a problem with the exact same lights except my problem is that these lights stay on even when the vehicle is turned off, locked, doors closed and everything. This happened at the same time that my battery went out. I thought a new battery would fix it but it did not. I know absolutely nothing about cars but I am learning.
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. I am not exactly in a position right now to pay someone to troubleshoot the problem. Thanks in advance!
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. I am not exactly in a position right now to pay someone to troubleshoot the problem. Thanks in advance!
#16
NOT CURRENTLY ACTIVE ON THIS SITE! DO NOT USE PM FEATURE!
Join Date: October 25, 2010
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 5,279
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
14 Posts
I have a problem with the exact same lights except my problem is that these lights stay on even when the vehicle is turned off, locked, doors closed and everything. This happened at the same time that my battery went out. I thought a new battery would fix it but it did not. I know absolutely nothing about cars but I am learning.
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. I am not exactly in a position right now to pay someone to troubleshoot the problem. Thanks in advance!
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. I am not exactly in a position right now to pay someone to troubleshoot the problem. Thanks in advance!
Welcome to the forum! My name is Deysha with Ford Service. You should first check the “Lights” section of your owner's manual:
PANEL DIMMER CONTROL
Use to adjust the brightness of the
instrument panel and all applicable
switches in the vehicle during
headlamp and parklamp operation.
Move the control to the full upright
position, past detent, to turn on the
interior lamps.
If not, you should have your dealer look at it. They’re in the best position to advise of any work needed, coverages, etc. Also, remember repairs done at a Ford Dealer come with a 24 months/unlimited miles warranty. I hope this helps.
Deysha
#18
Shelby GT350 Member
Join Date: September 11, 2006
Location: Cumming, GA
Posts: 2,349
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
3 Posts
Deysha you do realize most people avoid the dealership like the plague once warranty coverage has expired? You know how much they would have charged him to find a bad ground wire?
Hi cattman77,
Welcome to the forum! My name is Deysha with Ford Service. You should first check the “Lights” section of your owner's manual:
PANEL DIMMER CONTROL
Use to adjust the brightness of the
instrument panel and all applicable
switches in the vehicle during
headlamp and parklamp operation.
Move the control to the full upright
position, past detent, to turn on the
interior lamps.
If not, you should have your dealer look at it. They’re in the best position to advise of any work needed, coverages, etc. Also, remember repairs done at a Ford Dealer come with a 24 months/unlimited miles warranty. I hope this helps.
Deysha
Welcome to the forum! My name is Deysha with Ford Service. You should first check the “Lights” section of your owner's manual:
PANEL DIMMER CONTROL
Use to adjust the brightness of the
instrument panel and all applicable
switches in the vehicle during
headlamp and parklamp operation.
Move the control to the full upright
position, past detent, to turn on the
interior lamps.
If not, you should have your dealer look at it. They’re in the best position to advise of any work needed, coverages, etc. Also, remember repairs done at a Ford Dealer come with a 24 months/unlimited miles warranty. I hope this helps.
Deysha
#19
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Been a while since I have seen this thread.
I had to go through all the wiring I had done. I figured that the problem had to have been wiring that I had done, and I was right. There were 2 wires that were not quite wrapped properly that were touching each other. I did not have a voltmeter to locate the problem, though. I checked everything visually. My problem was the wires that I used to tap into power for my ambient lighting.
I had to go through all the wiring I had done. I figured that the problem had to have been wiring that I had done, and I was right. There were 2 wires that were not quite wrapped properly that were touching each other. I did not have a voltmeter to locate the problem, though. I checked everything visually. My problem was the wires that I used to tap into power for my ambient lighting.
#20
NOT CURRENTLY ACTIVE ON THIS SITE! DO NOT USE PM FEATURE!
Join Date: October 25, 2010
Location: Dearborn, MI
Posts: 5,279
Likes: 0
Received 16 Likes
on
14 Posts
Been a while since I have seen this thread.
I had to go through all the wiring I had done. I figured that the problem had to have been wiring that I had done, and I was right. There were 2 wires that were not quite wrapped properly that were touching each other. I did not have a voltmeter to locate the problem, though. I checked everything visually. My problem was the wires that I used to tap into power for my ambient lighting.
I had to go through all the wiring I had done. I figured that the problem had to have been wiring that I had done, and I was right. There were 2 wires that were not quite wrapped properly that were touching each other. I did not have a voltmeter to locate the problem, though. I checked everything visually. My problem was the wires that I used to tap into power for my ambient lighting.
Deysha