So where to begin. My son bought his first car with his own money, a 2005 Mustang convertible with 110,000 miles on it. I went with him and took it for a test drive and had seen no issues. Ran great, oil was clean, ran my OBD checker with PIDS with no issues. Car was clean and didnt see any issues. Flash forward about 2 months of driving perfect. Son texts me says car overheated and he pulled over and had it towed home(he has a history of blowing head gaskets on my cars), so he didnt want to risk anything further. Gets the car home and its blowing white smoke and blowing some coolant out of one of spark plugs. Wierd, didnt have any blowby before? Asked my son and he said he took all the spark plugs out while i was at work and checked them and put them back in.

So when I pull them out a couple had been bent. So we proceeded to change the head gaskets. All went smooth,, got both heads off saw that they had been cross threaded and put brand new inserts in them all and then changed gasket. We tried to get around removing the timing chain from the crank so I marked the crank and they camshafts to the chain and zip tied them together where they couldn't move. replaced the heads and torqued everything down. Made all the lines line back up and hooked up all the wiring, or so I thought. Tried to crank it and all we had was a click at the starter. We removed the starter and I tested it on the bench and it worked fine. Put starter back in and before bolting it we turned over and the starter hit the frame and sparked. Whoops. Hooked it back up and it still clicked. Racked my brain and we figured out that we did not install the grounds on the engine. We reinstalled grounds on the block and the starter kicked over fine. Now we are at the point where we have crank but no spark. When we put the key in the ignition we have the CEL on. The PATS system does not flash. When we crank over we have 0 RPM registering on PID. We also have no pulse at injectors or at crank sensor or cam sensor. We have 12V to the Coil but nothing coming out of the coil. We replaced the crank sensor and the PCM so far with a programmed one to the VIN. Still same issue. Will buy a camshaft sensor today to try but I have a feeling this isnt it.
We have checked some Fuses but maybe not the correct one? The CEL stays on when we crank it over so something isnt working correctly. I am at my wits end trying to figure this out. Is there any other suggestions before i lose all my hair? I have searched and searched for a few weeks online and can not quit find what I am seeing.

I have checked all PCM fuses and relays and even diode

2005 Mustang Convertible 4.0L V6

 

Welcome!

See The No Start Pdf in This Thread! May Help1

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...e-info-550470/

KC

 

Yes, I was going through that, but when it says to go to step jd2 i can’t find that anywhere in your attachments. Am i looking in wrong spot?

 

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...0/#post7086543

 

well went through those steps and it said to replace pcm, i just had the pcm replaced and programmed. Could all this be from my timing off when i put it back together?

 

The 4.0L Timing Setup is a Daunting Task! Here is a Lot of Info on How it All Works!

https://themustangsource.com/forums/...-noise-551068/

KC

 

At What Point Was Pcm Replaced and Was Vehicle Running With New PCM?? I Assume All Pats Keys Were Reprogrammed at Same Time??

Kc

 

I just replaced the PCM Friday, i had it programmed to the vin along with a key that came with it. Same symptoms with new that we had with old. It has never ran with new PCM.

 

Well took everything off to check timing and noticed crank sensor wire smashed in between bracket and block. Removed it tapped it and now we have a start! Put everything back together and started up just fine, but have a leak somewhere in fuel system.

The fuel rail psi is running at 75 psi. Is this normal and if not what could cause that? I think the normal psi is around 40.

 

General Specifications

Item Specification Fuel tank capacity 60.56 liters (16 gallons)

Key on, engine off fuel pressure 240-485 kPa (35-70 psi)

Engine running fuel pressure (idle) 152-255 kPa (27-37 psi)


Be Advised PID Pressure Value May Indicate 7 to 10 Lbs Higher Than Mechanical Gauge.

Also See Pdf!

Lmk If You Need Further Info and Congratulations For Finding The GREMLIN!

KC

 

Your help is much appreciated! Thank you for all you do.