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Old 2/10/19, 03:20 AM
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Need help from Spain

Hi all,

I’m going to tell you a short story since I’m really worried about my Stang.

Recently, I bought a 05’GT, a dream car since here in Spain it is considered a luxury car. I bought it like 6 months ago and everything was fine, but now...Here is a short description:

- Bought the car, 05’GT, about 60k miles on it. Throttle body and one spark recently changed. Drives fine
-About 1k miles driven, all good
-Went to a confidence dealer (not Ford, the y dont know about the car in Spain) for common maintenance: general check, oil and filters replaced. All looked fine.
-CEL light on: PO340, you know, TPS bad. I decide to replace both sensors and solenoids.
-CEL still on, I notice a light jerking below 2k rpm and a light increase in fuel consumption.
-I found about bad alternator causing PO340 (thanks to you), so I replaced it.
-CEL didn’t come in again but the jerking persists.
-24 hours after replacing the alternator, when parking at home, suddendly the engine starts knocking really bad and the CEL starts blinking. The engine shakes and sound like a diesel!!!! I just park the car and went home, feel so bad.
-Next morning I starts the engine and it shake and sound but much less than previous. At cold idle the engine seems to die (but dont), and a hard gas smell appears.

So, reading in the internet:
-Hard knocking seems to be bad cam phasers or even worst (valve train or so)
-cold start looks like coil/spark plug. Probably coils are still factory, dont know about sparks but one.

What do you think guys it could be? I’m really worried because here in Spain is neither easy nor cheap to fix worst cases.

Thank you all in advance for your help and sorry for my english, not very good, hope you understand.

wishes,
Jorge
Old 2/15/19, 05:26 PM
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It seems strange the throttle body was replaced and yet you just replaced a TPS sensor. I believe new throttle bodies come with TPS and throttle actuator.

You should get yourself a programmer/code reader. Then at least you will be able to access the stored codes and look them up online and find out what they mean.

So your plugs are all original except for one. As you most likely know your car has the 2 piece spark plugs. Your car is old enough that it is a good idea to change out all your plugs. Removing the plugs can be a problem and the longer you wait, the more difficult the plugs will be to remove.

Do you have tools? Are you able to do any work yourself? If you don't have tools and must take your car into the shop,***** Make sure the shop knows the procedure to change the 2 piece plugs. I would suggest replacing all 8 plugs with a 1 piece design
Old 2/16/19, 02:15 AM
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Thx for your reply! I wrote TPS but I mean camshaft position sensor. The T body was replaced and all looked fine that way.

I went to a shop and had the codes read.....and it was the cam phaser. Also checked the plugs and none are the originals, but have been replaced on different times and diferent types, so with the phasers I ordered new plugs, one piece.

In one month I have replaced 2 CPS, alternator, phasers and plugs (still waiting for those parta). I hope everything goes well when all this is fixed...

My only concern now is if after phasers replaced the light jerking below 2000rpm will disappear or if it is a symptom of anything else....

Thx all!
Old 2/16/19, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by darcman
It seems strange the throttle body was replaced and yet you just replaced a TPS sensor. I believe new throttle bodies come with TPS and throttle actuator.

You should get yourself a programmer/code reader. Then at least you will be able to access the stored codes and look them up online and find out what they mean.

So your plugs are all original except for one. As you most likely know your car has the 2 piece spark plugs. Your car is old enough that it is a good idea to change out all your plugs. Removing the plugs can be a problem and the longer you wait, the more difficult the plugs will be to remove.

Do you have tools? Are you able to do any work yourself? If you don't have tools and must take your car into the shop,***** Make sure the shop knows the procedure to change the 2 piece plugs. I would suggest replacing all 8 plugs with a 1 piece design
Concerning your recommendation for replacing the 2 piece design spark plugs, I'll just add by stating there are only 3 manufacturers I'm aware of that offer 1 piece design spark plugs. Champion, Brisk Racing and NGK. Out of those 3, I would recommend NGK over Brisk and Champion. Unfortunately for my particular application, I could only use the Brisk Racing plugs, due that my car is supercharged and requires one degree colder spark plugs. Therefore I use Autolite HT0 plugs and despite being a 2 piece design spark plug, they're design and construction is far superior over OEM Motorcraft. Also when applying high-temp nickel anti-seize to the ground shield barrels, the risk becomes far less of breakage/separation inside the heads. Also when following the recommended extraction procedure by Ford, this also significantly reduces the risk of separation/breakage as well. Anyway for what it's worth, just my $.02

Last edited by m05fastbackGT; 2/16/19 at 06:32 PM.
Old 2/17/19, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by m05fastbackGT
Concerning your recommendation for replacing the 2 piece design spark plugs, I'll just add by stating there are only 3 manufacturers I'm aware of that offer 1 piece design spark plugs. Champion, Brisk Racing and NGK. Out of those 3, I would recommend NGK over Brisk and Champion. Unfortunately for my particular application, I could only use the Brisk Racing plugs, due that my car is supercharged and requires one degree colder spark plugs. Therefore I use Autolite HT0 plugs and despite being a 2 piece design spark plug, they're design and construction is far superior over OEM Motorcraft. Also when applying high-temp nickel anti-seize to the ground shield barrels, the risk becomes far less of breakage/separation inside the heads. Also when following the recommended extraction procedure by Ford, this also significantly reduces the risk of separation/breakage as well. Anyway for what it's worth, just my $.02
I did my plugs a couple of years ago. I did use the Champions and I got at least one bad plug. I nixed the Champions and used these E3 E3.70 plugs, they aren't platinum, but they are a 1 piece design. When I did the plugs I bought the Lisle extractor tool. I didn't use the tool, I managed to get them all out without breaking any. I know if you use the nickel anti seize you probably wont have a problem. The extractor process looked pretty straight forward. I watched some video of a mechanic that had done lots. The same mechanic said he has had some plugs that broke off funny where he couldn't get the extractor tool in far enough to grab the broken piece. He said he then had to drill some of the broken plug out first in order to get the tool in. Now that is a total worst case scenario, but I thought there is no way in hell I want to go there. I just wouldn't take a chance on a 2 piece plug. I suppose as part of a maintenance thing you back the 2 piece plugs out every couple years and re anti seize you would be ok.

@ChiquitiNegro You have had some bad luck with your Stang. Our cars have about the same mileage and mine has been excellent. I threw the TPS code and throttle actuator code. I reset everything and everything ran fine again, but I figured it was only a matter of time. I priced out the sensors and I think they were about $50 or $60 each. I bought a complete new Ford Racing throttle body with sensors for $150...so pretty much a no brainer. I just did the front and back brakes too. If I went cheap I could have got away with pads. One of my front rotors was warped, so I splurged for drilled slotted rotors for the front and rear. I also just did the battery too. Other than that my Stang has been awesome, hopefully I am goof for another 5 years. Hey if you want to check mine out I posted some pictures of it in the Satin Silver section, mine is an 05 GT too. Hey ChiquitinNegro post some pictures of your car.
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Old 2/20/19, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by darcman
I did my plugs a couple of years ago. I did use the Champions and I got at least one bad plug. I nixed the Champions and used these E3 E3.70 plugs, they aren't platinum, but they are a 1 piece design. When I did the plugs I bought the Lisle extractor tool. I didn't use the tool, I managed to get them all out without breaking any. I know if you use the nickel anti seize you probably wont have a problem. The extractor process looked pretty straight forward. I watched some video of a mechanic that had done lots. The same mechanic said he has had some plugs that broke off funny where he couldn't get the extractor tool in far enough to grab the broken piece. He said he then had to drill some of the broken plug out first in order to get the tool in. Now that is a total worst case scenario, but I thought there is no way in hell I want to go there. I just wouldn't take a chance on a 2 piece plug. I suppose as part of a maintenance thing you back the 2 piece plugs out every couple years and re anti seize you would be ok..
If only I were able to use a 1 piece design plug? I would most definitely go with the NGK over E3 or any of the others mentioned and the NGK plugs are also platinum. Just wish they would come out with a one degree colder spark plug for FI applications lol. Luckily when we did the spark plug change a few years ago, none of the plugs broke, thanks to using the recommended Ford extraction procedure. I also agree that performing a maintenance schedule by backing out the 2 piece plugs every couple years then reapplying with anti-seize will prevent carbon from building up onto the ground shield barrels which will significantly reduce the risk of breaking/separation of the spark plugs without a doubt.
Old 3/5/19, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by m05fastbackGT
If only I were able to use a 1 piece design plug? I would most definitely go with the NGK over E3 or any of the others mentioned and the NGK plugs are also platinum. Just wish they would come out with a one degree colder spark plug for FI applications lol. Luckily when we did the spark plug change a few years ago, none of the plugs broke, thanks to using the recommended Ford extraction procedure. I also agree that performing a maintenance schedule by backing out the 2 piece plugs every couple years then reapplying with anti-seize will prevent carbon from building up onto the ground shield barrels which will significantly reduce the risk of breaking/separation of the spark plugs without a doubt.
Hey do you have a part number for the NGK platinums...I looked on the NGK site and never did find anything for the 05 GT 4.6
Old 3/5/19, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by darcman
Hey do you have a part number for the NGK platinums...I looked on the NGK site and never did find anything for the 05 GT 4.6
Please accept my apology, as I provided the wrong info. Apparently, I must have gotten my wires crossed between NGK and MSD. At any rate, the NGK spark plugs are only available for mid-2008-2010 4.6L 3valve and 2011-current 5.0L 4valve Coyote models. Therefore here's the correct info. MSD 16mm Iridium spark plug, part # 37164. In the meantime, I've also provided the MSD link below for you to look over and hope this clarifies what was previously posted on my part. Thanks in advance, Rocky

https://www.holley.com/products/igni...gs/parts/37164
Old 3/10/19, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by m05fastbackGT
Please accept my apology, as I provided the wrong info. Apparently, I must have gotten my wires crossed between NGK and MSD. At any rate, the NGK spark plugs are only available for mid-2008-2010 4.6L 3valve and 2011-current 5.0L 4valve Coyote models. Therefore here's the correct info. MSD 16mm Iridium spark plug, part # 37164. In the meantime, I've also provided the MSD link below for you to look over and hope this clarifies what was previously posted on my part. Thanks in advance, Rocky

https://www.holley.com/products/igni...gs/parts/37164
Hey thanks that's awesome. I knew about all the other one piece plugs available, I didn't know about the one piece MSD...they are not too bad of a price either
I have had zero issues with my E3.70, but I got slightly better gas mileage with the stock platinums
Old 3/11/19, 12:50 AM
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Jorge, since your in an area that has very little support you have to get a scan tool to tell you and us which codes may be present with your issues. If you don't we can only guess at your problems. Even if you don't have a check engine light On but have an issue there may be a historical non-hard code that will help. If the garage you take it to doesn't tell you the correct code we will be sent in the wrong direction. You can use a website such as this https://www.obd-codes.com/ to help explain what the codes mean and possible solutions so you have some understanding of what may be causing your problems. Hope this helps.
Old 3/14/19, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by darcman
Hey thanks that's awesome. I knew about all the other one piece plugs available, I didn't know about the one piece MSD...they are not too bad of a price either
I have had zero issues with my E3.70, but I got slightly better gas mileage with the stock platinums
IIRC, the stock platinums are good up to 100k miles, whereas the MSD iridium, E3, and Brisk racing plugs require replacement at 25k miles. But for one-piece design plugs, I consider that as a very small price to pay IMO.
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