Changing Stereo Killed Electrical Flow
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Changing Stereo Killed Electrical Flow
Hello.
I have a 2006 V6 Ford Mustang and I was trying to install a new stereo for bluetooth purposes. After removing the original stereo and installing the new one, the car operated perfectly fine but the stereo would not turn on. I removed the car's battery and tested the stereo (with all of the speaker connections still attached) with the battery by connecting the stereo's 12v constant and accessory wire together with the positive terminal of the battery and the ground wire of the stereo to the negative terminal of the battery. The stereo turned on.
From there I reinstalled the battery to the car and now the car does not detect the battery at all: no lights come on when the ignition is halfway turned, and no cranking or clicking when the ignition is fully turned, even after installing a new battery.
After running a parasitic draw test, I found the Front Amplifier (Shaker 500) fuse location has a massive draw that my multimeter cannot read and it makes the multimeter wires really hot. Is it possible for the amp to have a short such that the flow of electricity is completely interrupted? And what can I do to find the problem and fix it from here? I am trying to DIY this.
Thanks!
I have a 2006 V6 Ford Mustang and I was trying to install a new stereo for bluetooth purposes. After removing the original stereo and installing the new one, the car operated perfectly fine but the stereo would not turn on. I removed the car's battery and tested the stereo (with all of the speaker connections still attached) with the battery by connecting the stereo's 12v constant and accessory wire together with the positive terminal of the battery and the ground wire of the stereo to the negative terminal of the battery. The stereo turned on.
From there I reinstalled the battery to the car and now the car does not detect the battery at all: no lights come on when the ignition is halfway turned, and no cranking or clicking when the ignition is fully turned, even after installing a new battery.
After running a parasitic draw test, I found the Front Amplifier (Shaker 500) fuse location has a massive draw that my multimeter cannot read and it makes the multimeter wires really hot. Is it possible for the amp to have a short such that the flow of electricity is completely interrupted? And what can I do to find the problem and fix it from here? I am trying to DIY this.
Thanks!
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