07 Mustang GT
Thread Starter
Mach 1 Member
Joined: September 2, 2020
Posts: 615
Likes: 464
From: The Coal Region (Skook)
07 Mustang GT
Hello all, I was just trying to get some feed back from some people. I am looking into a 2007 Mustang GT with a 5 speed manual. I currently have a 08 V6 automatic. I ah e always wanted a mistang with a manual tranny in it and it just popped up one day and is actually right down the road and is being sold by a friend of a friend. Doesn't seem to be in bad condition and I already test drove it. Just seeing if there is anything I should be looking for or asking. Oh and I am having it looked at by the mechanic that I take my cars to when I can't or dont have the time do it my self. Than6
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: January 25, 2010
Posts: 3,969
Likes: 1,663
From: Massachusetts
90,000 is substantial miles but not a big deal, my 2010 has 105K including a bunch of track days and it still runs and looks great with no major issues (other than normal wear items).
There are a lot of small potential issues. I don't want to try to list them because I'll probably forget some. Generally these cars are pretty solid, especially if well maintained. I'd suggest that you skim the threads in the 2005-2009 Mustang Talk section to get an idea of the issues.
There are a lot of small potential issues. I don't want to try to list them because I'll probably forget some. Generally these cars are pretty solid, especially if well maintained. I'd suggest that you skim the threads in the 2005-2009 Mustang Talk section to get an idea of the issues.
Legacy TMS Member
Joined: February 2, 2004
Posts: 7,648
Likes: 675
From: Insane
S197 4.6L Issues (I think this is most of 'em...)
Original ball joints and strut mounts are known to be... fun. Replace with GT500 front control arms and strut mounts and that'll be solved.
Original rear lower control arms are... meh. Replace with upgraded rear lower control arms. GT500 is a good choice too.
Sway bar bushings tend to go out, replace with upgrades. I just did the whole dang bar.
Leaks sometimes happen on the passenger front, near the kick panel, at the Smart Junction Box. This can be due to the drain for the outside air box being plugged up, or there's a windshield seal issue, or there's a passenger door weatherstrip issue. Not always, mind, but something to be aware of. The SJB is kind of a pain to deal with if it gets corroded. Not terrible, but I'm glad mine hasn't yet come up to be sure. Later '07s and up have had mods to fix this issue, supposedly.
---
Edit, MUUUCH later: The SJB 'fix' is a shield to keep it from getting water on it. So I wanted to add that, but I'm really here all these years later in '25 to add this: The passenger door AND cowl leaks got mine. :| The cowl leaks were addressed by using RTV around the little locator pockets that are clipped into the cowl and align the cowl panel (plastic from windshield to engine bay, the piece you have to remove for the cabin filter, for example.) But I still had a leak. And that turned out to be the weatherstrip between the body and the window weatherstrip holder channel strip. Don't ask me why this is a thing, but it's a thing. I'll have to go remind myself what size replacement I got at the Homed Epoch or the Lores but it's that squishy type of stuff that comes in like 1/2" tall and has some tape on it. It gets squished down between that channel and the body. It gets tore up over years and fails. Fun figuring that out, actually, and it's not the most awful job. Just gotta pull off the sill, the kick panel, A-pillar trim, and pull back the quarter panel panel, remove the window/door weatherstrip, then unscrew and pull out the channel thingy. Remove the stickyback old foam weatherstrip (you'll see why it failed) and then install the new stickyback foam weatherstrip. Installation is reverse of removal. Takes maybe an hour a door, with cleaning? Tada, water leaks gone with those two likely. Don't get too carried away with the foam height, it has to *squish* down to almost nothing. Anyway, wanted to document this. Carry on.
---
The TR-3650 is known to be notchy as heck and fun times with the synchros are had by all, and all due to the remote shifter combined with the internal three rails. Thankfully, the issues of the SN94 models were addressed in the '05s and up, so they're otherwise stout transmissions, overall. A blowfish bracket and MGW shifter are supposedly THE combo, but even I haven't done this, still running the old original bracket and shifter... I've just learned to live with it, get to know my shifter kind of thing. Still goin' strong at near 185K and climbing... And yet, I still every so often grack second or third. So fun.
Some say the Shaker 500/1000 CD changer head units are Skipper 500/1000s because their CDs... do that. Mine hasn't ever. And I use the *heck* outta that CD player. But still, just something to be aware of, I guess.
The door panels will peel off. It's a thing. You can look up the fix (scrape them off, scrape the door to get rid of the nasty foam/backing, apply contact cement, and good luck).
Filling the fuel tank is fun. Especially near empty. Use... The Method... and it's not that big a deal, really.
Batteries and alternators. Something about these cars will eat them. The batteries are going to die, and that's just the way it is. My theory is the location of the battery tends to not get air flow, causing heat from the exhaust drifting up there and staying put, cooking the battery. This causes the alternator to take over the load and cook itself. A vicious back and forth cycle. The solution I've found is thus: Get a Walmart Everstart and don't worry about it. Cheap, good warranty, and THE SAME as any other battery out there, so don't spend extra. Good enough for racers, good enough for me. Alternator, get a good lifetime warranty and learn to swap it, it's not hard. And if you do this, the charging system will thank you plenty. Iv'e gotten many more years out of the batteries than I did previous to doing all that, so... there ya go?
---
Edit again muuuch later in '25: I've found a couple of things since this write up. One: Rebuilt alternators are junk junk junk ok finally got one. So I don't much know what to do about that, either the pulley clutch is shot, or the regulator is. Had to replace (again) the alternator, first replacement just didn't charge. Second replacement charged, then spiked here and there, then finally went nuclear charging then quit charging period. Thankfully by the time all this was going on, I had the fortune of figuring out how to stick a group 48/H6 battery in there which has a LOT more capacity than the group 96Rs that are stock, so that was nice timing on my part.
Also, the link is dead due to a forum issue back when. The Wayback Machine has it though. I may repost it at some point for to have a proper link, but here ya go, The Amelioration in all it's former and still relevant glory.
And the link about the Group 48/H6 battery.
---
Spark plugs. '05-early 07s will have the two piece plug and they're... dumb. Yes. And yet, I still use them because except for getting them out, they're otherwise completely fine. And after the first extraction, if you do it right, you'll pretty much not have any issue after that due to the nickel anti seize you should use. Here's that subject. It's not difficult, overall, just take your time, or pay someone to do it, and be sure to do that nickel and it'll be fine thereafter. I know, because she's on her third set now. Not an issue after you get 'em out and do it right. If it applies, that is, later 07s and up changed the heads and spark plugs to address this problem, they don't need that goofiness done. Well, mainly the trucks were the reason, let's be honest, but still.
The oem type clutches in these cars are deceptive. They'll act *just peachy* until they... don't. I'd say about 120K or so, you might want to go ahead and swap it out. Oh, it'll drive and go, but you're losing MPG and that's not great. Otherwise, it just goes and goes and acts just about as normal as it can. Testing will prove it's 'fine', when it really isn't. Goofy, that. I only know because mine did exactly that. Only indication was the MPG was a little worse... then a little worse... I attributed it to the age/mileage of the car. Then I couldn't get it into first or reverse bad enough I decided that it must be time. Oh, boy was it. Getting the transmission out is fun, in that you have to tilt the transmission down about 30 degrees and at the same time rotate the thing to the left about 45, then it pops right out. That, and all the exhaust has to go too. Get a new flywheel, they're cheap, and an entire clutch kit with throwout bearing.
Master Cylinder for the clutch. They need replacement about after 10 years or so due to the plastic clevis on it (that attaches to the pedal arm) will disintegrate, leaving you with no clutch. That was a fun day. The entire master cylinder has to be swapped out. That's apparently also a fun day. There's metal replacements for the clevis, but I'm not sure I'd do that myself... I consider the plastic destroying itself the 'warning light' saying "perhaps you need a new master cylinder and clutch and throwout, eh?" If only I'd have listened...
Finally... if you are getting a rattle at start up at the front of the engine that goes away after a couple of seconds, that's a chain guide tensioner going out. Most likely the right side, although the left side being blown out won't really produce the rattle due to how it all works. You *can* let it go for a while... I went 170K on mine, silly me, but I paid for it dearly... after doing this fix after the right guide exploded, sending plastic bits into the oil pan, I'd suggest fixing it before the guide explodes. It's not *hard*, just a lot of things to do in a row. You want to avoid having to pull the oil pan out is all. Trust me. And most shops who see/hear this rattle will immediately start walking backwards and quoting you a new engine. The unfortunate side of the 4.6/5.4 3v engines. (Note: They're awesome motors. It's just they're complicated and time consuming to do timing/oil pumps on, and because of that, and the rest of anything they do to the motor/area to work on it, they would just rather swap the entire thing out. Less time, easier, and more guarantee it'll just work out the door.) (This is why I became the warranty and did it myself. 6-9K for the swap vs 2-3K for the parts and tools on a car that was apparently worth 4K or so, according to them, They, THOSE PEOPLE (KBB/NADA). Not counting the extra stuff I did because 'while there' happened. Totally worth, btw, experience and anti-skeert medicine.
)
Pretty much all I can remember and that I've got saved away for reference. Most other stuff is odds and ends like a power seat switch that went out, or the trunk latch what goes BRRRRRT like an A10 Warthog's gatling gun... that sort of thing, just replace those as needed. If I missed something, I'm sure someone will show up to say 'yo, dude, what the entire heck?!'
And *all that said*... honestly, my '06 is the best car I've ever owned in all my many years. Warts and all.
The engine timing was the only thing I dreaded on this car... and now that I've done that, I am unafraid of *anything* on this car. It's just stuff. Although rebuilding the transmission or axle is going to be fun when (yes, when) it happens, but not just yet! She's still easily the very best, and I've had some really good ones. Overall, I highly recommend the S197s. The later ones with dual climate and all that entertainment futziness is a bit more complication than I like in a car, but if you want that stuff, go for it. In this case, the '07 with that miles is good stuff, but you might have a couple of things to address. Certainly suspension is going to be a thing coming up right off, I'd say.
Hope that helps, and welcome to the forums!
/Um... all that to say "Yes, get it!"
//I'll be seriously surprised if ALL that is happening at once... but it won't surprise if one or two need to be looked at. I'd suspect suspension right off, honestly.
---
Edit, much later: Automagic transmissions weren't addressed up there. So here we go.
The 5R55S in the 4.6L S197s are pretty good, but they do have a solenoid pack that might have issues, and/or the solenoid bore/piston may or may not have a problem. One can be done in car (the solenoid pack), but the other may require the transmission out to fix. Go look up FordTechMakuLoco on Youtube and use the search '5r55' and you'll find his videos on the overall issues with this transmission family and what to do to fix 'em.
Original ball joints and strut mounts are known to be... fun. Replace with GT500 front control arms and strut mounts and that'll be solved.
Original rear lower control arms are... meh. Replace with upgraded rear lower control arms. GT500 is a good choice too.
Sway bar bushings tend to go out, replace with upgrades. I just did the whole dang bar.
Leaks sometimes happen on the passenger front, near the kick panel, at the Smart Junction Box. This can be due to the drain for the outside air box being plugged up, or there's a windshield seal issue, or there's a passenger door weatherstrip issue. Not always, mind, but something to be aware of. The SJB is kind of a pain to deal with if it gets corroded. Not terrible, but I'm glad mine hasn't yet come up to be sure. Later '07s and up have had mods to fix this issue, supposedly.
---
Edit, MUUUCH later: The SJB 'fix' is a shield to keep it from getting water on it. So I wanted to add that, but I'm really here all these years later in '25 to add this: The passenger door AND cowl leaks got mine. :| The cowl leaks were addressed by using RTV around the little locator pockets that are clipped into the cowl and align the cowl panel (plastic from windshield to engine bay, the piece you have to remove for the cabin filter, for example.) But I still had a leak. And that turned out to be the weatherstrip between the body and the window weatherstrip holder channel strip. Don't ask me why this is a thing, but it's a thing. I'll have to go remind myself what size replacement I got at the Homed Epoch or the Lores but it's that squishy type of stuff that comes in like 1/2" tall and has some tape on it. It gets squished down between that channel and the body. It gets tore up over years and fails. Fun figuring that out, actually, and it's not the most awful job. Just gotta pull off the sill, the kick panel, A-pillar trim, and pull back the quarter panel panel, remove the window/door weatherstrip, then unscrew and pull out the channel thingy. Remove the stickyback old foam weatherstrip (you'll see why it failed) and then install the new stickyback foam weatherstrip. Installation is reverse of removal. Takes maybe an hour a door, with cleaning? Tada, water leaks gone with those two likely. Don't get too carried away with the foam height, it has to *squish* down to almost nothing. Anyway, wanted to document this. Carry on.
---
The TR-3650 is known to be notchy as heck and fun times with the synchros are had by all, and all due to the remote shifter combined with the internal three rails. Thankfully, the issues of the SN94 models were addressed in the '05s and up, so they're otherwise stout transmissions, overall. A blowfish bracket and MGW shifter are supposedly THE combo, but even I haven't done this, still running the old original bracket and shifter... I've just learned to live with it, get to know my shifter kind of thing. Still goin' strong at near 185K and climbing... And yet, I still every so often grack second or third. So fun.
Some say the Shaker 500/1000 CD changer head units are Skipper 500/1000s because their CDs... do that. Mine hasn't ever. And I use the *heck* outta that CD player. But still, just something to be aware of, I guess.
The door panels will peel off. It's a thing. You can look up the fix (scrape them off, scrape the door to get rid of the nasty foam/backing, apply contact cement, and good luck).
Filling the fuel tank is fun. Especially near empty. Use... The Method... and it's not that big a deal, really.
Batteries and alternators. Something about these cars will eat them. The batteries are going to die, and that's just the way it is. My theory is the location of the battery tends to not get air flow, causing heat from the exhaust drifting up there and staying put, cooking the battery. This causes the alternator to take over the load and cook itself. A vicious back and forth cycle. The solution I've found is thus: Get a Walmart Everstart and don't worry about it. Cheap, good warranty, and THE SAME as any other battery out there, so don't spend extra. Good enough for racers, good enough for me. Alternator, get a good lifetime warranty and learn to swap it, it's not hard. And if you do this, the charging system will thank you plenty. Iv'e gotten many more years out of the batteries than I did previous to doing all that, so... there ya go?
---
Edit again muuuch later in '25: I've found a couple of things since this write up. One: Rebuilt alternators are junk junk junk ok finally got one.
So I don't much know what to do about that, either the pulley clutch is shot, or the regulator is. Had to replace (again) the alternator, first replacement just didn't charge. Second replacement charged, then spiked here and there, then finally went nuclear charging then quit charging period. Thankfully by the time all this was going on, I had the fortune of figuring out how to stick a group 48/H6 battery in there which has a LOT more capacity than the group 96Rs that are stock, so that was nice timing on my part.Also, the link is dead due to a forum issue back when. The Wayback Machine has it though. I may repost it at some point for to have a proper link, but here ya go, The Amelioration in all it's former and still relevant glory.
And the link about the Group 48/H6 battery.
---
Spark plugs. '05-early 07s will have the two piece plug and they're... dumb. Yes. And yet, I still use them because except for getting them out, they're otherwise completely fine. And after the first extraction, if you do it right, you'll pretty much not have any issue after that due to the nickel anti seize you should use. Here's that subject. It's not difficult, overall, just take your time, or pay someone to do it, and be sure to do that nickel and it'll be fine thereafter. I know, because she's on her third set now. Not an issue after you get 'em out and do it right. If it applies, that is, later 07s and up changed the heads and spark plugs to address this problem, they don't need that goofiness done. Well, mainly the trucks were the reason, let's be honest, but still.
The oem type clutches in these cars are deceptive. They'll act *just peachy* until they... don't. I'd say about 120K or so, you might want to go ahead and swap it out. Oh, it'll drive and go, but you're losing MPG and that's not great. Otherwise, it just goes and goes and acts just about as normal as it can. Testing will prove it's 'fine', when it really isn't. Goofy, that. I only know because mine did exactly that. Only indication was the MPG was a little worse... then a little worse... I attributed it to the age/mileage of the car. Then I couldn't get it into first or reverse bad enough I decided that it must be time. Oh, boy was it.
Getting the transmission out is fun, in that you have to tilt the transmission down about 30 degrees and at the same time rotate the thing to the left about 45, then it pops right out. That, and all the exhaust has to go too. Get a new flywheel, they're cheap, and an entire clutch kit with throwout bearing.Master Cylinder for the clutch. They need replacement about after 10 years or so due to the plastic clevis on it (that attaches to the pedal arm) will disintegrate, leaving you with no clutch. That was a fun day. The entire master cylinder has to be swapped out. That's apparently also a fun day. There's metal replacements for the clevis, but I'm not sure I'd do that myself... I consider the plastic destroying itself the 'warning light' saying "perhaps you need a new master cylinder and clutch and throwout, eh?"
If only I'd have listened...Finally... if you are getting a rattle at start up at the front of the engine that goes away after a couple of seconds, that's a chain guide tensioner going out. Most likely the right side, although the left side being blown out won't really produce the rattle due to how it all works. You *can* let it go for a while... I went 170K on mine, silly me, but I paid for it dearly... after doing this fix after the right guide exploded, sending plastic bits into the oil pan, I'd suggest fixing it before the guide explodes. It's not *hard*, just a lot of things to do in a row. You want to avoid having to pull the oil pan out is all. Trust me. And most shops who see/hear this rattle will immediately start walking backwards and quoting you a new engine. The unfortunate side of the 4.6/5.4 3v engines. (Note: They're awesome motors. It's just they're complicated and time consuming to do timing/oil pumps on, and because of that, and the rest of anything they do to the motor/area to work on it, they would just rather swap the entire thing out. Less time, easier, and more guarantee it'll just work out the door.) (This is why I became the warranty and did it myself. 6-9K for the swap vs 2-3K for the parts and tools on a car that was apparently worth 4K or so, according to them, They, THOSE PEOPLE (KBB/NADA). Not counting the extra stuff I did because 'while there' happened. Totally worth, btw, experience and anti-skeert medicine.
)Pretty much all I can remember and that I've got saved away for reference. Most other stuff is odds and ends like a power seat switch that went out, or the trunk latch what goes BRRRRRT like an A10 Warthog's gatling gun... that sort of thing, just replace those as needed. If I missed something, I'm sure someone will show up to say 'yo, dude, what the entire heck?!'
And *all that said*... honestly, my '06 is the best car I've ever owned in all my many years. Warts and all.
The engine timing was the only thing I dreaded on this car... and now that I've done that, I am unafraid of *anything* on this car. It's just stuff. Although rebuilding the transmission or axle is going to be fun when (yes, when) it happens, but not just yet! She's still easily the very best, and I've had some really good ones. Overall, I highly recommend the S197s. The later ones with dual climate and all that entertainment futziness is a bit more complication than I like in a car, but if you want that stuff, go for it. In this case, the '07 with that miles is good stuff, but you might have a couple of things to address. Certainly suspension is going to be a thing coming up right off, I'd say.Hope that helps, and welcome to the forums!
/Um... all that to say "Yes, get it!"
//I'll be seriously surprised if ALL that is happening at once... but it won't surprise if one or two need to be looked at. I'd suspect suspension right off, honestly.
---
Edit, much later: Automagic transmissions weren't addressed up there. So here we go.
The 5R55S in the 4.6L S197s are pretty good, but they do have a solenoid pack that might have issues, and/or the solenoid bore/piston may or may not have a problem. One can be done in car (the solenoid pack), but the other may require the transmission out to fix. Go look up FordTechMakuLoco on Youtube and use the search '5r55' and you'll find his videos on the overall issues with this transmission family and what to do to fix 'em.
Last edited by houtex; May 23, 2025 at 09:29 PM. Reason: Forgot autos IDK when. New info in '25, hadda add it.
Thread Starter
Mach 1 Member
Joined: September 2, 2020
Posts: 615
Likes: 464
From: The Coal Region (Skook)
Thanks that all helped. I spoke with my mechanic ( not a dealership mechanic) and he had it for a day or so and went over everything and said it checked out and pretty much said the same stuff that you mentioned. Seems to be in workingor and runs great. The guy I bought it off, oh yeah I just bought it 👍 his dad is a pretty good mechanic also. I thank you again.
Gotta Have it Green Fanatic Official TMS Travel Guide
Joined: December 17, 2012
Posts: 2,552
Likes: 1,356
From: Western NC
Just wanted to say 'nice looking ride' and i hope you get many years of enjoyment out of it. I really enjoy my 5 speed tranny and have had no issues with it or the clutch. Mine is mostly a highway miles car and outside of the constant air bag recalls a few years back, my car has only seen the shop for routine fluid changes. Make sure you use the correct coolant and change that brake fluid if it looks nasty. Enjoy!!!
Thread Starter
Mach 1 Member
Joined: September 2, 2020
Posts: 615
Likes: 464
From: The Coal Region (Skook)
My grandfather has always had a mustang he is in his 80's now and he turned it in to a drag car when he was young. That is where I got my love for Mustangs. He didn't stop racing until a short while ago. He called his car The Horse With No Name. It started out maroon and black then he went all black. That is why my 07 stuck out to me. I also have a 08 V6 that my wife bought for me as a birthday gift. Its totally white. The only other color than the logos which are chrome is the rockers that are black.
Last edited by Jaryd21; Sep 9, 2020 at 08:22 PM.
Member
Joined: October 3, 2025
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Mexico
S197 4.6L Issues (I think this is most of 'em...)
Original ball joints and strut mounts are known to be... fun. Replace with GT500 front control arms and strut mounts and that'll be solved.
Original rear lower control arms are... meh. Replace with upgraded rear lower control arms. GT500 is a good choice too.
Sway bar bushings tend to go out, replace with upgrades. I just did the whole dang bar.
Leaks sometimes happen on the passenger front, near the kick panel, at the Smart Junction Box. This can be due to the drain for the outside air box being plugged up, or there's a windshield seal issue, or there's a passenger door weatherstrip issue. Not always, mind, but something to be aware of. The SJB is kind of a pain to deal with if it gets corroded. Not terrible, but I'm glad mine hasn't yet come up to be sure. Later '07s and up have had mods to fix this issue, supposedly.
---
Edit, MUUUCH later: The SJB 'fix' is a shield to keep it from getting water on it. So I wanted to add that, but I'm really here all these years later in '25 to add this: The passenger door AND cowl leaks got mine. :| The cowl leaks were addressed by using RTV around the little locator pockets that are clipped into the cowl and align the cowl panel (plastic from windshield to engine bay, the piece you have to remove for the cabin filter, for example.) But I still had a leak. And that turned out to be the weatherstrip between the body and the window weatherstrip holder channel strip. Don't ask me why this is a thing, but it's a thing. I'll have to go remind myself what size replacement I got at the Homed Epoch or the Lores but it's that squishy type of stuff that comes in like 1/2" tall and has some tape on it. It gets squished down between that channel and the body. It gets tore up over years and fails. Fun figuring that out, actually, and it's not the most awful job. Just gotta pull off the sill, the kick panel, A-pillar trim, and pull back the quarter panel panel, remove the window/door weatherstrip, then unscrew and pull out the channel thingy. Remove the stickyback old foam weatherstrip (you'll see why it failed) and then install the new stickyback foam weatherstrip. Installation is reverse of removal. Takes maybe an hour a door, with cleaning? Tada, water leaks gone with those two likely. Don't get too carried away with the foam height, it has to *squish* down to almost nothing. Anyway, wanted to document this. Carry on.
---
The TR-3650 is known to be notchy as heck and fun times with the synchros are had by all, and all due to the remote shifter combined with the internal three rails. Thankfully, the issues of the SN94 models were addressed in the '05s and up, so they're otherwise stout transmissions, overall. A blowfish bracket and MGW shifter are supposedly THE combo, but even I haven't done this, still running the old original bracket and shifter... I've just learned to live with it, get to know my shifter kind of thing. Still goin' strong at near 185K and climbing... And yet, I still every so often grack second or third. So fun.
Some say the Shaker 500/1000 CD changer head units are Skipper 500/1000s because their CDs... do that. Mine hasn't ever. And I use the *heck* outta that CD player. But still, just something to be aware of, I guess.
The door panels will peel off. It's a thing. You can look up the fix (scrape them off, scrape the door to get rid of the nasty foam/backing, apply contact cement, and good luck).
Filling the fuel tank is fun. Especially near empty. Use... The Method... and it's not that big a deal, really.
Batteries and alternators. Something about these cars will eat them. The batteries are going to die, and that's just the way it is. My theory is the location of the battery tends to not get air flow, causing heat from the exhaust drifting up there and staying put, cooking the battery. This causes the alternator to take over the load and cook itself. A vicious back and forth cycle. The solution I've found is thus: Get a Walmart Everstart and don't worry about it. Cheap, good warranty, and THE SAME as any other battery out there, so don't spend extra. Good enough for racers, good enough for me. Alternator, get a good lifetime warranty and learn to swap it, it's not hard. And if you do this, the charging system will thank you plenty. Iv'e gotten many more years out of the batteries than I did previous to doing all that, so... there ya go?
---
Edit again muuuch later in '25: I've found a couple of things since this write up. One: Rebuilt alternators are junk junk junk ok finally got one. So I don't much know what to do about that, either the pulley clutch is shot, or the regulator is. Had to replace (again) the alternator, first replacement just didn't charge. Second replacement charged, then spiked here and there, then finally went nuclear charging then quit charging period. Thankfully by the time all this was going on, I had the fortune of figuring out how to stick a group 48/H6 battery in there which has a LOT more capacity than the group 96Rs that are stock, so that was nice timing on my part.
Also, the link is dead due to a forum issue back when. The Wayback Machine has it though. I may repost it at some point for to have a proper link, but here ya go, The Amelioration in all it's former and still relevant glory.
And the link about the Group 48/H6 battery.
---
Spark plugs. '05-early 07s will have the two piece plug and they're... dumb. Yes. And yet, I still use them because except for getting them out, they're otherwise completely fine. And after the first extraction, if you do it right, you'll pretty much not have any issue after that due to the nickel anti seize you should use. Here's that subject. It's not difficult, overall, just take your time, or pay someone to do it, and be sure to do that nickel and it'll be fine thereafter. I know, because she's on her third set now. Not an issue after you get 'em out and do it right. If it applies, that is, later 07s and up changed the heads and spark plugs to address this problem, they don't need that goofiness done. Well, mainly the trucks were the reason, let's be honest, but still.
The oem type clutches in these cars are deceptive. They'll act *just peachy* until they... don't. I'd say about 120K or so, you might want to go ahead and swap it out. Oh, it'll drive and go, but you're losing MPG and that's not great. Otherwise, it just goes and goes and acts just about as normal as it can. Testing will prove it's 'fine', when it really isn't. Goofy, that. I only know because mine did exactly that. Only indication was the MPG was a little worse... then a little worse... I attributed it to the age/mileage of the car. Then I couldn't get it into first or reverse bad enough I decided that it must be time. Oh, boy was it. Getting the transmission out is fun, in that you have to tilt the transmission down about 30 degrees and at the same time rotate the thing to the left about 45, then it pops right out. That, and all the exhaust has to go too. Get a new flywheel, they're cheap, and an entire clutch kit with throwout bearing.
Master Cylinder for the clutch. They need replacement about after 10 years or so due to the plastic clevis on it (that attaches to the pedal arm) will disintegrate, leaving you with no clutch. That was a fun day. The entire master cylinder has to be swapped out. That's apparently also a fun day. There's metal replacements for the clevis, but I'm not sure I'd do that myself... I consider the plastic destroying itself the 'warning light' saying "perhaps you need a new master cylinder and clutch and throwout, eh?" If only I'd have listened...
Finally... if you are getting a rattle at start up at the front of the engine that goes away after a couple of seconds, that's a chain guide tensioner going out. Most likely the right side, although the left side being blown out won't really produce the rattle due to how it all works. You *can* let it go for a while... I went 170K on mine, silly me, but I paid for it dearly... after doing this fix after the right guide exploded, sending plastic bits into the oil pan, I'd suggest fixing it before the guide explodes. It's not *hard*, just a lot of things to do in a row. You want to avoid having to pull the oil pan out is all. Trust me. And most shops who see/hear this rattle will immediately start walking backwards and quoting you a new engine. The unfortunate side of the 4.6/5.4 3v engines. (Note: They're awesome motors. It's just they're complicated and time consuming to do timing/oil pumps on, and because of that, and the rest of anything they do to the motor/area to work on it, they would just rather swap the entire thing out. Less time, easier, and more guarantee it'll just work out the door.) (This is why I became the warranty and did it myself. 6-9K for the swap vs 2-3K for the parts and tools on a car that was apparently worth 4K or so, according to them, They, THOSE PEOPLE (KBB/NADA). Not counting the extra stuff I did because 'while there' happened. Totally worth, btw, experience and anti-skeert medicine.)
Pretty much all I can remember and that I've got saved away for reference. Most other stuff is odds and ends like a power seat switch that went out, or the trunk latch what goes BRRRRRT like an A10 Warthog's gatling gun... that sort of thing, just replace those as needed. If I missed something, I'm sure someone will show up to say 'yo, dude, what the entire heck?!'
And *all that said*... honestly, my '06 is the best car I've ever owned in all my many years. Warts and all. The engine timing was the only thing I dreaded on this car... and now that I've done that, I am unafraid of *anything* on this car. It's just stuff. Although rebuilding the transmission or axle is going to be fun when (yes, when) it happens, but not just yet! She's still easily the very best, and I've had some really good ones. Overall, I highly recommend the S197s. The later ones with dual climate and all that entertainment futziness is a bit more complication than I like in a car, but if you want that stuff, go for it. In this case, the '07 with that miles is good stuff, but you might have a couple of things to address. Certainly suspension is going to be a thing coming up right off, I'd say.
Hope that helps, and welcome to the forums!
/Um... all that to say "Yes, get it!"
//I'll be seriously surprised if ALL that is happening at once... but it won't surprise if one or two need to be looked at. I'd suspect suspension right off, honestly.
---
Edit, much later: Automagic transmissions weren't addressed up there. So here we go.
The 5R55S in the 4.6L S197s are pretty good, but they do have a solenoid pack that might have issues, and/or the solenoid bore/piston may or may not have a problem. One can be done in car (the solenoid pack), but the other may require the transmission out to fix. Go look up FordTechMakuLoco on Youtube and use the search '5r55' and you'll find his videos on the overall issues with this transmission family and what to do to fix 'em.
Original ball joints and strut mounts are known to be... fun. Replace with GT500 front control arms and strut mounts and that'll be solved.
Original rear lower control arms are... meh. Replace with upgraded rear lower control arms. GT500 is a good choice too.
Sway bar bushings tend to go out, replace with upgrades. I just did the whole dang bar.
Leaks sometimes happen on the passenger front, near the kick panel, at the Smart Junction Box. This can be due to the drain for the outside air box being plugged up, or there's a windshield seal issue, or there's a passenger door weatherstrip issue. Not always, mind, but something to be aware of. The SJB is kind of a pain to deal with if it gets corroded. Not terrible, but I'm glad mine hasn't yet come up to be sure. Later '07s and up have had mods to fix this issue, supposedly.
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Edit, MUUUCH later: The SJB 'fix' is a shield to keep it from getting water on it. So I wanted to add that, but I'm really here all these years later in '25 to add this: The passenger door AND cowl leaks got mine. :| The cowl leaks were addressed by using RTV around the little locator pockets that are clipped into the cowl and align the cowl panel (plastic from windshield to engine bay, the piece you have to remove for the cabin filter, for example.) But I still had a leak. And that turned out to be the weatherstrip between the body and the window weatherstrip holder channel strip. Don't ask me why this is a thing, but it's a thing. I'll have to go remind myself what size replacement I got at the Homed Epoch or the Lores but it's that squishy type of stuff that comes in like 1/2" tall and has some tape on it. It gets squished down between that channel and the body. It gets tore up over years and fails. Fun figuring that out, actually, and it's not the most awful job. Just gotta pull off the sill, the kick panel, A-pillar trim, and pull back the quarter panel panel, remove the window/door weatherstrip, then unscrew and pull out the channel thingy. Remove the stickyback old foam weatherstrip (you'll see why it failed) and then install the new stickyback foam weatherstrip. Installation is reverse of removal. Takes maybe an hour a door, with cleaning? Tada, water leaks gone with those two likely. Don't get too carried away with the foam height, it has to *squish* down to almost nothing. Anyway, wanted to document this. Carry on.
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The TR-3650 is known to be notchy as heck and fun times with the synchros are had by all, and all due to the remote shifter combined with the internal three rails. Thankfully, the issues of the SN94 models were addressed in the '05s and up, so they're otherwise stout transmissions, overall. A blowfish bracket and MGW shifter are supposedly THE combo, but even I haven't done this, still running the old original bracket and shifter... I've just learned to live with it, get to know my shifter kind of thing. Still goin' strong at near 185K and climbing... And yet, I still every so often grack second or third. So fun.
Some say the Shaker 500/1000 CD changer head units are Skipper 500/1000s because their CDs... do that. Mine hasn't ever. And I use the *heck* outta that CD player. But still, just something to be aware of, I guess.
The door panels will peel off. It's a thing. You can look up the fix (scrape them off, scrape the door to get rid of the nasty foam/backing, apply contact cement, and good luck).
Filling the fuel tank is fun. Especially near empty. Use... The Method... and it's not that big a deal, really.
Batteries and alternators. Something about these cars will eat them. The batteries are going to die, and that's just the way it is. My theory is the location of the battery tends to not get air flow, causing heat from the exhaust drifting up there and staying put, cooking the battery. This causes the alternator to take over the load and cook itself. A vicious back and forth cycle. The solution I've found is thus: Get a Walmart Everstart and don't worry about it. Cheap, good warranty, and THE SAME as any other battery out there, so don't spend extra. Good enough for racers, good enough for me. Alternator, get a good lifetime warranty and learn to swap it, it's not hard. And if you do this, the charging system will thank you plenty. Iv'e gotten many more years out of the batteries than I did previous to doing all that, so... there ya go?
---
Edit again muuuch later in '25: I've found a couple of things since this write up. One: Rebuilt alternators are junk junk junk ok finally got one.
So I don't much know what to do about that, either the pulley clutch is shot, or the regulator is. Had to replace (again) the alternator, first replacement just didn't charge. Second replacement charged, then spiked here and there, then finally went nuclear charging then quit charging period. Thankfully by the time all this was going on, I had the fortune of figuring out how to stick a group 48/H6 battery in there which has a LOT more capacity than the group 96Rs that are stock, so that was nice timing on my part.Also, the link is dead due to a forum issue back when. The Wayback Machine has it though. I may repost it at some point for to have a proper link, but here ya go, The Amelioration in all it's former and still relevant glory.
And the link about the Group 48/H6 battery.
---
Spark plugs. '05-early 07s will have the two piece plug and they're... dumb. Yes. And yet, I still use them because except for getting them out, they're otherwise completely fine. And after the first extraction, if you do it right, you'll pretty much not have any issue after that due to the nickel anti seize you should use. Here's that subject. It's not difficult, overall, just take your time, or pay someone to do it, and be sure to do that nickel and it'll be fine thereafter. I know, because she's on her third set now. Not an issue after you get 'em out and do it right. If it applies, that is, later 07s and up changed the heads and spark plugs to address this problem, they don't need that goofiness done. Well, mainly the trucks were the reason, let's be honest, but still.
The oem type clutches in these cars are deceptive. They'll act *just peachy* until they... don't. I'd say about 120K or so, you might want to go ahead and swap it out. Oh, it'll drive and go, but you're losing MPG and that's not great. Otherwise, it just goes and goes and acts just about as normal as it can. Testing will prove it's 'fine', when it really isn't. Goofy, that. I only know because mine did exactly that. Only indication was the MPG was a little worse... then a little worse... I attributed it to the age/mileage of the car. Then I couldn't get it into first or reverse bad enough I decided that it must be time. Oh, boy was it.
Getting the transmission out is fun, in that you have to tilt the transmission down about 30 degrees and at the same time rotate the thing to the left about 45, then it pops right out. That, and all the exhaust has to go too. Get a new flywheel, they're cheap, and an entire clutch kit with throwout bearing.Master Cylinder for the clutch. They need replacement about after 10 years or so due to the plastic clevis on it (that attaches to the pedal arm) will disintegrate, leaving you with no clutch. That was a fun day. The entire master cylinder has to be swapped out. That's apparently also a fun day. There's metal replacements for the clevis, but I'm not sure I'd do that myself... I consider the plastic destroying itself the 'warning light' saying "perhaps you need a new master cylinder and clutch and throwout, eh?"
If only I'd have listened...Finally... if you are getting a rattle at start up at the front of the engine that goes away after a couple of seconds, that's a chain guide tensioner going out. Most likely the right side, although the left side being blown out won't really produce the rattle due to how it all works. You *can* let it go for a while... I went 170K on mine, silly me, but I paid for it dearly... after doing this fix after the right guide exploded, sending plastic bits into the oil pan, I'd suggest fixing it before the guide explodes. It's not *hard*, just a lot of things to do in a row. You want to avoid having to pull the oil pan out is all. Trust me. And most shops who see/hear this rattle will immediately start walking backwards and quoting you a new engine. The unfortunate side of the 4.6/5.4 3v engines. (Note: They're awesome motors. It's just they're complicated and time consuming to do timing/oil pumps on, and because of that, and the rest of anything they do to the motor/area to work on it, they would just rather swap the entire thing out. Less time, easier, and more guarantee it'll just work out the door.) (This is why I became the warranty and did it myself. 6-9K for the swap vs 2-3K for the parts and tools on a car that was apparently worth 4K or so, according to them, They, THOSE PEOPLE (KBB/NADA). Not counting the extra stuff I did because 'while there' happened. Totally worth, btw, experience and anti-skeert medicine.
)Pretty much all I can remember and that I've got saved away for reference. Most other stuff is odds and ends like a power seat switch that went out, or the trunk latch what goes BRRRRRT like an A10 Warthog's gatling gun... that sort of thing, just replace those as needed. If I missed something, I'm sure someone will show up to say 'yo, dude, what the entire heck?!'
And *all that said*... honestly, my '06 is the best car I've ever owned in all my many years. Warts and all.
The engine timing was the only thing I dreaded on this car... and now that I've done that, I am unafraid of *anything* on this car. It's just stuff. Although rebuilding the transmission or axle is going to be fun when (yes, when) it happens, but not just yet! She's still easily the very best, and I've had some really good ones. Overall, I highly recommend the S197s. The later ones with dual climate and all that entertainment futziness is a bit more complication than I like in a car, but if you want that stuff, go for it. In this case, the '07 with that miles is good stuff, but you might have a couple of things to address. Certainly suspension is going to be a thing coming up right off, I'd say.Hope that helps, and welcome to the forums!
/Um... all that to say "Yes, get it!"
//I'll be seriously surprised if ALL that is happening at once... but it won't surprise if one or two need to be looked at. I'd suspect suspension right off, honestly.
---
Edit, much later: Automagic transmissions weren't addressed up there. So here we go.
The 5R55S in the 4.6L S197s are pretty good, but they do have a solenoid pack that might have issues, and/or the solenoid bore/piston may or may not have a problem. One can be done in car (the solenoid pack), but the other may require the transmission out to fix. Go look up FordTechMakuLoco on Youtube and use the search '5r55' and you'll find his videos on the overall issues with this transmission family and what to do to fix 'em.
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