Body Work
#163
Bullitt Member
Join Date: February 24, 2007
Location: Harvest, AL
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I remember bouncing between different projects on the 65. Getting new upholstery, dashpad, buy parts, change mind sell parts, looking at all sorts of wheels and tires, stereos ... you might think about spending the money to get your paint on the car first then think about the finish and trim work. If your mom doesn't want you to have a V8 then consider putting a 4.0 V6. You can get your power and make mom happy too. In fact it is easier to do your mechanical before you even paint it. Get it mechanically sound and body the way you want it before you spend all of your cash on wheels, tires and other things. I drove around in primer forever then back tracked and took my 65 apart and it never went back together.
#165
Bullitt Member
Join Date: February 24, 2007
Location: Harvest, AL
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That is a pretty general statement.The I6 300 in it's prime produced more low end torque than a 302 in a truck however you aren't hauling a 1000 lbs in your trunk. You also have to consider the trade off of weight to power. You would have a cast iron block and head that weighed more than a 5.0 V8.
The 3.8 and the 4.0 are both very good engines. Ford continued improving the 4.0 when the went to the SOHC setup in the Explorer sometime in the 96 or 97 timeframe. They used the same basic 4.0 block with a jack shaft to drive the overhead cams. They kept improving the output of that engine then used it in the 2005-2010 Mustang. This engine will even drop into the SN95 with little or no structural mods. You just have to use the right configuration of motor mounts. You would of course have to have the harness and computer but the parts are plentiful and the engines are actually fairly inexpensive compared to a take out 4.6. Best of all it will fit under the hood.
Just consider all of your options when you do a swap. As mgreene said why replace it with another I6 if you are doing a swap. V6 or V8 makes much more sense. Or you could go for it all and do a 6.8 liter V10! Here are some specs on the different engines.
****
Mustang SN-95 to current
1994
3.8 OHV V6 (232 cid) engine rated at 145 hp (108 kW)
1996-1998
3.8 OHV V6 (232 cid) engine rated at 150 (112 kW)
1999-2004
3.8 OHV V6 (232 cid) engine rated at 193 hp (142 kW)
2005-2010
4.0 L SOHC V6 cast-iron block Power: 157 kW , 210 HP SAE @ 5,300 rpm; 240 ft lb , 325 Nm @ 3,500 rpm
4,009 cc 4.0 liters V 6 front engine with 100.4 mm bore, 84.4 mm stroke, 9.7 compression ratio, overhead cam and two valves per cylinder, Multi-point injection fuel system (same engine as Explorer 1996 and up)
2011
3.7L V6 to be rated at 305 horsepower & 280 ft.-lb.torque
The following are all truck specs
300 CID Straight-6 1980 117 hp (87 kW) 227 lb·ft (308 N·m) 1bbl
300 CID† Straight-6 1980 120 hp (89 kW) 229 lb·ft (310 N·m) 1bbl
300 CID Straight-6 1981-86 122 hp (91 kW) 255 lb·ft (346 N·m) 1bbl
302 CID Windsor V8 1980-85 133 hp (99 kW) 233 lb·ft (316 N·m) 2bbl
302 CID Windsor V8 1985-86 185 hp (138 kW) 270 lb·ft (366 N·m) EFI
The 3.8 and the 4.0 are both very good engines. Ford continued improving the 4.0 when the went to the SOHC setup in the Explorer sometime in the 96 or 97 timeframe. They used the same basic 4.0 block with a jack shaft to drive the overhead cams. They kept improving the output of that engine then used it in the 2005-2010 Mustang. This engine will even drop into the SN95 with little or no structural mods. You just have to use the right configuration of motor mounts. You would of course have to have the harness and computer but the parts are plentiful and the engines are actually fairly inexpensive compared to a take out 4.6. Best of all it will fit under the hood.
Just consider all of your options when you do a swap. As mgreene said why replace it with another I6 if you are doing a swap. V6 or V8 makes much more sense. Or you could go for it all and do a 6.8 liter V10! Here are some specs on the different engines.
****
Mustang SN-95 to current
1994
3.8 OHV V6 (232 cid) engine rated at 145 hp (108 kW)
1996-1998
3.8 OHV V6 (232 cid) engine rated at 150 (112 kW)
1999-2004
3.8 OHV V6 (232 cid) engine rated at 193 hp (142 kW)
2005-2010
4.0 L SOHC V6 cast-iron block Power: 157 kW , 210 HP SAE @ 5,300 rpm; 240 ft lb , 325 Nm @ 3,500 rpm
4,009 cc 4.0 liters V 6 front engine with 100.4 mm bore, 84.4 mm stroke, 9.7 compression ratio, overhead cam and two valves per cylinder, Multi-point injection fuel system (same engine as Explorer 1996 and up)
2011
3.7L V6 to be rated at 305 horsepower & 280 ft.-lb.torque
The following are all truck specs
300 CID Straight-6 1980 117 hp (87 kW) 227 lb·ft (308 N·m) 1bbl
300 CID† Straight-6 1980 120 hp (89 kW) 229 lb·ft (310 N·m) 1bbl
300 CID Straight-6 1981-86 122 hp (91 kW) 255 lb·ft (346 N·m) 1bbl
302 CID Windsor V8 1980-85 133 hp (99 kW) 233 lb·ft (316 N·m) 2bbl
302 CID Windsor V8 1985-86 185 hp (138 kW) 270 lb·ft (366 N·m) EFI
Last edited by garagewear; 12/15/09 at 03:53 PM.
#167
Bullitt Member
Join Date: February 24, 2007
Location: Harvest, AL
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Now you are thinking! First do a base conversion then come back later and change to the stroker motor. Work out all of the installation with a salvage take out. Keep your cost down, figure out all the wiring and tidy things up then do the stroker when it is time to rebuild.
#169
hey jake, find an old u-haul van with a v10 for sale and i will help you do the swap. your mom said no v8, we dont need to tell her its a v10
just tell her no mom , it is not a v8 swap,
just tell her no mom , it is not a v8 swap,
#171
Super Boss Lawman Member
Thread Starter
2 possibilities for rims.
16x7.5 Silver Shelby Razors 5.8" backspacing so I would have to run a 1 1/4" spacer.
or
17x8 and 17x9 Anthracite Classic Series(similar to bullitts) wheels. I don't know backspacing on these yet, I haven't gotten an email back.
Which set would look better?
16x7.5 Silver Shelby Razors 5.8" backspacing so I would have to run a 1 1/4" spacer.
or
17x8 and 17x9 Anthracite Classic Series(similar to bullitts) wheels. I don't know backspacing on these yet, I haven't gotten an email back.
Which set would look better?
Last edited by BA Mustang; 12/17/09 at 10:27 PM.
#172
Bullitt Member
Join Date: February 24, 2007
Location: Harvest, AL
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#174
Super Boss Lawman Member
Thread Starter
Finalized rim choice tonight. So in about 2-3 weeks my Cragars will be for sale.
17x8 front and 17x9.5 rear
17x8 front and 17x9.5 rear
Last edited by BA Mustang; 12/18/09 at 07:38 PM.
#175
Cobra Member
#176
Bullitt Member
Join Date: February 24, 2007
Location: Harvest, AL
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check these tires out. It might save you some cash. New Falkens for $225/4 of them.
http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/1515725539.html
http://nashville.craigslist.org/pts/1515725539.html
#177
Super Boss Lawman Member
Thread Starter
#178
Cobra Member
Are these the 10 spoke circle track looking wheels that are on the 1st page of your gallery? I see the chrome Cragars as well. kennyg