What should 2007-2009 GT500 owners know? Clutch TSB / Tires
 

My Pops just picked up a mint 2007 GT500 with ~5,600. The car is amazing...he's really enjoying it.

The only mods that I can find are the Ford Motorsports shifter and the Shelby KR Axle-back(?). The car has an X-Pipe but I gather that this is stock?

What does a GT500 need to know? Are there any failure prone aspects to these cars? Are there any must-do mods?

It has the OEM Goodyear F1s (which are obviously quite old by now) with plenty of tread left...what's the preferred replacement tire? Do you guys stay with the 255s in the front or match with 285s all around?

Any basic info would be hugely appreciated!

-Mike

The clutch is probably pre-TSB so that will need to be swapped. He can find out maybe from the seller, but if it "hisses" when he engages/disengages the clutch it's the old-style clutch.

He can leave it in, but if it were my car I wouldn't.

The newer clutches are easier to drive and they don't have problems with the flywheel warping, which is why the 07-09 clutches were revised over and over again.

Item Description Fulfillment Price Per Item Quantity Subtotal SLEEVE
Part #: F6ZZ7600A
Pack Qty: 1 Shippable $13.20
Remove $13.20 CYLINDER ASY - CLUTCH SLAVE
Part #: AR3Z7A508A
Pack Qty: 1 Shippable $221.81
Remove $221.81 BOLT
Part #: N808969S100
Pack Qty: 6 Shippable $22.00
Remove $22.00 FLYWHEEL ASY
Part #: AR3Z6375A
Pack Qty: 1 Shippable $253.60
Remove $253.60 CLUTCH ASY
Part #: CR3Z7B546A
Pack Qty: 1 Shippable $601.20
Remove $601.20 LUBRICANT - TEFLON
Part #: XG8
Pack Qty: 1 Shippable $7.92
Remove $7.92 TUBE
Part #: AR3Z7A512A
Pack Qty: 1 Shippable $76.81
Remove $76.81 FLUID - BRAKE
Part #: PM1C
Pack Qty: 1 Shippable $4.78
Remove $4.78 BOLT - HEX.HEAD
Part #: F6ZZ6379AA
Pack Qty: 3 Shippable $11.17
Remove $33.51




Posted Image
Parts Subtotal: $1,234.83 Total: $1,234.83



The harmonic balancer on the '07 is extremely heavy and was re-designed for the '08 and up models.

I'd definitely swap that... it's necessary if you do a blower upgrade. Some don't with the stock blower, but if it was my car I'd do the swap for peace of mind.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-d...08&model=GT500

Other than those two things there are no issues that I've had with my car... it's an AWESOME car!

If he is going to do a supercharger upgrade of any kind I would upgrade the heat exchanger... even without a supercharger upgrade the heat exchanger is pretty tiny and can be prone to heat soak.

I installed the C&R heat exchanger but VMP also has a good one it seems.

I don't have the stock wheels on mine so can't help out with tire sizes on those, but I'm running Michelin Pilot Super Sports and love them :)

THANK YOU!!
I should have checked back sooner.
Awesome info...hugely appreciated.

We both were wondering about that hissing clutch.
Is it a failure point or just an annoyance? I assume that the flywheel warp could be a real problem...

My pleasure.

The clutch is fine as long as you don't get into any "stop-and-go" traffic.

The real problem is the flywheel.

It's nodular iron and it retains too much heat causing it to warp.

Once it warps the clutch can't fully disengage and then you have serious issues.

Like I say, if it were mine (and I just bought my GT500 with the old style clutch) I'd swap it... because I did :)

It's a pain, but it's a lot less expensive that having transmission problems which many have had.

I know this is an older thread, but I’m just wandering if any new problems have risen from the clutch issue. I have read where many owners agree that there were clutch issues and even a TSB to replace it.

thanks, Donnie (STMPD1)

Some Low Mileage Cars Never Had The TSB Done. Working At The Dealer and Knowing About it I Had Mine Done. A Check of the Warranty History By Any Dealer Can Show if it Was Done Under Warranty. Now if It Was Done Under a Customer Pay Repair It Would Not Show. It's An Expensive Deal With The Transmission Having To Be Worked on As Well. I'm Wondering If Going Aftermarket Clutch Would Be a Better Way To Go. I'm Just Throwing That Out There. It's Been a Lot Of Years Since The Topic Was Fresh in the Noodle!

TSB
10-3-8 SHELBY GT500 - CLUTCH DRAG

Publication Date: February 12, 2010

FORD: 2007-2009 Mustang


This article supersedes TSB 09-19-11 to remove the production fix date, update the Service Procedure and Part List.

ISSUE:
Some 2007-2009 Mustang Shelby GT500 vehicles may exhibit the following clutch/transmission symptoms: hard to disengage or engage 1st and reverse, hard to shift all gears, vehicle creeps with transmission in gear and clutch pedal fully depressed without brake pedal application. These symptoms may be caused by the clutch not disengaging fully when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. This may be due to flywheel distortion caused by excessive heat build-up during unique traffic conditions (example: severe stop/go urban driving, excessive clutch slipping). The clutch system is designed for performance driving conditions.

ACTION:
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

Located at the end of the procedure are Figures 1, 2 and 3 which show the typical appearance of a flywheel and clutch that has been damaged due to overheating of the clutch. Figures 4, 5 and 6 show the typical appearance of a good flywheel and clutch.

This procedure does not apply to or correct the normal characteristics of the twin-disc cera-metallic clutch used in the Shelby GT500 vehicle or normal wear. The twin disc cera-metallic clutch incorporates racing technology to combine a low inertia assembly with a very durable friction material with high torque capability. Depending on your driving technique, the smoothness of how the clutch reacts to clutch engagements may be different from other vehicles that use a single disc clutch system. Also refer to pages 8 and 9 of the GT500 Owner Guide Supplement for additional information.

Normal Operating Characteristics Of The Twin Disc Cera-metallic Clutch

Clutch chatter/shudder when engaging the clutch.
Narrow or abrupt engagement point.
Hiss upon clutch engagement or disengagement.
Transmission gear rollover noise at idle.
Gear rattle noise at very low speeds when in 1st or 2nd gear.
Normal wear.
Diagnosis And Service Procedure Update

Based on engineering analysis of all of the returned transmission components replaced when performing the prior TSBs, it has been determined that the synchronizer assemblies and transmission input shafts do not exhibit any abnormal wear that would require transmission component replacements.

A diagnostic procedure has been developed to confirm that the transmission synchronizers are operating properly and prevent any unnecessary transmission repairs.

Transmission Synchronizer Diagnosis Procedure

The following procedure is to be used to determine if the synchronizer assemblies in the transmission may have been damaged by attempting to operate the vehicle with a dragging clutch.

Set parking brake.
Transmission in neutral.
Start engine and allow it to idle.
Clutch engaged - pedal fully released.
Attempt to shift transmission into first gear by firmly pushing shift lever approximately 5-10 lb-ft (22-45 N-m) force for 2-3 seconds.
If the synchronizers are okay, the transmission will not make any clash or grinding noise. You will not be able to move the gearshift lever into the selected gear (the synchronizer will block out gear engagement) and the engine RPM will decrease slightly.
Repeat the synchronizer test (Step 5 and 6) on all of the other forward gears.
If the transmission passes the synchronizer test, the transmission will not require additional service; proceed with clutch/flywheel replacement only. Refer to Clutch Replacement procedure.
If clash/grinding noise is found when performing the synchronizer diagnostic, the transmission will need to be repaired along with the replacement of the clutch. Refer to Transmission Repair procedure.

Clutch Replacement

Remove the transmission per 2010 Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 308-03C.
Remove and replace flywheel per 2010 WSM, Section 303-01C. Discard old bolts and use new bolts.
Install new pilot bearing per 2010 WSM, Section 308-01.
Install new clutch disc and plate assembly per 2010 WSM, Section 308-01. Using new bolts.
Apply a small amount of Motorcraft® PTFE Lubricant to the clutch hub splines per 2010 WSM, Section 308-01.
Install new clutch slave cylinder and hydraulic line per 2010 WSM, Section 308-02.
Install the transmission per 2010 WSM, Section 308-03C.
Refer to Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reprogramming.
Transmission Repair

Remove, drain, disassemble and clean the transmission per 2010 WSM, Section 308-03C.
Remove and replace input shaft and all synchronizer assemblies per 2010 WSM, Section 308-03C.
Assemble the transmission per 2010 WSM, Section 308-03C.
Install the transmission per 2010 WSM, Section 308-03C.
Refer to PCM Reprogramming.
PCM Reprogramming

The PCM must be reprogrammed after the clutch is replaced. Reprogram the PCM to the latest calibration using IDS release 65.07 and higher. This new calibration is not included in the VCM 2010.1 DVD. Calibration files may also be obtained at www.motorcraft.com.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
AR3Z-6375-A Flywheel
AR3Z-7B546-A Clutch
7R3Z-7C391-B Transmission Kit
XG-8 Motorcraft® PTFE Lubricant
XT-5-QM Motorcraft® MERCON® V Automatic Transmission Fluid
PM-1-C Motorcraft® High Performance DOT 3 Motor Vehicle Brake Fluid
XG-1-C Motorcraft® Premium Long-Life Grease
TA-30 Motorcraft® Silicone Gasket and Sealant
TA-25 Motorcraft® Threadlock and Sealer
F6ZZ-7600-A Pilot Bearing
1R3Z-7052-AA Transmission Input Shaft Oil Seal
AR3Z-7A508-A Clutch Slave Cylinder
AR3Z-7A512-A Clutch Slave Tube
N808969-S100 Clutch Bolt (6 required)
F6ZZ-6379-AA Flywheel Bolt (8 required)



WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
IMPORTANT: Warranty coverage limits/policies are not altered by a TSB. Warranty coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part.

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
100308A 2007-2009 Mustang GT500: Replace The Clutch Disc And Plate Assembly; Pilot Bearing, Slave Cylinder And Flywheel. Includes Time To Remove And Install Transmission, Perform The Synchronizer Diagnosis, And Reprogram The PCM (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 4.2 Hrs.
100308B 2007-2009 Mustang GT500: Replace The Input Shaft; Synchronizer Assemblies, Clutch Disc And Plate Assembly; Pilot Bearing, Slave Cylinder And Flywheel. Includes Time To Remove And Install Transmission, Perform The Synchronizer Diagnosis, And Reprogram The PCM (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations)

You Can Check If the Parts Are Currently Available Here at This Link. You Could Also Call Your Local Dealer and Ask What The Total Cost is and Have Them Make Sure Parts Are Still Available.

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/

KC

Well…thanks again!!

I hope I am able to get back to the informational posts whenever I come to point where I need to 😂😁‼️.

I really do appreciate you taking the time to share. I’ll be an expert in no time!! I have a lot to think about when I finally buy one 🤣😂‼️‼️

always appreciative,

Donnie (STMPD1)

Note, I See Post two Lists Later Part Number Clutch. TSB is 2010 Part Number His is 2013 Part Number. Realize TSB is From 2010. Maybe The Way To Go! TSB Does Show You How to How to Test Syncro Issues. Also Other Poster Does Not Mention ECM Update! Questions Questions!

Here is a Guy With Real world Experience With the Different Clutches!

https://www.capitalareacobraclub.com...acement.13403/



KC

Now After Research I Realize I Had First TSB Done on My car 8-16-04 Which is Not The Latest & Greatest By Any Means! DOH!

Lots of good info. I like where he said, “If you go buy one [07-09 GT500], ask if it had the 2010 upgrade”.
To me, that is valuable info to keep in mind.

Thanks, (STMPD1)

The Beauty of The Process is We All Learn From The Questions Presented. Now If My Clutch Ever Goes South I Got Some Direction To Go! As Little as I Drive it It Will Likely Outlast me! :hmm: I'm Still Catching Up Myself on Things as I Was Not on Here Much For 10-12 Years until Last Year or So!

While I'm Thinking About it Realize Those Red Appearance Cars are Far More Elusive Than Say a White With Blue Stripes So Be Advised Only So Many of Those Out There To Choose From!

KC

I understand taking a break! I had to take one from my Smoker forum ( I smoke meat and make bbq, etc).

The white/red stripes ones that I have found are usually low mile and a little more expensive, but also look to be usually one owner and garage kept. ( Just my luck - I am attracted to the ‘more expensive’ ). But, that is one reason I want red on white.

one I have my eye on is:

vin # 1ZVHT88S675359894

Build # 7383 of 8152 coupes
#2011 of 2252 Performance White

i wonder how many had the Red Appearance Pkg?? This one has 11k miles for $42900. On Edmunds.com

Thanks again,

Donnie (STMPD1)

:nice: