ireallycare

I want to pre-order a 2011 V6 with the Performance and Security Packages.

I have never purchased a new car before (I'm turning 22), and the idea of pre-ordering is even more foreign to me. I have a few questions and I was wondering if anyone could help me out a bit.

1.) When you pre-order a car, the price isn't "set" until the car arrives? That appears to be the case from the comments I've read. How does that make sense? If there isn't an agreed price, why would someone preorder a car? Couldn't the dealer just increase the price after you've made a deposit?

2.) I'm looking to pay as little as possible (who isn't?), so I'm assuming invoice. I've always thought that pre-ordering would incur extra costs, from what I'm reading, it doesn't appear to be true. Could I get a definite answer?

3.) How did you guys haggle, and what prices did you get? The best deal I've seen was invoice + $200 holdback from dealer on GT I believe. But then again, I thought a price isn't set until delivery? I am currently in communication with my local dealer through e-mails. Is it better to haggle over e-mail or in person? (I'm not a great liar)

4.) I have a 1993 Mercedes E420 to trade in. Only about 110,000 miles, and exterior in decent condition. Should I get the dealer to set on a deal before telling him/her that I have a trade-in? Does it matter?

What about the brochure rebate? Should I get the dealer to the lowest price before busting it out?

This is all that's confusing me right now.

Short version: Is it possible to get the dealer to commit to a price before pre-ordering, or must I wait until car delivery? What if the dealer tells me a price, and when car arrives, the agreed price has gone up?

Thanks for any responses. I've searched online and this forum, but no luck.

Lancel

1) Dunno how everyone does it, but I agreed on a price when I put in the order and made the deposit. It was little more than a paper agreement and a deposit, the paperwork and financing will come when the car is actually on their lot. Just keep in mind that if they try to cheat you with a dirty tactic like that when the car gets there, you can still walk. They can't keep your deposit, and don't let them say otherwise, but hopefully you won't have to deal with that.

2) I was kind of puzzled by this as well. I can only guess that because the dealer can just throw down an extra order that they know will sell that they're much more lenient. It also depends on the dealer. Like everything, shop around. Chances are the deal is out there.

3) I personally used a car buying service quote and found a dealer nearby that apparently signed up saying they guaranteed that price, and that was I think 250 below invoice. The dealer cut off a smidge past that for whatever reason (Maybe so they didn't have to give a cut, I don't know, but I'm not saying anything ). That basically just set the deal up right there. Finding the right dealer is a big part of it.

4) Don't see that it would hurt, but probably they'll just make a note and then assess it when both cars are on the lot and you're ready to seal the deal.

Short version: Yes, you should be able to get them to agree on a price, especially if you're making a deposit on it. As for the brochure rebate, my impression is it's no sweat off their backs, Ford will reimburse the dealer.

And a quick note, the V6 Performance Package isn't officially out yet, so you've got plenty of time to figure this out. The dealers will know if they are able to order it yet. Just if they say they can, make sure you get a printed copy of your order confirmation.

corvettedreamin

When you fill out the buyers order you are agreeing on a price. Then, any incentives at the time of the actual sale are included.

If you have x-plan, there is no haggling. Buying services are next. They're essentially an agreed upon price. But watch out for the doc fees. X-plan limits these but internet buying does not. They can be several hundred dollars.

A dealer with a good Internet business will give you a solid quote online.

In most cases, you're better off selling your car outright. Think thousands, not hundreds. I haven't traded a car in since 1994. But always negotiate price before the trade-in so you know exactly what you're paying. And don't buy a new car based on the "payment" you can afford. Just get the total. Be ready to have your own financing in case they pull the ol' switcheroo on the financing terms (they make money on financing too and it can significantly impact your payment.)

As for the brochure rebate, yeah, I like to hold that card until the last minute but a smart dealer will check during negotiations when he "talks to his manager". He'll pull up the Vincent system and punch in your last name and zip code and see if you have any other incentives/offers. With x-plan, they have to give it to you anyway.

wannabe

I talked to two dealers who wanted a deposit to order, but wouldn't commit to price until delivery. Not just what rebates/etc might be involved... no talk of price period until the vehicle was delivered. That was one of the several reasons I went with the '10.

corvettedreamin

You didn't fill out a buyer's order? Or were you just in the negotiation phase? If a dealer told me that, I'd be like "Cool. And if it comes in and I don't like your price other dealers will have them on the lots by then and I'll go buy one from someone else." My dealer originally wanted $1k for a deposit. I told him hell no and offered $500. Probably still a little high.

It's bothersome that dealers are so inconsistent in their practices.

Karpro

ireallycare:

1. Not only should you get a firm price in writing but you should make sure you are price protected against any price increases from Ford between order and delivery. If your dealer won't do this move on.

2. Ordering a car shouldn't be more expensive. The dealer incurs virtually no carrying costs because the car comes in and goes right out. As far as pricing in relation to invoice that will depend on the individual dealer. I am at $300 under invoice at my store, Jeff is at either invoice or a couple hundred over if I recall. Talk to your dealer, if you can't get your deal from them move on, one of us would be happy to help you.

3. You shouldn't need to be a good liar. You shouldn't be lying to your dealer and they shouldn't be lying to you. If either is going on then you are probably talking to the wrong dealer. As far as email versus phone versus face to face it shouldn't matter. All three methods should be able to answer the only question that will ultimately matter, "how much?".

4. You should get a firm price on the car before involving the trade. Honestly it is an almost 20 year old Mercedes, you shouldn't be trading it anyway. Your dealer is going to ship it to the auction for wholesale value. You should be selling that car privately to maximize that side of the equation.

As for "busting out" the brochure rebate the dealer shouldn't care one way or another. That money comes directly from Ford and has no effect on the dealer. As a matter of fact, it should make the dealer happy because it saves you money which makes you a happier customer and costs him nothing.

05fordgt

Also bud, the V6 Perfornance Package isn't available just yet. Going to be a Job#2 item so you may want to wait a little bit if you want it.

Ltngdrvr

Jeff, any ideas when that might be?

05fordgt

I'm hoping sometime like late July as that's usually when the factories take their 2-week break. I need to know as my friend in Jersey wants a 2011 Yellow Blaze GT and so does a certain forum member who owns a 997 in Yellow!!!

2011 Fastback

Price isn't set, I ordered my 5.0 in Jan and waited until recently to get pricing from other dealers, I wnt back to the ordered dealer and showed them what the other ones could do, and they agreed. I only did this since in Jan it was hard to get a "deal" price without leverage, now you can have leverage since the cars are showing up....hope this helps...

ireallycare

Thanks for the responses, guys.

Gene K

Also if you cant make a deal with a local dealer it doesnt really matter. You can order from any dealer in the country and Ford will ship the car to any dealer you want. They get paid by Ford to do the dealer prep. I would not go out of my way to do this but you are not obligated to pay thousands more just because a dealer is local. In most cases the order issues are salesman that are worried about Fridays Check instead of management at the dealer.

$300 Under Invoice (+ any rebates at time of delivery) is about where the best deals are. One guy got $410 under but that was on a pretty much totally maxed out car ($40,000+ MSRP). Go in explain to the sales manager (I rarely deal with salesmen, I just tell the manager to give the commission to whoever is hungrier) where you are at but you would like to deal locally if he can match the deal. If not, no problem, maybe next time. Make sure the deal includes the Doc Fee and and Adm Fee (Some dealers charge both). $300 Under Invoice + $400 Doc Fee is not $300 under its $100 over. Be firm but polite. Its a business deal. It either works or it doesnt. You will have to pay Tax + Title in addition but thats a state issue the dealer really has little to do with.

If all else fails their are some nice professionals on this site and others who Im sure will be happy to take care of you at a very fair price including a couple who posted here.

ireallycare

Thanks so much. Does anyone know the invoice price of the Performance Pkg? It's listed at $1995

Ltngdrvr

According to Jeff (05fordgt) the dealer prep has to be paid for by the buyer and the amount is arranged for by the ordering dealer and added into the deal. It is not paid for by Ford.

Ltngdrvr

I believe invoice is just under $1700 and invoice plus holdback is just under $1750.

05fordgt

That is correct. If I sell a car and have it drop-shipped to a dealer for pickup, I would get the prep fee but that dealer will not get anything. They won't prep a car for free. They have to get paid for it.

Daniocal

Okay now I'm confused and just want to clarify. Everything I read online including Consumer Reports says that the buyer should never pay the dealer prep fee. The above quote makes it sound like if you order from one dealer and ship it elsewhere for delivery that the ordering dealer gets to keep the dealer prep money paid by Ford, even though they're not prepping it and the buyer then has to pay the dealer prep at the dealership where you pick up the car. Is that correct or does the ordering dealer transfer the prep money to the dealer that's actually doing the prep?