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Looking good there Burton. Have to start calling that the Garagmahal... Pretty nice setup. And yes no matter how big it is never enough.
Thanks Shane! And yes, I already call it the Garaj Mahal... I even had a sign made (posted earlier in this thread). It is my castle, my palace, indeed.
Alright... today is another momentous day in the Garaj Mahal saga.
Over the weekend, my beloved wife gave me the green light to go ahead and purchase my lift. The decision to go ahead and do it came after careful analysis of whether or not I should get my 2nd toy car first, or the lift first. I/we decided that it would be smartest to prioritize the lift first, because it would solidify any concerns I would have for vehicle storage. In other words, I'd need a good place to STORE the next toy BEFORE I buy the said toy. LOL. Amazing how common sense works.
Additionally, this is also going to be a "combined" christmas and birthday gift - since I turn 40 this year. No new toy, just yet, but this lift should hold me over.
Needless to say, because of the impact to the toy funds, I will have to delay the toy car purchase till potentially latter next year instead of early next year But hey, it will be best in the long run I think. Besides, the LONGER I wait, the bigger, better, badder toy I can get. 2018 or 19 Shelby???
Sooooooo..... I placed the order today for this baby.
It's a BendPak HD-9XW.
I decided to go with that specific brand/model for the following reasons:
- height and width.
If you notice on the spec, it has the largest "beneath runway clearance" of any other similar model in that config, out there. In other words, I can park a truck or an SUV on top of another truck or an SUV. I was looking at Revolution or Rotary for example, but their clearance underneath is only 68", with no Tall option. Greg Smith had their Atlas Tall version, but only came with a 78 or 79" I believe...
Width-wise, I have the ability to adjust from a narrow/standard setting to a wide setting - a difference of 7". Why is that important? Because in the future, if I get a wide vehicle like a Z06 or a big pickup truck or SUV (not that I would ever), I can actually use my lift. All my current vehicles, including Quincy my QX60 SUV, should fit on the narrow setting. But it's nice to have that option.
- safety features
The other lifts, like the Atlas GarageProo 8000 or 9000 EXT L's, for example, don't require compressed air. In the BendPak design, it requires 75-90CFM of air to engage and disengage the locks during raising and lowering. I'm not 100% sure on this, but my buddy with an Atlas (which I've seen and used) has a separate level for retracting the safety stops, relying on the motor/hydraulic fluid alone.
Needless to say, I'd rather err on the safety side.
- 220 V
I purposely designed and built my garage around having 220V outlets for my lift and other things (besides my 20 other 110V outlets). The Atlas and some other brands operated on 110V. It's great for convenience and for those without the means to go 220. I do. And I am going to use it. The HD-9XW requires a 25-30A breaker, which I already have in place. I just need to have my electrician finish the plug on the lift pigtail, and install the corresponding outlet on the wall. Voila. Results - faster raising of lift rather than the piddly 110V raising. Who doesn't want THAT? lol
- BendPak name
Yes, I know that most lifts are now made in China. BendPak's are too... well, they're assembled in China but designed here in the US, and I believe the components are also all from US... not cheap steel. The other brands are the opposite. There are some that are the real cream of the crop, Rotary lifts for example - but that leads to the next reason below:
- cost
The brand and model I selected had the best blend of all the above MIR's. With the amount of use I'd be doing with it (i.e. occasional lifting and lowering for parking/access, and working on vehicles), I knew I wouldn't be in a shop environment where I'd be lifting and lowering the lift on a daily basis. The Rotary brand will cost 2x as much, and would be overkill for my needs.
Additionally, the BendPak (vs the equivalent Atlas or other) is also ALI certified. A full 9000lb capacity, versus the 8000 for the Atlas non certified. I can get a 9000 certified for the Atlas, but it will cost more than the BendPak.
So for the better features, quality, and safety of the BendPak? It was a no brainer.
I also decided to get the lift professionally installed too - instead of having buddies with beer do it with me on a weekend. Why? SAFETY. Though mechanically inclined, I'll be going under there a LOT. Maybe my kids even, as they grow up and I show them how to work on things. I don't want ANY chance of that lift falling on us. Not worth it. Also, it could damage my precious other babies - Marilyn and other vehicles. No way Jose. It will also be fully warrantied, for any install issues - and I'd be using a local shop to do so.
Easy decision for me.
There you have it. My latest updates. The install will occur end of Sept/early Oct. I CANNOT WAIT. I'll take the day off and film the whole darn thing. I'll keep you guys posted.
Oh another thing... remember when I updated my lights in my garage? Well - my wife is buying into the idea, so she gave me the green, or should I say WHITE light (pun intended) to update my exterior lights. They are now 60W 5000K LED's. So much better coming home to these. I also installed an automatic programmable switch that turns it all on from night to dawn.
Nice choice
Think it's the same as mine
You will be wanting do something about the approach ramps. First of all they are too steep for the front end of any kind of lowered mustang. I actually removed mine because I did run into them with my head a few times and replaced them with some cribs types especially made for lifts. I'll get a picture when I'm home.
And lastly if you ever buy a 'project' car or make repairs or installs that take you weeks to get to the lift is useless for all the other cars while it's up there. I've learned this. It sucks doing an oil change on a car in the garage when you have a perfectly good lift occupied by a car with a leaking fuel cell that has taken you more than 6 months to get to in order to replace it.
Great update, congrats on the lift Burton. Lights look great too
Originally Posted by Stage_3
Awesome stuff Burton!
Congrats man.
Originally Posted by Mustang Freak
Originally Posted by shaneyusa
Very nice! I like...
Originally Posted by carfreak666
Sweet
Thanks a lot guys!!! Yeah this is a big deal for me. I've always wanted one and this has been one of my dream purchases for a long while now - secondary to another car. I can't wait to get them in.
Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs
Nice choice
Think it's the same as mine
You will be wanting do something about the approach ramps. First of all they are too steep for the front end of any kind of lowered mustang. I actually removed mine because I did run into them with my head a few times and replaced them with some cribs types especially made for lifts. I'll get a picture when I'm home.
And lastly if you ever buy a 'project' car or make repairs or installs that take you weeks to get to the lift is useless for all the other cars while it's up there. I've learned this. It sucks doing an oil change on a car in the garage when you have a perfectly good lift occupied by a car with a leaking fuel cell that has taken you more than 6 months to get to in order to replace it.
Thanks man!
So what do you mean by the approach ramps having to be removed? Don't they allow removal? or is it permanently attached to the runway? Hmmmm I will need to look into that. It should have 82" of clearance, and since I'm probably not as tall as you, hopefully I won't run into them.
Your comment about the ramps being too steep concerns me though. Yes, I am lowered... and if I get a Dodge Viper or Z06 or whatever, that will be lowered too. Maybe they make a longer/lower one? What do you recommend that will fit on the BendPak?
The approach ramps can easily be removed each time. The only thing is that they are a little heavy so if you get lazy they hang down quite a bit while the loft is up. Sometimes I would leave them on and forget they were there. As far as the runners id say I have about 78" of clearance at the height at position from the floor.
I have stored the ramps that came with it and now I use these race ramps. They are light weight and i store them when not in use. I usually just lay them on the runners under the car unless I'm actually working on the car.
With these I have never had a problem with the approach. I can even drive the R on the lift with the front splitter attached which scrapes on everything usually.
I'm not sure on model number but I did get them from them online. My suggestion would be to get your lift and install it and then measure the height of the runners at the approach ramp from the floor and find the one that works best. Race ramps is really cool because there details show the angle of approach for each one of their products. But generally the longer they are the better the angle. I would say your lift is the exact same model as mine but I don't know if they changed anything in the runners and the height or amount of steel etc.
Also I would add that when you put a car or park a car on the lift it's best to put the weight towards the posts whether they be from or back. I think the R has like a 56/44 weight distribution so I make sure the front of the car is as close to each end as possible or reasonable. The lift has a percentage weight capacity based upon where you are on the runner. If all the weight is in the middle between the posts (not that it ever could be in a 4 wheel car) then the lift capacity is reduced quite a bit. I suppose this has to do with them not wanting the runners to flex and sag. So especially with storage I make sure the majority of weight is near the posts. Also if you ever get the rolling pneumatic lift jacks they clearly say they should be stored at the ends of the lift. Some have complained about sag in their runners but after 6 years I definitely don't have anything like that not even with a car on it.
Last thing is when you install if doing yourself, and I think I've said this before, be very mindful of the level of what looks like a ladder in each of your posts. It allows for adjustment up and down slightly inside the post so you can keep your runners exactly level. You'll see it when you start installing it. The post bases don't have to be level as you can make up for it with the ladders adjustment. But it's easier to do when you install than to go back later.
You'll also need an air compressor. It is what releases the safeties. You don't have to have a big tank as it doesn't take much. While my compressor was broke for a while I used a little portable one. But you have to have one. And they want you to run it thru a dryer and oiler which I do before it enters the lift. To keep corrosion from happening of course.
I'm not sure on model number but I did get them from them online. My suggestion would be to get your lift and install it and then measure the height of the runners at the approach ramp from the floor and find the one that works best. Race ramps is really cool because there details show the angle of approach for each one of their products. But generally the longer they are the better the angle. I would say your lift is the exact same model as mine but I don't know if they changed anything in the runners and the height or amount of steel etc.
Also I would add that when you put a car or park a car on the lift it's best to put the weight towards the posts whether they be from or back. I think the R has like a 56/44 weight distribution so I make sure the front of the car is as close to each end as possible or reasonable. The lift has a percentage weight capacity based upon where you are on the runner. If all the weight is in the middle between the posts (not that it ever could be in a 4 wheel car) then the lift capacity is reduced quite a bit. I suppose this has to do with them not wanting the runners to flex and sag. So especially with storage I make sure the majority of weight is near the posts. Also if you ever get the rolling pneumatic lift jacks they clearly say they should be stored at the ends of the lift. Some have complained about sag in their runners but after 6 years I definitely don't have anything like that not even with a car on it.
Last thing is when you install if doing yourself, and I think I've said this before, be very mindful of the level of what looks like a ladder in each of your posts. It allows for adjustment up and down slightly inside the post so you can keep your runners exactly level. You'll see it when you start installing it. The post bases don't have to be level as you can make up for it with the ladders adjustment. But it's easier to do when you install than to go back later.
You'll also need an air compressor. It is what releases the safeties. You don't have to have a big tank as it doesn't take much. While my compressor was broke for a while I used a little portable one. But you have to have one. And they want you to run it thru a dryer and oiler which I do before it enters the lift. To keep corrosion from happening of course.
Forgot to say thank you much for the links and the info. When I get the lift in, I will test out the ramp setup and determine if I need to swap out ramps.
Meanwhile, on that news, a tentative install date is set for 10/5, then 10/6 for electrical. That's coming up soon!
Forgot to say thank you much for the links and the info. When I get the lift in, I will test out the ramp setup and determine if I need to swap out ramps.
Meanwhile, on that news, a tentative install date is set for 10/5, then 10/6 for electrical. That's coming up soon!
Yeah HELL NO... I don't even own a truck to haul the package for delivery, nor do I trust myself to put up that lift perfectly, for me and my sons to walk under there without fear of losing our lives.
UPDATE!!!
The installation is SET for tomorrow 9/29 between 8 am and 2 pm. I also have the Electricians all booked as well, to come in before 2 pm to finish the electrical plug/outlet work.
In other words, if all goes well, I should have a working lift by tomorrow night!!!
My regular electrician was not available till early next week, so I made the decision to go with another company to finish the install. I waited 20 years for my lift, I REFUSE to wait another few days to get my lift working. I can't even IMAGINE going through this whole weekend with a lift in my garage, and NOT being able to use it. Ummm... HELL NO.
Since I got the call yesterday from the installers that my lift was ready to install tomorrow instead of next week, I "had" to take tomorrow off I plan to either take time lapse videos, or just put my Nikon on a tripod and go out every 15 minutes to take a photo from the same spot, then combine them all into a video.
This will be epic. Truly epic. In case you can't tell, I'm extremely excited.
8/28/17, 07:14 AM
But hey, it will be best in the long run I think. Besides, the LONGER I wait, the bigger, better, badder toy I can get. 2018 or 19 Shelby??? 
I'll keep you guys posted.
I plan to either take time lapse videos, or just put my Nikon on a tripod and go out every 15 minutes to take a photo from the same spot, then combine them all into a video.
