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Old 10/4/16, 03:58 PM   #1
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Marilyn's (potential) new Stable (i.e. garage)

Reason why I haven't been posting much - we have been busy looking into building a new home. Been working with the architect to finalize plans. It's fun to tweak things here and there and make it your own.

So... the reason why it pertains to this thread/forum/mustangs is, well, I get to give Marilyn (and her future friends - hoping to get a used Viper or M3 in the near future) the throne and stable she/they deserve.

I got to customize the garage!!! I wanted your opinions to see if I am missing anything, or do I have the majority of it thought out. We sign paperwork probably this week, but more likely next week.

The info:

- 3 car wide garage. 2 car stall is 22' wide. 3rd car stall is 13' wide.

- 2 car stall is 24.5' deep (reference, average is 20' deep)

- 3rd car stall (and this is where it gets fun) is FORTY EIGHT feet deep. Yes, that's almost deep enough to fit 3 average sized vehicles, end to end. So I have a 4 to 5 car garage, really...

- 3rd car stall is 15' wide on the deep end.

- I have 3 garage doors, one on the 2 stall front, one on the 3rd stall front, and one on the 3rd stall rear. Why the 3rd rear garage door? So that I can pull the car onto a 24' x 37' rectangular patio for detailing work (when the patio isn't used for entertainment, etc. Or, to allow exit/entry of lawn equipment, etc.

- I purposely picked a lot that allowed my house to be built facing East/West. Why? Because I want the sun facing either the front garage/driveway or the rear of the house - important in detailing, because then when it's sunny in the morning, I can wash the cars in the back patio, or vice versa. I currently live in a house facing North/South, and it's a royal PITA to squeeze in car detailing when the sun is CONSTANTLY on the driveway. Dumb idea on my part. I learned. lol.

- Garage doors are thermally insulated (the good kind), and have windows to allow light in. The 2 stall wide garage door is also extra wide, 18'.

- There will be a center drain, but I'm hoping to change it to a drain "strip" that runs across the entire garage. Looks better and more functional than those single small ones. If you guys know me by now, I've always wanted a DRAIN so I can wash and detail during winter, or other times when doing it outside is not ideal.

- There will be extra/double insulation all around the garage to aid in extreme weather. Yes, Iowa weather sucks in winter AND summer.

- It will be plumbed for gas heat. I'm not adding this yet, but will do next year. Cheaper that way.

- It will be wired for extra outlets galore... every man needs a lot of outlets to work his power tools in the garage. For me, it's my lights and my buffers for detailing.

- It will be wired for cable/satellite in 2 of the wall locations - not sure where to put it yet.

- I'm hoping for 12' or 13' ceilings, if not, a vaulted center. Why? Because I want to fit this in there:

http://www.bendpak.com/SP-7X-Scissor...oist-REV-C.pdf

As with the drain and big garage, another dream of mine was to get a lift. I verified with the measurements that I can get an average sized car of 5' height, on the lift, and lifted up to where I can work underneath it, without hitting the ceiling. I will be placing this lift in the center of the 3rd stall 48' deep area. That's where it can go up and down without hitting the sliding rails of the garage opener.

I think I caught everything. Godwilling, we can finalize all this and turn my dreams into a reality. Obviously, there's the "house" portion of all this, where my wife pretty much had the say in everything. LOL. I told her that's fine, as long as I get to have the final say in the garage.

The funny part is my Garage layout/plan is almost as big as the entire house.... HAHAHAHAHA. Total sq ft garage space = 1210 sq ft.

I attached a picture of what the garage layout will look like:

========================================

EDIT: 10/11/16

I tell you what... I've been looking at these 4 posts more and more. This really MIGHT be a better option than the scissor. It looks like there is more room to work underneath it too. I guess for tire/brake work, I'll just either have to get the accessory, or do it in another spot in the garage and just use floor jacks.

Check out the specs and video on this bendpak 4 post lift. The dimensions will still fit in my garage I think. I have 12 - 13' ceilings in a 11 x 25' rectangle.

http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/fou...ts/hd-9st.aspx

Lifting capacity*: 9,000 lbs. / 4,082 kg
*Max capacity / front axle: 4,500 lbs. / 2,041 kg
*Max capacity / rear axle: 4,500 lbs. / 2,041 kg
Overall width: 99-3/4" / 2,534 mm
Outside length: 174" / 4,420 mm
Overall length: 200" / 5,080 mm
Height of columns: 88" / 2,235 mm
Runway min height: 4-1/2" / 114 mm
Max rise: 70" / 1,778 mm
Max lifting height: 74-1/2" / 1,892 mm

Width between posts: 89-3/4" / 2,280 mm
Runway width: 19" / 483 mm
Width between runways: 37-1/2" / 952 mm
Runway center line: 56-1/2" / 1,435 mm
Outside edge of runways: 75-1/2" / 1,918 mm
Length of runways: 164" / 4166 mm
Min. wheelbase @ rated capacity: 115" / 2,921 mm
Min. wheelbase @ 75% capacity: 100" / 2,540
Min. wheelbase @ 50% capacity: 85" / 2,159 mm
Min. wheelbase @ 25% capacity: 70" / 1,778 mm
Locking positions: 12
Lock spacing: every 4" / 102 mm
Lifting time: 45 sec
Motor: 220 VAC / 60 Hz / 1 Ph
Shipping weight: 1,872 lbs. / 851 kg
Shipping dimensions: 180" x 22" x 40" / 4,572 mm x 559 mm x 1,016 mm
Note: An air supply (minimum: 30 psi / 3 CFM) is required for the safety-lock mechanisms to disengage. It is solely the responsibility of the end-user to provide, install and maintain the air supply.

Those dimensions in red bold above, will EASILY fit my 11 x 25 x 12' rectangle.
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Old 10/4/16, 05:00 PM   #2
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****,......big pimping bro!!!! Good for you.
Good luck to your family going forward Burton!
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Old 10/4/16, 05:31 PM   #3
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Wow simply wow!!!
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Old 10/4/16, 05:59 PM   #4
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I saw "viper" and ignored the rest of the post. I'll be highly jealous of you if you get one. It's been what I've wanted for many yesrs
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Old 10/4/16, 06:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stage_3
****,......big pimping bro!!!! Good for you.
Good luck to your family going forward Burton!
Lol thanks Tony. A man's home for his family is the best investment, even if we are all car guys, it's always the well being of the family first. My wife said that I can't get another toy until we get a new house, so, here we are. Lol.

Also, we are not getting toooooo excited yet. It all depends on final pricing and negotiation. It could still fall through.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mustang Freak
Wow simply wow!!!
Thanks man!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmichaels
I saw "viper" and ignored the rest of the post. I'll be highly jealous of you if you get one. It's been what I've wanted for many yesrs
I love Vipers, always had. Especially its looks. Surprisingly, I can get into a 2005-2008 ish model with under 20k miles, for around 40k. So, that's not bad. I'm definitely not getting a new one.
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Old 10/4/16, 07:55 PM   #6
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Congrats! Sounds fantastic. I am with you your garage can never be too big. When we built our home several years ago I made sure I had plenty of room. Looks like a winner. Best of luck and hope you get what you are after.
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Old 10/4/16, 08:26 PM   #7
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Jealous - that will be AWESOME. A couple thoughts:
- I'd find space and make sure you're plumbed for a "slop sink" - those are handy and keep your wife from being irritated by you using bathroom/kitchen sinks for garage stuff. I'm guessing there's some custom setup around there for cleaning your detailing stuff too.
- Personally, I would wire the garage for electric car charging too. You're going to want that in the near future and, even if you never use it, future owners will want it.
- I'd definitely get one of those fancy, finished floors - they're a huge pain to add after-the-fact.
- You didn't mention lighting, but I'm guessing you have some pretty stellar lighting planned. If not, check out Big *** Lights (http://www.bigasslight.com/).
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Old 10/4/16, 08:43 PM   #8
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If I could lend some advice on things I did that turned out good and things I wish I as done...

1. I've got a little sitting area in front of my 55" tv because I find I spend a lot of time in the garage. Just a couple of cushioned outdoor chairs but I have just enough room for them. Wouldn't mind getting some kind of roll around recliner or couch with leather or vinyl someday.

2. So because of this placement of the tv is key. Think about where you are going to put it. I've got a shelf where my satellite receiver is and my stereo receiver. I put 4 speakers on the wall. Two on either side of the tv and two more in the shop area so I have music wherever I am.

3. Compressor. You will need one for the lift. I got a big tank one that sits there permanently. Of course it comes in handy for pneumatic tolls and airing stuff up. Some people and I wish I had thought of this put it inside of a closet so the sound isn't so loud when it kicks on. I've got some schedule 80 pvc pipe and some special fittings that I have never gotten around to using. My hose reel is in a good spot and covers everything. Also you'll need 220v most likely for the lift and of course the compressor. I've also got a welding plug I've never used but it's there.

4. Sink. Find a place for a stand alone sink. I use it all the time. Just one of those plastic 24x24" sinks.

5. The floor. I used epoxy. When the house was done I went in and out two coats of sherwin-Williams tile clad. The thing about epoxy is the more solids it has in it the stronger it is. But the more solids it has in it the more it costs. So buy the best you can find. In the past two houses I used the rustoleum and I think armor all and they were both ****. With hot tires parked on them they lifted right away exposing bare concrete.

6. Lighting. This is huge. Think about where the lighting is. Where you'll have your hood up needing light and possibly blocking light that's on the ceiling on the wrong side of an open hood.

7. I might suggest spray foam insulation for the walls. Icynene foam or whatever the different types are. My garage walls and attic are sealed with open cell foam. It's a great cold weather insulation and good for warm weather too. I've got about 1100 sq.ft. Of garage and shop and I can cool it all with a 1/2 ton window (110v) unit in south Texas during the summer.

Deck the attic for storage. I've got an actual stairs to the attic and most of my old parts are up there. I don't have to deal with a pull down stairs, I just carry up the regular stairs.

That's about all I can think of off hand.

I think of you can manage a 12' ceiling in the area with the lift you'll be good as long as you stick to cars. I've got a 16' ceiling and I don't even come close to it even with lifted trucks. 13' would be enough for me with trucks.

About the only thing I wish I had was a urinal or toilet and I could live out here. As it is I just go outside where nobody can see me lol.

Which reminds me don't forget a place for a fridge. I've got a glass door little fridge stocked with beer and water.
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Old 10/5/16, 08:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shaneyusa View Post
Congrats! Sounds fantastic. I am with you your garage can never be too big. When we built our home several years ago I made sure I had plenty of room. Looks like a winner. Best of luck and hope you get what you are after.
Thanks Shane! We meet with the folks today to discuss the final updated plans, and of course start the final pricing negotiations. Freaking me out a little bit, to be honest. Being it's a new/custom build, I will still negotiate hard on the price, kind of like I'm buying a new spec house or used house.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kylerohde View Post
Jealous - that will be AWESOME. A couple thoughts:
- I'd find space and make sure you're plumbed for a "slop sink" - those are handy and keep your wife from being irritated by you using bathroom/kitchen sinks for garage stuff. I'm guessing there's some custom setup around there for cleaning your detailing stuff too.
- Personally, I would wire the garage for electric car charging too. You're going to want that in the near future and, even if you never use it, future owners will want it.
- I'd definitely get one of those fancy, finished floors - they're a huge pain to add after-the-fact.
- You didn't mention lighting, but I'm guessing you have some pretty stellar lighting planned. If not, check out Big *** Lights (http://www.bigasslight.com/).
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2k7gtcs View Post
If I could lend some advice on things I did that turned out good and things I wish I as done...

1. I've got a little sitting area in front of my 55" tv because I find I spend a lot of time in the garage. Just a couple of cushioned outdoor chairs but I have just enough room for them. Wouldn't mind getting some kind of roll around recliner or couch with leather or vinyl someday.

2. So because of this placement of the tv is key. Think about where you are going to put it. I've got a shelf where my satellite receiver is and my stereo receiver. I put 4 speakers on the wall. Two on either side of the tv and two more in the shop area so I have music wherever I am.

3. Compressor. You will need one for the lift. I got a big tank one that sits there permanently. Of course it comes in handy for pneumatic tolls and airing stuff up. Some people and I wish I had thought of this put it inside of a closet so the sound isn't so loud when it kicks on. I've got some schedule 80 pvc pipe and some special fittings that I have never gotten around to using. My hose reel is in a good spot and covers everything. Also you'll need 220v most likely for the lift and of course the compressor. I've also got a welding plug I've never used but it's there.

4. Sink. Find a place for a stand alone sink. I use it all the time. Just one of those plastic 24x24" sinks.

5. The floor. I used epoxy. When the house was done I went in and out two coats of sherwin-Williams tile clad. The thing about epoxy is the more solids it has in it the stronger it is. But the more solids it has in it the more it costs. So buy the best you can find. In the past two houses I used the rustoleum and I think armor all and they were both ****. With hot tires parked on them they lifted right away exposing bare concrete.

6. Lighting. This is huge. Think about where the lighting is. Where you'll have your hood up needing light and possibly blocking light that's on the ceiling on the wrong side of an open hood.

7. I might suggest spray foam insulation for the walls. Icynene foam or whatever the different types are. My garage walls and attic are sealed with open cell foam. It's a great cold weather insulation and good for warm weather too. I've got about 1100 sq.ft. Of garage and shop and I can cool it all with a 1/2 ton window (110v) unit in south Texas during the summer.

Deck the attic for storage. I've got an actual stairs to the attic and most of my old parts are up there. I don't have to deal with a pull down stairs, I just carry up the regular stairs.

That's about all I can think of off hand.

I think of you can manage a 12' ceiling in the area with the lift you'll be good as long as you stick to cars. I've got a 16' ceiling and I don't even come close to it even with lifted trucks. 13' would be enough for me with trucks.

About the only thing I wish I had was a urinal or toilet and I could live out here. As it is I just go outside where nobody can see me lol.

Which reminds me don't forget a place for a fridge. I've got a glass door little fridge stocked with beer and water.
Thanks for the comments Kyle and Gary... let me address:

- I forgot to mention that I do have a utility sink planned, I just didn't show it in that pic. I attached a different layout plan below, and it shows the sink. I'm thinking about moving the sink to either location marked with the red X. What do you think? I figured, I don't want to impinge on the 3rd stall width with that sink there. Then if I move it to the right of the steps/door to the laundry room, it's already dead space there anyways. I could move it there. Thoughts?

- Electric car charging!?!?!?!? Whaaaaaaaat? lol, kidding Kyle. I think that's a good idea and my wife will love it, but dang, I think we are years out from owning one. Even though it may cost more, I think I will wait to do that post-build. Wifey is already not happy with how much I'm spending on the garage

- Epoxy floors... that is a really good reminder about that. How much do you think that will cost for my dimensions of 1210 sq ft? I googled a few local contractors here and I'll ask my buddies. I will get a quote. Hopefully it's not too bad, but I'm worried it might be 5k or so

- Lighting, ohhhh yes lighting. I will not have them install the lighting yet, but I will have them WIRE it all for fluorescent lighting all over. Every detailer knows that lighting is one their most important requirement (MIR's). So I am also having them wire them for ceiling fans.

- TV's... currently I am planning to put 2 tv's in there. I marked them with "O's" on the picture. One will be on the side of the 3rd stall, the second will be in the corner of house side/2 stall side. Football parties HERE WE COME!

- Compressor... another buddy of mine mentioned this. I already have a standing compressor that I bought a couple years ago. Will this suffice? I don't think I'll be using much air tools, because I have all electric/cordless 18V ratchet wrenches, etc... Milwaukee brand. Brand new, and I love 'em.

- 220V source. Good point. I think I will also wait on this install. I won't put the lift in until next year or so (baby steps), so when I get that done, I think I will get that added. How much would it be to wire for 220?

- Spray foam. Yes, I already told them that is what I want for insulation all over.

- Attic. I need to talk to them about this.

Thanks for the comments guys. Keep em coming.
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Old 10/5/16, 09:19 AM   #10
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One other thought on the electric car charging...if your laundry room is on the opposite side of the wall where that will go, you might already be incurring most of the cost of getting 220v for your dryer. If that's the case, might be worth running it to the garage too. I'm not electrician so not sure of all the specifics but that seems like possible synergy!
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Old 10/5/16, 10:37 AM   #11
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Those 220v circuits are home run to the electrical panel.

Each wire is sized for the kW and amperage.

One thing that could happen though is that too many of these and you'll have to up you service to something higher than the 200amp service we use here for a regular house. I had to get 300amp and my dad has 400amp service because of all the outlets and loads he has.

Putting gas in helps. Such as a gas cooktop, water heaters, furnace (we use forced air furnaces here in the south Texas), and even the dryer. All of these will reduce the electrical load on the service. I had a gas dryer a few years ago and wish I had it back. It worked great.
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Old 10/5/16, 11:50 AM   #12
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Iím in the process planning/costing out finishing my garage space right now. After using it for awhile Iíve come to the conclusion an exterior grade steel siding is the best choice for interior wall finish. I hand wash my cars in the garage and itís entirely impossible to keep water overspray from hitting the walls. No way drywall is going to stand up to that for long and stay nice looking, even if it has the best paint on it. Not only that but when it gets dusty and dirty, all I have to do is hit the walls with a wet foam bush, rinse and away we go. It comes in lots of colors as well but white is probably the best choice to keep the space well lit.

Add some roll-up/down curtains around one bay to create a segregated wash area. The curtains keep water spray contained and off everything else in the garage. When done washing, roll them back up to the ceiling and have a wide open garage again!

As far as lighting goes, LED all the wayÖitís not even worth considering anything else anymore. Many times the lumens at a fraction of the operating cost, no cold wake up time, extremely long life, the price per fixture is coming down to very affordable levels and with recent innovations, it can be had in very true clean white light. No reason not to use it anymore.

If possible add a window or two on opposing walls for natural light and more importantly, cross-ventilation. Good quality high flow ceiling exhaust fans(Bathroom fans on steroids) will help reduce the humidity and dry the garage after wet episodes when you want to keep the doors/windows closed to keep dust to a minimum.

As far as 220 volt goes, do it now. Unless you can DIY later (Simple job if the walls are open), having it done while the house is under construction might cost you an additional $500 for a couple runsÖand several times that to have somebody do it later. Youíll need a run for the compressor, one for the lift and you should consider adding one or two more for other pieces of equipment you might want to add in the future.

If youíre planning to heat the space and us it in the space in the winter, install radiant floor heatingÖif youíre really on the ball youíll do that in your entire house! Cost of install is a bit higher but cost of operation and human comfort are unsurpassed. Use high pressure ceiling ducting for summer AC throughout.

Top end industrial floor finishes are about $5 to $8 asquare foot installed. Unless you want to refinish your floor periodically with lower end stuff, or donít care if your floor turns back into sand from the calcium chloride cocktail thatís applied to our northern roads during the winter months, go for the best finish you can afford and make it light in color so your lighting does a better job of illuminating the space.

All of that might look a little industrial for some people. I like it and donít think it looks bad at all when you consider it is a garage. Plus it makes sense for the application.

John

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Old 10/6/16, 06:17 AM   #13
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Gonna be sweet. A few thoughts?? What about an area for a small stackable washer and dryer since you have everything else? That would give you the ability to wash/dry shop/detail towels?? FWIW on the 220v for possible future charging. My boss bought a tesla and had to have his house fitted for charging. He said that the charging unit required a dedicated breaker be added to his box used solely for the charger.
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Old 10/6/16, 07:02 AM   #14
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I hate you.

Just kidding...kind of..no really I'm kidding...no I'm not.

Really, that's great. We are buying another house soon and the top of my wish list is a garage and a home theater room. Garage get's priority.
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Old 10/6/16, 07:14 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VidPro View Post
I hate you.

Just kidding...kind of..no really I'm kidding...no I'm not.

Really, that's great. We are buying another house soon and the top of my wish list is a garage and a home theater room. Garage get's priority.

Do it right and the theater room can go above the garage.
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Old 10/6/16, 08:59 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by SpectreH View Post
Do it right and the theater room can go above the garage.
Lift in garage and trap door in theater room, lift car into theater room
and it's like a drive-in.
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Old 10/7/16, 10:45 AM   #17
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One other thought on the electric car charging...if your laundry room is on the opposite side of the wall where that will go, you might already be incurring most of the cost of getting 220v for your dryer. If that's the case, might be worth running it to the garage too. I'm not electrician so not sure of all the specifics but that seems like possible synergy!
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Those 220v circuits are home run to the electrical panel.

Each wire is sized for the kW and amperage.

One thing that could happen though is that too many of these and you'll have to up you service to something higher than the 200amp service we use here for a regular house. I had to get 300amp and my dad has 400amp service because of all the outlets and loads he has.

Putting gas in helps. Such as a gas cooktop, water heaters, furnace (we use forced air furnaces here in the south Texas), and even the dryer. All of these will reduce the electrical load on the service. I had a gas dryer a few years ago and wish I had it back. It worked great.
You guys are really making me think about this 220V thing... hmmmm let me talk to our project manager and see if they can quote that in.

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Originally Posted by Horspla View Post
Iím in the process planning/costing out finishing my garage space right now. After using it for awhile Iíve come to the conclusion an exterior grade steel siding is the best choice for interior wall finish. I hand wash my cars in the garage and itís entirely impossible to keep water overspray from hitting the walls. No way drywall is going to stand up to that for long and stay nice looking, even if it has the best paint on it. Not only that but when it gets dusty and dirty, all I have to do is hit the walls with a wet foam bush, rinse and away we go. It comes in lots of colors as well but white is probably the best choice to keep the space well lit.

Add some roll-up/down curtains around one bay to create a segregated wash area. The curtains keep water spray contained and off everything else in the garage. When done washing, roll them back up to the ceiling and have a wide open garage again!

As far as lighting goes, LED all the wayÖitís not even worth considering anything else anymore. Many times the lumens at a fraction of the operating cost, no cold wake up time, extremely long life, the price per fixture is coming down to very affordable levels and with recent innovations, it can be had in very true clean white light. No reason not to use it anymore.

If possible add a window or two on opposing walls for natural light and more importantly, cross-ventilation. Good quality high flow ceiling exhaust fans(Bathroom fans on steroids) will help reduce the humidity and dry the garage after wet episodes when you want to keep the doors/windows closed to keep dust to a minimum.

As far as 220 volt goes, do it now. Unless you can DIY later (Simple job if the walls are open), having it done while the house is under construction might cost you an additional $500 for a couple runsÖand several times that to have somebody do it later. Youíll need a run for the compressor, one for the lift and you should consider adding one or two more for other pieces of equipment you might want to add in the future.

If youíre planning to heat the space and us it in the space in the winter, install radiant floor heatingÖif youíre really on the ball youíll do that in your entire house! Cost of install is a bit higher but cost of operation and human comfort are unsurpassed. Use high pressure ceiling ducting for summer AC throughout.

Top end industrial floor finishes are about $5 to $8 asquare foot installed. Unless you want to refinish your floor periodically with lower end stuff, or donít care if your floor turns back into sand from the calcium chloride cocktail thatís applied to our northern roads during the winter months, go for the best finish you can afford and make it light in color so your lighting does a better job of illuminating the space.

All of that might look a little industrial for some people. I like it and donít think it looks bad at all when you consider it is a garage. Plus it makes sense for the application.

John
John buddy! What's up man. LED lighting for sure is the best, but man, it's so pricey. That might be something I will add later on. The important thing is wiring and junction boxes. That for sure, I will get done.

As far as the windows, I thought about that, but I don't think I want any there because then people can see in, plus it's a source of break-in. I have a full security system now in our house, and that window will be another entry point I'd have to get sensors for I figured for airflow, I'd just open one of the 3 garage doors

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Gonna be sweet. A few thoughts?? What about an area for a small stackable washer and dryer since you have everything else? That would give you the ability to wash/dry shop/detail towels?? FWIW on the 220v for possible future charging. My boss bought a tesla and had to have his house fitted for charging. He said that the charging unit required a dedicated breaker be added to his box used solely for the charger.
The washer/dryer is right inside the door entry to the house through the garage... so no need. Besides, if I added that, wife might make me do laundry.

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I hate you.

Just kidding...kind of..no really I'm kidding...no I'm not.

Really, that's great. We are buying another house soon and the top of my wish list is a garage and a home theater room. Garage get's priority.
Thanks man! Nothing's for sure yet... we're still final pricing it. But it looks like we can do it. Just a few things to work through. If we don't do this now, it will be next year sometime. No worries.

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Do it right and the theater room can go above the garage.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheReaper View Post
Lift in garage and trap door in theater room, lift car into theater room
and it's like a drive-in.
mmmmm Theater room.

Btw, another thought we had - to place the aircompressor tank up in the ceiling between the rafters, etc. To hide the compressor and get space. What you guys think of that?

The plans are getting revised yet again, so I get a new plan today this pm. I will review and share that once updated.
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Old 10/7/16, 11:56 AM   #18
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I wouldn't put the compressor in the attic

Too much resonance. The vibrations will travel easily on the floor joists upstairs.

Plus they need to be drained occasionally for the condensate that build up in the tank

Plus they are heavy as ****
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Old 10/7/16, 12:22 PM   #19
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This sounds great, and I'm dreaming and curious --

Roughly how much might one expect a garage like this to cost?
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Old 10/7/16, 12:27 PM   #20
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I'm jealous man! I need a 3 car garage. I just bought a Kia Soul for a daily driver. Going to keep the miles off the Stang and try to keep it nice. Now we have to park one of the cars outside.
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