GT Rear Brake Upgrade
7/18/17, 09:49 PM
#101
2014 SGM Roush Stage 2 --------- Moderator------
Thread Starter
So I was going through the box of GT brake parts I have collected from the upgrade and noticed the anti-moan brackets were there and it got me thinking...
Is there a replacement set for the GT500? If so do I need to add a set of the GT500 version? Just wondering if not having them reinstalled will cause me noise issues later?
I do not remember anyone addressing these in the previous write-ups other than to say they are to be removed and will not be re-used.
I assume they are not important, but thought I would ask any way...
Is there a replacement set for the GT500? If so do I need to add a set of the GT500 version? Just wondering if not having them reinstalled will cause me noise issues later?
I do not remember anyone addressing these in the previous write-ups other than to say they are to be removed and will not be re-used.
I assume they are not important, but thought I would ask any way...
7/21/17, 02:51 PM
#102
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I have no idea; what is an "anti moan bracket" ?
I guess I didn't run into that since I used the aftermarket caliper brackets, not the GT500 kit.
I guess I didn't run into that since I used the aftermarket caliper brackets, not the GT500 kit.
7/25/17, 10:16 AM
#103
Currently a Corvette Owner!
The anti-moan brackets are there to reduce noise/vibration/squeaking. They do NOT fit when using a relocated caliper. I have the OEM GT500 install, no anti-moan brackets, no problem with noise...okay to move forward without anti-moan brackets for your install.
7/25/17, 09:26 PM
#104
2014 SGM Roush Stage 2 --------- Moderator------
Thread Starter
^^ Thanks there for the reply Pete. I have not experienced any issues, but got to wondering. 
This is a very worthwhile upgrade. Hope others will not be leery of making the jump.
This is a very worthwhile upgrade. Hope others will not be leery of making the jump.
7/25/17, 09:38 PM
#105
2014 SGM Roush Stage 2 --------- Moderator------
Thread Starter
When the upgrade is done and the caliper is moved away from center, the GT brackets become too short and will no longer fit. But it appears they are not needed with the bigger rotor setup since they are not part of the GT500 design.
Last edited by shaneyusa; 7/25/17 at 09:42 PM.
9/29/17, 07:13 AM
#106
Mach 1 Member
Question for you guys. I'm working on the Rear brake upgrade with larger rotors, added the caliper bracket and new pads.
I have the passenger side done, and I'm having an issue on the driver side. As I'm screwing the piston back in, I get to a point where it will not screw in any further.
Should the piston be flush or does it stick out some? Because the piston will not clear the pad to drop in to position. The boot is flush with the caliper.
I can put the old pads in and the piston clears them.
Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong? Or what else I could try?
I have the passenger side done, and I'm having an issue on the driver side. As I'm screwing the piston back in, I get to a point where it will not screw in any further.
Should the piston be flush or does it stick out some? Because the piston will not clear the pad to drop in to position. The boot is flush with the caliper.
I can put the old pads in and the piston clears them.
Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong? Or what else I could try?
9/30/17, 11:04 PM
#107
2014 SGM Roush Stage 2 --------- Moderator------
Thread Starter
From what I know the piston should be flush when it is pushed back in if it is all the way in. You would do that for new shoes. What year is your car? I do remember there was something about filing the caliper for the pre-2013 calipers, but it looks like you have a 2013 right?
Check PRJManagement's thread for documentation on the upgrade...
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...pgrade-537228/
Check PRJManagement's thread for documentation on the upgrade...
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...pgrade-537228/
Last edited by shaneyusa; 9/30/17 at 11:12 PM.
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10/1/17, 04:53 AM
#108
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If I remember correctly the piston should screw in until it is pretty much flush with the caliper. Make sure you opened the bleeder screw to relieve the pressure; or look again to try to figure out why it won't go all the way in.
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10/1/17, 06:36 AM
#109
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Question for you guys. I'm working on the Rear brake upgrade with larger rotors, added the caliper bracket and new pads.
I have the passenger side done, and I'm having an issue on the driver side. As I'm screwing the piston back in, I get to a point where it will not screw in any further.
Should the piston be flush or does it stick out some? Because the piston will not clear the pad to drop in to position. The boot is flush with the caliper.
I can put the old pads in and the piston clears them.
Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong? Or what else I could try?
I have the passenger side done, and I'm having an issue on the driver side. As I'm screwing the piston back in, I get to a point where it will not screw in any further.
Should the piston be flush or does it stick out some? Because the piston will not clear the pad to drop in to position. The boot is flush with the caliper.
I can put the old pads in and the piston clears them.
Any thoughts on what I'm doing wrong? Or what else I could try?
I've had this happen before, where it just stopped and wouldn't budge. I ended up replacing the caliper.
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Rog13GTCS (10/1/17)
10/1/17, 07:23 AM
#110
From what I know the piston should be flush when it is pushed back in if it is all the way in. You would do that for new shoes. What year is your car? I do remember there was something about filing the caliper for the pre-2013 calipers, but it looks like you have a 2013 right?
Check PRJManagement's thread for documentation on the upgrade...
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...pgrade-537228/
Check PRJManagement's thread for documentation on the upgrade...
https://themustangsource.com/forums/...pgrade-537228/
10/1/17, 02:07 PM
#111
Mach 1 Member
Thanks for the replies everyone. Yes I have a 13 GT.
The piston would go in so far and just stop no matter how hard I tried to turn it. It sticks out about 1/8" to 3/16" from flush, and right before it stops I can feel a grinding through the tool, which probably isnt good.
A co-worker told me friday if it stopped before going flush then it is probably easier to replace the caliper like 5.Monster suggested.
With my work schedule this week, I'm not going to have time to work on this. I called the dealer and set up an appt for Tuesday. I'll have them do this and replace the remaining pads. I was able to get the stock pads back in to drive it to the dealer.
Looking forward to trying out the new pads and rotors!
The piston would go in so far and just stop no matter how hard I tried to turn it. It sticks out about 1/8" to 3/16" from flush, and right before it stops I can feel a grinding through the tool, which probably isnt good.
A co-worker told me friday if it stopped before going flush then it is probably easier to replace the caliper like 5.Monster suggested.
With my work schedule this week, I'm not going to have time to work on this. I called the dealer and set up an appt for Tuesday. I'll have them do this and replace the remaining pads. I was able to get the stock pads back in to drive it to the dealer.
Looking forward to trying out the new pads and rotors!
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