First GT...Leftover 2012, or new 2013?
1/16/12, 02:20 PM
#21
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Kona was a close second but I am a sucker for the (albeit, overplayed) blacked out look!
The difference is leather wrapped wheel (cost 100 to do on '12), Sync (dont care enough about to change on the '12), HID's (cost 200 to do a drop in kit on '12) Recaro's (if I did decide to put Corbeaus in the '12 thats about 1k all said and done).
I do like the looks of the 2013 hood/tails/wheels better than the '12 BUT...I just dont know if I like everything 3500 dollars better!
Does anyone know of a good site to get different angled pics of the '12 vs '13?
My main concern is two things: 1. I am not sure if dealers will sell the '13 @ invoice (or how easy it would be for me to get an xplan pin). 2. If I wait too long to find out number 1, I may lose the 2-3 2012's that are an option.
Does the 750 brochure rebate work on the '13? (do you use it when you order or when you pick the car up?)
If I can get a black 3.73, recaro (cloth, since it looks like leather recaros on a base model is not an option) 6mt for 31,000 OTD I think I might swing for the '13. If its going to cost me 32, 33k+ I dont know if I can justify the difference.
**** this is hard! I have been car shopping for the last 8-10 years for fun (the last year agressively). So its hard for me to rush a decision when I am all about the research!
The difference is leather wrapped wheel (cost 100 to do on '12), Sync (dont care enough about to change on the '12), HID's (cost 200 to do a drop in kit on '12) Recaro's (if I did decide to put Corbeaus in the '12 thats about 1k all said and done).
I do like the looks of the 2013 hood/tails/wheels better than the '12 BUT...I just dont know if I like everything 3500 dollars better!
Does anyone know of a good site to get different angled pics of the '12 vs '13?
My main concern is two things: 1. I am not sure if dealers will sell the '13 @ invoice (or how easy it would be for me to get an xplan pin). 2. If I wait too long to find out number 1, I may lose the 2-3 2012's that are an option.
Does the 750 brochure rebate work on the '13? (do you use it when you order or when you pick the car up?)
If I can get a black 3.73, recaro (cloth, since it looks like leather recaros on a base model is not an option) 6mt for 31,000 OTD I think I might swing for the '13. If its going to cost me 32, 33k+ I dont know if I can justify the difference.
**** this is hard! I have been car shopping for the last 8-10 years for fun (the last year agressively). So its hard for me to rush a decision when I am all about the research!
1/16/12, 02:26 PM
#22
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About your breakdown on prices for options. It will cost ALOT more than $200 to "drop in" HID lamps on a 2012 that doesn't have them if you plan on using the Ford kit. Aftermarket bulbs, maybe, but not hte OEM light buckets.
And about adding Corbeau seats? You may want to talk to your insurance company about that. I only say that as all the cars come with side airbags. If they find out you tampered with them (i.e removed them), your rate could change substantially, because the car's safety items are no longer what they were. Just food for thought.
And if you sign up for Mustang Club of America, you can get an X-Plan PIN. The membership costs $50 for a year. Alof of people have done it.
And about adding Corbeau seats? You may want to talk to your insurance company about that. I only say that as all the cars come with side airbags. If they find out you tampered with them (i.e removed them), your rate could change substantially, because the car's safety items are no longer what they were. Just food for thought.
And if you sign up for Mustang Club of America, you can get an X-Plan PIN. The membership costs $50 for a year. Alof of people have done it.
Last edited by 05fordgt; 1/16/12 at 02:27 PM.
1/16/12, 02:53 PM
#23
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Not that 5 bucks is a big deal, but you can also sign up at SVTOA (Special Vehicles Team Owners Association) for $45 and use their x-plan pricing. You do not have to own a SVT vehicle to be a member.
1/16/12, 03:10 PM
#24
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I was more looking into the plug and play drop in kits (~200) as opposed to finding the OE HID's (which seem to go for about 600 on ebay).
Thanks for the heads up on the seats...did not realize they had side airbags in them!
pa93cobra thanks for the svtoa info. I actually am an SVT owner (03 SVT focus
Either she goes for about 4500 or my 2001 s10 4x4 with 145k goes for 3500 to help with downpayment the one I keep will be my winter ride unless I buy snow tires for the 5.0 and sell both)
What would you guys do in my situation?
2012 with 3.73 for 27,250
2012 with 3.31 for 26,750 or
2013 with recaros, 3.73's and the other '13 upgrades for ~32k.
Thanks for the heads up on the seats...did not realize they had side airbags in them!
pa93cobra thanks for the svtoa info. I actually am an SVT owner (03 SVT focus
Either she goes for about 4500 or my 2001 s10 4x4 with 145k goes for 3500 to help with downpayment the one I keep will be my winter ride unless I buy snow tires for the 5.0 and sell both)What would you guys do in my situation?
2012 with 3.73 for 27,250
2012 with 3.31 for 26,750 or
2013 with recaros, 3.73's and the other '13 upgrades for ~32k.
Last edited by r00st; 1/16/12 at 03:12 PM.
1/16/12, 03:48 PM
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Tough call but I agree with others that it really comes down to the body style and the optional choices. I decided to purchase the 2013 Boss rather than the 2012 due to the rear changes, the 1970 stripes and the Track apps feature. I am willing to forego the savings to get what I really want.
Sold my 93 Cobra to help fund my new purchase.
Sold my 93 Cobra to help fund my new purchase.
1/16/12, 05:12 PM
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Since I dont know any of you...Ill throw my finances out there to help aid in the decision. I am 25 and bought my home 1.5 years ago (fixed up 90% of it but still the occasional repair that sneaks up).
I just started a new job and should be brining home about ~600/week take home . I also have a room mate that pays me 450 a month. This is 2850 a month. I currently pay 1400/month for my home and all utilities/taxes (this includes an extra $230/month toward my mortgage to go straight to principal). Figure in another 250 for gas/groceries/randoms = 1650/month. Due to a lot of job changing I have nothing to show for retirement so I want to contribute to my new jobs pension plan an extra say 150/month. That puts me at 1800. That leaves about 1000 a month on the table.
After I sell either or both my car/truck (call it 5k down toward the mustang) It puts the '12 @ $400/month or the '13 @ 490/month.
Now that all of the internet knows my finances what would you older and wiser folks do if you were in my situation?
'12 or '13???
I just started a new job and should be brining home about ~600/week take home . I also have a room mate that pays me 450 a month. This is 2850 a month. I currently pay 1400/month for my home and all utilities/taxes (this includes an extra $230/month toward my mortgage to go straight to principal). Figure in another 250 for gas/groceries/randoms = 1650/month. Due to a lot of job changing I have nothing to show for retirement so I want to contribute to my new jobs pension plan an extra say 150/month. That puts me at 1800. That leaves about 1000 a month on the table.
After I sell either or both my car/truck (call it 5k down toward the mustang) It puts the '12 @ $400/month or the '13 @ 490/month.
Now that all of the internet knows my finances what would you older and wiser folks do if you were in my situation?
'12 or '13???
Last edited by r00st; 1/16/12 at 05:14 PM.
1/16/12, 06:45 PM
#27
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Save the money and go with a close out 2012 GT. Take the money you save every month and put it in the bank for those unpredictable expenses you never plan for.
1/16/12, 06:56 PM
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I think I am leaning toward the 2012. As much as I want recaro's I dont think they are worth the 4500 bucks.
My thought process on getting the '12 is: I will have less invested (and easier to pay off) in case the 2015 is magical and I HAVE TO HAVE IT. Where as if I get the 2013 it will be that much harder to swing another new car.
As stressful as this decision is, its a win-win regardless. Either way I end up with a 5.0
Going from 150whp to 370whp is going to be: Amazing!
My thought process on getting the '12 is: I will have less invested (and easier to pay off) in case the 2015 is magical and I HAVE TO HAVE IT. Where as if I get the 2013 it will be that much harder to swing another new car.
As stressful as this decision is, its a win-win regardless. Either way I end up with a 5.0
Going from 150whp to 370whp is going to be: Amazing!
1/16/12, 07:04 PM
#29
Since I dont know any of you...Ill throw my finances out there to help aid in the decision. I am 25 and bought my home 1.5 years ago (fixed up 90% of it but still the occasional repair that sneaks up).
I just started a new job and should be brining home about ~600/week take home . I also have a room mate that pays me 450 a month. This is 2850 a month. I currently pay 1400/month for my home and all utilities/taxes (this includes an extra $230/month toward my mortgage to go straight to principal). Figure in another 250 for gas/groceries/randoms = 1650/month. Due to a lot of job changing I have nothing to show for retirement so I want to contribute to my new jobs pension plan an extra say 150/month. That puts me at 1800. That leaves about 1000 a month on the table.
After I sell either or both my car/truck (call it 5k down toward the mustang) It puts the '12 @ $400/month or the '13 @ 490/month.
Now that all of the internet knows my finances what would you older and wiser folks do if you were in my situation?
'12 or '13???
I just started a new job and should be brining home about ~600/week take home . I also have a room mate that pays me 450 a month. This is 2850 a month. I currently pay 1400/month for my home and all utilities/taxes (this includes an extra $230/month toward my mortgage to go straight to principal). Figure in another 250 for gas/groceries/randoms = 1650/month. Due to a lot of job changing I have nothing to show for retirement so I want to contribute to my new jobs pension plan an extra say 150/month. That puts me at 1800. That leaves about 1000 a month on the table.
After I sell either or both my car/truck (call it 5k down toward the mustang) It puts the '12 @ $400/month or the '13 @ 490/month.
Now that all of the internet knows my finances what would you older and wiser folks do if you were in my situation?
'12 or '13???
What about insurance? At your age, on this car, the amount you are paying for insurance is going to skyrocket compared to what you are insuring currently. That needs to be figured into the mix as well. Not to mention any emergency that may pop up. Heat/air unit for the house takes a dump, water heater bursts, etc.
I know what its like to want a nice car at that age, and how juggling numbers can make it seem like a workable plan, but personally I would advise against it. Save that money that you are planning to have every month to make these payments, and see how it goes for a year. If it has worked out the way you have it planned now, you'll have a nice chunk saved up for a down payment. If it doesn't, think what kind of shape you would have been in if you had committed to buying that car.
1/16/12, 07:17 PM
#30
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Thanks I appreciate that input.
Yes the room mate deal is not guaranteed income so I should not treat it as such.
Ironically (probably because I have my bike/quad/car/house all with one company) my rates only go up 50 dollars every 6 months for full coverage on a 2012 5.0! I was shocked to see that when I got the new quote.
I think the '13 is for sure out.... I did replace most everything in this house (all new flooring/appliances water heat your name it) only thing left is the biggy: the furnace.
Worst case scenario I do have two motorcycles (one is being sold this spring for ~3500) and a four wheeler which if push comes to shove would get liquidated.
Yes the room mate deal is not guaranteed income so I should not treat it as such.
Ironically (probably because I have my bike/quad/car/house all with one company) my rates only go up 50 dollars every 6 months for full coverage on a 2012 5.0! I was shocked to see that when I got the new quote.
I think the '13 is for sure out.... I did replace most everything in this house (all new flooring/appliances water heat your name it) only thing left is the biggy: the furnace.
Worst case scenario I do have two motorcycles (one is being sold this spring for ~3500) and a four wheeler which if push comes to shove would get liquidated.
1/16/12, 07:51 PM
#32
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I actually did look into used 2011's and 2012's. The problem is almost all the cars are premiums. Which means most of their original stickers were 32-35k. Most have 2-15,000 on the odo and they are asking for 27k-30k for them!
The '12s im looking at are over 5k off MSRP (30,500 msrp for 25,400 before tax/title). For me its a no brainer to get a brand new car (better financing than used) instead of a premium version used car for 1-2k more.
With the 3,000 rebate +750 brochure rebate + dealer discounts I think I could probably actually get a premium version GT with a couple hundred of what the used '12 premiums with ~5-10k miles are selling for.
I think I am going to go for the '12 to save money. I will probably sell both the SVT Focus and the s10 to put down a large chunk (7-8k) to knock another 100/month off the GT. If I do sell both that means the GT is my 365 day car which im not super excited about due to salt. \
Now I have to decide if i should get the 3.31 car that was built in august (so on a lot for 6 months) and save 750. OR get the 3.31 car that was build dec 13 (its just a baby!) and save 350. OR get the 3.73 car which is 280 miles away (built in December too) so it would have just over 300 miles on it when I get it.
HMMMM
The '12s im looking at are over 5k off MSRP (30,500 msrp for 25,400 before tax/title). For me its a no brainer to get a brand new car (better financing than used) instead of a premium version used car for 1-2k more.
With the 3,000 rebate +750 brochure rebate + dealer discounts I think I could probably actually get a premium version GT with a couple hundred of what the used '12 premiums with ~5-10k miles are selling for.
I think I am going to go for the '12 to save money. I will probably sell both the SVT Focus and the s10 to put down a large chunk (7-8k) to knock another 100/month off the GT. If I do sell both that means the GT is my 365 day car which im not super excited about due to salt. \
Now I have to decide if i should get the 3.31 car that was built in august (so on a lot for 6 months) and save 750. OR get the 3.31 car that was build dec 13 (its just a baby!) and save 350. OR get the 3.73 car which is 280 miles away (built in December too) so it would have just over 300 miles on it when I get it.
HMMMM
1/16/12, 08:06 PM
#33
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Asking price = sucker price. Any research you do will tell you that dealers make more profit on used cars than new. Take 4-5k off the asking price of *any* of those local listings and walk in and make a serious-will-buy-it-today offer of $5500 BELOW the asking price and see where you end up.
You have all the power and leverage as the paying customer as long as you are willing to walk away if you don't get a killer deal. Starting off the negotiation with a list of local car listings, and letting the dealer know they have the first chance to earn your business works wonders. You really need to learn to be a harda$$ on negotiating your hard earned cash for a sale. Try it, you have nothing to lose.
You have all the power and leverage as the paying customer as long as you are willing to walk away if you don't get a killer deal. Starting off the negotiation with a list of local car listings, and letting the dealer know they have the first chance to earn your business works wonders. You really need to learn to be a harda$$ on negotiating your hard earned cash for a sale. Try it, you have nothing to lose.
Last edited by ace72ace; 1/16/12 at 08:07 PM.
1/16/12, 08:12 PM
#34
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I might look into that tomorrow... I just figured most of them were wanting to make a nice profit on their '11 and '12s. I should just assume that most of these cars that are for sale for ~27k they probably only have ~22k into them.
One thing that might be a killer is the financing...I dont know from experience but have always heard used car financing is typically 3-5% higher than new. I have an 800 credit score so that should help regardless, but I dont want to get stuck with high interest.
Believe me I am a very hard negotiator. Today at one of the dealerships the dealer did the old "if I call and check the milage on these cars, will you agree to buy one of them?" I just laughed and said NOPE. He then asked in different ways 2-3 more times. I got pissed and told him he had 1 minute to get on the phone and call or I would go to the next dealership where they would be happy to check the mileage on these lot cars. Guess what? He called 5 different dealers for me. I respond very negatively to high pressure sales tactics and am more than happy to relay that to salesman. I tell you the price im paying and if you dont agree I will find someone who will!
I am already thinking about the extra couple hundred I am going to take off the lowest negotiated price, plus I want free all weather floor mats, a full tank of gas and the first 3 oil changes on the house
One thing that might be a killer is the financing...I dont know from experience but have always heard used car financing is typically 3-5% higher than new. I have an 800 credit score so that should help regardless, but I dont want to get stuck with high interest.
Believe me I am a very hard negotiator. Today at one of the dealerships the dealer did the old "if I call and check the milage on these cars, will you agree to buy one of them?" I just laughed and said NOPE. He then asked in different ways 2-3 more times. I got pissed and told him he had 1 minute to get on the phone and call or I would go to the next dealership where they would be happy to check the mileage on these lot cars. Guess what? He called 5 different dealers for me. I respond very negatively to high pressure sales tactics and am more than happy to relay that to salesman. I tell you the price im paying and if you dont agree I will find someone who will!
I am already thinking about the extra couple hundred I am going to take off the lowest negotiated price, plus I want free all weather floor mats, a full tank of gas and the first 3 oil changes on the house
1/18/12, 08:11 AM
#37
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For what it’s worth, I say go for the 2012….if you plan on keeping it for a while the initial depreciation is moot (Plus you will save a lot initially over the 13)….like you said you still have the 5.0 ( wish I could have afforded that!!!), plus I am partial to the 12’s since that is what I have. But if you get black, keep one of those other vehicles for a daily driver…it will kill you ( if you are like me) to see how quickly the finish on a black car can go if it is driven daily…..if I had not had my little 2010 Accent as a daily driver, I would have gotten silver…..
1/20/12, 08:05 PM
#38
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If you really like the 2013, wait for it. The deals, rebates, and 0% interest rate should come to them by summer. While I personally prefer the looks of the 2012, you should get what you like. That written, given your current income, a new Mustang would take a lot of your monthly income. On the other hand, you seem a responsible individual, life is short, and the Mustang, in any trim, is a good value as cars go these days. It's also a great car, whether it's a base V6 with the Performance Package or a loaded Shelby.
Last edited by justindo; 1/20/12 at 08:08 PM.
1/21/12, 09:50 AM
#39
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If you really like the 2013, wait for it. The deals, rebates, and 0% interest rate should come to them by summer. While I personally prefer the looks of the 2012, you should get what you like. That written, given your current income, a new Mustang would take a lot of your monthly income. On the other hand, you seem a responsible individual, life is short, and the Mustang, in any trim, is a good value as cars go these days. It's also a great car, whether it's a base V6 with the Performance Package or a loaded Shelby.
4/17/12, 07:21 AM
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R00st: Give us an update. What did you buy?
I looked for a used 2011 or newer because I wanted the 5.0 and 6 speed manual. Had to be a race red premium convertible with black. They just were not out there to be found, and the prices for used cars were not that reasonable. A new 2013 was not an option. A dealer 120 miles away gave me $6,000 off the sticker price for the exact car that I was looking for. I got the full warranty and all the perks of a new car. SOLD! I've had the car 10 days and love it.
I looked for a used 2011 or newer because I wanted the 5.0 and 6 speed manual. Had to be a race red premium convertible with black. They just were not out there to be found, and the prices for used cars were not that reasonable. A new 2013 was not an option. A dealer 120 miles away gave me $6,000 off the sticker price for the exact car that I was looking for. I got the full warranty and all the perks of a new car. SOLD! I've had the car 10 days and love it.