I think they determined that it depended on the direction of the air passages on the inside of the rotor

 

I would have assumed that the drilling would be done into the cooling veins, so I'm not sure why that would be a better indication.

 

For those of you who don't frequent the off-topic board often, my dad passed away on the 29th of September. That being said it is now 100% for sure that I'm selling the old 94. Just have to find someone who is willing to put up with it's quirks. Money is (obviously) very tight, so progress is going to be very slow for a while.

The 00 I still have big plans for. It's just a matter of when I can have money that doesn't need to go to paying bills or things like that. I am planning on a torque arm and coilovers all around. I already have the Cobra brakes sitting in my garage, and since I'm selling the white car, I plan on stealing the watts off of it as soon as I have a while to work.

Now my biggest question is whether it is a better idea to go PM3L, or just wait until I get the torque arm and take them both off then. I can tell right now that the rear suspension in the 94 is about 6 million times better than what's in the 00. I'm just wondering how much that would increase when there weren't two different roll centers that the car is trying to follow.

 

Sorry for your lose Pete. I will keep you and your family in my prayers.

I just saw this thread. Very cool 00 you got!

 

Sorry for your loss Pete. I pray that things go as smoothly as they can possibly go for you and your family.


As for your question, I think you should just wait for the torque arm. Everything I keep reading about the PM3L has mixed results and personally, I don't like the idea of having the 3rd link off center.

 

Thank you both Luis and Chris, I appreciate it.

As for the PM3L, I figure there is only one way to find out. I was over on Corner Carvers reading (reading on CC > posting on CC) a thread about how to compromise one of the bushings in your UCA so that it acts like a PM3L while still having a little bit more balance, rather than taking it out completely. I think if I do try, it will be the standard way first, and if I don't like the results, then maybe I'll try to muck up one of the bushings.

 

True, it's not like the first idea costs anything but time anyway. Is the second method reversible?

 

Not really... I mean it is if you buy new (Ford) uppers after, but in general once you compromise a bushing... it's not very happy anymore.

 

Planning on at least getting the watts off of the white car tomorrow. I also want to put the Cobra brakes on the blue car sometime this week while some of my buddies are home from school to give me a hand.

I am searching for an IRS to trade for my rear end/watts link again. I really like the wow factor, and from what I've heard it seems like as long as I have no plans of drag racing (I don't) then IRS can't be worse than the rear I have now, and with the fulltiltboogie kit it should be much better than my car ever was before.

On the body side, I think I may have accidentally fallen in love with the Roush front end. I was skeptical about just getting the front, because I never want side exhaust again in my life, but it seems like the Roush front mates up to the stock body pretty well, so that is a plan for summer as well as some possible motor mods.

And the bad news: My battery is getting drained bad. Every time I leave the car not running for more than an hour it will not start. This started 2 days ago, but luckily the first time I left it for a couple minutes, tried again and it mustered up the juice. Since then it has been push-start central. The battery is good, and I blew up my multimeter trying to figure out which fuse was related to the drain. I'm going to buy a new one tomorrow, but I don't know what it could be at this point. I'm hoping it's something dumb, but who knows.

I'm trying to get back into wrenching because I had to drop my classes this semester and have been a bit of a bum since my dad passed away, so hopefully that can start soon.

 

Yeah that fulltiltboogie kit is the **** from what I hear. He's over on svtperformance and the guys that track their R's swear buy it as a MUST HAVE. Evidently the bushings get replaced with Delrin as opposed to teh stock rubber junk or even polyurethane. Supposedly this Delrin is as hard as metal, but slippery too.

Sounds awesome.

 

Delrin is a kind of super-stiff plastic, so it can still be slippery while at the very least a tiny bit compliant where metal is not.

 

hey pete, what were you going to school for?

plan sounds awesome! I may be looking into clutches soon, or atleast one of those adjustment cables. Pedal engagement range is feeling smaller and smaller.

 

Mechanical engineering is my major.

I still haven't gotten around to doing anything. I really want to do my front brakes, and the Watts while I'm on Winter break, but at this rate, I don't know if I'll even get under the cars. I'm hoping that I can also get the seats from the old car into the new one, and move the center console over possibly. I just need a fire started under me to get me going.

 

There, now go on.

 

My thread... Is on page two...?
UNACCEPTABLE!!!

So here's my small update:

Brakes are going on tomorrow. I just got the fire in me today to go out and do them, so dammit, they are going to be done.

I got the seats from the white car into the blue car, and now it feels phenomenal. It's amazing what a pair of seats can do.

I got around to putting the Konis to something other than full stiff today (full soft, actually) and though it feels a little bit "floaty" at times, it definitely takes bumps on the freeway much more comfortably than it did before.

Lastly, I was in San Luis Obispo this past weekend, and on Saturday I stopped by MM (unannounced) and bugged the owner into letting me check out their cars. I started by telling him that I was really interested in a torque arm set up, before confiding in him my lusty thoughts of IRS in my GT. He then pointed to both of their race cars: An aero fox, and a 95 GTS both with IRS. He told me (basically) that if I have access and means to buy an IRS and upgrade the bushings that I shouldn't even think about a torque arm. So my heart is set (as it kind of had been for a while) and I am planning on selling the Watts link I just pulled from the 94, as well as the 94 itself to start funding my IRS project.

I want to buy the IRS rather than trade across so that I have unlimited time to save up and install the bushings and coilovers (go big or go home) along with some good shocks. I figure that anything that will improve ride comfort AND handling is worth doing.

That is all.

 

We have similar aspirations. And I think I have decided that I eventually want to do a 3v N/A swap. Why 3v? So I can street-legally keep 2 cats on it, instead of 4 for the 4v 4.6s. Either that or do the EJ25 STi swap that I always joke about. But there will be an IRS in the back when I'm done. My buddy from work just picked up an NB Miata with plans for a 4.6 4v swap in to it. His dad owns a Miata race team, so I now may have access to a shop to work on my car. And I may be picking up a beat to hell Miata as a daily beater pretty soon...................

 

Picking up an IRS this week. Buying it straight up so I can have time to build it up before dropping it in the car. I just need to be convinced of who has the best IRS parts. Right now I'm stuck between fulltiltboogie and MM.

 

Good stuff peter. I want to get an Irs as well..

 

Picking up my IRS 1 week from today, as long as I still have 900 in my account. The IRS: 2004 Cobra with a shade over 20k miles. The yoke has already been changed to accept the GT driveshaft. Ready to be bolted in. I think the only thing I want to do before I bolt it in is the IRS subframe bushings. Everything else (except upper control arm bushings) looks like it can be done in the car, but for those (obviously) the subframe needs to come out.

 

Will you be needing the 8.8?...I'm thinking it would be a nice upgrade for now until I can afford an IRS.