I have learned today, that it is worth the 300 dollars to have a professional do it.

So far I'm half way done. I can't get the second (top) A/C one undone with the quick disconnect tool. It is just way too close to the firewall to get the tool to work properly.

Oh well, hopefully it'll get done tomorrow. If not... Then I guess it will get done the next day. If I have learned anything, though, it's to never attempt this again.

 

Seems like they're tough on every vehicle... did you try the BARS/Radiator fixit route first?

 

I did not try a radiator leak fix type thing. I just wanted to get the real fix done, because I can not stand the fogged up windshield.

 

I've had pretty good success in the past on older vehicles without 'steam'. But a few times I've had to re-treat... I understand why not wanting to coat the water passages too much is an issue too.

 

I hate getting into something and realizing half way through that I should have paid someone else to do it. But in the end you will have saved $300 and can say you did it yourself.

 

Nevar.

Heater/ A/C core is something I know better than to do myself. Unless it's on an easy car, say, a 1966 Mustang, there's no way in (insert appropriate eternal punishment location) that I'm doin' it myself. I don't have the patience and desire to do that.

Others include:

Brake booster (after the 5th one, I'm done.)
Ford's integrated brake/parking brake caliper setups in the rear. Again, 5 tries? Done.

Pretty much anything else goes... I've even done a 3.8L V6 Front cover swap when the oil pressure relief went out... that's a fun job... especially *in the car*... really need to pull the engine to do it right, with the oil pan involved... and the cross member in the way of removing it...

But this is about heater cores, and that's the number one "not gonna do that."

/got me riled. Sorry.

 

Well the A/C hoses are finally disconnected. There was absolutely no pressure in the system at all (leak somewhere probably) so it wasn't scary to just disconnect them. The problem was there are three styles of disconnect tools. The first is like a pair of scissors? ish. It's metal with different coupling sizes to fit into whichever fitting you have. That didn't work because it is way too close to the firewall. Second there are plastic pieces that look like a hose with a bit cut out of it, so it can be slipped over the tube, and pushed into the coupling. This didn't work, because it was backed up against the firewall as well. The third kind is the one you should use. It surrounds the entire coupling "cage" and fits snug against the tube. This is the only type that will work on an SN95.

Now I just have to wait for my buddy to get here to help me pull the dash out of the way (it's already disconnected, just need to slide it back out.) and then pull the blower box, and get it all put back together. Fun day...

 

The only real easy ones I've done are the 1st gen.
Just take your time.

 

Not all vehicles. More like the ones on Fords are notoriously difficult to get at. A former Honda/Acura tech told me the ones he worked on are relatively easy to service in comparison. But that was years ago. I think all modern vehicles would pretty much be a pain to work on, considering how much junk is packed in as little space as possible.

Sorry to hear about the heater core needing replacement. Guess now you know why it was disconnected? If the heater core was grounded to the chassis, do NOT re-connect the ground strap. Electrolysis will kill the aluminum pretty quickly. Did the SN95/NE have a flow restrictor in the inlet hose? If not, might be a good idea to use one to reduce pressure in the heater core. IIRC, the Fox Mustang hose had one.

 

I need to replace both the evaporator & heater core on mine. It's gonna be reeeeally fun

 

Heater cores are the devils work. I curse them. I've never heard a good story involving a Mustang heater core.

 

This story is no different.

I just hope that mine will have no more rattles than it did before, and less would be nice. I'm FINALLY on the interior reassembly, and the plugging in the heater core/A/C lines. I don't think it should take more than an hour tomorrow to get everything back to how it was before.

 

Think positive.
When my friend did his foxbody, he very carefully put the dash back and ended up with NO rattles.
It had some rattles when he bought it new.

 

Sounds just like the over-restored classics - put back together better than the factory ever could when brand-new.

 

Well, no luck here.

I must not have plugged something in, because there is no power to the dash. The clock, the gauges, and the radio all do not have power when I turn the key to "on." I can hear the fuel pump turn on, but the starter doesn't spin when I turn to the 3rd spot either. I'm really getting irritated by this whole car not working, after I tried to do the right thing by "fixing" something situation.

 

My car is going to need a heater core replaced soon as well. I came across this website with a detailed how-to. Hope this helps...

http://poisnus.com/files/heater_core...#_Toc193016831

 

Thank you very much. That is the write up I used in coordination with another one I found on sn95fourms.com both were very helpful, but no match for the intellect of my brother with wire cutters "helping" me. He snipped the clutch position sensor while pulling out a bunch of unused speaker wires. Once I figured that out it was smooth sailing. I wish you luck, and if you have any questions about the install, do not ask me.

 

Random wire cutting FTL. Please don't test circuits with a similar approach (random grounding). At least you found that problem.