2001 Bullitt #3006
3/14/07, 02:28 PM
#61
Needs to be more Astony
Tom,
I don't mind at all; I got her for 16,000 before taxes, trade in (2000), etc
Bill,
That sounds like a good idea. I have some friends a few miles north that know alot of local folk involved in the mustang hobby. I'll spread the word around that I might be interested in the swap. The only issue at all is that my parent's don't exactly want me modding the car to begin with. I'm going to be sticking with small things that wont take the car out of commission to do, and things they might not notice.
I do really want to get this done sooner or later though. the thought of IRS just makes me smile, especially with all the curvy roads up in woodside, where alot of my friends live.
I don't mind at all; I got her for 16,000 before taxes, trade in (2000), etc
Bill,
That sounds like a good idea. I have some friends a few miles north that know alot of local folk involved in the mustang hobby. I'll spread the word around that I might be interested in the swap. The only issue at all is that my parent's don't exactly want me modding the car to begin with. I'm going to be sticking with small things that wont take the car out of commission to do, and things they might not notice.
I do really want to get this done sooner or later though. the thought of IRS just makes me smile, especially with all the curvy roads up in woodside, where alot of my friends live.
3/14/07, 02:32 PM
#62
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Exactly, really you could almost sneak this upgrade past the parents. The ride height in the rear is a little higher but not really noticable. The biggest appearance change would be the exahust tips. But a simple exhaust upgrade would solve that or if your parents aren't as knowlegable about the Bullitt. Just remember you would have to buy Cobra Pipes. But I have to say I got SLP pipes and they look great. I'll have to get some pictures of it and the IRS for you.
3/14/07, 02:58 PM
#63
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Now to find a terminator owner who thinks his IRS is worth exactly the same as a stock 8.8 
lol
I'll have to spend time acquiring my resources and seeing where i can get it done. I know I can't afford a shop to do it, and I need to make sure wherever i Do do it has all the necc tools and such. I also wanna make sure i have someone around who knows what he's doing lol. I think I may also get my shifter setup done, and maybe even try and get some more ponies under the hood before I do thisswap. Plus, there is a realtively big mustang show up in san jose in may-ish, I be i could talk to some of the terminator guys there too.
I wish I was rich lol
lolI'll have to spend time acquiring my resources and seeing where i can get it done. I know I can't afford a shop to do it, and I need to make sure wherever i Do do it has all the necc tools and such. I also wanna make sure i have someone around who knows what he's doing lol. I think I may also get my shifter setup done, and maybe even try and get some more ponies under the hood before I do thisswap. Plus, there is a realtively big mustang show up in san jose in may-ish, I be i could talk to some of the terminator guys there too.
I wish I was rich lol
3/14/07, 03:04 PM
#64
Needs to be more Astony
If they are into drag racing then they will see the value in it. Some of thee guys are looking for people that are willing to swap for their IRS as much as you want to swap from the solid rear.
3/14/07, 04:35 PM
#65
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3/14/07, 04:58 PM
#66
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In other news... does anyone know what size hex wrench I need for the trim around the shift boot? I plan on changing my shift ****, and i am under the assumption I have to remove the trim and boot first. I tried my metric set , 1.5mm is too small, 2mm is too big, and there is nothing in the standard set that fits either!
in other other news, the people at kragen are not very bright. how hard is it to use a coupon code?!
in other other news, the people at kragen are not very bright. how hard is it to use a coupon code?!
3/14/07, 05:30 PM
#67
Needs to be more Astony
Arin the whole surround panel comes out so you do not need to do anything to that trim.
here is made a picture...take **** off and then the whole bottom peice
here is made a picture...take **** off and then the whole bottom peice
3/14/07, 05:36 PM
#68
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Oh dear, I am a moron. I dont even need to take the thing off! The shift **** twists right off!!!!
But just for future reference, how does it come off?
But just for future reference, how does it come off?
3/14/07, 05:45 PM
#69
Needs to be more Astony
there are some small clips...i don't know exactly where they are..maybe you can doa search...but you have to be very careful becuase they snap extremely easy.
3/14/07, 06:04 PM
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And yes I think the shift **** just un screws then remove the trim like Chris said, but be careful those clips can break pretty easy. then the shifter lifts right up and over the stick. But if you are only changing the shifter ball, then you should only have to unscrew it and put the new one on, no need to risk ruining the trim around it if you don't have too.
3/14/07, 08:58 PM
#73
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Gotta agree 
3/15/07, 08:57 AM
#76
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You never know when that might be neccessary!
On a more serious note, the IRS just makes the everday handling of the car much better and to me driving around town or just out crusing is much more enjoyable with the IRS than the solid rear. The car just feels more planted and the common bumps in the road are taken so mcuh better.
3/15/07, 09:03 AM
#77
Needs to be more Astony
This is true, the IRS does make the ride nicer on unsmooth roads. The solid rear jumps sideways when hitting bumps on a turn.
IRS is certainly not nessessary but it is nice.
I wouldn't do it on my car becasue i like to keep weight down and perfer straight line speed to cornering.
IRS is certainly not nessessary but it is nice.
I wouldn't do it on my car becasue i like to keep weight down and perfer straight line speed to cornering.
3/15/07, 10:23 AM
#78
Congrats on the car Arin. Proud for you and jealous at the same time.
I've been behind hte wheel of a few bullitts and they are great cars from the start. A few things I would change personally would be (in no particular order, except for tuner, do it last):
lower control arms, For street and some strip, i really like the ones with urethane bushings on the chassis side and spherical bearing on the axle. They provide great support yet dont completely destroy ride comfort. I've used MM stuff before and its great. The ones from BMR also look promising, but they only have then with radial bushings on both sides instead of poly/bushing setup like MM. It would be a tough call for me.
Sumframe connectors, the reason i say these is because hte factory ones are a thin mild steel and while they help, arent nearly as strong as aftermarket ones. Compare the ones shown here from BMR to your stock ones, you'll understand. Plus being a low mileage car, this will help the car out tremendously in the long run in keeping its body panel alignment and minimizing squeeks adn rattles.
Shifter.. your prefrence here, steeda, pro5.0 and MGW are all great (i had a pro5.0, but thought about going to steeda tri-ax).
Exhaust - Keep your stock catback, its got a great sound as is, but open it up with a Magnaflow catted x-pipe. You'll get more power, bit better/louder sound, and a nicer rumble at idle. I am one of Magnaflows biggest fans, but its because they make top quality stuff.
Gears - Depends on what you want for the car. If you want a cruiser that you can hit the curves with, I would go 3.73's. Its going to keep you a bit lower in rpm's in cruise speed over 4.10's, but not quite as agressive in the acceleration aspect. 3.73's are a great all around gear for a 99+ gt based car. 4.10's work awesome as well, but will put you in a higher rpm at cruise speeds. Only a few hundred difference in the 2, but may hurt you a bit more in the mpg department. Im just thinking about it from a teenagers standpoint where money might be a concern (fuel wise).
Order tuner at this point before gears are installed. Have the tuner already set for the gears you are having put in. You'll want the tuner to recalibrate the car for the new gears so you dont put excessive miles on the odo that you really didnt drive. (also to know how fast you are really going).
Tuner -- Get with Doug at Bamachips and have him build you a tune. It will be a night and day difference in the car He will be able to flatten out the a/f curve, to get you as effecient as possible in daily driving, but also help you make peak power when WOT. He will also increase timing in the car (safely) to help with the power department. Other things the tuner can do is turn off the rear o2 sensors.. even with a aftermarket hi-flow catted pipe (like the magnaflow), it may flow more than the sensors like and throw a CEL off. Wont hurt anything, but turning off in the ECU is a good thing IMO. Also cooling will be effected, turning the fans on earlier to keep the engine running cooler, another good thing.
I cant think of anything else around the tuner right now, but I am sure there is more.
Looks wise, mach 1 chin spoiler is a definite, maybe the grill delete, but other than that, you have a great car that looks awesome as is. Also some deep dish bullitt wheels on teh back would make a nice compliment.
Anyquestions, hollar.
I've been behind hte wheel of a few bullitts and they are great cars from the start. A few things I would change personally would be (in no particular order, except for tuner, do it last):
lower control arms, For street and some strip, i really like the ones with urethane bushings on the chassis side and spherical bearing on the axle. They provide great support yet dont completely destroy ride comfort. I've used MM stuff before and its great. The ones from BMR also look promising, but they only have then with radial bushings on both sides instead of poly/bushing setup like MM. It would be a tough call for me.
Sumframe connectors, the reason i say these is because hte factory ones are a thin mild steel and while they help, arent nearly as strong as aftermarket ones. Compare the ones shown here from BMR to your stock ones, you'll understand. Plus being a low mileage car, this will help the car out tremendously in the long run in keeping its body panel alignment and minimizing squeeks adn rattles.
Shifter.. your prefrence here, steeda, pro5.0 and MGW are all great (i had a pro5.0, but thought about going to steeda tri-ax).
Exhaust - Keep your stock catback, its got a great sound as is, but open it up with a Magnaflow catted x-pipe. You'll get more power, bit better/louder sound, and a nicer rumble at idle. I am one of Magnaflows biggest fans, but its because they make top quality stuff.
Gears - Depends on what you want for the car. If you want a cruiser that you can hit the curves with, I would go 3.73's. Its going to keep you a bit lower in rpm's in cruise speed over 4.10's, but not quite as agressive in the acceleration aspect. 3.73's are a great all around gear for a 99+ gt based car. 4.10's work awesome as well, but will put you in a higher rpm at cruise speeds. Only a few hundred difference in the 2, but may hurt you a bit more in the mpg department. Im just thinking about it from a teenagers standpoint where money might be a concern (fuel wise).
Order tuner at this point before gears are installed. Have the tuner already set for the gears you are having put in. You'll want the tuner to recalibrate the car for the new gears so you dont put excessive miles on the odo that you really didnt drive. (also to know how fast you are really going).
Tuner -- Get with Doug at Bamachips and have him build you a tune. It will be a night and day difference in the car He will be able to flatten out the a/f curve, to get you as effecient as possible in daily driving, but also help you make peak power when WOT. He will also increase timing in the car (safely) to help with the power department. Other things the tuner can do is turn off the rear o2 sensors.. even with a aftermarket hi-flow catted pipe (like the magnaflow), it may flow more than the sensors like and throw a CEL off. Wont hurt anything, but turning off in the ECU is a good thing IMO. Also cooling will be effected, turning the fans on earlier to keep the engine running cooler, another good thing.
I cant think of anything else around the tuner right now, but I am sure there is more.
Looks wise, mach 1 chin spoiler is a definite, maybe the grill delete, but other than that, you have a great car that looks awesome as is. Also some deep dish bullitt wheels on teh back would make a nice compliment.
Anyquestions, hollar.
3/15/07, 04:14 PM
#79
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Thanks for the advice Scott!
So far I havent really gotten any "real" mods. I bought a Hurst T-handle for the car, and I'm ordering a used Hurst shift stick from eBay in just a little while. I doubt it will do much for actually shortening the throw, but I do think it looks pretty sweet. As soon as I save up enough, the Steeda Tri-ax will be next.
I'm pretty fine with the stock gearset, I occasionally have trouble with traction as it is
I do like those subframe connectors though... I may have to ante up on mine. If I pulled mine off to install the new ones, would they bolt up to other 99-04s? I imagine so.. what about 94-98s?
As for wheels, what I'd really like is to find someone with a stock Mach 1 set who wants to trade I'm also with you on the Mach 1 Chin and Grille Delete.
For my engine, I'll probablt stick to just getting a JLT CAI and a tune from Dough.
I had no plans for exhaust, but thanks for the heads up on the magnaflow X-Pipe. May have to go that route.
It's a great feeling having a car I can actually find parts for lol. Now to earn up the dough to not only make my payments on it, but also to get me some go-fast goodies
So far I havent really gotten any "real" mods. I bought a Hurst T-handle for the car, and I'm ordering a used Hurst shift stick from eBay in just a little while. I doubt it will do much for actually shortening the throw, but I do think it looks pretty sweet. As soon as I save up enough, the Steeda Tri-ax will be next.
I'm pretty fine with the stock gearset, I occasionally have trouble with traction as it is
I do like those subframe connectors though... I may have to ante up on mine. If I pulled mine off to install the new ones, would they bolt up to other 99-04s? I imagine so.. what about 94-98s?
As for wheels, what I'd really like is to find someone with a stock Mach 1 set who wants to trade
I'm also with you on the Mach 1 Chin and Grille Delete.For my engine, I'll probablt stick to just getting a JLT CAI and a tune from Dough.
I had no plans for exhaust, but thanks for the heads up on the magnaflow X-Pipe. May have to go that route.
It's a great feeling having a car I can actually find parts for lol. Now to earn up the dough to not only make my payments on it, but also to get me some go-fast goodies
3/16/07, 06:53 AM
#80
Your stock subframes would go on a 99-01 GT, not sure about a 94-98 style, definitely not a 96-98 cobra. However, I wouldnt worry with it as I would go with stronger units that weld on, just like I recommended to you.
Also remember that when you have subframes installed, the car needs to be on a drive on lift preferrably, so that your car is sitting on its own weight in the normal position it is in. That way the body isnt flexed into an un-natural position.
Also remember that when you have subframes installed, the car needs to be on a drive on lift preferrably, so that your car is sitting on its own weight in the normal position it is in. That way the body isnt flexed into an un-natural position.