data174

Yes it has the chrome rings. Still confused on the audio plug to the buttons on the first wpt1242 connector.
I understand the second wpt1242 connectors and were the wires go to the jp#1 at the acm.
Reason I say that is that if you cut off the original connector and the only splice the 5 wires for the lights and cc. That makes all the wire to the audio vacant.
Looks like I am missing something.

akdoggie

Oh ok. You are talking about the clockspring under the steering wheel.

At the bottom of the clockspring (strg wheel in normal position) you will see the little white or black cap that pulls out. It covers the spot the WPT connector fits. The second one goes into the underneath the clock spring. Both are shown in the pictures in the pdf.

I didn't show how to hook up the strg wheel itself, as there are numerous write ups on the 5 pin connector. I just showed how to hook up everything under that, which no one else has posted, that I can find. People talked about adding the WPT connector but never really showed how to do it. That is what I did with this.

If you need the info on the 5 pin switch, try this. https://themustangsource.com/f692/bo...-05-gt-501629/

akdoggie

I will add the steering wheel internal wpt1242 info soon. I tried tonight but lost the pdf. lol.

data174

akdoggie,
I removed some of the pin connectors out of my Bluetooth GO2B. They are a pain to remove,but I removed six for the J#1 plug.
The wheel should arrive Thursday.

Thanks,Al

VGMStudios

So I started this mod and I am a bit confused. In the guide near the beginning, you mention "Separate the two sides and leave the red and black wires together (don’t cut)" Separate what two? Do you mean the wire harness that was inside the wheel??
thanks.

data174

VGMStudios,

When you unplug the harness you will have three leads.
1) From the cruise control switches (left)
2) From the audio control switche (right)
3) The main connector plugged into clock spring at 12 oclock

The cruise control switch and audio control switch both have red and black wires. Those are the wires you do not want to cut. Then follow the instructions.

Good Luck, Al

I have not started the modifications yet, waiting for my wheel and wire assembly.

akdoggie

On the steering wheel right audio switch, take the blue, yellow, green and purple and use them to connect to your WPT1242 connections in the upper clockspring (steering wheel lower center). Do not cut the red or black wires. Leave them connected to the ones on the left switch. No reason to cut it and have to resplice it. The WPT1242 plugs in under the horn plate, into the clockspring at the 6 o'clock position. The 5 pin for the cruise control hooks where the original 5 pin plug was plugged in at the 12 o'clock position.

akdoggie

Here is a picture of the right side switch controls, using the WPT1242 connector. The colors for the wires that I used are listed. I left the side wires loose, in case I wanted to add anythib=ng later. I used the 4 wires in the middle to pair the wiring. Yellow and Green, Blue & Purple pairs. Hope this clears up any questions.

akdoggie

Here is a picture of the clock spring and where the 2 WPT1242's plug into it. The 5 pin connector the the cruise control plugs in between the two yellow air bag wires.

VGMStudios

I was leaning towards that. I just wanted to make sure I was right. Thank you Al and Akdoggie for the clarification.
I know I will have more questions down the line. haha.

akdoggie

Here is the J1 plug, showing where the harness from the clock spring (WPT1242) wires plug in. It also gives you the position to plug you wire in for the infamous DTC U2473 code, that says the Navigation is needing servicing and repair. This isn't a necessary add on, but does help eliminate one of the common DTC's, that plague the Navigation units in the 2005-09 Mustangs. Especially the V6 models, without ABS and traction control.

akdoggie

The number 14 wire (marked in green on the above picture) is for the VSS circuit for our Navigation radios. It is attached to the PCM (under the hood to the #3 wire position. It is the dark blue with yellow stripe wire) and the wire is run into the dash and attaches into the #14 slot in J1 of the ACM plug. This can be an 18 gauge wire that is run to this slot. Doing this will take the U2473 DTC and not have to worry about that each time you start up your car.

After installing, clear all your DTC's and see what pops up later. This DTC seems to be the one that is always present, so it is nice to get rid of. Hope this helps you guys with another of the problems of updating our cars. Good luck.

Notice: Again, just to be safe. Please only do this if you feel you have the ability. I am not, and will not be responsible if someone should make a mistake. This was written by using a lot of research and a bit of trial and error. That said, this being a Ford radio, we all know there are many variations, so please do this modification with care and proper head research. Some will work immediately, some require a bit of programming, and some just won't work at all (programming from the factory for any particular radio head used). The responsibility lies with the owner of the car or the mechanic doing the work. This is a reference only. Do any modifications at your own risk.

(I think that covers the legal crap) lol.

data174

akdoggie,

When I wired the 5 pin to the to the new harness on the gt500 wheel I ended up with 2 ground wires plus the red connector to horn plate. I grounded both to the screw.
Since they are both grounds I did not thinks it would make any difference.

VGMStudios

akdoggie, did you get my email?
Would my unit need reprogramming?

So to make things clear since Im using a Nav unit I am only using plug 16 to 19.
My question is since I soldered the first WPT1242 using wires 2 to 4 as Yellow Blue Green Purple, what wire does what? I mean how would I fix up the 2nd WPT1242?
This is the part were I am a little confused about. Does wire 2 on the first WPT1242 match up with plug 16 on the 2nd WPT1242, wire 3 plug 17, wire 4 plug 18, wire 5 plug 19?

VGMStudios

I noticed this too, what I did was cut off the newer eyelid adapter and left the one original one in the plug. But connecting both is a good alternative.

VGMStudios

Just want to clarify something. If you lock the pins into place and need to change them, I found out that you do not have to cut the wire to remove it.

The red piece on the front of the connecter can come off fairly easily. Once its off, there is a tab on top of each pin. Using something thin and long (I used a long Exacto blade) push the tab up and the wire/pin will slide right out. Ill get some pics if anyone is interested.

data174

I do not think that it is a good I dea to change the position of the plug wires to the audio buttons. All your changes should be done with the new connector and the position you plug them in to the acm. i.e. 16,17,18 and 19.
Yes, I found that removing the end cap makes it easier to remove the wire.
Did you pick some pins up for the J#1 connector.?

VGMStudios

Oh no I didnt change anything. When I bought the Nav unit it came with the 3 pigtails. Since the wire was cut I used the extra pins out of those pigtails for my harness.

I have a lot extra now. If you need any, LMK.

data174

Well, my radio was delivered today and I rushed to make a quick installation. Bad news my audio buttons do not work. I havent have a chance to drive the car and test the cruise control. Unfortunately I have to leave town for a few day and wont be able to do some research.

akdoggie

1st off guys, there is a reason Ford put the two different ground wires inside the column. Mounting both, to a single spot may not make your horn work, which could also have something to do with the air bag. Bad idea. Put it like it was.

Data. Did you check the wires with the meter like I suggested to make sure you have everything correct? I know you were in a hurry, but the system will work. Mine plays fine. Works like a champ. You have something not quite right. Double check--StateFarm style. lol I had to a couple times before I had everything 100% correct. I had two backwards at first, which had to be switched around, (that was what I was saying about having to take things apart or cut the wire to make it right). I had the 4 & 5 wires, so I just cut them and left about 4" incase I ever went back to the Shaker. I then added the new ends and did the 17 and 16 wires. That's when I had it figured out. It was trial and error times 10 but I finally got the things to work right and more than satisfied. OHM the wires for the correct combination. That is what you need to do. If not, I can't tell you any more. You have to get them right.

Good luck. with the projects. I'm going to gone for the next three weeks. Finally a vacation. TaDa

AND put both ground wires where they were in the first place. Not all to the ground bolt.