Adding 2008-2009 Mustang Factory Ambient Lighting
#21
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
It works! And its pretty cool! And I even wired it the way the factory has it. I'll post pics soon. There is some modifying involved:
to connect the front LEDs to the harness under the cupholder I had to make a new harness. But since I can't buy the right electrical connectors, I went to the wreckers and pulled some out for $2 and replaced the pigtail ends from the harness and the front LEDs with the wrecker ones.
Also, I had to rig something so there was a place to put the front LEDs - which I haven't done yet. I might just have them come out from the sides.
Full instructions to come.
Cheers
to connect the front LEDs to the harness under the cupholder I had to make a new harness. But since I can't buy the right electrical connectors, I went to the wreckers and pulled some out for $2 and replaced the pigtail ends from the harness and the front LEDs with the wrecker ones.
Also, I had to rig something so there was a place to put the front LEDs - which I haven't done yet. I might just have them come out from the sides.
Full instructions to come.
Cheers
#23
Shelby GT350 Member
It works! And its pretty cool! And I even wired it the way the factory has it. I'll post pics soon. There is some modifying involved:
to connect the front LEDs to the harness under the cupholder I had to make a new harness. But since I can't buy the right electrical connectors, I went to the wreckers and pulled some out for $2 and replaced the pigtail ends from the harness and the front LEDs with the wrecker ones.
Also, I had to rig something so there was a place to put the front LEDs - which I haven't done yet. I might just have them come out from the sides.
Full instructions to come.
Cheers
to connect the front LEDs to the harness under the cupholder I had to make a new harness. But since I can't buy the right electrical connectors, I went to the wreckers and pulled some out for $2 and replaced the pigtail ends from the harness and the front LEDs with the wrecker ones.
Also, I had to rig something so there was a place to put the front LEDs - which I haven't done yet. I might just have them come out from the sides.
Full instructions to come.
Cheers
I do know the accessory ambient lighting system by Ford uses a long tube with LED's in them which are held in place with zip ties. The factory system uses the single LED lights that mount into the holes in the tab brackets.
Somehow you will figure it out I am sure, but man do I like the fact that you have the figure 8 cupholder lighting. If I ever get some money I can throw away I might just but the parts and convert mine. I am however waiting to see what goodies I might like that may retrofit from the new 2010 models.
#24
Shelby GT350 Member
It works! And its pretty cool! And I even wired it the way the factory has it. I'll post pics soon. There is some modifying involved:
to connect the front LEDs to the harness under the cupholder I had to make a new harness. But since I can't buy the right electrical connectors, I went to the wreckers and pulled some out for $2 and replaced the pigtail ends from the harness and the front LEDs with the wrecker ones.
Also, I had to rig something so there was a place to put the front LEDs - which I haven't done yet. I might just have them come out from the sides.
Full instructions to come.
Cheers
to connect the front LEDs to the harness under the cupholder I had to make a new harness. But since I can't buy the right electrical connectors, I went to the wreckers and pulled some out for $2 and replaced the pigtail ends from the harness and the front LEDs with the wrecker ones.
Also, I had to rig something so there was a place to put the front LEDs - which I haven't done yet. I might just have them come out from the sides.
Full instructions to come.
Cheers
Not relavent to the placement I have of my LED lights, I did notice that if I put my foil sunshade in the passenger footwell the LED lights blind me when I turn the lights on at night. I simply have to relocate the sunshade into the back seat.
Also, with my single LED cupholder light facing the forward part of the cupholder from the rear, if I stick a cell phone or anything else into the cupholder I have to be careful how I postion it or it will create distracting light right up into my eye.
The LED lights I have are so bright I have to dim the dash lights down quite a bit to keep the footwell lights from being distracting while driving.
Last edited by watchdevil; 6/14/08 at 06:31 PM.
#25
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
OK, putting together ther rear LEDS, cup holder and harnesses is easy as it just all snaps together in only one way. You will need to enlarge the bottom console (if you don't buy a new one) to make sure the cupholder w/processor and swith fit. See post #7.
The processor is screwed onto the bottom of the cupholder. Again, you will need to get your own screws. I used 6 x 7/16 screws.
The processor is screwed onto the bottom of the cupholder. Again, you will need to get your own screws. I used 6 x 7/16 screws.
Last edited by jim010; 6/14/08 at 11:19 PM.
#26
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Next I got 3 10-pin electrical connectors (must have 3 sets of male/female). I then took the 10-pin connector from the cupholder harness and cut it off and spliced one of the female connectors I got from the wreckers. I made sure that the wires went to the same pin # as it did before. The one on the left is the original.
I did this b/c I didn't have the same male connectors I needed to be able to plug in.
I did this b/c I didn't have the same male connectors I needed to be able to plug in.
Last edited by jim010; 6/14/08 at 10:17 PM.
#27
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
I then did this w/ both the 4-pin connectors for the front LEDs - again using the female connectors.
Be sure that the wires go to the same pin #s as the original connectors.
Be sure that the wires go to the same pin #s as the original connectors.
Last edited by jim010; 6/14/08 at 10:24 PM.
#28
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Now I made the harness that would connect the console to the front LEDs. The length will depend on where you plan to put the front LEDs.
Since I used the same female connectors for the front LEDs and the cupholder harness, all 3 male connectors were also the same.
x2 means that 2 wires need to leave the console connector in order to split off
Console connector to Front LED connector
pin 5 pin 4 x2 make wire (~80cm long depending on where light is to go)
pin 6 pin 1 x2 make wire (~80cm long depending on where light is to go)
pin 7 pin 2 x2 make wire (~80cm long depending on where light is to go)
pin 8 pin 3 x2 make wire (~80cm long depending on where light is to go)
pin 10 tap into black wire from auto tranny connector (~10cm long)
pin 2 tap into light blue/red wire from auto tranny connector (~10cm long)
pin 1 tap into blue w/ yellow stripe wire from smart junction box (~2m long - see below)
the blue and green wire out of the bottom you see will tap into the tranny connector, and the red out the top will go to the SJB
Since I used the same female connectors for the front LEDs and the cupholder harness, all 3 male connectors were also the same.
x2 means that 2 wires need to leave the console connector in order to split off
Console connector to Front LED connector
pin 5 pin 4 x2 make wire (~80cm long depending on where light is to go)
pin 6 pin 1 x2 make wire (~80cm long depending on where light is to go)
pin 7 pin 2 x2 make wire (~80cm long depending on where light is to go)
pin 8 pin 3 x2 make wire (~80cm long depending on where light is to go)
pin 10 tap into black wire from auto tranny connector (~10cm long)
pin 2 tap into light blue/red wire from auto tranny connector (~10cm long)
pin 1 tap into blue w/ yellow stripe wire from smart junction box (~2m long - see below)
the blue and green wire out of the bottom you see will tap into the tranny connector, and the red out the top will go to the SJB
Last edited by jim010; 6/14/08 at 11:22 PM.
#29
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
The picture on the left is the tap into the auto tranny wires. On manual cars, this may be loose. I unplugged it here for better access.
Last edited by jim010; 6/14/08 at 11:01 PM.
#30
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
To get to the SJB was more of a pain. SJB is smart junction box, and it is on the left side of the passenger foot well. To get at it, you'll need to remove the kick panel. Lift the panel with 'Mustang' printed on it (don't know what its called) at the end where the kick panel goes under it. Pull the kick panel in towards the inside to unhook it, then pull it towards the back of the car. Expect to wrangle it a bit.
Next, there is a bolt at the bottom of the SJB - unscrew it and pull out the SJB from the bottom, as it is hooked in at the top. You need to get at the back of the SJB.
This is the front of the SJB.
Next, there is a bolt at the bottom of the SJB - unscrew it and pull out the SJB from the bottom, as it is hooked in at the top. You need to get at the back of the SJB.
This is the front of the SJB.
Last edited by jim010; 6/14/08 at 11:23 PM.
#31
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
If you can twist the f*&^ing box around, you will see this connector plugged into the back (careful, as there is one just like it plugged into the front.) Look for the blue w/ yellow stripe wire and tap into it. This wire comes from pin#5 (if you can get the cover off - I couldn't).
#33
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
These didn't come out too good (I don't know how to use that camera to any good effect!), but it really looks neat. I like it! Now to change the interior color of the car to black!
Cheers!
Cheers!
#36
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
Once I finish with the RGB switch / AC kit redesign (2-3 months) I can send you a kit to see if it can be controlled by the factory processor.
#37
Shelby GT350 Member
Join Date: September 11, 2006
Location: Cumming, GA
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I stopped by a local electronics store and they have 12 pin Molex connectors that will work. Includes all the pins necessary and both male and female side for a really nice clean install. Just gott get all the parts now.
#38
Legacy TMS Member
Thread Starter
I stopped by a local electronics store and they have 12 pin Molex connectors that will work. Includes all the pins necessary and both male and female side for a really nice clean install. Just gott get all the parts now.
Cheers
#39
Legacy TMS Member
I'm just curious here... does this only come on with the lights on, or is it also triggered by the doors being opened? For the footwell lights, is why I'm curious about it. My car is a *cave* being all black, so if they came on with the doors... Bonus!
I'm sure I could just find an 08-09 somewhere and open the door... but who's got the time?
I'm sure I could just find an 08-09 somewhere and open the door... but who's got the time?
#40
Join Date: May 31, 2007
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I'm just curious here... does this only come on with the lights on, or is it also triggered by the doors being opened? For the footwell lights, is why I'm curious about it. My car is a *cave* being all black, so if they came on with the doors... Bonus!
I'm sure I could just find an 08-09 somewhere and open the door... but who's got the time?
I'm sure I could just find an 08-09 somewhere and open the door... but who's got the time?