Wheel Hop Problems.
 

I started getting this recently and i am trying to diagnose what could be causing this. My 05 GT puts out around 355hp (not sure haven't had it dyno'd since i added the high flow inlet and an X-Pipe). Problem is on hard acceleration from a stop i get wheel hop in the higher RPM. I don't know if it's traction issues causing it since i'm on stock tires still, but if i mash the peddle at about 10mph my tires will spin all the way through first gear or until recently, i start getting the hop at which i back out on the throttle. I'm trying to figure if the last two upgrades nudged it past the border at which i was or if there is another more mechanical cause for this.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

The stock rear lower and upper control arm bushings are comprised of soft rubber and are very good at suppressing NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) but give too much to prevent wheel hop under heavy acceleration. Replacing the lower control arms with aftermarket ones utilizing urethane bushings will get rid of most of the rear wheel hop. Replacing LCA's is cheap and fairly easy to do if you have a torque wrench capable of doing 129 lb ft. Takes about an hour to do.

If you want to get rid of all of the wheel hop you'll also need to replace the upper control arm. Not quite as easy to do but fairly cheap and takes about 1-1.5 hrs.

Something to consider prior to buying the parts is if your car is at stock ride height or if it is (or going to be) lowered. If you don't think you'll ever lower the car you can buy fixed length LCA's and UCA. If your car is already lowered or you plan on lowering it at a later date then either the LCA's or the UCA will need to be the adjustable type so that pinion angle can be corrected. You'll also need an adjustable panhard bar to keep the rear axle centered once the vehicle is lowered.

CHE ( http://www.cheperformance.com/cartge...sp?category=15 ) and BMR ( http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005Mustang.htm ) are probably the most cost-effective brands but Steeda and numerous other companies all make suspension parts, you may want to run a search to get other peoples opinions. I've got CHE rear suspension parts and they handle my supercharged HP level just fine.

i think eat.the.rude got it covered, but 355 hp at the crank or at the wheel with only a CAI and and X-pipe sounds a bit optimistic :S

i'm still researching for a solution for wheel hop myself.. good luck whatever you choose and keep us posted ;)

I don't think 355-360hp is optimistic at all. Assuming an 18% loss through the driveline, that would put the RWHP right at 295-300 or so. Sounds right to me.

Assuming dynojets are accurate, most of these cars are putting down 265 to the tires stock. Which is more like 320 at the crank. Not the ford claimed 300.

I was around 300 rwhp (rear wheel horsepower) without the high flow inlet tube and X-Pipe and if i remember around 320 torque. The 355hp was not my rear wheel hp. I was figuring 15% loss due to being a standard. I know i have to be over 350 mark because i can put down a C5 with an exhaust on the highway with no problems. And we all know driver mod not as important on a roll.

FYI my mods:
Steed CAI
Steeda High Flow Inlet Tube
Steeda UDP
Borla Cat-back
93 Custom Tune
Ford Racing X-Pipe

Electric Water Pump next to go on. But may have to lower and buy the adjustable LCA and Panhard bar first.

I have the same mods as you accept for the x-pipe and my dyno numbers are posted. I figure I have about 325-29 hp at the crank based on those mods. I don't think an x-pipe will boost you up that high (355).

If you got 281hp with those mods you are not even around 325, probably more so 320. I would try a custom tune instead of a mailed one. I was sitting about 10rwhp higher than you. You got a pretty bad tune to have almost the same mods and put out numbers that low or maybe you mustang is an underperformer or you dyno'd on a bad day, sorry about your numbers. I do notice you don't have pullies listed in your mods or Borla exhaust. Not splitting hairs but you don't have it. And Ford documents and states 6hp avg gain off pipe. Not every mustang rolls off the factory with the same specs. I've been blessed with having a very good mustang GT (knock on wood).

But yep around 355, and i stand firm on it. A good litmus test is my example of a C5 Corvette w/ exhaust on the highway, has nothing to do with who is quicker off the line - it's about who's legs can stretch longer. And LS1 SS Camaros/TAs are a joke in their stock form.

But thats not the point of this thread since we all know those mods can get most people to between 340-350. The point is the wheel hop.

Sorry man, I don't see where you get 55 hp from.
CAI + Custom Tune = 25-30hp
Inlet tube, doesn't that go along with the CAI??? = 0 hp
UDP = 5hp
Borlas = 0hp
X Pipe = 5-8hp
That shows about 35-43 hp. Did you have the car dyno'd with these mods on? If so, what was the RWHP? That is what most people use to compare HP, not flywheel HP due to driveline losses.

I installed a Steeda UCA and it soved all my wheel hop issues instantly.

The stock UCA has a lot of flex in it. The install was a PITA, though- very difficult to get the front bolt torqued to specs, due to limited space in there, and you will need some large metric as well as large standard sockets to get at those big bolts! Steeda's replacement bolt has a different head size than the stock bolt.

I see that the Shelby GT LCA is interchangabe with the GT and the UCA bushes as well. These are tuned more for the GT500 set up.

:popcorn:

No sorry the inlet tube did not go with it. It wasn't even invented when i bought the Kit, and it was a 25-30hp tune then. The inlet tube added 8hp. Borla added roughly 4hp, yes it was one less than what Borla stated but hey a gain is a gain. you would be amazed at the kinks in the stock pipe vs an aftermarket. Contact them if you want to challenge it, not me.
Pulley set was more than 5hp, you can get up to 10hp from the kit. Again call them if you want to challenge them. X-Pipe, wow 8hp!?! I was only figuring 6hp at most. I had the car dyno'd before the inlet and X-Pipe why i am saying around 355 and i am not sure since i didn't get it dyno'd. Only a fool will dyno for such minor mods. I'll wait till my next real add-ons to see where i am at.

Since we are plugging hp to mods here we go. Eyes on the moving pen please.
CAI + Custom (not canned) Tune= 25-30hp
Add High Flow Inlet = 8hp
X-Pipe = 6hp
Borla = 5hp
UDP = 10hp

Total: 59hp. And i am guessing less than that as their numbers are for optimum conditions.

I may be at 350 hp, but that does not explain how i can put down C5 corvettes, LS1 SS, and TAs. You won't beat them with 330hp and def. not a C5 with even 340hp. All 3 had at the very least an exhaust. If you can explain that and succesfully sue Steeda and Borla for fraud then i am all ears, until then don't try and hijack a thread.

Thanks to everyone else for helping me with my wheel hop issues. I do plan on lowering the vehicle and going for wider tires for extra traction. I don't see why Ford sold the mustang with such skinny tires. Chevy at least put 245s on their tires, why are we always stuck at 235?

04's had 245/45
compared to 235/55 and more HP they went the wrong way with the tire size!

Not getting into the HP arguement, but that would be the 1st muffler HP increase Ive seen reported.

Easiest way to solve this arguement would be to post some slips.

Slips = driver mod. Comes down to who can shift better. These takes i am talking about are at highway speeds where driver mod is not a deciding factor as it is from a standstill. Anyone can say the other person didn't know how to drive, but i have yet to hear that when you are already going at least 70mph.

I'm in the Houston area if anyone with like said mods or a 340-350hp vehicle at least the weight of a vette would like to run some tests. Feel free to PM me.

Dyno racing rocks!

Get it dyno'd and we'll all agree.

When you get it dyno'd and it shows a 59hp increase over stock, I'll believe you. Until then, not so much.

At some point you must have thought i care what you believe. I firmly believe i am around 355, it may turn out 350 but it is definitely over 345hp and definitely less that 360hp.

Send me the money for a dyno and i will. PM me and I can give you my paypal information it will run around 100 bucks. If it matters so much to you then cough it up. Put up or shut up I say.


Until then stop trolling and stay on topic.

Believe what you want. Back to topic.

Prove it or stuff it IMO.