Ok, So i installed the Eibach pro kit, and then my front end made some horrible popping sounds...So i bought Tokico struts, thinking it was the strut...well it still made the popping sound on the bumbs, so then i bought the JM Caster/Camber plates...and i just installed them...Well it cut out alot of the popping, but there is still some popping sounds when i go over some bumbs....is there something i missing? i mean im so tired of this sound...All i wanted to do was spend 250 on the kit and now im about 900 invested! i mean is there like something i need to tighten..or something..im so clueless, and its so embarrasing, my car sounds like a clunker!!!

 

If your car is an 07-earlier, it may have the old style strut mount. Then again you probably changed them with the Tokico struts.

 

what do you mean strut mount? i replaced the caster/camber plates, is that what your talking about? i feel like something is done wrong, because everyone says how replacing these plates eliminates the popping sound immediately, but not for me....i really think something is terribly wrong, and it really pisses me off!

 

So im no expert but when does the popping sound occur?

 

From the posts I've read, anytime struts are replaced most people get the stronger strut mounts. Steeda I think? Specifically because of the 'popping' with the stock mounts when stronger dampers are installed.

 

i bought the J&M Caster/Camber Plates....which i believe are strut mounts, im not sure if they are or not...And the popping comes only when i hit bumbs, it is mainly on the right side

 

Sounds like you need the strut mounts in addition to the caster/camber plates. I can't get the picture to copy but give a look:

Product Details
Finally, a heavy duty, direct replacement upper strut mount to replace the weak factory mounts for S197 Mustangs that can be used on the street!

The Steeda street heavy duty upper strut mounts are manufactured to the same exacting tolerances as our industry leading caster/camber plates. They utilize a roller bearing that exceeds OEM specs to ensure precise suspension control. Will not fail on lowered cars like the factory piece.

These upper mounts eliminate the "popping" sound that is common on lowered cars when the factory upper mount fails. Unlike the factory piece, you can also get an extra 1 degree of camber in each direction with these plates as well. Steeda's heavy duty upper mounts are specifically designed for street use and will not show any increase in NVH when installed.Price includes a set of two.
http://www.steeda.com/products/heavy...nts_street.php

 

those look identical to the caster/camber plates i bought....look at these for me, http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-c...er-plates.html

 

I'm probably not much help because I've never replaced them hands on and am just going by all the threads (that used to be here) about people getting the stronger strut mounts to eliminate popping.

However, I read the directions on your link and it sure looks like the Steeda unit. One custmoer's comments even said it removed the popping for him. Might have to give them a call and ask potential issues.

Could the left side have been mounted differently from the right side by accident?

"Note* The J&M camber plate can be installed in a Street or Race setting, to install it in a street setting, install the plate so that the notch on the top of the plate is facing the engine bay. To install in a race setting install the notch facing the fender."

 

Take a picture with the wheel off on one side just to take a look. I had the same problem on mine and found I did noy torck this one piece that go's from the strut to the stabalizer bar its a grey piece to the left of the shock when looking at it. Do both sides make the poping sound or just one?

 

i found it!!! hahahahahha it was that bar...it was loose, that attaches the front sway bar, to the strut!!

 

way to go team TMS!!!

 

Torque specs FTW!

 

Yes, to get the front sway bar tight, you have to keep the impact on the nut for what seems like an eternity. But it always fixes it.

 

Glad I could help

 

I had the same problem and cured it with some blue Loctite.

 

So the endlinks were lose?

 

Was it your sway bar end link? If it is how would you torque it if you have to keep a wrench on the end of it to keep from spinning.

 

well it was loose, on the nut on the actual sway bar, and i agree about the torque'n so i just tighted it as much as i could lol

 

I actually had the popping with my Eibach pro springs. It was the fact that I failed at putting the dust guards on. I took to my friend at local sears auto, and he caught it.