I am thinking about ordering a set of these when on order my air intake and tuner. This set come with 3 pulley's and the BBK kit comes with only 2. Does anyone know if the Saleen kit makes more power than the BBk? Also is it the power gain on the Saleen kit really worth another $50?

Here is a list of the mods I plan to buy soon:
C&L Racer Intake and SCT Tuner
Saleen or BBK underdrive pulley's
BBK Twin 62mm T-Body

What do you all think??

 

I am running the Saleen UDP and used only the Water pump and Crank pulleys, I didn't install the Alt pulley, C&L intake and Diablo tuner. I like it.

 

I have Roush underdrive pulleys. So out of the 2 Saleen or BBK I would chose Saleen. I know they are not the piggy back style. You don't want the piggy back style.

The C&L Racer would be a good choice. I would use Doug @ BamaChips for the tuneing. He tuned my car and I love it! I made 298 rwhp with his tune, pulleys, JLT and pypes axle back with a magnaflow high flow catted x pipe and no long tubes.

 

I use/normally recommend Steeda pulleys. In fact I've take to keeping a set around based on how they worked for my car. I like them for a few simple, not fancy reasons. SFI approved, aren't as costly as some of the others, and the fact that Steeda benefits from Ford's Technology transfer meaning they have the specs on the torsional characteristics of the engine. Seems many forget the "crank pulley" is also a harmonic balancer. And the underdrive, is about 25% freeing up more power than say a 10% underdrive set.

$209/set shipped is what I have them for.

 

I was just thinking about getting the saleen set cause of the alternator pulley. I was just wondering if it made anymore power or not and it is was worth the $50. i looked on the bbk website and they say their pulley is a 1 piece design. but the steeda set is $40 cheaper. what a decision, lol

 

I ran a set of udp on my grand cherokee 5.2 and it eventually drained my battery when I was in college and only drove short distances. For someone that doesn't have much of a commute and only drives a few miles at a time how do they work? I don't want to invest in a jumper box to just to get her to start up.

 

Well, underdrive is just that. If you don't turn any RPM or run any period of time for the alternator to charge, then you could have an issue. Bottom line is the way you are freeing up power is by driving the accessories slower--including the alternator.

Since you are turning about 25% less accessory RPM the car will charge just like you were running 25% less engine RPM.

 

I can recommend those Saleen pulleys. I've had them on my '05 for more than three years. No problems. They're not going to give you a big gain, but they do free up a few ponies. Make sure you put them on correctly, or find somebody who knows how.

 

cool, i will be ordering everything here soon. i should get some good numbers out of everything. what do you all think i will be around? everything i will have done are,
long tube headers sct tuner
off road x underdrive pulley's
mac axle backs 62mm t-body
c&l racer intake

i hope to be around 300hp at the wheels. in the spring will be cams and then i hope to get a supercharger.

 

BBK doesn't have a lot to say in the way of information that's for sure. Really pulleys are pretty simple. They have to fit. They have to be balanced. And any power gains comes from the balance and the underdrive. This is why I'd stick with the Steeda set. They aren't a million bucks. They are SFI certified so you know they won't fly apart. They are, at 25%, about as big an underdrive as one would want. And because things like the SCT tuners allow you to raise your idle RPM you generally won't have any issue you can't deal with like say, at night in the rain with the wipers and defroster on full bore.. Just bump the idle RPM some and that'll make sure you charge in those situations.

 

well you have really changed my look on the steeda set. they seem like the right decision.

 

https://themustangsource.com/showthread.php?t=477974

Base run. Max power 298.36 Max Torque 308.55

Mods:

JLT cold air
Roush underdrive pullyes
IMRC delete plates
Magnaflow highflow x pipe
PYPES axle back
3.90 gears
Roush short throw shifter
Dougs @ BamaChips 93 RACE tune

I basicly got 300 rwhp without longtubes or the TB. I have been told not to run a TB. I have the JLT and the C&L Race makes more power than the JLT so you should be right on 300 at the wheels with the same set up as what I've got. I have highflow cats on my car also. So you take off cats that will be more power also.

I added a C&L Intake on my car and it bumped me up to 305.77 rwhp. So with the C&L I went just a little over the 300 mark.

So it can be done pretty easy. I would Call Doug @ BamaChips for the SCT tune.

 

One of the nice things about alternators are they very the load on the engine in relation to the electrical load. There are no permanent magnets in them. The regulation of power conversion is done by adjusting the field current under control of the voltage regulator. When the field current is low as in when the battery is fully charged the power required from the engine at any speed is very low. If you had a switch in side the car to open the circuit for the field the alternator would free wheel.

Likewise running the alternator slow would have the effect of the voltage regulator increasing the current on the field up to its current limits. High current in the field will load up the alternator thus removing any load advantage gained from spinning it slower.

The alternator speed is one thing I would leave alone as it is totally self adjusting.

That leaves the smog, water, ac pump, and an idler pully.

 

Like I said, to a degree they have the same goal. But how they do their job, how well they fit, the balance, etc. is where the differences lie.

I keep a set in stock because they are fairly popular options, especially for the price of $209 shipped.

 

whats the reason for not running the TB??

 

Debateable if it makes much if any power on a NA 4.6... That'd be my guess.

 

Yep. It's alot of money for no Horse power. I talked to different tuners that has dynoed TB's and everyone of them told me they made no horse power.

 

In addition to no HP gain, you will might get poor idle control and maybe a few other problems. I went back to the stock TB in my '96 and it ran fine after that for quite a number of years.

 

cool, what can i get in place of that then??

 

I'm just the black sheep of this thread. I've got BBK pulleys AND an aftermarket TB. I like the pulleys but am going back to stock size damper in favor of a set up I've got in the works