Question for Suspension Experts
Question for Suspension Experts
Hey guys,
Recently installed Foose/Ford Racing Lowering Kit:
Springs, Shocks, struts, swaybar, +panhard bar + strut tower brace (myself) and then alignment
Anywho, I have a few specific questions:
My wheel shimmies left and right and steering is occasional wondering a bit. Just put on new tires (nitto nt555, had them before also).. Shimmy is much better but still there. I am thinking of replacing front control arm bushings.
1. Is this the right move? (Car has 65K miles).
2. Will this require another alignment? (Can't be doing this every day)
3. My camber is ~1.4 degrees. Can I dial that out without camber plates back to around 1? ( I don't want to wear my tires down so fast).
Thank you all in advance. Please let me know any other relevant information that I was too stupid to ask about. Have read the lowering guide start to finish.
Recently installed Foose/Ford Racing Lowering Kit:
Springs, Shocks, struts, swaybar, +panhard bar + strut tower brace (myself) and then alignment
Anywho, I have a few specific questions:
My wheel shimmies left and right and steering is occasional wondering a bit. Just put on new tires (nitto nt555, had them before also).. Shimmy is much better but still there. I am thinking of replacing front control arm bushings.
1. Is this the right move? (Car has 65K miles).
2. Will this require another alignment? (Can't be doing this every day)
3. My camber is ~1.4 degrees. Can I dial that out without camber plates back to around 1? ( I don't want to wear my tires down so fast).
Thank you all in advance. Please let me know any other relevant information that I was too stupid to ask about. Have read the lowering guide start to finish.
Originally Posted by Bennyandthejets
Hey guys,
Recently installed Foose/Ford Racing Lowering Kit:
Springs, Shocks, struts, swaybar, +panhard bar + strut tower brace (myself) and then alignment
Anywho, I have a few specific questions:
My wheel shimmies left and right and steering is occasional wondering a bit. Just put on new tires (nitto nt555, had them before also).. Shimmy is much better but still there. I am thinking of replacing front control arm bushings.
1. Is this the right move? (Car has 65K miles).
2. Will this require another alignment? (Can't be doing this every day)
3. My camber is ~1.4 degrees. Can I dial that out without camber plates back to around 1? ( I don't want to wear my tires down so fast).
Thank you all in advance. Please let me know any other relevant information that I was too stupid to ask about. Have read the lowering guide start to finish.
Recently installed Foose/Ford Racing Lowering Kit:
Springs, Shocks, struts, swaybar, +panhard bar + strut tower brace (myself) and then alignment
Anywho, I have a few specific questions:
My wheel shimmies left and right and steering is occasional wondering a bit. Just put on new tires (nitto nt555, had them before also).. Shimmy is much better but still there. I am thinking of replacing front control arm bushings.
1. Is this the right move? (Car has 65K miles).
2. Will this require another alignment? (Can't be doing this every day)
3. My camber is ~1.4 degrees. Can I dial that out without camber plates back to around 1? ( I don't want to wear my tires down so fast).
Thank you all in advance. Please let me know any other relevant information that I was too stupid to ask about. Have read the lowering guide start to finish.
By shimmy, you mean a vibration, or just following every road surface change? If it just tracks poorly, tramlining everywhere, then correcting the camber and making sure the toe is correct should help that. If it's a steering wheel vibration, that usually means something out of balance, but my guess is you already know that.
I use 275s on front, and especially if the tire pressure is low it follows every minor surface irregularity, especially when I have my camber plates set to max negative camber (track setting), but does improve if I tilt it to the minimum (which is still more negative than stock, unless the plates are rotated 180 degrees which is a pain).
I use 275s on front, and especially if the tire pressure is low it follows every minor surface irregularity, especially when I have my camber plates set to max negative camber (track setting), but does improve if I tilt it to the minimum (which is still more negative than stock, unless the plates are rotated 180 degrees which is a pain).
I just corrected these same issues. My car was lowered with Eibach pro kit and Tokico D Spek adjustable shocks before I got it and I had the same issues. I ended up getting Steeda X5 ball joints, Heavy duty upper strut mounts and bump steer kit to correct the geometry of the front end. Completely fixed the problem 100%!!! I also installed their Adj Panhard bar and brace, street/comp Adj UCA and chrome Molly LCA's. My car is 100% corrected and drives better than ever. I highly recommend these parts for anyone with a lowered car. And yes you will need a new alignment.
I am familiar with all of those parts. Any idea which had the most impact in creating a solid/accurate steering feel? Might grab one down the road.
Now that I have replaced the tires I think all of those mods would probably be overkill. Plus I've shaken the money tree a bit too hard lately.
I am familiar with all of those parts. Any idea which had the most impact in creating a solid/accurate steering feel? Might grab one down the road.
I am familiar with all of those parts. Any idea which had the most impact in creating a solid/accurate steering feel? Might grab one down the road.
By shimmy, you mean a vibration, or just following every road surface change? If it just tracks poorly, tramlining everywhere, then correcting the camber and making sure the toe is correct should help that. If it's a steering wheel vibration, that usually means something out of balance, but my guess is you already know that.
I use 275s on front, and especially if the tire pressure is low it follows every minor surface irregularity, especially when I have my camber plates set to max negative camber (track setting), but does improve if I tilt it to the minimum (which is still more negative than stock, unless the plates are rotated 180 degrees which is a pain).
I use 275s on front, and especially if the tire pressure is low it follows every minor surface irregularity, especially when I have my camber plates set to max negative camber (track setting), but does improve if I tilt it to the minimum (which is still more negative than stock, unless the plates are rotated 180 degrees which is a pain).
In my research I found that in most cars that had this issue, it was caused by old worn out control arm bushings which could easily be the case with my car (65K).
I'm glad I found a camber expert. Do you know how much adjustability there is with the stock camber set-up? I'm trying to avoid camber plates if possible (don't have time or money). My camber is currently ~1.4. This is way too much for my purposes and will wear down my tires to quickly.
Thanks Josh. Man you're making me want to spend more. I knew this suspension thing would never end. Everyone warned me...
Last edited by Bennyandthejets; May 3, 2011 at 08:32 AM.
Originally Posted by CO_VaporGT_09
The X5 and bumpsteer will have the biggest effect on the steering. The plates help to get camber back to normal, which will help with tramlining and following the crown of the road.
plain ol camber bolts will get you where you need or want to be. Under 30 bucks at napa parts stores. What size tires are you running and what tire pressure? I thought the alignment shops check to see if you need ball joints before they do the alignment. Ask the shop that did yours if that is something they usally do.
Originally Posted by Glenn
plain ol camber bolts will get you where you need or want to be. Under 30 bucks at napa parts stores. What size tires are you running and what tire pressure? I thought the alignment shops check to see if you need ball joints before they do the alignment. Ask the shop that did yours if that is something they usally do.
I run nitto nt555 255/50 zr 17s. I got about 30k out of the last set. Hope to do the same with these.
Agree with above, the bumpsteer kit would be the first, much easier to install (except for the dialing out bumpsteer part, the actual install is easy) and will help immediately; generally you shouldn't do the X5 without the bumpsteer kit as well.
J&M plates allow me up to a bit over -2.5º camber, minimal to no caster adjustment really (though I did just get in the Whiteline front control arm bushings, which supposedly increase caster .7º or something silly). Maximum Motorsports and Vorshlag plates are the pricey but nicest options.
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=274

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...oducts_id=1151

Way overkill unless you track the car, though, as most street drivers are looking for less camber after their lowering springs have increased it. To set back to stock, generally the bolts will be fine. Camber bolts are NOT a good option on the track as they tend to wander/release and eliminate any negative camber you can get from them.
J&M plates allow me up to a bit over -2.5º camber, minimal to no caster adjustment really (though I did just get in the Whiteline front control arm bushings, which supposedly increase caster .7º or something silly). Maximum Motorsports and Vorshlag plates are the pricey but nicest options.
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=274

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...oducts_id=1151
Way overkill unless you track the car, though, as most street drivers are looking for less camber after their lowering springs have increased it. To set back to stock, generally the bolts will be fine. Camber bolts are NOT a good option on the track as they tend to wander/release and eliminate any negative camber you can get from them.
Last edited by CO_VaporGT_09; May 4, 2011 at 07:37 AM.
Agree with above, the bumpsteer kit would be the first, much easier to install (except for the dialing out bumpsteer part, the actual install is easy) and will help immediately; generally you shouldn't do the X5 without the bumpsteer kit as well.
J&M plates allow me up to a bit over -2.5º camber, minimal to no caster adjustment really (though I did just get in the Whiteline front control arm bushings, which supposedly increase caster .7º or something silly). Maximum Motorsports and Vorshlag plates are the pricey but nicest options.
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=274

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...oducts_id=1151

Way overkill unless you track the car, though, as most street drivers are looking for less camber after their lowering springs have increased it. To set back to stock, generally the bolts will be fine. Camber bolts are NOT a good option on the track as they tend to wander/release and eliminate any negative camber you can get from them.
J&M plates allow me up to a bit over -2.5º camber, minimal to no caster adjustment really (though I did just get in the Whiteline front control arm bushings, which supposedly increase caster .7º or something silly). Maximum Motorsports and Vorshlag plates are the pricey but nicest options.
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=274

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...oducts_id=1151
Way overkill unless you track the car, though, as most street drivers are looking for less camber after their lowering springs have increased it. To set back to stock, generally the bolts will be fine. Camber bolts are NOT a good option on the track as they tend to wander/release and eliminate any negative camber you can get from them.
Any idea what the labor would be like for installation? If I don't have to compress any coils again, I'll do it myself and then have it aligned.
Bunch of instructions out there, too:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/co.../Mm5CC-1r2.pdf
http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-4bo...9-install.html
http://www.steeda.com/store/uploads/...-mounts--1.pdf
Ok issue again. X5 ball joints require 18" wheels. Naturally mine are 17". The wheel motion (side to side) has come back even with the new tires at speeds btw 60-70 mph. Not fun.
Should I just go with the bump steer kit and camber shims?
Should I still look into control arm bushings?
Should I just go with the bump steer kit and camber shims?
Should I still look into control arm bushings?
Sorry to hear you are having such issues with that suspension kit. I put the same one on my 08 over a year ago. I've been auto-crossing & drag racing with no issues. I did just take it in for an alighnment because I put on new Nitto Invo's. It was within Ford perameters, but they brought it in just a bit better.
I hope you get this all worked out soon.
I hope you get this all worked out soon.




