Matching dampers w/aftermarket springs
 

All;

I know the whole suspension thing has been beat to death, but I have a question.

I currently have FRPP lowering springs and would like to upgrade my dampers. I know that FRPP has them, but I want to consider all options. So, is there a way to calculate (a formula) the correct shock value based upon the characteristics of the spring?

Yes get the Tokico D spec adjust to your liking.

and give me your SVO.

I know, infinitely adjustable. It's an option that's out there. I was hoping that I could widen my choices on the shock and strut combo based on spring rates etc.

It can be a headache to own, some days I'd trade it for a Mustang II hardtop with the Grande option.

Id give Griggs a call they should be able to help with that

You aren't going to see the damper profiles when you buy dampers anyway, so how will you know what to "calculate"?

I also don't think there is any "perfect" damper setup for each spring set -- there are a lot of variations depending upon your particular needs. Ever wonder why race cars use different setups at different tracks? Same idea.

I think you are over-thinking this. Just get FRPP, Tociko Blues, Steeda Pro Action or Bilsteins (top notch dampers, if you ask me) if you don't want to worry about adjustability, DSpecs if you do.

Since you have the FRPP's, they should be closest "matched" to your springs. However, whomever developed the dampers had a specific ride/handling combo in mind -- are you sure you want the same setup they do?

That is why DSpecs are such an attractive alternative.

The FRPP dampers have a MSRP of $465 for the set. If you shop around, the D-Specs can be had for about $100 more. To me, that makes the Tokico the no-brainer choice. If the FRPP dampers are NOT what you want, then you'll be WAY upside-down by the time you buy a different set of dampers.

Well said;

I was trying to find some alternatives to the FRPP. From what I've heard, they're a little much for a daily driver.

I'm concerned that a non-adjustable product will disappoint (be too soft or firm). But, by the same token, I'm a little put-off by the adjustability of D-Specs and Konis. But they do seem to be the way to go.

Btw, how come I don't see the Tokico Illuminas used too much? Any reason you know of?

I'm concern that the FRPPs will be too firm for the roads my area. I want to spend the money once and get it right the first time.

Exactly my point. I run D-Specs, and (from memory: last season was a while ago!!!) I generally run them around 3 turns out for the street, full soft at the drag strip (1 turn back in on the right rear), and full hard or a touch softer on road courses, depending on how bumpy it is. Nobody wants to spend more money than they need to, but adjustable dampers are ABSOLUTELY one of the things that I would do over again. If you want to compare the "cost," add up the price of a set of Bilsteins for the street, QA1's for the strip, and Multimatics for the track... The D-Specs will essentially do all of that, and all four corners can be adjusted within 2 minutes (120 seconds), and that's if you're taking your time. They're a spectacular product (as are the new Koni pieces, I understand), and they get even better considering that the cost is really not THAT much more than a good set of fixed-valve dampers.

You're probably right. Adjustable looks to be the way to go. Are the D-Specs difficult to tune in? Will it take a lot of adjusting before I find a setting that works for me?

Not difficult at all, physically, OR mentally. Adjustment is topside, right down the stem of the strut or shock with a little adjuster tool (3mm allen key?). I would start with them about 3 turns out from full hard, and then drive for a day or two on them, and then analyze impressions. If it feels like the car floats, or acts loose, in the front, rear or both, then run the adjusters in, and back out to 2-1/2 turns, and keep going tighter by 1/2 turns until it feels right. If the car seems harsh, or wants to bounce over bumps, the run the adjusters in and then back out 3-1/2 turns, and keep going by 1/2 turns until it feels right. DO NOT BE AFRAID to run different settings in the front and rear. If, for example, the front feels like it tracks the bumps nicely, but the rear end kind of hops, then go a little softer in the rear. Once you get the settings you like, run the adjusters in all the way, counting turns as you go, and then back out the same number of turns, and then write down the setting.

Also, don't be afraid to experiment! When I have to make a longer drive to a track, I generally soften up the adjustment by 1/2 to 1-1/2 turns, just for comfort's sake. You'll lose a bit of that "slot car" feel, but for a longer drive, it's more comfortable to me on the softer side.

When you get them in, PM me if you want help getting them dialled in.

Tillman speed can get you a mean deal on D-SPECS within $20 of the FRPP dampers. I just ordered mine yesterday.

Dave, I might take you up on that help too

All good, and no sweat... Just make sure you find a good "test track" that combines some sharp turns, as well as some rough terrain, where you can run over and over again to make some solid judgments about any changes you make. A speed bump or two would be good, too.