going to do that after the fact already planning on it though. Suspension goes on now sc goes on spring of next year. Everything else gets pushed out past that.

 

This information is awesome. I am so glad I stumbled on this website as it has answered many questions I had about various products including outstanding levels of detail like here!! Can't wait to start digging into my car with some of these upgrades.

 

Is the Gt 500 lower than a stock GT. I want to lower just the back of my car to match the stock front. I have a chin spoiler on it and I dont want the frony any lower. I was wondering if stock GT500 springs in the back would lower the car or should I just cut my factory springs.

 

I cut my rears and ran that way for a while. It worked out very well. I wanted to drop the front also so I waited for a deal on a full set of springs.
But yes its a free mod chop those babies down

 

Thanks for the reply Glenn

 

Great info up top. I just ordered some FRPP lowering springs and im not sure what else I would need besides camber bolts or plates so as not to get the uneven tire wear and ugly wheel cant. Any one have any ideas that wont break the bank for me? Not a track or road course guy, just a daily driver that is sick of the 4x4 look

 

I have an 07 GT Convertable that I lowered soon after I bought the car with the Ford Racing Springs only. The car was lowered about 2 inches so I took it to an alighment shop and they said they were able to align the car. Since then I have about 18,000 miles on the car and am very happy. It is used just for street use and the tires are wearing even, I have not experianced any bump steer or any other problems. Like I said I just use it on the street only taking on a ralley track once during a mustang event, but I do push it at times in turns. The ride is stiffer but the wife and I have taken it on long trips and think it is still more comfortable than her Jeep Grand Cherokee (better seats). So get ride of the 4X4 look.

 

Dakota Stang; So all you added were the FRPP springs, you don't have caster camber plates or camber bolts at all? How is the ride compared to stock/before you had it lowered

 

Great info in this thread. I am finally ready to mod the car after 3 years. I am waiting on the price on the 1.5 drop HP M-2005-FR3, and the 1" drop M-FR3-MGT and the M-FR3-MSVT. The MGT is $1,275 on the Ford Acces' site. On the Ford Racing Parts site they are showing 1" MGT sale $1,050 and the 1.5" FR3 sale $1,150. Also going with 4.10gears $179, Upper mounts $299, Hurst $300 if all goes well.

 

Can anyone chime in on the difference between the Steeda offset lowering springs to balence the car out vs. the Roush or FRPP springs that are one height all around? Steeda claims the weight shift is better balanced with the offset lowering, making the car flat (obviously). Just wondering how effective this is.

I originally posted this in the 2010+ section but I am thinking this only applies to the earlier S197's.

 

Sounds like they are using the springs to offset a change in suspension geometry without having to resort to using other suspension mods (sway bars for example).

 

I can say I put in Steeda Comps and Koni STR.T's 3 weeks ago and I just measured 27 1/2" to the top of all 4 fender wells.

 

This thread reminds me of the "How to properly wash/take care of your Mustang" themed threads. A crap load of information that doesn't always add up to what everyone's wants or needs are. So I am making my own list.

My car will be street driven 99.8% of the time. I want similar results as my 335i but with a little less roll and ver smooth turn in.

My list:
FRPP Handling Pack 1" Drop (Don't figure I need the adjustable shocks unless someone can tell me why I might NEED them)
Steeda Chrome Molly lower Rears
Possibly Steeda Pan Hard and Bump Steer kit.

Done. On to the next. Anyone's opinion on what I might do otherwise?

 

If your car is mostly street driven you might want to swap the FRPP dampers for Koni STR.Ts (non-adjustable). Always read that the ride on the FRPP dampers is kinda rough compared to stock.

 

Interesting. I don't mind it a bit stiff (that's what she said) so that said I don't want it to bounce like crazy over rough sections either. I want a firm ride (again, see above).

 

This thread has gone quiet. Not been around in a while myself.

Adjustable shocks give you some tuning capability. Most are rebound adjustable only, while others like the Tokio Spec D change both bump and rebound damping.

When lower your ride, you really need to increase spring rate to compensate because you have reduced the available bump travel. Along with that increased spring rate come increased dampening requirements to control the springs.

With the FRPP you are buying a tuned package and you do not necessarily need tunable shocks unless you are really getting into competitive driving.

Also when you lower the front of your stang, you inadvertently lower the front roll center. This increases the roll couple (moment) for the front of the car. A somewhat easy fix is the Steeda lowered lower ball joints which raises the roll center back up..

 

First of all I would like to say great thread. I just picked up a 2007 GT not too long ago and am in the process of updating the suspension.

The car came with Ground Force springs 1.3" front and 1.4" rear drop with stock dampers. After owning a 2001 Bullitt I decided to copy much of its suspension. I went with UMI full length bolt in subframe connectors, J&M LCA's and UCA (non adjustable), Steeda Panhard bar and brace, and CHE relocation brackets.

This setup with the factory sway bars seemed to give the car a little too much oversteer. I do have to mention too that I have 20" chrome wheels (heavy as hell). After reading many suspension threads I decided to do a little experiment. I removed the rear sway bar and the car seemed to handle more neutral. I have read that many SCCA racers have done this with great results. Anyone else with 20" wheels try this with good results??

Right now I am upgrading the dampers to Tokico blues. I just replaced the rears and it was a nice change. Tightened up the rear just enough. Really hard to oversteer now and good grip. I will be swapping the fronts soon. The factory dampers with lowering springs does work and the compression seems fine, but the rebound is the problem. They are way too soft and on big bumps it jumps like a Buick.

 

Interresting post modme. I haven't seen anyone deleating their swaybars just upgrading. I wonder about this myself.

 

Yeah I thought I would give it a try since my '01 Bullitt had a smaller sway bar than the regular GT from the factory (I think it was a factory V6 sway bar). I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't try it. It seems that the handling is much better at speeds under 60mph. Not sure this would be a benefit on a high speed track, but it does make sense why SCCA (parking lot) racers would benefit.

 

If you have oversteer issues, then it's for other reasons and taking the rear bar off is only covering for those other reasons.

There are times that less bar than stock is good (but not on a pre-2011 GT). And too much bar is bad. I took my 24mm off my '11 for an adjustable 22, but I used the same adjustable 22 on my '07 up from the stock 20mm bar).

Here's what I think. I think the tires aren't very sticky. I think the limited slip is likely weak. Both those things will cause the car to be very loose under power. You aren't very specific about any of those things, you don't (and likely don't know) the spring rates, the dampers seem to be stock (and Tokico Blues while better aren't exactly great).

I have no idea who the SCCA racers you are talking are, and for what reasons they might be doing such a thing. I run 35/22 Strano Performance adjustable bars on my cars, and developed the sizes and adjustments based on handling and the kind of spring setups I run (which aren't exactly off the wall).