Stock stocks should be fine

 

How long will they last and I would get a better ride with new shocks?

 

I would have to say you would get a firmer ride. You will feel the road more.

 

Not long once it's lowered, and yes it will ride better with replacements.

 

I agree a purpose built shock is better but there are 100's if not 1000's of lowered cars out there withthe stock shocks

 

The stock shocks may "work" -- an people may use them; but if you want to have good ride quality and take full advantage of the improvements in handling that the springs can provide, you need to change shocks. I have ridden in and driven vehicles both ways and the difference a quality aftermarket shock makes on a lowered vehicle is profound. If you step up to the D-Spec, you get the best of both worlds -- the better handling and a ride at least as good as stock. There may be other aftermarket shocks that give similar. Plus, from an install standpoint, replacing the shocks at the same time as the springs is simple. If you do it at different times, you just double up the labor.

 

Ok guys, I went and did a dumb thing. I test drove a 2008 Cayman. The handling on the thing is fantastic. Now, I've posted my car for sale. But, if I don't get any bites, I need to upgrade the suspension. The set up that c25sailor has looks like it will work well for me also, I'm not sure I need the upper strut mounts and trac brace. I won't be racing at all, I just want it to handle better in curves etc. I already have the Steeda Ultra lite springs(not installed), so this is my list so far. Rear Sway bar, LCA, Adj. panhard bar, shocks and a strut tower brace. Did I miss something? Is there something I NEED? or will this list suffice? Also, this is a great thread.

 

Cayman is nice but -- it'll cost many more $$$. Upper strut mounts are great for 2 reasons -- 1 added strength, but 2 -- more importantly they give a 1 degree adjustment for alignment which helps with lowered car.

Good luck either way.

 

I asked steeda tech similar question. Their answer was:
Sport Springs 1"front 1.25" rear555-8215/16Steeda Adjustable Panhard Bar 555-2551Steeda Heavy Duty Upper Strut Mounts555-8120

Additionaly I can consider but not necessary now:
Steeda Bumpsteer Kit555-8106Adjustable Competition Upper Control Arm Kit555-4106 or 4105

 

I want to do Roush rear springs only - 3/4 to 1 inch drop. I will get an adj. panhard, but do I need adj. lca's? How much will pinion angle be affected by such a drop, and what are the consequences?

 

No, you really don't need the adj Lca's 1'' drop or less really wont affect your pinion angle much.

 

'cause I hate looking it up all the time.

Torque specs for front Suspension
(Nm = Newton Meters ft/lbs = Foot Pounds in/lbs. = Inch pounds)
Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts: 133 Nm - 98 ft/lbs.
Dust Shield Bolts: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs.
Wheel Spindle Pinch Nut: 103 Nm - 76 ft/lbs.
Lower Control Arm Bolt (front): 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lower Control Arm Bolt (Rear): 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Heat Shield Bolts: 10 Nm - 89 in/lbs.
Brake Line Bracket Bolt: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs.
Strut Upper Mount: 62 Nm - 46 ft/lbs.
Strut to Spindle Bolts: 200 Nm - 148 ft/lbs.
Strut to Body Nuts: 35 Nm - 26 ft/lbs.
Wheel Hub Retainer Nut: 300 Nm - 221 ft/lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Bracket Nuts: 70 Nm - 52 ft/lbs.
Anti-lock Brake Sensor Bolt: 6 Nm - 53 in/lbs.
Outer Tie-Rod Ends: 80 Nm - 59 ft/lbs.
Steering Gear Mounting Bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.

Torque Specs for Rear Suspension
(Nm = Newton meters ft/lbs. = Foot Pounds in/lbs. = Inch Pounds)
Rear Shock Absorber Upper Nut: 40 Nm - 10 ft/lbs.
Rear Shock Absorber Lower Bolt: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Lower Arm to Body Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lower Arm to Axle Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Panhard Rod to Body Mount Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Pahhard Rod to Axle Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Lateral Stiffener Bar to Body Nut: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Lateral Stiffener Bar to Body Bolts: 62 Nm - 46 ft/lbs.
Stabilzer Bar Bracket Nuts: 70 Nm - 52 ft/lbs.
Stabilizer Bar Link bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Parking Brake Cable Bracket to Lower Arm: 27 Nm - 20 ft/lbs.
Upper Control Arm Front Bolt: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Upper Control Arm Rear Bolts: 115 Nm - 85 ft/lbs.
Upper Control arm Bushing Nut: 175 Nm - 129 ft/lbs.
Fuel Tank Strap Bolt: 51 Nm -38 ft/lbs.
Brake House Bracket Bolt: 20 Nm - 15 ft/lbs

 

Has anyone run the Steeda adjustable upper strut mounts without using the Ford upper rubber spring isolator?

 

I lowered mine with Eibach Sportline but I only seem to be off by 5-6 mm when i measure from the wheel arch (with a hanging string with a weight) to the wheel centre cap. I was looking at the American Muscle "Swar Bar", wouldn't this stiffen everything up enough without the use of an adjustable Panhard Bar or does one need the Panhard Bar too?
http://www.americanmuscle.com/swarr-...rear-2005.html

 

I just did the full level 1 suspension upgrade from BMR. Got it all in red powder-coat. I also got the adjustable rear control arms with the spherical end on one side and the urethane on the other.

With the tokico shocks and struts the car handles awesome with no body roll. I can adjust the dampening of the struts and shocks to firm up or soften the ride. I highly recommend it. as seen below the new upper strut mount made it a snap. I didn't have to disassemble the originals just put the new ones together.





I have already done the drag race phase and with a stock suspension got some great times now I am ready to start carving up the corners in autocross.

 

1st post lol.
I have done allot of reading at this forum and enjoy it very much.
I recently did the Eibach pro street kit on my 07, very easy to install.
Within 10 minutes on my first test ride the engine is acting up (stalling,jerking). I reinstalled the factory tune then reinstalled Airraid 91 octane tune without mvt. No change. I nearly ran the car out of fuel hoping it was bad gas, i put in new fuel still no change. Tomorrow i will reinstall the mvt and the stock tune and see what happends. I only have 3200 miles on the car, maybe i did have some dirty fuel and the fuel filter is plugged

This does seem a little odd tho, my question to everyone is. Is it possible there are ride hight sensors? possibly intrupting the the engine performance

 

no way

 

I reinstalled the stock tune with the mvt, its all good now. I guess this is a problem for Diablosport an myself to figure out. Too bad i dont live near Aston PA...not even close LOL

 

Morning all I am currently building my suspension set up and want to make sure I get this right. First of all this is almost totally for street use and for appearance purposes. I will be doing a couple runs at a drag track a year but for the most part this is all for street.

I already purchased a set of tokico d-spec shocks as well as the eibach pro kit. I'm also about to buy a BMR control arm relocations and a set of fixed BMR LCA's. My first question is whether or not I have to go with the adjustable UCA. There is a member selling some fixed ones here and I want to know what type of difference I would be looking at if I went with the fixed.

My second and last question is whether or not there is anything else that I NEED to have. Keeping in mind that funds are limited and a SC is coming soon. All input is appreciated. Thanks!

 

I'd take a look at a decent clutch & fly wheel as well if you're installing a blower.