I'm talking about intakes that reaches down to about bumper level and sucks in cold air from underneath the car. Anyone make anything like this? I have a C&L Racer intake arriving Friday, but was just wondering if there was a reason why I haven't seen any of these true cold-air intakes around.

Do they exist for our car? Or is there a reason they don't?

 

ford made such a small opening in the fenderwell that just about the only way it to cut the opening bigger and do custom intake

 

Agent 47 has it go out to the head light

 

Not sure if this would qualify, but close. Grabs air from the grill openings.

 

This is what I am running as well and the fact no tuner was needed is all the more reason I went this route in the beginning. And then along came the ram air hood to accent the air intake of the filter.

 

You could always get the Kenne Bell air intake.

 

+1

 

Actually, if you datalog your IAT, you will see that pretty much all of the aftermarket intakes ARE true CAI! I did some datalogging on my stock 05 intake and my JLT2 inlet and several other folks datalogged other inlets as well. The stock inlet is HOT!!! ALL of the aftermaket CAI had much lower IAT than stock. They also didn't heat soak NEARLY as much.

If you are REALLY worried about it, get the WMS. It was a couple of degrees cooler steady state than anything else and it did not heat soak as much as the other inlets. But either way, ALL of the aftermarket CAIs ARE cold air intakes.

 

WMS.

 

Cali HP Addict cut a hole in the lower grill on the drivers side and ran ducting up to his CAI. It really draws the air! You can pm him for more details.

 

...I have made one from aluminum ducting..3"...with some dryer hose connected to that that goes from lower bumper opening...up through hole in sheetmetal by abs unit...near air opening where filter sits(c&L)...it aint pretty...but definetely shoves cold air into that area. Also...i can run my car really hard...in 90 degree traffic...pop hood and still able to leave my hand on CAI...Thats because i sheilded intake manifold with insulation wrapped in tin foil...it sits under manifold in the oil gallery area of motor...when i removed intake for Delete Plates...i decided to try out some old Chrysler tricks from the late 60's and early 70's. They used to have this insulation under gap in intake manifold to prevent vapor lock..keeps Intake manifold cooler and CAI alot cooler for a denser charge...cant see where it could hurt..on my second GT this way..

 

I run a modified version of the WMS and love it.

Took the C&L True Flow off..........didnt want to draw in any air from the engine bay.

What ever the outdoor air temp is..........thats what the engine is seeing. (when the car is moving of coarse)

Have a remote temp sensor mounted on the right side........looks like a gray dot.

 

What is the temperature reading of the remote sensor as compared to ambient after the engine has reached normal operating temperature from driving at least 10 miles, and it's been idling at a stop for at least a minute with a closed hood?

 

When at a stop the temperature rises as indicated by the remote temp sensor. Once the car starts moving forward the temp begins to drop and finally settles out at ambient.

The reason I did this is due to a lot of reading on how to tune engine management systems. The one thing they dwell on is not to pull any intake air in from under the hood.

If you have to run a C&L or similar product the thing to do is to pipe the tubing through the fender well and have it end up in the back of the front fascia. If installed properly you could look through the lower grille and see the filter off to the right.

 

Thanks for the info, but I was requesting the actual temperature numbers (your remote sensor and ambient) for that situation("the engine has reached normal operating temperature from driving at least 10 miles, and it's been idling at a stop for at least a minute with a closed hood").

 

At a stop, doesnt really matter how long 10 min. or 10 hrs. the temp sensor will read approx 120 deg (depends on the outdoor air temp)

Once the car begins moving forward the intake air temp drops "right now" this is due to the outdoor air being forced into the sealed ram hood.

If you want to experiment for yourself, Lowes sells a remote temp sensor for $7.95. Located in the garden area/shop.

 

Again, thanks for the info.

Actually, I've already conducted the same test with my C&L Street CAI(standard installation with the C&L heat shield) and DiabloSport Predator using the MAF sensor's temperature sensor, and just wanted to compare notes.
My underhood temperature increased to approx. the same level as yours(120 F) at a stop with an ambient of 85 F, and then also quickly dropped back to ambient once the car was moving.

 

Cool.

The only difference being is that on my setup the air is being rammed instead of sucked.

 

Contact Jon at quantummotorsports.com. They will sell you just one of their air intakes from their brake cooling kit. Mount it in the lower grille, then run 3" hose up to your intake.

For the hose and other intake parts, check out spectre.com. They have all sorts of cool stuff for custom intake fabrication. Then take their part number and plug it into Jegs or Summit's website to order the parts.

I was going to do this until I decided to do the full brake cooling kit instead.

 

I might be off base, but I'd think that if the intake doesn't need a new tune, it's not doing much on it's own? (and might not really do much with a tune either?)

I dig how that one looks, has that camaro intake look