5.M0NSTER

Small correction, $400 is just for the replacement discs, but not the hats. First time price for both discs and hats is $700

Nice work, that's definitely a good upgrade. How many track days do you get out of a set of clutchs for the trac-loc diff? Also what fluid did you use? I've been running Royal Purple 75W-140, but now I switched to Red Line fluid in same viscosity.

mustang5o

$700 a set is more what I was thinking. Still way cheaper than the Brembo fronts I have now. Luckily mine came with the car. Just won't be buying replacement discs for the Brembos. If I decide to stick with 2 piece I'll buy Girodisc. Otherwise most of my track time has been on Centric Premiums.

I use RP in the diff and MT82. My buddy gets me a good price. I change them both once a year right now. If my track time starts to increase so will change frequency.

EF1

Not sure how many days I will get out of the new carbon clutches. The original set weren't gone yet and had approximately 60k miles with 4 track days. I just rebuilt the trac loc as precautionary maintenance since I was already opening up the rear and pulling the axles. I am using Redling 75W-140 in the rear with Redline MTL in the MT 82.

5.M0NSTER

I hear you, thankfully there are lots of options for 14" front discs. I have been using the Centric Cryogenic blanks. Got 2 years and 7 track says out of the last set pictures on the last page. Rotor thickness is still good (31.6") so they would probably still do fine in the next 2 events, but I'll replace them anyway and use the current ones as back up in case one cracks at the track. I get them for $113 on tire rack

How do you like the Redline, particularly in the MT82? I use the same exact fluids in my car too! It was a bit notchy on cold shifts, I could feel the syncros grinding a little.

EF1

The MTL is no longer recommended for the MT82. It met the original spec, but not the revised Ford spec. My car is out of warranty, so if I have tranny problems it is on me and i will send it to Ben Callimer for a rebuild. I have been running the MTL for 25-30k miles now without issue. When I made the change the transmission seemed to shift smoother/easier. I used to get a little grinding on cold 1-2 shifts with the stock fluid that seemed to disappear after the change to MTL. I don't worry about the cold shifts anymore since I haven't daily driven the car in a couple of years. If it is below 45 degrees it stays in the garage.

5.M0NSTER

Thanks for good info. I looked back at what I have in the trany, and it's Redline MT90.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/redli...4-gearoil.html

I'm guessing that's not what you have in yours now?

EF1

No I am running the MTL which is a 75w80 gear oil that replaces most synchromesh fluids, not the MT90. Here is a link to it.

https://www.redlineoil.com/mtl-75w80-gl-4-gear-oil

5.M0NSTER

I got replacement calipers with high temp EPDM rubber seals. Hopefully no more leaks through caliper seal after 2 seasons of use.

I also got the caliper relocation brackets to use the GT500 13.8" rear rotors (without having to pull the axles). There were no instructions. Can anyone tell me if this is the right mounting orientation?

Bert

I had the same difficulty with figuring out which way those things go, had to play with them a bit on the car to get them oriented correctly. And it is hard to see from the picture, without the rest of the car for reference . . .

If you think of it as the new brackets relocate the mounting holes for the caliper directly outward on the radial direction of the rotor, but still on the same plane as before perpendicular to the axle, hopefully you can see that it is right.

As I recall -- without the brackets, the bolts come through the old holes from the back and thread into the caliper. in the new setup, the bolts go from the front, through the old holes, and into the threaded hole in the new bracket. Then the new bracket goes outward and toward the rotor, so the mounting face ends up in the same plane as the original mounting surface. I hope that makes some sense, it is hard to describe in words.

I think you have it right! But you will have to take them apart and mount the new bracket first, because with the caliper in the way like it is in your pictures, you can't get the bolts into the holes.

5.M0NSTER

Thanks Bert! I haven't taken the wheels off and tried to mess with it on the car, but this was my first stab at how I think the brackets should work. Appreciate the input, and glad to hear i'm on the right path.

Did you locktite your lower bolts? It looks like they can't be removed with the rotors on.

PJRManagement

Smart move to take advantage of the 13.8" rear rotor upgrade while you had to get new (other) brake parts. You should see a dramatic reduction of rear-brake-over-heating on the track. I did. Sorry I can't advise on the correct orientation of the relo bracket - I had my shop do my upgrade, with OEM.

5.M0NSTER

Hey Pete! Long time no talk buddy, how are things!

Yes, I should have done it 2 years ago when I changed out the rotors last time. Better late then never I guess. I'll also step up to carbotech XP10 in the rear (from XP8). This should be a good season. What are your plans this year?

PJRManagement

I have three track events planned:
* April 21, Las Vegas Motor Speedway Outside Road Course, SpeedVentures.
* May 13, Spring Mountain Motorsports Ranch, PCA-LVR.
* November 18, Spring Mountain Motorsports Ranch, PCA-LVR.
I still stick with the OEM Boss Ferodo pads, I'm not setting any lap records. What is your schedule? Hey, also, just a thought, my front Brembo calipers are black (from GT500), so I painted my rear calipers black to match (DupliColor). This might be a good time for you to paint your new rear calipers to match your fronts before you install them.

Bert

yeah I always locktite all of this stuff, even if it isn't really "needed" . . . not sure if I used the low strength or high strength version, either way I figure it can't hurt

EF1

Has anyone upgraded their axles for road course use? I am thinking about swapping out the trac lok differential for either a Torsen or an Eaton Detroit True Trac and am considering upgrading axles at the same time. I don't want to get into a Torsen vs True Trac debate, but would like some input on axle upgrades from those who have done them.

5.M0NSTER

EF1

That is probably why my online searches are not yielding much on the subject. I just hate to put old parts back in, even if they are fine. If I have already removed something I just feel better upgrading the items. Most of the axles that I see available are lug centric not hub centric, which makes sense for drag racing.

5.M0NSTER

Finally got the last piece of the maintenance/upgrade parts I needed for this season. In a few weeks all will be on the car. I got:

- Ford Racing Boss 302 low expansion brake hoses
- New Centric rear calipers with EPDM high temp rubber seals
- Relocation brackets
- 13.8" rear sloted centric rotors
- Front centric sloted rotors
- Castrol SRF react fluid
- New set of G-Loc R10 rear pads

If I have any more brake issues after this I will not be amused

EF1

Have you you thought about adding front cooling ducts? They really help with front brake temps.

5.M0NSTER

I have. The thing is most of my brake issues have been at the rear not the front. And I don't feel like cobbling together ducting to the rear.