ILStang

Hi guys, new to the forum here, will be picking up my 2013 GT premium in DIB tomorrow, wanted to say hi and thanks in advance for all the useful info on the site. One quick question, how soon can i clay bar a new car w/o harming anything?

outtaphase

I clayed probably 8 weeks from when it was originally painted.

Washed with Blue Coral concentrate soap in a Mr Clean Filtered hose attachment (very hard water from my well). 1st dry with shammy and micro cloth. 80psi on air compressor to blow water out of every crevice. Micro towel again. Let sit 2 hours.

Then clay, small 2x2 sections, lots of detail spray to keep the clay moving (depends on the clay system you get, I like Mother's.) If clay touches anything other than your car (e.g. ground), toss it and use a new bar. Kneading a dirty bar is pointless, you will scuff the coat.

You can follow with Meguiar's #7 glaze before wax if you prefer, but I was so satisfied with the feel that I went straight to the Gold Class wax. No machines, only hand the first time. ~6 hours but it came out very nice.

ILStang

Ok cool, thanks for the response and info, i used clay bar on my fx4 every 6 months or so but wasn't sure if it would hurt really fresh paint. Not sure when the car was built but it sat on the dealers lot at least 3 weeks so i'm probably ok?

outtaphase

I'd say you're fine, go for it. First time, just be gentle, a feather light touch on the clay is all you need with lots of detail spray. You'll want a generous bag of new micro-towels to switch out, flip them often.

Glenn

you can clay it as soon as you drive it home. Do it in the garage if possible after sweeping the floor so if you drop the clay it should be ok. You can clay a bigger section than 2x2 and still be ok as long as its lubed up well. Tell the dealership not to wash, wax or buff your car and if you don't want the front plate mounted tellem not to mess with the front bumper either.
Congrats on the new ride and welcome to the sitte.

outtaphase

Oh, and kneed that clay frequently, after every 2-3 passes. DO NOT let the clay touch anything other than your hand or the car.

Agent

I've taken to folding the clay rather than kneading it. Start with a clean clay and always fold so the dirty side ends up in the middle.

Thoughts?

Stevedotmil

Check out Autogeek.net. There are tons of useful videos and such on there. Clay bar procedures are there as well. I don't use a bar of clay more than once. Micromarring is your enemy. Clean = shiny.

max5ive0

Read Car Detailing 101 in the car care section. Excellent write up by Zto5 in there about washing and polishing. Don't use a shammy, quality micro fibers only. Shammys just drag left over particles across your finish, MD's pull it up into the fibers away from your paint.

dafreeze

curious about the detailing spray...no issue with having a layer of it between my freshly clayed paint and my Black Diamond Wet Fire sealer?

silverstate777

I purchased my 2012 V6 back in March and immediately used the Meguiars clay bar / quick detailer. Then I applied two coats of #20 (by hand) which I like better as it lasts longer than wax, but it doesn’t have the deep show shine.

CCTking

I requested the dealer not touch my car oter than bringing out for me to take home. No wash or prep work. I washed it when i got home with some dawn to strip off anything on the clear coat as far as surface protectants go. Clay barred with loads of detail spray (mothers gold class detail spray).

Then once buffed out went ahead and used klasse all in one polish, klasse high gloss sealant, then two coats of wax, collinite 915 and then some liquod souveran. Not a swirl mark, scratch, or visible imperfection. All done by hand, uea it took aboit 5-6 hours but paint is smooth as glass and ridiculously easy to maintain

Congrats on the new ride btw!

ILStang

Thank you all for all the tips and suggestions. I got it home just now.....just in time to sleep and get to work, ugh!

Big Papi's Pony

Clay bars are going the way of the 8 track tape.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/surfa...wel-combo.html

Stevedotmil

The towel method seems like it would be much less labor intensive and easier to reuse after. It would beat buying clay every time you had to do it.

FromZto5

Am sorry but that is just not true. If a clay bar is dropped, that is the END of that clay bar. Unless you want to drag sandpaper across your paint, the increased risk of doing so is not worth the cost of a new clay bar. Dump it.

thanks max. Yeah I need to keep updating that thread. I'm sorry guys, been so busy. I can post up a "how to" for claying... Not sure if I did that yet. Would that be beneficial to everyone?

FromZto5

Here you go..... I updated my first post in the car detailing thread...

https://themustangsource.com/f659/ca...-101-a-503492/

CLAY BAR - what exactly is its purpose and how to use it?

A clay bar is exactly that. A "clay" "bar". Lol. Imagine playdoh for grown ups who love cars. Lol. Its purpose? To remove surface contaminants embedded in your car's clear coat. These contaminants feel rough to the touch, and take away from the smooth glass finish that we all strive to get. It may take away from the best shine and wet look you are trying to achieve. Worst of all? If not removed, these contaminants can lead to surface rust if not removed diligently.

So how will you know if you need to clay? After a good car wash, grab a sandwich bag (not the ziploc type). Insert in on your hand like a glove. Run your hand across the paint surface. If you feel resistance and or rough spots, you need to clay.

How to clay? Buy yourself a good claybar... Like mothers or meguiars. To be honest, I found the mothers yellow clay bar to be too aggressive... Aggressive clay bars require less repetition but can damage paint (i.e. marring) easily..so choose wisely. If you're gonna correct paint (buff and deswirl) anyways, go with mothers.

Anyways, grab several mf towels. Grab a ton of detail spray. Work panel by panel.... 2'x2' at a time, no more. Spray the surface liberally. The using the claybar, lay it flat on your three fingers sans thumb. Glide the bar across the lubed area. Keep rubbing until it is smooth as glass. Knead the clay bar, and remold into another good surface, often. Do NOT rub a dirty clay bar on to your paint. Once surface was clayed, wipe off with good clean mfs.

As for pressure and direction, use only your three fingers (index, middle, ring). Let the clay do the work. DO NOT PUSH DOWN on the clay. Just let it glide. It will pick up the contaiminants on its own. On horizontal surfaces clay AWAY from the car. On vertical surfaces, clay DOWNWARD.

Wipe clayed area with clean mfs. Re-test with the sandwich bag. Is it smooth as glass? You're done. If not....repeat steps for claying.

Does that help?

Remember:

1) if bar is dropped, throw it away.

2) keep claying until finish is smooooooooooth as glass

3) once clayed, you are ready to correct paint and deswirl....or if already swirl free, then seal or wax.

You will be amazed at how much better your paint will look from claying alone. And especially after waxing.... you are maximizing gloss because your surface is entirely flat.

max5ive0

FromZto5 your expertise is always appreciated!

2012GTCS

Those towels are too much in their infant stages for me to use them lol. I'll stick to the clay, for now.

OP, if your car sat for 3 weeks you are fine. Think how long it sits outside the factory and transport time. You'd probably be fine right away anyway but it's good to wait and be safe.

BTR-75

Several have said it but it bears repeating, if the clay hits the ground throw it away and use a new bar. Saving a couple dollars to try and keep using it is not worth ruining your paint.