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Best Method for Removing Water-Spots

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Old 9/30/13, 08:31 PM
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Best Method for Removing Water-Spots

I just got done washing the car and once again I have water-spots all over my car. What is the best method to prevent or remove this. Clearly I have hard water and that is the major culprit.

Should I either try a garden hose filter or something like a California blade or what?

What are your methods?
Old 9/30/13, 09:13 PM
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With hard water using a filter might not help unless has some sort of softener in the filter... California blade probably wouldn't work either but might I usually dry mine off then take it for a quick drive get it up to 65-75 or so then dry it off again so that the water that was in the louvers and grille that has come out on the drive is gone... but with hard water best bet might be to give it a quick detail spray then wipe off.
Old 10/1/13, 02:20 AM
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After washing i either go for a lil drive on the backroads 60-70mph to blast most the air out of the grill and "drip spots"
If i just want the quicker way i grab an electric leaf blower and go to town on every nook and cranny as well as blast most the water off. Anything thats left gets wiped off when i do a quick detail spray on every panel.

One thing i hate though is i have a habit of rolling down my windows every time i get in the car and after washing the weather stripping is still wet and streaks all over the windows. Its a PITA
Old 10/1/13, 02:56 AM
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Wow that kinda sucks. Well when i use to work for a local dealer where i live they removed water spots with wheel acid cleaner which they used to clean and remove water spot off of chrome wheels. They actually reduced pored some in a bucket of soap then and as they washed it the acid mixed with the soap would eliminate the water spots. Kind of weird but dang it worked wonders.
Old 10/1/13, 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ..MIGUEL..
Wow that kinda sucks. Well when i use to work for a local dealer where i live they removed water spots with wheel acid cleaner which they used to clean and remove water spot off of chrome wheels. They actually reduced pored some in a bucket of soap then and as they washed it the acid mixed with the soap would eliminate the water spots. Kind of weird but dang it worked wonders.
Id be way to worried about that acid slowly eatin away the clearcoat and potentially screwin the cars finish. Yea it might be diluted with the wash soap but acid is acid
Old 10/1/13, 07:15 AM
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I wash my car with 2 bucket system/grid guards, start from the top, wash everything around panel by panel rinsing each panel in between before I go to the next one, do that to middle of the car( the hockey line on the doors is where I stop) after that I grab a secondary wash mit do the bottom of the car (everything bellow the hockey line as that's where most dirt you will have) go over once just to remove the heavy dirt,rinse, then switch back to the first wash mitt and go over the bottom for a final clean.

I found that this over time even in shade as I always wash it in shade, will leave water spots on the car(the water just dries up before I'm done washing the whole car). What I do is I take the mitt and go over the whole car as fast as I can, so nothing dries up, rinse the car and quickly take the electric blower, and blow the water off. Wipe the remaining water with a drying towel.
Since that one extra step of going over the car and washing it as fast as possible, plus drying helped me get rid of water spots for good.

Last edited by =HYPERDRIVE=; 10/1/13 at 07:17 AM.
Old 10/1/13, 08:08 AM
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Welcome to black cars. Lol. It's completely sucks having hard water. I have the same problem. Different soaps make a hell of a difference. Washing in the shade or in overcast conditions help also. You want the paint surface as cool as possible. This may require just spraying the car down with water for a while just to cool off the panels.
Don't do a really thorough rise till you are completely finished.
Clean your wheels, grills, glass, and anything else not painted first. (So the wash doesn't dry while your working on these easy parts).
Wash fast but carefully and try your best to keep the entire car wet and cool.
Electric power blowers work very well to force most of the water off your paint. Follow up with a waffle weave microfiber towel or two. It all requires speed and extreme care.
Again Soap selection makes a hell of a difference also.

Getting rid of the spots. I bought a dual action polisher a few years ago and I have to say it is a must with black cars. It saves so much time and works so well. My normal touch up and shine, I use meguires ultimate polish with the DA. The Meg's is easy to find at any auto parts store and its easy to use.
You have hard water like I do so you will find polishing and/or waxing after just about every wash will be necessary. So the DA polisher saves tons of time.

The bottom line is black cars suck *** to own and maintain. Hope this helps.
Old 10/1/13, 08:55 AM
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Preventing spots when you have hard water (And trust me, Dallas has some serious hard water) is next to impossible. Do your best to get the car dry as fast as you can, but you'll never prevent water spots.


The best way I've found by far is to simply go over the car with a spray detailer and a soft microfiber cloth when you're done. It adds about 15 minutes to the wash job, but will remove the hard water spots without damaging the paint.

It's effective enough that I always keep a bottle in my Kona Mustang just in case I have a close encounter with a running sprinkler system. Nothing worse that coming out of a store to find their sprinklers went off and the nose of your car is now covered in spots.



Originally Posted by AlsCobra
You have hard water like I do so you will find polishing and/or waxing after just about every wash will be necessary. So the DA polisher saves tons of time.
Save your paint and use a spray detailer instead. No need to wax and polish after every wash, all you have to do is get the spots wet and they soften up and come right off.

Last edited by Moustang; 10/1/13 at 08:58 AM.
Old 10/1/13, 08:58 AM
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Try using Optimum No Rinse. You wash one panel at a time and then dry it. That will not allow for the water to dry/spot on your paint.

I've used ONR for years. Once you start washing this way, you'll never go back to traditional washing.
Old 10/1/13, 09:51 AM
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Oh man, I know, I'll never buy a black car again. I've managed to swirl it up pretty good whilst trying to learn the best washing and drying methods. I will get the car nicely detailed in the spring to removed them.

What about a camois towels? Forgive my misspelling.

I've heard a quick spray of Meguiar's detailing and going over it with a towel should do the trick from others as well.

I've seen water spot removers online as well from chemical guys. Curious if they work.

I will def try the two bucket with grit guard next time. I've been reading up and watching videos on "proper techniques" and it is over whelming. Must respect to the guys who put hours into it but I'm more of a thorough wash and spray wax guy with a once a year detail.
Old 10/1/13, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by wilson68944

What about a camois towels? Forgive my misspelling.

NEVER!

Nothing but Microfiber, and only if it's clean.


Chamois towels are impossible to get clean. Over time dirt and grit becomes embedded in the towel and when you press it on your paint it causes microscratching like swirl marks.
Old 10/1/13, 10:23 AM
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i dry my car with a leaf blower. it gets the water out of the grille and anywhere else it may drip out of. then i spray it with a quick detailer spray and wipe with a microfiber towel.
Old 10/1/13, 10:34 AM
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No spots ever! LS is washed weekly with a Dual Bed Deionizer and detailed about every 6 weeks or so. Two buckets wash method with P21s products (sold via auto geek).

I was a believer after the first wash and rise that I just pulled the car back in the garage and let it air dry by its self. It's pricey but time is money and spots drive me crazy.


http://www.portablewaterdi.com/deionizers.php

Dual Bed Deionizer Standard Model

Click to view larger image

The unit is made up of dual tanks using two difference premium resin products. The first tank in the series contains ¼ cubic feet of cation resin and the second tank contains ¼ cubic feet of anion resin. When running these tanks in series you produce approximately 2 ½ times more water and will reduce your operating cost by 50% compared to the single tank mixed bed deionizer. The dual tank will save you money and give you a great return on your investment. The dual tank model comes with all the necessary fittings including a polypropylene cam lever for easy hook-up and only needs a 10" by 20" compact area. Unit weighs a mere 36 pounds. Unit comes complete with the deionizers, 4' high pressure hose, hand-held TDS meter, shut-off valve, and a cap/plug for the inlet/outlet.

Part Number: OTG2-DDI
Design: Dual Bed System
Size: 22" x 6.75" each
Weight: 18 lbs each
Capacity: 0.25 cubic feet
Tank: Dual Tank
*Rinses: Approximate # of rinses before refilling, assuming TDS of 250 PPM: Car - 92; RV Class A - 15
View our capability table for more information
Warranty: 1 Year Limited Warranty
Meter: Portable TDS Hand-held Meter
FlowRate: Less than 2 gallons/minute for best performance & effectiveness
Connector: Polypropylene Cam Lever
MSRP: $ 585.00
Discount: $ 545.00
Quantity: Add To Cart

http://m.flickr.com/photos/33544038@...8515/lightbox/
Old 10/1/13, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by polarisTXguy
No spots ever! LS is washed weekly with a Dual Bed Deionizer and detailed about every 6 weeks or so. Two buckets wash method with P21s products (sold via auto geek).

I was a believer after the first wash and rise that I just pulled the car back in the garage and let it air dry by its self. It's pricey but time is money and spots drive me crazy.


http://www.portablewaterdi.com/deionizers.php

Dual Bed Deionizer Standard Model

Click to view larger image

The unit is made up of dual tanks using two difference premium resin products. The first tank in the series contains ¼ cubic feet of cation resin and the second tank contains ¼ cubic feet of anion resin. When running these tanks in series you produce approximately 2 ½ times more water and will reduce your operating cost by 50% compared to the single tank mixed bed deionizer. The dual tank will save you money and give you a great return on your investment. The dual tank model comes with all the necessary fittings including a polypropylene cam lever for easy hook-up and only needs a 10" by 20" compact area. Unit weighs a mere 36 pounds. Unit comes complete with the deionizers, 4' high pressure hose, hand-held TDS meter, shut-off valve, and a cap/plug for the inlet/outlet.

Part Number: OTG2-DDI
Design: Dual Bed System
Size: 22" x 6.75" each
Weight: 18 lbs each
Capacity: 0.25 cubic feet
Tank: Dual Tank
*Rinses: Approximate # of rinses before refilling, assuming TDS of 250 PPM: Car - 92; RV Class A - 15
View our capability table for more information
Warranty: 1 Year Limited Warranty
Meter: Portable TDS Hand-held Meter
FlowRate: Less than 2 gallons/minute for best performance & effectiveness
Connector: Polypropylene Cam Lever
MSRP: $ 585.00
Discount: $ 545.00
Quantity: Add To Cart

http://m.flickr.com/photos/33544038@...8515/lightbox/
This is a must for black or dark cars and a spot free finish when dealing with hard water. I would also add that you need to wash in the shade or in your garage...and if you're completely **** like I am, not on a windy day.

Get your ride detailed by a good pro you can trust not to leave it looking like a frosted cake. Look at other dark cars they've done and have them do a test panel for you to judge their work. If they won't do that for you, take your business down the road. After your paint is corrected, use nothing but microfiber towels anytime you touch the paint and definitely use the dual bucket method. Do not use detailers on your car after it has even a light coat of dust on it. Dust is dirt and will leave swirl and towel marks.

I also have a black Mustang and have been exactly where you are now. At this point my cars finish looks better than new. Don't give up...a sweet deep clear shine is just around the corner...

John
Old 10/1/13, 11:27 AM
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Dang I can't believe you guys went with deionizers. That's dedication. Yes I'm sure it works great but that's a $$ hit for pure water.

On another note, I wouldn't use spray detailers on my car. It's full of fillers that cover up most of the damage that you are doing to your finish rubbing it on and off your paint. I find that a quick polish job or a thin quick wax job applied with my D/A polisher is the quickest and easiest way to get rid of any of my water spots.
Of course a deionizer would be fantastic for every car owner. Or even a reverse osmosis unit would help a lot.
Old 10/1/13, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by CCTking

Id be way to worried about that acid slowly eatin away the clearcoat and potentially screwin the cars finish. Yea it might be diluted with the wash soap but acid is acid
That is true
Old 10/1/13, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by AlsCobra
Dang I can't believe you guys went with deionizers. That's dedication. Yes I'm sure it works great but that's a $$ hit for pure water. On another note, I wouldn't use spray detailers on my car. It's full of fillers that cover up most of the damage that you are doing to your finish rubbing it on and off your paint. I find that a quick polish job or a thin quick wax job applied with my D/A polisher is the quickest and easiest way to get rid of any of my water spots. Of course a deionizer would be fantastic for every car owner. Or even a reverse osmosis unit would help a lot.
Unfortunately i cant afford a d/a
Old 10/1/13, 05:26 PM
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I have a CR Spotless car wash system I use it on my 44ft Motor Home. Washing and polishing my Stang is a treat compared to the MH :-)
Old 10/1/13, 06:09 PM
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I wash in the shade most of the time. I wash the wheels/tires first. Then work my way up the car and spray water on panels I have already washed so they don't dry up before I get to them with a towel. I dry the car quickly using regular bath towels. I have not had an issue with spots if I get the car dried quick enough. I may go to microfiber towels eventually.
Old 10/1/13, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Automatic 5.0
I wash in the shade most of the time. I wash the wheels/tires first. Then work my way up the car and spray water on panels I have already washed so they don't dry up before I get to them with a towel. I dry the car quickly using regular bath towels. I have not had an issue with spots if I get the car dried quick enough. I may go to microfiber towels eventually.
The sinner you move to MF towels the better, those bath towels can really wreak havoc on paint leavin swirls marks and marring (small scratches) the surface. Also good start with hittin the wheels and rims first but try go from the roof down to the bottom that way all the dirt just washes off with the natural flow of the water


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