JonCo

Truer words were never spoken. The car revs MUCH faster, he tweak throttle. Also I went from a rich running car to now a tuned car. Even under 2500-3000k the car pulls nicer then before. And the less restrictive intake made the car really sound nice.

Today I was merging on the highway and hit 100 and slowed down 2 seconds later. Someone calls me and they asked if I just pulled on the highway and if I was in my car. And I said yes to both. She was like OMG you just passed in front and your car was so loud and nice. haha, I love it

Now its "safe" to drop from 5th to 4th and slam the pedal and feel the rush. I'm trying to see whats ok for the motor and tranny and still have fun. Is it ok to down shift and hit right into boost and be cool? Stupid question I know, bare with me.

But yeah, little by little. Even when the car was stock I rarely went WOT. I like to do nice 3rd/4th gear pulls on the highway's though Even more now once I get into it.

Safety first always though.

89Trooper

Sure... as long as your A/F ratio is in check. You'll have to feel it out on how your clutch likes it, though.

That's the main reason why I dropped my boost. The clutch wouldn't be able to handle the 600 ft-lbs of torque for long that I was feeding it! Well, okay... 595 ft-lbs.

USMC0341

Congrats Tom

TacoBill

Wow.. that's like hitting a homerun with your friend's girl first.





You know what my answer is.. staggered.. 285.



I don't want to scare anyone, but just saying.. just be prepared for anything, and I mean anything. The sh*t can hit the fan without warning if anything goes south.
Make your plans now to go forged, so if or when it happens, you won't cry like a little b*tch like I did.



(Not directed at you specifically Tom, but a general statement to all)
Don't put all your trust in your A/F ratio. Sure, it makes all the difference in the world on the life of your engine, but it's no guarantee that your bottom will hold together.

USMC0341

Looks like someone's not happy with tacobill



thread....http://www.mustangforums.com/m_4983443/tm.htm

JonCo

I do blame Bill for giving me mod ideas, as the same goes for this entire thread. I should collect some sort of offering. I deserve to be compensated for everything I've put in.

Thank you. Make checks payable to Jonathan C......

JonCo

Thats what I did when I bought my rims. I wish I'd gone staggered now. I may end up doing that next year.

matko

I pretty sure you can go as wide as 275/40 on the 9" rims. (When it comes time to re-tire of course). That's what I had on my F-body (oops) cars with 9" rims.

JedCranium

One...George where do you find this stuff !. That's to funny! Maybe Bill should be signing instead of Vic tomorrow at Edelbrock Okay back to Mill'a time, actually I don't drink MGD, tequilla all the way! A little Joe Crow


Jed

habu

Tom. The decision between staggered or not is a PITA. So, uh.... wheres the pics already ??


Way to go Jon I've heard of issues "boosting into 5th" so you might want to be careful. We're pushing the motors for more than what they were designed for so be wise. Which is, of course, hard to do with your foot to the floor and the blower screaming at you.
OK twice in 24 hours George almost makes me spit my beer out @ the monitor....


Hate to do this guys, but I'm out for the Edelbrock show. Gots to get some stuff done up here and today was a bust so it's tomorrow for me. Sorry.

89Trooper

Well, boost alone won't blow an engine. It has to be coupled with a lean A/F ratio, excessive timing, low octane gas, or something else that would cause detonation. It's because of my low A/F ratio, 93 octane gas, and conservative timing that I was able to run 14 psi of boost without an issue. If the tune wasn't right, I could have easily blown my engine during those first 2 dyno pulls.

What I meant, Jon, was this:

I think max power is at 12.5:1 A/F ratio, so as long as you are richer (around 11.5:1 or 11.7:1) then that is a good thing.

You said your timing was very conservative... also a good thing.

What boost are you at? As long as you are 8psi or lower, then that is a good thing.

Now, if you are always taking your car to the track every weekend, then of course you will weaken and wear it out quicker.

89Trooper

For a daily driver, it is just economically stupid to stagger the rims to force myself to have to spend $600 for rear tires... AND not be able to rotate them to the front!

Another thing to consider is that the car will look NO different from the side. The height is the same. The sidewall is the same. The 18x10's have a slightly higher offset, so the extra .5" that would stick out is actually tucked back under the car.

I'm just going to have to stick with all 18x9's and 255/45-18's...

JonCo

I think I'm with you on everything. Under WOT I go into 11.3-11.7? I think Timing is very conservative. He did a conservative tune and then took it some even from there. To make sure we're running safe.

PSI, I think I'm actually at 10. Isn't that what the HO does. Least from what I read and understood from him? I could be wrong

89Trooper

11.3 to 11.7 is very good. You do know what that means, right? Just in case, that's 11.3 parts air to 1 part fuel. 12.5:1 get the most power, but you have more air to that 1 part fuel. 14.7:1 is the best for fuel economy... that's a stoichiometric mixture that is ideal and will produce the most complete combustion. Under WOT, the more air you have to fuel, the more you run the risk of burning holes in your pistons, detonation, and ultimately blowing your engine.

With the tune conservative, Bill is right... there are other things to consider... like driving style. Always taking it to the redline? Always dumping the clutch? These things will lessen the life of your engine and drive train.

I'm a pretty conservative driver. I don't do all the clutch dumping and redline shifts. I do have fun though... and **** GT-500 & Corvette owners off:

My favorite thing to do is to let a car get slightly ahead of me and then slowly squeeze the throttle to about half way down in 2nd and the same in 3rd. That's all it takes to slowly bring in the boost to about 5psi and leave them in my dust (while blowing off my boost during the 2-3 shift into their open window).

I did that tonight when driving home. 9 imports were showing off for me (I guess they didn't see the Turbo emblem). I let them get ahead of me with their fart pipes blaring at WOT... then I moved to the third lane and clicked them off 1 by 1.

JonCo

I'll drive tomorrow some more. I seriously cannot wait. Washing the car tomorrow

89Trooper

Yeah, I'm at like 11.3-11.7 from what I saw. I'll look at the dyno tomorrow morning, I left it in the car. Been doing a paper all night. JUST finished and its now 1am...
Scan and post the graph if you can.

Durning driving I was seeing 14.7-15(tops). And decell at 16 for a second. Now I imagine its normal to see the wideband jump around as you drive. Never really on one set number for too long. It just plays in a range and then the 16 for w/e. So when they say lean thats too much air not enough fuel which is on which side of the wideband numbers? And rich is too much fuel which is safer for the car over running lean. Correct?
Yes... normal to see it jump around. Rich is safer then lean, but too rich can foul plugs. Here's what you should see:

WOT: Way richer than 14.7, so you will see the 11.3 to 11.7 that you say you saw.
Cruising: Bouncing around 14.7... it's the oxygen sensors and the computer pulsing the injectors trying to constantly stay at the ideal mixture.
Decel: Will go lean... up to around the 16 you saw. This is normal as the computer will pull fuel since you don't need power to decelerate.

Is it still cool to down shift to decell or is it better to just hit neutral and coast? Sorry for the 20 Q's. I'm just picking your brain.
Definitely OK to still down shift to help stop the car. Blip the throttle to match RPMs and you'll save your clutch and brakes.

Only worry about a lean condition at WOT... other times it will go lean.

Ray Man

A little late here... Congrats Jon!!!

kh765

+1 I just got caught up. Gotta see those pics...

StangMahn

by blipping the throttle, you mean, rev it while the clutch is in, to match where the revs will be if you just let off the clutch after downshifting? so that it just doesnt jump from low revs (with the clutch in) back to high revs when you downshift?

jon, youre a better man than me if you could get a paper done, knowing that here's a supercharged mustang sitting outside begging to be driven, hell, I'd take a NA mustang!

TacoBill

That's my Fan Club for ya!
Batman PM'd me to chime in to call the wolves off.. too funny.



Disagree.
Why do you think manufactures put a HP load limit on components? Your A/F could be spot on as well as your tune parameters, but pushing your engine beyond what it's designed for will result in a catastrophic failure.

Brian, Jed, Jon.. willing to crank up your boost to yield over 500hp to the wheels with your stock bottom end and drive it like you stole it? I didn't think so.

Our rods and pistons are time bombs, don't be fooled thinking that they can handle whatever you throw at it just because you have a good tune.



Brian, guess you're economically stupid.

Not to worry though, you'll be in good company soon.