Ponies on The Run (Again)
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Your doing the wise thing, take it easy get use to the power under diffrent diving conditions and roads. Don't discover it all one afternoon with hyper friends unless, they pitch in for repairs. To this day I haven't done full WOT getting on the freeway I've come close but all this traffic around here the car is begging for the open road or track. As Brian/Habu mention 100 MPH comes in real fast. At cruise on the freeway drop it in 4th and the pull is amazing. AHHHH! I love it! It's like a time machine just seeing cars shrink in the rear view!
Okay I'm going to leave work now all the talk about speed has got me jacked up to go ride in the ROUSH! It's a beautiful Cali afternoon! Have fun JonCo and be safe Can't wait to see some vids.
TacoBill it's Mill'a time!
Jed
Okay I'm going to leave work now all the talk about speed has got me jacked up to go ride in the ROUSH! It's a beautiful Cali afternoon! Have fun JonCo and be safe Can't wait to see some vids.
TacoBill it's Mill'a time!
Jed
Today I was merging on the highway and hit 100 and slowed down 2 seconds later. Someone calls me and they asked if I just pulled on the highway and if I was in my car. And I said yes to both. She was like OMG you just passed in front and your car was so loud and nice. haha, I love it
Now its "safe" to drop from 5th to 4th and slam the pedal and feel the rush. I'm trying to see whats ok for the motor and tranny and still have fun. Is it ok to down shift and hit right into boost and be cool? Stupid question I know, bare with me.
But yeah, little by little. Even when the car was stock I rarely went WOT. I like to do nice 3rd/4th gear pulls on the highway's though Even more now once I get into it.
Safety first always though.
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That's the main reason why I dropped my boost. The clutch wouldn't be able to handle the 600 ft-lbs of torque for long that I was feeding it! Well, okay... 595 ft-lbs.
Last edited by 89Trooper; 4/26/08 at 08:23 PM.
Wow.. that's like hitting a homerun with your friend's girl first.
You know what my answer is.. staggered.. 285.
Make your plans now to go forged, so if or when it happens, you won't cry like a little b*tch like I did.
(Not directed at you specifically Tom, but a general statement to all)
Don't put all your trust in your A/F ratio. Sure, it makes all the difference in the world on the life of your engine, but it's no guarantee that your bottom will hold together.
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I do blame Bill for giving me mod ideas, as the same goes for this entire thread. I should collect some sort of offering. I deserve to be compensated for everything I've put in.
Thank you. Make checks payable to Jonathan C......
Thank you. Make checks payable to Jonathan C......
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I'm ordering the Mach 1 rims on Monday... for $20 more, I can get 8x10's for the rear. Then it would be:
255/45-18 on the front
285/40-18 on the rear
The good - they are the exact same height and sidewall and would look great from the rear. Over an inch wider...
The bad - 285/40-18 BFG's are close to $300 a piece! So, 2 new tires would cost me as much as the new rims. Plus, I can't rotate front to rear, anymore.
I think I'll stay with the 255/45-18's all the way around.
255/45-18 on the front
285/40-18 on the rear
The good - they are the exact same height and sidewall and would look great from the rear. Over an inch wider...
The bad - 285/40-18 BFG's are close to $300 a piece! So, 2 new tires would cost me as much as the new rims. Plus, I can't rotate front to rear, anymore.
I think I'll stay with the 255/45-18's all the way around.
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I'm ordering the Mach 1 rims on Monday... for $20 more, I can get 8x10's for the rear. Then it would be:
255/45-18 on the front
285/40-18 on the rear
The good - they are the exact same height and sidewall and would look great from the rear. Over an inch wider...
The bad - 285/40-18 BFG's are close to $300 a piece! So, 2 new tires would cost me as much as the new rims. Plus, I can't rotate front to rear, anymore.
I think I'll stay with the 255/45-18's all the way around.
255/45-18 on the front
285/40-18 on the rear
The good - they are the exact same height and sidewall and would look great from the rear. Over an inch wider...
The bad - 285/40-18 BFG's are close to $300 a piece! So, 2 new tires would cost me as much as the new rims. Plus, I can't rotate front to rear, anymore.
I think I'll stay with the 255/45-18's all the way around.
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Looks like someone's not happy with tacobill
thread....http://www.mustangforums.com/m_4983443/tm.htm
thread....http://www.mustangforums.com/m_4983443/tm.htm
Jed
Team Mustang Source
I'm ordering the Mach 1 rims on Monday... for $20 more, I can get 8x10's for the rear. Then it would be:
255/45-18 on the front
285/40-18 on the rear
The good - they are the exact same height and sidewall and would look great from the rear. Over an inch wider...
The bad - 285/40-18 BFG's are close to $300 a piece! So, 2 new tires would cost me as much as the new rims. Plus, I can't rotate front to rear, anymore.
I think I'll stay with the 255/45-18's all the way around.
255/45-18 on the front
285/40-18 on the rear
The good - they are the exact same height and sidewall and would look great from the rear. Over an inch wider...
The bad - 285/40-18 BFG's are close to $300 a piece! So, 2 new tires would cost me as much as the new rims. Plus, I can't rotate front to rear, anymore.
I think I'll stay with the 255/45-18's all the way around.
Truer words were never spoken. The car revs MUCH faster, he tweak throttle. Also I went from a rich running car to now a tuned car. Even under 2500-3000k the car pulls nicer then before. And the less restrictive intake made the car really sound nice.
Today I was merging on the highway and hit 100 and slowed down 2 seconds later. Someone calls me and they asked if I just pulled on the highway and if I was in my car. And I said yes to both. She was like OMG you just passed in front and your car was so loud and nice. haha, I love it
Now its "safe" to drop from 5th to 4th and slam the pedal and feel the rush. I'm trying to see whats ok for the motor and tranny and still have fun. Is it ok to down shift and hit right into boost and be cool? Stupid question I know, bare with me.
But yeah, little by little. Even when the car was stock I rarely went WOT. I like to do nice 3rd/4th gear pulls on the highway's though Even more now once I get into it.
Safety first always though.
Today I was merging on the highway and hit 100 and slowed down 2 seconds later. Someone calls me and they asked if I just pulled on the highway and if I was in my car. And I said yes to both. She was like OMG you just passed in front and your car was so loud and nice. haha, I love it
Now its "safe" to drop from 5th to 4th and slam the pedal and feel the rush. I'm trying to see whats ok for the motor and tranny and still have fun. Is it ok to down shift and hit right into boost and be cool? Stupid question I know, bare with me.
But yeah, little by little. Even when the car was stock I rarely went WOT. I like to do nice 3rd/4th gear pulls on the highway's though Even more now once I get into it.
Safety first always though.
Way to go Jon I've heard of issues "boosting into 5th" so you might want to be careful. We're pushing the motors for more than what they were designed for so be wise. Which is, of course, hard to do with your foot to the floor and the blower screaming at you.
Looks like someone's not happy with tacobill
thread....http://www.mustangforums.com/m_4983443/tm.htm
thread....http://www.mustangforums.com/m_4983443/tm.htm
Hate to do this guys, but I'm out for the Edelbrock show. Gots to get some stuff done up here and today was a bust so it's tomorrow for me. Sorry.
Last edited by habu; 4/26/08 at 10:22 PM.
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What I meant, Jon, was this:
I think max power is at 12.5:1 A/F ratio, so as long as you are richer (around 11.5:1 or 11.7:1) then that is a good thing.
You said your timing was very conservative... also a good thing.
What boost are you at? As long as you are 8psi or lower, then that is a good thing.
Now, if you are always taking your car to the track every weekend, then of course you will weaken and wear it out quicker.
Last edited by 89Trooper; 4/27/08 at 08:06 AM.
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Another thing to consider is that the car will look NO different from the side. The height is the same. The sidewall is the same. The 18x10's have a slightly higher offset, so the extra .5" that would stick out is actually tucked back under the car.
I'm just going to have to stick with all 18x9's and 255/45-18's...
Last edited by 89Trooper; 4/26/08 at 10:36 PM.
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Well, high boost alone won't blow an engine. It has to be coupled with a lean A/F ratio, excessive timing, low octane gas, or something else that would cause detonation. It's because of my low A/F ratio, 93 octane gas, and conservative timing that I was able to run 14 psi of boost without an issue. If the tune wasn't right, I could have easily blown my engine during those first 2 dyno pulls.
What I meant, Jon, was this:
I think max power is at 12.5:1 A/F ratio, so as long as you are richer (around 11.5:1 or 11.7:1) then that is a good thing.
You said your timing was very conservative... also a good thing.
What boost are you at? As long as you are 8psi or lower, then that is a good thing.
Now, if you are always taking your car to the track every weekend, then of course you will weaken and wear it out quicker.
What I meant, Jon, was this:
I think max power is at 12.5:1 A/F ratio, so as long as you are richer (around 11.5:1 or 11.7:1) then that is a good thing.
You said your timing was very conservative... also a good thing.
What boost are you at? As long as you are 8psi or lower, then that is a good thing.
Now, if you are always taking your car to the track every weekend, then of course you will weaken and wear it out quicker.
PSI, I think I'm actually at 10. Isn't that what the HO does. Least from what I read and understood from him? I could be wrong
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I think I'm with you on everything. Under WOT I go into 11.3-11.7? I think Timing is very conservative. He did a conservative tune and then took it some even from there. To make sure we're running safe.
PSI, I think I'm actually at 10. Isn't that what the HO does. Least from what I read and understood from him? I could be wrong
PSI, I think I'm actually at 10. Isn't that what the HO does. Least from what I read and understood from him? I could be wrong
With the tune conservative, Bill is right... there are other things to consider... like driving style. Always taking it to the redline? Always dumping the clutch? These things will lessen the life of your engine and drive train.
I'm a pretty conservative driver. I don't do all the clutch dumping and redline shifts. I do have fun though... and **** GT-500 & Corvette owners off:
My favorite thing to do is to let a car get slightly ahead of me and then slowly squeeze the throttle to about half way down in 2nd and the same in 3rd. That's all it takes to slowly bring in the boost to about 5psi and leave them in my dust (while blowing off my boost during the 2-3 shift into their open window).
I did that tonight when driving home. 9 imports were showing off for me (I guess they didn't see the Turbo emblem). I let them get ahead of me with their fart pipes blaring at WOT... then I moved to the third lane and clicked them off 1 by 1.
Last edited by 89Trooper; 4/26/08 at 10:53 PM.
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11.3 to 11.7 is very good. You do know what that means, right? Just in case, that's 11.3 parts air to 1 part fuel. 12.5:1 get the most power, but you have more air to that 1 part fuel. 14.7:1 is the best for fuel economy... that's a stoichiometric mixture that is ideal and will produce the most complete combustion. Under WOT, the more air you have to fuel, the more you run the risk of burning holes in your pistons, detonation, and ultimately blowing your engine.
Yeah, I'm at like 11.3-11.7 from what I saw. I'll look at the dyno tomorrow morning, I left it in the car. Been doing a paper all night. JUST finished and its now 1am...
No, I dont know alot about the whole wideband thing. So feel free to get into as much detail(for the common man) as you like. I like to learn new things.
Durning driving I was seeing 14.7-15(tops). And decell at 16 for a second. Now I imagine its normal to see the wideband jump around as you drive. Never really on one set number for too long. It just plays in a range and then the 16 for w/e. So when they say lean thats too much air not enough fuel which is on which side of the wideband numbers? And rich is too much fuel which is safer for the car over running lean. Correct?
Is it still cool to down sit to decell or is it better to just hit neutral and coast? Sorry for the 20 Q's. I'm just picking your brain.
With the tune conservative, Bill is right... there are other things to consider... like driving style. Always taking it to the redline? Always dumping the clutch? These things will lessen the life of your engine and drive train.
I've only hit rev limiter once ever on accident. And always shift plenty before redline. I dont play too rough. Again, I bearly accel REALLY hard anyways. I just like to hit 2nd to 3rd to 4th. Going at good speeds.
I'm a pretty conservative driver. I don't do all the clutch dumping and redline shifts. I do have fun though... and **** GT-500 & Corvette owners off:
My favorite thing to do is to let a car get slightly ahead of me and then slowly squeeze the throttle to about half way down in 2nd and the same in 3rd. That's all it takes to slowly bring in the boost to about 5psi and leave them in my dust (while blowing off my boost during the 2-3 shift into their open window).
I did that tonight when driving home. 9 imports were showing off for me (I guess they didn't see the Turbo emblem). I let them get ahead of me with their fart pipes blaring at WOT... then I moved to the third lane and clicked them off 1 by 1.
Yeah, I'm at like 11.3-11.7 from what I saw. I'll look at the dyno tomorrow morning, I left it in the car. Been doing a paper all night. JUST finished and its now 1am...
No, I dont know alot about the whole wideband thing. So feel free to get into as much detail(for the common man) as you like. I like to learn new things.
Durning driving I was seeing 14.7-15(tops). And decell at 16 for a second. Now I imagine its normal to see the wideband jump around as you drive. Never really on one set number for too long. It just plays in a range and then the 16 for w/e. So when they say lean thats too much air not enough fuel which is on which side of the wideband numbers? And rich is too much fuel which is safer for the car over running lean. Correct?
Is it still cool to down sit to decell or is it better to just hit neutral and coast? Sorry for the 20 Q's. I'm just picking your brain.
With the tune conservative, Bill is right... there are other things to consider... like driving style. Always taking it to the redline? Always dumping the clutch? These things will lessen the life of your engine and drive train.
I've only hit rev limiter once ever on accident. And always shift plenty before redline. I dont play too rough. Again, I bearly accel REALLY hard anyways. I just like to hit 2nd to 3rd to 4th. Going at good speeds.
I'm a pretty conservative driver. I don't do all the clutch dumping and redline shifts. I do have fun though... and **** GT-500 & Corvette owners off:
My favorite thing to do is to let a car get slightly ahead of me and then slowly squeeze the throttle to about half way down in 2nd and the same in 3rd. That's all it takes to slowly bring in the boost to about 5psi and leave them in my dust (while blowing off my boost during the 2-3 shift into their open window).
I did that tonight when driving home. 9 imports were showing off for me (I guess they didn't see the Turbo emblem). I let them get ahead of me with their fart pipes blaring at WOT... then I moved to the third lane and clicked them off 1 by 1.
I'll drive tomorrow some more. I seriously cannot wait. Washing the car tomorrow
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Yeah, I'm at like 11.3-11.7 from what I saw. I'll look at the dyno tomorrow morning, I left it in the car. Been doing a paper all night. JUST finished and its now 1am...
Scan and post the graph if you can.
Durning driving I was seeing 14.7-15(tops). And decell at 16 for a second. Now I imagine its normal to see the wideband jump around as you drive. Never really on one set number for too long. It just plays in a range and then the 16 for w/e. So when they say lean thats too much air not enough fuel which is on which side of the wideband numbers? And rich is too much fuel which is safer for the car over running lean. Correct?
Yes... normal to see it jump around. Rich is safer then lean, but too rich can foul plugs. Here's what you should see:
WOT: Way richer than 14.7, so you will see the 11.3 to 11.7 that you say you saw.
Cruising: Bouncing around 14.7... it's the oxygen sensors and the computer pulsing the injectors trying to constantly stay at the ideal mixture.
Decel: Will go lean... up to around the 16 you saw. This is normal as the computer will pull fuel since you don't need power to decelerate.
Is it still cool to down shift to decell or is it better to just hit neutral and coast? Sorry for the 20 Q's. I'm just picking your brain.
Definitely OK to still down shift to help stop the car. Blip the throttle to match RPMs and you'll save your clutch and brakes.
Only worry about a lean condition at WOT... other times it will go lean.
Scan and post the graph if you can.
Durning driving I was seeing 14.7-15(tops). And decell at 16 for a second. Now I imagine its normal to see the wideband jump around as you drive. Never really on one set number for too long. It just plays in a range and then the 16 for w/e. So when they say lean thats too much air not enough fuel which is on which side of the wideband numbers? And rich is too much fuel which is safer for the car over running lean. Correct?
Yes... normal to see it jump around. Rich is safer then lean, but too rich can foul plugs. Here's what you should see:
WOT: Way richer than 14.7, so you will see the 11.3 to 11.7 that you say you saw.
Cruising: Bouncing around 14.7... it's the oxygen sensors and the computer pulsing the injectors trying to constantly stay at the ideal mixture.
Decel: Will go lean... up to around the 16 you saw. This is normal as the computer will pull fuel since you don't need power to decelerate.
Is it still cool to down shift to decell or is it better to just hit neutral and coast? Sorry for the 20 Q's. I'm just picking your brain.
Definitely OK to still down shift to help stop the car. Blip the throttle to match RPMs and you'll save your clutch and brakes.
Only worry about a lean condition at WOT... other times it will go lean.
Last edited by 89Trooper; 4/26/08 at 11:20 PM.
NTTAWWT
by blipping the throttle, you mean, rev it while the clutch is in, to match where the revs will be if you just let off the clutch after downshifting? so that it just doesnt jump from low revs (with the clutch in) back to high revs when you downshift?
jon, youre a better man than me if you could get a paper done, knowing that here's a supercharged mustang sitting outside begging to be driven, hell, I'd take a NA mustang!
jon, youre a better man than me if you could get a paper done, knowing that here's a supercharged mustang sitting outside begging to be driven, hell, I'd take a NA mustang!
Last edited by StangMahn; 4/26/08 at 11:57 PM.
Looks like someone's not happy with tacobill
thread....http://www.mustangforums.com/m_4983443/tm.htm
thread....http://www.mustangforums.com/m_4983443/tm.htm
That's my Fan Club for ya!
Batman PM'd me to chime in to call the wolves off.. too funny.
Why do you think manufactures put a HP load limit on components? Your A/F could be spot on as well as your tune parameters, but pushing your engine beyond what it's designed for will result in a catastrophic failure.
Brian, Jed, Jon.. willing to crank up your boost to yield over 500hp to the wheels with your stock bottom end and drive it like you stole it? I didn't think so.
Our rods and pistons are time bombs, don't be fooled thinking that they can handle whatever you throw at it just because you have a good tune.
Not to worry though, you'll be in good company soon.