Ponies on The Run (Again)
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There definetely should be.....
Forgot to post these awesome pics that Jed took last week.
Thanks Jed!
Thanks Jed!
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Tasca Super Boss 429 Member
I work for a company that is part of Kidde. We stopped using Halon a long time ago and switched to FM-200 which is a clean agent as well.
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Great pics Bill and Jed! Jed's signature is the first pic where he adds the gleam on the rear tire rim.
Bigger tires and forced induction Bill! I'll never let up on forced induction! If only......................
I'm still not a fan of the MGW shift ****. It doesn't work for me. Everything else about your GT is mint.
Jed you take awesome pictures. Hands down good.
Bigger tires and forced induction Bill! I'll never let up on forced induction! If only......................
I'm still not a fan of the MGW shift ****. It doesn't work for me. Everything else about your GT is mint.
Jed you take awesome pictures. Hands down good.
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OK OK here are a few pics of my HID's. Please be nice to me guys. Also it just rained before I pulled the Pony into the garage, yes daily driver here who gets driven in the rain Bill. Gosh I cringe posting these pics.
First pic is a contrast between the headlights and the fog's. I chose the 4300K color as I wanted the most amount of light lumen's vs. blue/purple color. 4300K is still fairly white.
The rest plus the engine bay which is going to cause me grief from you guys, I can hear it coming my way.................. Lat pic shows the igniter and the hi/ow beam relay.
First pic is a contrast between the headlights and the fog's. I chose the 4300K color as I wanted the most amount of light lumen's vs. blue/purple color. 4300K is still fairly white.
The rest plus the engine bay which is going to cause me grief from you guys, I can hear it coming my way.................. Lat pic shows the igniter and the hi/ow beam relay.
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Join Date: April 9, 2007
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Question. What do I need to look for when buying a tuner? Theres a couple good deals on the "For Sale" section but what would I need to look for my 05' 5spd 3.55 Mustang GT?
Long tubes are slowly becoming a reality
Long tubes are slowly becoming a reality
Could be a message from above!
I agree, I need a little more meat out back fo sho'!
That's bright! Not worried about getting hassled by the Texas Rangers?
The HID's make the fogs look yellow.
What about heat? Can the stock reflector/housing handle it?
I think the most important thing is the Calibration Code and transmission type (btw, Autos and Manuals are 5-spds; be sure you know which one it's for). Rear axle ratio can be selected in the handheld.
Plus, all the mods (if any) that the included tune was written for must be exactly what you have.
Keep in mind, buying a used tune won't get you any future support if you add/delete any mods. Just something to think about.
I agree, I need a little more meat out back fo sho'!
That's bright! Not worried about getting hassled by the Texas Rangers?
The HID's make the fogs look yellow.
What about heat? Can the stock reflector/housing handle it?
Plus, all the mods (if any) that the included tune was written for must be exactly what you have.
Keep in mind, buying a used tune won't get you any future support if you add/delete any mods. Just something to think about.
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Join Date: January 15, 2007
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I'm still looking into getting the compact HalGuard clean agent fire extinguisher in chome along with their custom polished billet bracket.
It's a good idea for everyone, especially for me with all the custom wiring I did in my cupholder area and behind the radio.
Looks good, but costs around $260 plus shipping (thru Summit).
It's a good idea for everyone, especially for me with all the custom wiring I did in my cupholder area and behind the radio.
Looks good, but costs around $260 plus shipping (thru Summit).
For me, it's pretty much just for show anyway.... (at shows around here, a fire extinguisher and first aid kit give you a couple extra points or is considered a tie-breaker). (knock wood, by the way, in that hopefully I won't actually need it)
Shelby GT350 Member
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I think the most important thing is the Calibration Code and transmission type (btw, Autos and Manuals are 5-spds; be sure you know which one it's for). Rear axle ratio can be selected in the handheld.
Plus, all the mods (if any) that the included tune was written for must be exactly what you have.
Keep in mind, buying a used tune won't get you any future support if you add/delete any mods. Just something to think about.[/quote]
Oh so if a tuner was originally sold for an auto it cant be changed to be used by a manual? Hmm... That pretty much voids any ideas I may have had. What do you mean by future support?
Plus, all the mods (if any) that the included tune was written for must be exactly what you have.
Keep in mind, buying a used tune won't get you any future support if you add/delete any mods. Just something to think about.[/quote]
Oh so if a tuner was originally sold for an auto it cant be changed to be used by a manual? Hmm... That pretty much voids any ideas I may have had. What do you mean by future support?
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NEW TIRES ARE ON!!!!!! SORRY NO PICS THE SUN'S GONE.
After getting the tires on I took the car to MY secret proving grounds. I totally back Tom now about the tires making a huge difference. With the old tires the rear tires would break lose and the rear end would kick out when going WOT from a stop. Tried it a couple times with the new tires and all I got was a quick squeel and I was off no rear kick out just straight line accleration. Just like Tom said though it takes a little of the fun out of going WOT. Of course If I were to launch from 1500 or 2000 I'm sure the wheels will kick out. Good thing is I can now go back to the track and not have to worry about driving the car into the wall.
Bill-I think as long as you stayed N/A 285's would be a real challenge for you to break loose.
"Road Noise" I didn't hear anything over my O/R H and Stingers.
One thing I did notice now though is I need an ADJ panhard. You can blatantly see that the drivers side tire sticks out more than the passenger side (OK maybe "blatantly" is a bit much but I noticed it and I wasn't even looking for it. Looks like the mirrors may have to go on hold so I can get the panhard and why not the panhard support while I'm down there.
After getting the tires on I took the car to MY secret proving grounds. I totally back Tom now about the tires making a huge difference. With the old tires the rear tires would break lose and the rear end would kick out when going WOT from a stop. Tried it a couple times with the new tires and all I got was a quick squeel and I was off no rear kick out just straight line accleration. Just like Tom said though it takes a little of the fun out of going WOT. Of course If I were to launch from 1500 or 2000 I'm sure the wheels will kick out. Good thing is I can now go back to the track and not have to worry about driving the car into the wall.
Bill-I think as long as you stayed N/A 285's would be a real challenge for you to break loose.
"Road Noise" I didn't hear anything over my O/R H and Stingers.
One thing I did notice now though is I need an ADJ panhard. You can blatantly see that the drivers side tire sticks out more than the passenger side (OK maybe "blatantly" is a bit much but I noticed it and I wasn't even looking for it. Looks like the mirrors may have to go on hold so I can get the panhard and why not the panhard support while I'm down there.
Shelby GT350 Member
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I've narrowed it down to two contestants for my L/T set up. MAC 3/4(Does it really make that big a difference in the sound dept? being only 3/4?) Long Tube Ceramic coated with O/R Prochamber... OR OBX 304SS True Long Tube with O/R H. Prices and brand aside. Its all about the deepest crisp sound. I want a noticable difference over stock with GTA's.
What would you choose? And if you know of any videos with similar set ups please post them. Only thing that slightly worries me is having the OBX system sound tinny in WOT. I know from reviews the prochamber smoothes it out. But I'm still after a loud system, but refined I guess I should say.
Help?
What would you choose? And if you know of any videos with similar set ups please post them. Only thing that slightly worries me is having the OBX system sound tinny in WOT. I know from reviews the prochamber smoothes it out. But I'm still after a loud system, but refined I guess I should say.
Help?
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As far as heat because they are only 35W instead of the O.E.M. 55W standard and as such are much cooler to be perfectly honest. I read somewhere where someone did a surface temp check on the front of the headlight and it was MUCH cooler then the std light. Plus I did an old fashion hand check where I left the old non HID light in on the right side and the new HID on the left side and checked with the hand and what I found is the old std on the right side was much hotter to touch then the HID side.
I've been running the HID in the 4Runner and Civic reflectors for a few years now and have had no issues in any regards.
Its just nice to have better night vision now with the HID's.
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I've narrowed it down to two contestants for my L/T set up. MAC 3/4(Does it really make that big a difference in the sound dept? being only 3/4?) Long Tube Ceramic coated with O/R Prochamber... OR OBX 304SS True Long Tube with O/R H. Prices and brand aside. Its all about the deepest crisp sound. I want a noticable difference over stock with GTA's.
What would you choose? And if you know of any videos with similar set ups please post them. Only thing that slightly worries me is having the OBX system sound tinny in WOT. I know from reviews the prochamber smoothes it out. But I'm still after a loud system, but refined I guess I should say.
Help?
What would you choose? And if you know of any videos with similar set ups please post them. Only thing that slightly worries me is having the OBX system sound tinny in WOT. I know from reviews the prochamber smoothes it out. But I'm still after a loud system, but refined I guess I should say.
Help?