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Ponies on The Run (Again)

Old 5/2/07, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Boltzman View Post
Oh yeah THIS IS MY 3000th post!
Ya`ll are a bunch of sick, sick posting-Whor$$.

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Old 5/2/07, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Boltzman View Post
Steeda front Ultralites being installed as we speak. I told the guy that everyone that had these said no camber bolts were needed. He has his doubts I told him toe will need adjusting. Also having Mobil 1 put in for 1st time I was unaware though that once you put in full synthetic,you can never go back to regular oil. anything I should tell guy when I go to pick it up?(so he knows that he can't pull a fast one on me)

Oh yeah THIS IS MY 3000th post!
You won't need the camber bolts and toe will be very close, but he'll have to dial it in a little. I never had to touch my toe, and did the camber myself and could get it right to the -.75° (best setting).

You can go back to regular oil after you use synthetic (synthetic is fully compatible). Why couldn't you? After having regular oil in for a bunch of miles and then you go to synthetic, you'll have to change the synthetic quicker than normal. This is because of all the crap that it will clean out. That's why I put synthetic in at 1000 miles, and then every 5000-6000 miles after that, but probably still fine up to 7500 miles.
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Old 5/2/07, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by karman View Post
On the other hand, in my town when a real crime is committed they usually catch the criminals.
You mean they actually catch the criminals who steal the milk bottles off someone's porch?



Originally Posted by pville piper View Post
I guess there will be no chance for Leo now!
Agreed!!


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Steeda front Ultralites being installed as we speak. I told the guy that everyone that had these said no camber bolts were needed. He has his doubts
Camber bolts will be required if he wants to shoot for 0 degees. Otherwise, remind him that Ford's tolerance goes up to -1.5 degrees.


I told him toe will need adjusting.
Maybe..


Also having Mobil 1 put in for 1st time I was unaware though that once you put in full synthetic,you can never go back to regular oil.
Huh? I never heard of that. Besides, 1. You wouldn't go back to 'regular' oil, it's factory filled with semi-synthetic. And, 2. Why would you want to resort back to inferior oil?


Anything I should tell guy when I go to pick it up?(so he knows that he can't pull a fast one on me)
Why didn't you install the springs yourself?
Your brain is pre-loaded with TacoBill knowledge!

I hope the installer took care when transferring over the strut bearing cap (Leo can tell you what happens when you man-handle them).
Also, make sure he installs the rear springs with the loose coils on the axle side, tight wound coils up into the body.

Post pics when you get it.


Oh yeah THIS IS MY 3000th post!
Congrats. I'm almost at the 4k mark.
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Old 5/2/07, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by pville piper View Post


I guess there will be no chance for Leo now!


Originally Posted by Boltzman View Post
Steeda front Ultralites being installed as we speak. I told the guy that everyone that had these said no camber bolts were needed. He has his doubts I told him toe will need adjusting. Also having Mobil 1 put in for 1st time I was unaware though that once you put in full synthetic,you can never go back to regular oil. anything I should tell guy when I go to pick it up?(so he knows that he can't pull a fast one on me)

Oh yeah THIS IS MY 3000th post!
Congrats on your 3000th post. Glad to see your finally installing the front springs.

Bill-He already has the rear springs installed.
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Old 5/2/07, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by LEO_06GT View Post
Bill-He already has the rear springs installed.
Yeah, I knew that. ( , I forgot.)

Well ,he can double check the orientation anyways.
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Old 5/2/07, 03:50 PM
  #8566  
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Well,it seems I need camber bolts. Here is the spec sheet. The caps were taken care of fine.(No damage). heres the real kicker..I also need a panhard bar . I do not have the equipment to do this job myself ,have any friends that do,or really care to mess w/ loaded springs.. The labor was 2 hrs(150.00). I know(could me more mods) but oh well..I need Leo's awesome research skills to search for lowest price on panhard bar and camber bolts(if he doesn't already know)..The ride seemed a little more harsh(don't know if thats because of the pigeon toed wheels) I will get tokikos soon...This lowering is costing me an arm and a freakin leg
Attached Thumbnails Ponies on The Run (Again)-cimg1402.jpg  
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Old 5/2/07, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Boltzman View Post
Well,it seems I need camber bolts. Here is the spec sheet. The caps were taken care of fine.(No damage). heres the real kicker..I also need a panhard bar . I do not have the equipment to do this job myself ,have any friends that do,or really care to mess w/ loaded springs.. The labor was 2 hrs(150.00). I know(could me more mods) but oh well..I need Leo's awesome research skills to search for lowest price on panhard bar and camber bolts(if he doesn't already know)..The ride seemed a little more harsh(don't know if thats because of the pigeon toed wheels) I will get tokikos soon...This lowering is costing me an arm and a freakin leg
I'd like to check that camber with my digital angle finder. Mine were practically perfect without the camber bolts.

You do have the equipment to tie two nuts to strings and tape the string on the fenderwell above the rear wheels. Let the end with the nut dangle over by the center cap. Measure from the string to the edge of the rim lip on both sides. You only have to move the axle HALF of the difference to correct it. Tell me what your difference is before spending the money on a panhard bar.

You could have driven 1.5 hours north-east and we could have done it.
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Old 5/2/07, 05:00 PM
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Tom beat me to it (slow typer ). I was just about to page him.

Ditto what he said about the panhard bar.
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Old 5/2/07, 05:02 PM
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How far off is your rear that you need/want an adj pandhard??? I know mine is off ever so slightly but I don't think it's enough to justify the price of a new panhard. I think your alignment guys a liar. Reason being I've never heard of anyone with ultralites ever needing the camber bolts.

With that said here's some links to adj panhards.
$134
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005MustangSUSPENSION.htm
$130
http://www.cheperformance.com/cartge...pid=157&cid=15
$129
http://www.ninosport.com/BMR-Tubular...2&category=151

I think Bill's got some camber bolts he's been trying to get rid of. Send him a PM to see how much he'll sell them to you for.
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Old 5/2/07, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by LEO_06GT View Post
I think Bill's got some camber bolts he's been trying to get rid of. Send him a PM to see how much he'll sell them to you for.
I do have a brand new set of Eibach camber bolts. I can for sure work something out with Chuck, that's not a problem.

Question is, if he really needs them despite what his printout says.
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Old 5/2/07, 05:08 PM
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Chuck has an alignment issue and he's viewing Exterior Mods?
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Old 5/2/07, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by TacoBill View Post
Chuck has an alignment issue and he's viewing Exterior Mods?


Resorting to Tom's stocking tactics I see.
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Old 5/2/07, 05:19 PM
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ATTN:Brian

Brian me and the CDC ducktail have come to tempt you once again. This guy's selling his unpainted CDC ducktail shipped for $250 OBO. You might want to enter negotiations and see what comes of it.

http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...568#post907568
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Old 5/2/07, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by TacoBill View Post
Camber bolts will be required if he wants to shoot for 0 degees. Otherwise, remind him that Ford's tolerance goes up to -1.5 degrees.
Who would want it at 0°? There is no way that you should NOT be able to get it between -.75° and -1.5° with the stock bolts. As a daily driver, though, you would want it closer to the ideal factory setting of -.75°. (Mine are -.8° without the camber bolts).

Originally Posted by TacoBill View Post
I do have a brand new set of Eibach camber bolts. I can for sure work something out with Chuck, that's not a problem.

Question is, if he really needs them despite what his printout says.
I still don't like the thought of 12mm bolts on the spindle when the stock ones are 14mm. Heck, I changed mine to 9/16" bolts (14.23mm). You can only torque a 12mm 10.9 bolt 85 lb-ft versus 135 lb-ft for a 14mm 10.9 bolt.
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Old 5/2/07, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by LEO_06GT View Post


Resorting to Tom's stocking tactics I see.
I was confused at first, Leo... What is Bill stocking up on?

I think you meant stalking.
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Old 5/2/07, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by TacoBill View Post
Chuck has an alignment issue and he's viewing Exterior Mods?
It took forever for you guys to respond...what the hell are you doing? eating dinner or something I can see the rear w/ the naked eye and it is off pretty bad. The camber issue ..well I don't know how to measure that my self.The guy is not going to charge me to install camber adjusters,so I don't think he's lying.
Thanks Leo for the research ..much appreciated..
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Old 5/2/07, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 89Trooper View Post
I was confused at first, Leo... What is Bill stocking up on?

I think you meant stalking.
I'm an idiot.

Originally Posted by Boltzman View Post
It took forever for you guys to respond...what the hell are you doing? eating dinner or something I can see the rear w/ the naked eye and it is off pretty bad. The camber issue ..well I don't know how to measure that my self.The guy is not going to charge me to install camber adjusters,so I don't think he's lying.
Thanks Leo for the research ..much appreciated..
NP that's what I'm here for I guess....
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Old 5/2/07, 05:58 PM
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Bill,does it matter what adjusters are used? If not,how much you want for em? Pm me
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Old 5/2/07, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Boltzman View Post
Bill,does it matter what adjusters are used? If not,how much you want for em? Pm me
The ones he has are the ones you want... but don't hit too many bumps with those wimpy 12mm bolts, or take corners too hard, or do anything to put any undue stress on them.
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Old 5/2/07, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 89Trooper View Post
Who would want it at 0°? There is no way that you should NOT be able to get it between -.75° and -1.5° with the stock bolts. As a daily driver, though, you would want it closer to the ideal factory setting of -.75°. (Mine are -.8° without the camber bolts).


I still don't like the thought of 12mm bolts on the spindle when the stock ones are 14mm. Heck, I changed mine to 9/16" bolts (14.23mm). You can only torque a 12mm 10.9 bolt 85 lb-ft versus 135 lb-ft for a 14mm 10.9 bolt.
Well, I didn't mean 0° per say, just a neutral setting.

I can't see how it's off that much versus the other side.



Originally Posted by Boltzman View Post
Bill,does it matter what adjusters are used? If not,how much you want for em? Pm me
PM sent.
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