Ponies on The Run (Again)
11/27/06, 08:26 AM
#4841
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*Tom, cover your ears* 
Center your tips in less than 10 minutes!
Loosen up the mid-pipe clamp and have a buddy center the tip within the bumper cut-out (can adjust in/out, and around in all directions). When centered, tighten back up the mid-pipe clamp.
Repeat for other side.
Tip: Use the finger gap method to center the tip (as in sliding your finger between the exhaust tip and the sides of the bumber cut-out).
Center your tips in less than 10 minutes!
Loosen up the mid-pipe clamp and have a buddy center the tip within the bumper cut-out (can adjust in/out, and around in all directions). When centered, tighten back up the mid-pipe clamp.
Repeat for other side.
Tip: Use the finger gap method to center the tip (as in sliding your finger between the exhaust tip and the sides of the bumber cut-out).
You can do it yourself. Whichever tip you are adjusting, just leave the mid-pipe clamp loose enough so you can adjust it, but tight enough so it stays where you put it. Then go behind the car and move the tip to where you want it - then go back under the car and tighten it down.
11/27/06, 11:48 AM
#4842
Team Mustang Source
On a small side note, I love the sound. Parking in the underground parking structure today already seeing if I can set off a couple alarms...
11/27/06, 12:36 PM
#4843
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One set of wheels and tires sold one more to go. This has worked out perfectly as I've now offset the cost of my new wheels by almost half. If I can get this last set to sell I'll have paid about 50-60 for my new wheels and tires. Best part of all is I'll be able to start thinking about what mod is next. Although it would probably be best to wait untill after Christmas since I'm sure the wife will be taking a few things off my list.
11/27/06, 04:37 PM
#4844
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Story time....
On my way back from getting my car registered today when a silver stang pulls up along side me gives me a thumbs up and screams "Leo06GT". I felt like a celebrity. Well once I got home I checked allfordmustangs.com and it turns out it's a fellow SDMC/Forum member.
This is what he posted-
"Ahhh...the unmistakable roar of Leo's GT rumbling by on the 94 East.
Thanks Leo...I think I ca-rapped meself.
(Read: That 'stang sounds SA-WEEET!!!!)
Ha ha!
Nice ride man...nice to finally see it up close.
Peace out!"
Just a feel good story I thought I'd share.
This is what he posted-
"Ahhh...the unmistakable roar of Leo's GT rumbling by on the 94 East.
Thanks Leo...I think I ca-rapped meself.
(Read: That 'stang sounds SA-WEEET!!!!)Ha ha!
Nice ride man...nice to finally see it up close.Peace out!"
Just a feel good story I thought I'd share.
11/27/06, 05:20 PM
#4845
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A belated happy birthday to you Bill, and a belated congrats to you and Leo for you wins!
I just got back from the Texas and turkey day with the inlaws. 1600 miles o drivin... nearly 400 of which was in the Houston area and had the after burners kicked in coming home (I'm thinken a radar detector may be useful afterall
) and managed 22.4 mpg with the stang. Speaking of which, Dubh is about to be a virgin no longer... Mod #1 has been ordered and with any luck I will have it on this weekend. I ordered the GTAs today, $251.99 shipped, not too shabby for a price! I know, I'm a wimp compared to Bill and his exhaust, but it's my daily driver!
Now I just need to resolve what I'm gonna do about a tuner and get the money up for that...
That and a Steeda shifter are on my list next.... maybe an X-pipe depending on what the GTAs sound like.
I just got back from the Texas and turkey day with the inlaws. 1600 miles o drivin... nearly 400 of which was in the Houston area and had the after burners kicked in coming home (I'm thinken a radar detector may be useful afterall
) and managed 22.4 mpg with the stang. Speaking of which, Dubh is about to be a virgin no longer... Mod #1 has been ordered and with any luck I will have it on this weekend. I ordered the GTAs today, $251.99 shipped, not too shabby for a price! I know, I'm a wimp compared to Bill and his exhaust, but it's my daily driver!Now I just need to resolve what I'm gonna do about a tuner and get the money up for that...
That and a Steeda shifter are on my list next.... maybe an X-pipe depending on what the GTAs sound like.
11/27/06, 10:23 PM
#4848
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Due to the fact that I don't plan on ever doing any autocrossing or any "canyon-carving", I may be the guinea pig for this mod:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/05Mustang/RS-1.jpg
I have a theory. I think that doing this mod will soften the ride up a little bit, or even a lot. If you think about it, every time the tire goes over a bump, it pushes up on the lower half of the strut assembly. Not only does it compress the spring and strut, but it tries to rotate the sway-bar. The sway bar reacts on the the other strut assembly and also puts force on the frame itself. All of this adds to the harshness felt by the driver. Now think if the sway bar was removed: just the strut and spring would be compressed and I think this would be a lot less harsh and will bring back some ride comfort.
To test this out, I'm going to remove everything shown in the link above except for the crossmember in the morning. If I see an improvement in ride quality and the car doesn't lean excessively then I might as well buy the radiator support for the weight reduction. Other people on TMS have this and use their cars as daily drivers and find there is not much body sway unless you are really carving corners (which I normally don't).
Another plus: Unless everything is dead on perfect, there will always be a pre-load on the sway-bar caused by the sway-bar links. This leans the body when the car is standing still and also affects turning. No sway-bar and no sway-bar links = no pre-load.
More info can be found here:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005MustangCHASSIS.htm
If you plan to drag again, Leo, here's almost 30 more lbs off the nose! From BMR: The factory radiator crossmember is built overly strong because it must also support the additional loads of the front sway bar. With the swaybar removed, the crossmember only needs to support the weight of the radiator. Our lightweight crossmember only weighs 5.5 lbs. as compared the OE 16.5 lbs. Combined with sway bar removal, expect a 26.5 Lb. weight reduction!
$149.00 with free shipping.
Found this from a daily driver on another forum:
"My sway bar has been off for 4k miles now, I still go through corners pretty hard. I push my car to its limits in the curves before and I haven't had to alter my driving for not having the sway bar. Yes it does have a little more body roll, I can live with it even going through a 35mph posted curve at 55."
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/05Mustang/RS-1.jpg
I have a theory. I think that doing this mod will soften the ride up a little bit, or even a lot. If you think about it, every time the tire goes over a bump, it pushes up on the lower half of the strut assembly. Not only does it compress the spring and strut, but it tries to rotate the sway-bar. The sway bar reacts on the the other strut assembly and also puts force on the frame itself. All of this adds to the harshness felt by the driver. Now think if the sway bar was removed: just the strut and spring would be compressed and I think this would be a lot less harsh and will bring back some ride comfort.
To test this out, I'm going to remove everything shown in the link above except for the crossmember in the morning. If I see an improvement in ride quality and the car doesn't lean excessively then I might as well buy the radiator support for the weight reduction. Other people on TMS have this and use their cars as daily drivers and find there is not much body sway unless you are really carving corners (which I normally don't).
Another plus: Unless everything is dead on perfect, there will always be a pre-load on the sway-bar caused by the sway-bar links. This leans the body when the car is standing still and also affects turning. No sway-bar and no sway-bar links = no pre-load.
More info can be found here:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005MustangCHASSIS.htm
If you plan to drag again, Leo, here's almost 30 more lbs off the nose! From BMR: The factory radiator crossmember is built overly strong because it must also support the additional loads of the front sway bar. With the swaybar removed, the crossmember only needs to support the weight of the radiator. Our lightweight crossmember only weighs 5.5 lbs. as compared the OE 16.5 lbs. Combined with sway bar removal, expect a 26.5 Lb. weight reduction!
$149.00 with free shipping.
Found this from a daily driver on another forum:
"My sway bar has been off for 4k miles now, I still go through corners pretty hard. I push my car to its limits in the curves before and I haven't had to alter my driving for not having the sway bar. Yes it does have a little more body roll, I can live with it even going through a 35mph posted curve at 55."
11/27/06, 11:17 PM
#4849
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Whats up guys have a question??
I have to take my car in for a oil change and to see if they can correct the notchy gear shifting problem I have.
first question- has the dealers said anything to anyone negative about the off road pipe you have instaled?? Will I run into any problems from them??
Question two- on other posts , other people have experienced notchy gear shifting.Some guy stated that jacking your car up on the drivers side so the tire is 8 inches of the ground and pumping your clutch in and out slowly for 5 minutes will correct the problem. The cause of this problem is stated that there is a air pocket in the hydrolic clutch line which is NOT allowing the throw out bearing to fully engage, causing NOTCHY SHIFTING. Does this make sense?? Anyone else with this problem??
Thanks
Congrats on the new wheels Leo
first question- has the dealers said anything to anyone negative about the off road pipe you have instaled?? Will I run into any problems from them??
Question two- on other posts , other people have experienced notchy gear shifting.Some guy stated that jacking your car up on the drivers side so the tire is 8 inches of the ground and pumping your clutch in and out slowly for 5 minutes will correct the problem. The cause of this problem is stated that there is a air pocket in the hydrolic clutch line which is NOT allowing the throw out bearing to fully engage, causing NOTCHY SHIFTING. Does this make sense?? Anyone else with this problem??
Thanks
Congrats on the new wheels Leo
11/28/06, 12:34 AM
#4850
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Due to the fact that I don't plan on ever doing any autocrossing or any "canyon-carving", I may be the guinea pig for this mod:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/05Mustang/RS-1.jpg
I have a theory. I think that doing this mod will soften the ride up a little bit, or even a lot. If you think about it, every time the tire goes over a bump, it pushes up on the lower half of the strut assembly. Not only does it compress the spring and strut, but it tries to rotate the sway-bar. The sway bar reacts on the the other strut assembly and also puts force on the frame itself. All of this adds to the harshness felt by the driver. Now think if the sway bar was removed: just the strut and spring would be compressed and I think this would be a lot less harsh and will bring back some ride comfort.
To test this out, I'm going to remove everything shown in the link above except for the crossmember in the morning. If I see an improvement in ride quality and the car doesn't lean excessively then I might as well buy the radiator support for the weight reduction. Other people on TMS have this and use their cars as daily drivers and find there is not much body sway unless you are really carving corners (which I normally don't).
Another plus: Unless everything is dead on perfect, there will always be a pre-load on the sway-bar caused by the sway-bar links. This leans the body when the car is standing still and also affects turning. No sway-bar and no sway-bar links = no pre-load.
More info can be found here:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005MustangCHASSIS.htm
If you plan to drag again, Leo, here's almost 30 more lbs off the nose! From BMR: The factory radiator crossmember is built overly strong because it must also support the additional loads of the front sway bar. With the swaybar removed, the crossmember only needs to support the weight of the radiator. Our lightweight crossmember only weighs 5.5 lbs. as compared the OE 16.5 lbs. Combined with sway bar removal, expect a 26.5 Lb. weight reduction!
$149.00 with free shipping.
Found this from a daily driver on another forum:
"My sway bar has been off for 4k miles now, I still go through corners pretty hard. I push my car to its limits in the curves before and I haven't had to alter my driving for not having the sway bar. Yes it does have a little more body roll, I can live with it even going through a 35mph posted curve at 55."
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/05Mustang/RS-1.jpg
I have a theory. I think that doing this mod will soften the ride up a little bit, or even a lot. If you think about it, every time the tire goes over a bump, it pushes up on the lower half of the strut assembly. Not only does it compress the spring and strut, but it tries to rotate the sway-bar. The sway bar reacts on the the other strut assembly and also puts force on the frame itself. All of this adds to the harshness felt by the driver. Now think if the sway bar was removed: just the strut and spring would be compressed and I think this would be a lot less harsh and will bring back some ride comfort.
To test this out, I'm going to remove everything shown in the link above except for the crossmember in the morning. If I see an improvement in ride quality and the car doesn't lean excessively then I might as well buy the radiator support for the weight reduction. Other people on TMS have this and use their cars as daily drivers and find there is not much body sway unless you are really carving corners (which I normally don't).
Another plus: Unless everything is dead on perfect, there will always be a pre-load on the sway-bar caused by the sway-bar links. This leans the body when the car is standing still and also affects turning. No sway-bar and no sway-bar links = no pre-load.
More info can be found here:
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/2005MustangCHASSIS.htm
If you plan to drag again, Leo, here's almost 30 more lbs off the nose! From BMR: The factory radiator crossmember is built overly strong because it must also support the additional loads of the front sway bar. With the swaybar removed, the crossmember only needs to support the weight of the radiator. Our lightweight crossmember only weighs 5.5 lbs. as compared the OE 16.5 lbs. Combined with sway bar removal, expect a 26.5 Lb. weight reduction!
$149.00 with free shipping.
Found this from a daily driver on another forum:
"My sway bar has been off for 4k miles now, I still go through corners pretty hard. I push my car to its limits in the curves before and I haven't had to alter my driving for not having the sway bar. Yes it does have a little more body roll, I can live with it even going through a 35mph posted curve at 55."
I have to take my car in for a oil change and to see if they can correct the notchy gear shifting problem I have.
first question- has the dealers said anything to anyone negative about the off road pipe you have instaled?? Will I run into any problems from them??
Question two- on other posts , other people have experienced notchy gear shifting.Some guy stated that jacking your car up on the drivers side so the tire is 8 inches of the ground and pumping your clutch in and out slowly for 5 minutes will correct the problem. The cause of this problem is stated that there is a air pocket in the hydrolic clutch line which is NOT allowing the throw out bearing to fully engage, causing NOTCHY SHIFTING. Does this make sense?? Anyone else with this problem??
Thanks
Congrats on the new wheels Leo
first question- has the dealers said anything to anyone negative about the off road pipe you have instaled?? Will I run into any problems from them??
Question two- on other posts , other people have experienced notchy gear shifting.Some guy stated that jacking your car up on the drivers side so the tire is 8 inches of the ground and pumping your clutch in and out slowly for 5 minutes will correct the problem. The cause of this problem is stated that there is a air pocket in the hydrolic clutch line which is NOT allowing the throw out bearing to fully engage, causing NOTCHY SHIFTING. Does this make sense?? Anyone else with this problem??
Thanks
Congrats on the new wheels Leo
11/28/06, 08:34 AM
#4851
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Attachment 14639
I didn't even have to jack up the nose to take it off, either. I turned the wheels all the way in one direction and I could reach the sway-bar connection on one side and the link connection on the other side. Then I just turned the wheels all the way the other direction to finish. After that, I pulled it all out from the front. I'll let you all know how the car handles on the way to work today and if my theory is correct.
Tony - I never heard of that problem (or that fix), either.
11/28/06, 10:27 AM
#4852
Everyone at my party who saw your car said that it was sweet!
Let us know how you like the GTA's.
First I've heard of the stock shifter being notchy... Now, my Saleen Short Throw Shift Block feels notchy.
I'm curious how it'll handle too. Keep us informed.
11/28/06, 10:37 AM
#4853
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I did a quick drive around the neighborhood (turning through turns quicker than you should in a sub-division). I even did a U-turn sliding through half of it. I don't feel any difference in body roll.
I car pool today and I drive. I'll tell my friend to be on the lookout for something different about the car, but I won't tell him if it's sound, power, handling, etc. I'll see if he notices anything.
I'll report back when I get to work.
I sent BMR an email explaining how I want the weight reduction (I have to lose 170lbs to come down to the coupe weight), and how I want to get rid of the pre-load. I explained that I am a daily driver and don't do any road racing. I asked if other than slightly more body roll, would any damage be done to the car. I'll post the reply here, too.
I car pool today and I drive. I'll tell my friend to be on the lookout for something different about the car, but I won't tell him if it's sound, power, handling, etc. I'll see if he notices anything.
I'll report back when I get to work.
I sent BMR an email explaining how I want the weight reduction (I have to lose 170lbs to come down to the coupe weight), and how I want to get rid of the pre-load. I explained that I am a daily driver and don't do any road racing. I asked if other than slightly more body roll, would any damage be done to the car. I'll post the reply here, too.
11/28/06, 01:24 PM
#4854
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Be careful with getting slicks. Normally, the tire to the ground is the "weak point". If you make them grip better, then you'll surely find your second weakest point - whether it be your axles, gears, driveshaft, etc. You really want the tires to slip first before something else breaks.
11/28/06, 02:08 PM
#4855
Be careful with getting slicks. Normally, the tire to the ground is the "weak point". If you make them grip better, then you'll surely find your second weakest point - whether it be your axles, gears, driveshaft, etc. You really want the tires to slip first before something else breaks.
We don't want to hear Leo's last words being...
11/28/06, 02:17 PM
#4856
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Thanks for the heads up guys. Well looks like the 04 wheels and tires will be shipping off tomorrow. Don't worry Bill I've kept the guy well informed of the status and probably called him more times than necessary so you should get another postive comment on your ebay profile.
11/28/06, 02:22 PM
#4857
11/28/06, 02:23 PM
#4858
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11/28/06, 02:38 PM
#4859
Where's the pics?
No pics, but here's the model I got, TH-42PX6U.
Is that why you skipped work?
Of course! I can't find a better reason!
Did you get a deal on it or did you just say screw it?
Well, I didn't get the kind of Black Friday deal I was hoping for, but Costco had them on sale (ended yesterday) for $1299.99. So, I guess I did say 'Screw it!'
No pics, but here's the model I got, TH-42PX6U.
Is that why you skipped work?
Of course! I can't find a better reason!
Did you get a deal on it or did you just say screw it?
Well, I didn't get the kind of Black Friday deal I was hoping for, but Costco had them on sale (ended yesterday) for $1299.99. So, I guess I did say 'Screw it!'
11/28/06, 02:50 PM
#4860
Incase I don't come on later tonight, I'll be off to the LA Autoshow in the morning.
My plan is to be there for the Press breakfast at 7:30am
Bum around and take pics of Mustang stuff
Be at the Ford Conference at 11:40am (supposed to be some interesting news)
And finally, hit the Press luncheon for some grub
Then I'm outta there!
My plan is to be there for the Press breakfast at 7:30am
Bum around and take pics of Mustang stuff
Be at the Ford Conference at 11:40am (supposed to be some interesting news)
And finally, hit the Press luncheon for some grub
Then I'm outta there!