Ponies on The Run (Again)
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The red electric lines are done with insulating tape – I never could find good size and temperature resistant covers. The tape is applied in two layers I bought that tape here in Poland I do not know if you have such in US. It do not melt in high temperature. It getting soft but not melt.
The tape is Japanese DENEKA tape type VINI TAPE PVC Insulating Tape #101 0.008”x3/4” x 10yds. In total I use 30 of them.
Hope that helps
P.s Those red lines would look outstanding in black color engine bay. If I will have to remove engine any time in future I will ask to paint engine bay in gloss black
Last edited by seabiscuit; 4/2/11 at 02:11 AM.
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Originally Posted by seabiscuit
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YES!
Thanks
The first thing people ask me when they find out I was in a accident if it was the shelby!
Pimp!
The first thing people ask me when they find out I was in a accident if it was the shelby!
Pimp!
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Thanks all for nice word about the car. I think the invested money on a modification on it already easily exceeded value of a car. I even can not make now full list of what has been installed in that car. But I still have a list of next wish mods
Huh now you gave me a difficult one too explain but ok lets try.
First of all if you plan to buy aftermarket aluminum fuel rails and you want to polish them yourself phone producer directly and get from him naked ones - bare aluminum. You will save a lot of time on taking out anodized coating.
If you already have anodized ones you have to take anodized layer away. It is almost impossible to do that by hand. Take a drill with sandpaper pads, 240 will be ok and take out the anodized layer carefully. You can do it only from big surfaces. You can mount a drill in a vice so the fuel rail will be in your hand during that process. Do not use big drill to remove anodized layer from small surfaces as you will quickly lose edges. The small areas you have to do with small mini drill and sand pads – you need dremel like this. I had such with 180 mini pads
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dremel-200-1-21-...item4cf6467803
If you already have taken anodized layer or bought bare aluminum one you can go next level. You need piece of wooden slat with perfect edges and flat surfaces. Round wooden slat for round surfaces that you going to polish. You need wet sanding paper 320, 800, 1200 and 1500.
Start working with wet 320 and that is the key step. All the surfaces have to be flatten with that paper, all the big scratches during taking the anodized layer have to be removed now. If the scratch is in the middle of surface you have to take the entire surface down to remove it. If you will remove it only in that place it will not look good and the light will play there after polishing.
Sand as long as you will get sharp edges and scratches out. Surface must be smooth without any gouges. It’s a great time to think about live, universe etc. get some nice music. Of course you need water as well for wetting the sanding paper and drinking. Tell your wife you going on holidays.
When you will finish element with 320 go with 800, 1200 and then 1500 each one next goes quicker and easer then 320 which is the longest one.
If you finish get some good metal polish paste compound etc put it on microfibre cloth and polish for high gloss shine. The difficult areas you can do again with dremel and felt pads.
Try to do that by hand if you will do that by big machine you will lose your sharp edges.
I think it is all.
If you will work on bare aluminum I guess the step with 320 sanding paper will be much shorter. Depends on how the surface looks out from the aluminum cutting machine.
It is really not so difficult only time consuming process.
Huh now you gave me a difficult one too explain but ok lets try.
First of all if you plan to buy aftermarket aluminum fuel rails and you want to polish them yourself phone producer directly and get from him naked ones - bare aluminum. You will save a lot of time on taking out anodized coating.
If you already have anodized ones you have to take anodized layer away. It is almost impossible to do that by hand. Take a drill with sandpaper pads, 240 will be ok and take out the anodized layer carefully. You can do it only from big surfaces. You can mount a drill in a vice so the fuel rail will be in your hand during that process. Do not use big drill to remove anodized layer from small surfaces as you will quickly lose edges. The small areas you have to do with small mini drill and sand pads – you need dremel like this. I had such with 180 mini pads
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dremel-200-1-21-...item4cf6467803
If you already have taken anodized layer or bought bare aluminum one you can go next level. You need piece of wooden slat with perfect edges and flat surfaces. Round wooden slat for round surfaces that you going to polish. You need wet sanding paper 320, 800, 1200 and 1500.
Start working with wet 320 and that is the key step. All the surfaces have to be flatten with that paper, all the big scratches during taking the anodized layer have to be removed now. If the scratch is in the middle of surface you have to take the entire surface down to remove it. If you will remove it only in that place it will not look good and the light will play there after polishing.
Sand as long as you will get sharp edges and scratches out. Surface must be smooth without any gouges. It’s a great time to think about live, universe etc. get some nice music. Of course you need water as well for wetting the sanding paper and drinking. Tell your wife you going on holidays.
When you will finish element with 320 go with 800, 1200 and then 1500 each one next goes quicker and easer then 320 which is the longest one.
If you finish get some good metal polish paste compound etc put it on microfibre cloth and polish for high gloss shine. The difficult areas you can do again with dremel and felt pads.
Try to do that by hand if you will do that by big machine you will lose your sharp edges.
I think it is all.
If you will work on bare aluminum I guess the step with 320 sanding paper will be much shorter. Depends on how the surface looks out from the aluminum cutting machine.
It is really not so difficult only time consuming process.
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You can always give them someone to polish , as far as I remember there are a lot of such services in US, here not or not good ones.
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Unfortunately you will not get them from Fore Precision. My original plan was to get nickel plated from them but they stopped offering them while ago. They told me they used to give them to polish too but the company which do that destroyed some of them so they stopped it as well and now they offering only satin and black anodized ones.
You can always give them someone to polish , as far as I remember there are a lot of such services in US, here not or not good ones.
You can always give them someone to polish , as far as I remember there are a lot of such services in US, here not or not good ones.
For me... polished is the way to go.
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