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Ponies on The Run (Again)

Old 10/23/08, 04:50 PM
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Regarding that whole more power thing........ Just remember even if you stay at a "comfortable" range with the engine, you'll still need more upgrades. Manual cars will need a clutch, input shaft, etc....... Auto cars will likely at some point need a rebuilt or replaced auto tranny due to third gear failure..... Both cars will need a rear end upgrade at some point (I think that may be where I'm out now)...... Not trying to be a downer, just thinking out loud I guess.
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Old 10/23/08, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by habu View Post
Point of the thread as I took is was that it's possible to push a 500rwhp car with the set up I have without windowing the block. To me that means that while conservative, per Dustin's remarks, there is room to play. So if I can still be safe and get a small bump then why not.
There's more opinions that support the contrary..

Originally Posted by Modular Depot View Post
I think pushing the stock engine to these levels is asking for trouble. I would do it to mine, but if mine breaks, I'll fix it. Most people don't want to take that chance. I recommend that my customers stay in the 450 rwhp range for longevity. I understand the whipple has a great intercooler, but I think close to 500 rwhp is just pushing the stock components too far. I applaud Whipple for having the guts to release a kit like this and I hope I'm wrong about the longevity.


Ken

Just be careful Brian. I don't want to see any of the POTR guys loose a block.




Originally Posted by tom281 View Post
Regarding that whole more power thing........ Just remember even if you stay at a "comfortable" range with the engine, you'll still need more upgrades. Manual cars will need a clutch, input shaft, etc.......
Input shaft? We don't need no stinkin' input shaft!
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Old 10/23/08, 05:33 PM
  #25123  
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Originally Posted by TacoBill View Post


Input shaft? We don't need no stinkin' input shaft!


I guess I should clarify my above statements- you will likely only need the additional supporting mods at some point down the road, IF.... 1) you drag race on sticky DRs occasionally and 2) if you run an intercooler and make real power like big boys do.



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Old 10/23/08, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by tom281 View Post
I guess I should clarify my above statements- you will likely only need the additional supporting mods at some point down the road, IF.... 1) you drag race on sticky DRs occasionally and 2) if you run an intercooler and make real power like big boys do.



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Old 10/23/08, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tom281 View Post
I guess I should clarify my above statements- you will likely only need the additional supporting mods at some point down the road, IF.... 1) you drag race on sticky DRs occasionally and 2) if you run an intercooler and make real power like big boys do.



lol
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Old 10/23/08, 05:44 PM
  #25126  
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JonCo, I still can't get over the torque that your blower is making for you...... those numbers are really impressive for a centri dude.
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Old 10/23/08, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by tom281
I guess I should clarify my above statements- you will likely only need the additional supporting mods at some point down the road, IF.... 1) you drag race on sticky DRs occasionally and 2) if you run an intercooler and make real power like big boys do.



I know I'm inviting more trouble than I need, but that's why I posted it for your opinions rather than shooting before I aimed.

Next year clutch, TOB and input shaft will be on the to-do list. Hopefully the same time I do a bottom end ???
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Old 10/23/08, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by habu View Post



I know I'm inviting more trouble than I need, but that's why I posted it for your opinions rather than shooting before I aimed.

Next year clutch, TOB and input shaft will be on the to-do list. Hopefully the same time I do a bottom end ???
If that's the case then I say do all that first before you go bumping up your hp.
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Old 10/23/08, 06:49 PM
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If things go well with my job after the first of the year, I'm seriously considering pulling the motor in putting in forged rods and pistons. Reusing the factory block, crank heads, etc. I'm thinking I could get a nice set of rods & pistons and get it all done for around $2500. That's just a guestimate at this point but still.......... then add some long tubes, a GT500 t-body, and a 3.0 pully. Really, all I want is 500-550 rwhp, with no worries. That's enough to get into the 10's, still be streetable, and be trouble free and just as importantly, worry free.
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Old 10/23/08, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by tom281 View Post
JonCo, I still can't get over the torque that your blower is making for you...... those numbers are really impressive for a centri dude.
Thanks, all this is being done on a Mustang Dyno. I'd love to see what number she pulls on a DynoJet. This tune feels so strong. I'm just glad a found a great shop relatively close to me to work with.
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Old 10/23/08, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tom281 View Post
If things go well with my job after the first of the year, I'm seriously considering pulling the motor in putting in forged rods and pistons. Reusing the factory block, crank heads, etc. I'm thinking I could get a nice set of rods & pistons and get it all done for around $2500. That's just a guestimate at this point but still.......... then add some long tubes, a GT500 t-body, and a 3.0 pully. Really, all I want is 500-550 rwhp, with no worries. That's enough to get into the 10's, still be streetable, and be trouble free and just as importantly, worry free.
. Sounds like a monster if you get all that done.

What do you think about that new Techno CAI for the Saleen?
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Old 10/23/08, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by JonCo View Post
. Sounds like a monster if you get all that done.

What do you think about that new Techno CAI for the Saleen?

Techno? I don't want no stinking Techno..... that's Bill's thing, not mine.



OK seriously though I haven't seen it yet. Plus I don't think it would be much better than the Saleen ultimate kit that I'm running now. I need more proof than what's being said.

EDIT: just watched the video on modfords. Looks good, however even though they have a larger MAF housing, it looks like they're still using the stock MAF meter, whereas the Saleen has a new, larger Saleen-spec meter, which is what is needed for more than 450 rwhp. That's the main reason why I changed.... at 450 my stock sensor was at 4.9v and 5.0 is max. I believe that's a main cause of why I didn't see a bigger gain on the dyno with the twin screw cams.

Last edited by tom281; 10/23/08 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 10/23/08, 08:22 PM
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mods never end tom! you'll find something else to do later...all you want is 500, yeah...right!
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Old 10/23/08, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by tom281 View Post
If things go well with my job after the first of the year, I'm seriously considering pulling the motor in putting in forged rods and pistons. Reusing the factory block, crank heads, etc. I'm thinking I could get a nice set of rods & pistons and get it all done for around $2500. That's just a guestimate at this point but still.......... then add some long tubes, a GT500 t-body, and a 3.0 pully. Really, all I want is 500-550 rwhp, with no worries. That's enough to get into the 10's, still be streetable, and be trouble free and just as importantly, worry free.

That is exactly the same path I am planning. I've already gotten my first ball park quote for a 'budget build'. Perhaps the difference being the Long-Tubes, to be seen, and a single blade Throttle body.... Dunno 'bout the pulley.
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Old 10/23/08, 10:45 PM
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If you're going thru the bother of pulling your motor out for a bottom end build, go all the way and drop in a Cobra crank and ARP mainstuds (and headstuds), along with new rods and pistons. Why do it half ***?
I mean you guys have any idea what it costs to R&R a motor, then have your shortblock built into a longblock? I do, so don't cut yourself short, especially when prepping the motor to handle 'monster HP'.
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Old 10/23/08, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by TacoBill View Post
If you're going thru the bother of pulling your motor out for a bottom end build, go all the way and drop in a Cobra crank and ARP mainstuds (and headstuds), along with new rods and pistons. Why do it half ***?
I mean you guys have any idea what it costs to R&R a motor, then have your shortblock built into a longblock? I do, so don't cut yourself short, especially when prepping the motor to handle 'monster HP'.
half-assed ? come on that's a little harsh. 550 isn't Monster HP either. You sell the stock block and crank short. An ARP stud/bolt kit aren't a bad idea, but then again not required either.

Yeah I have an idea what it is to build a motor I've built several myself. Excluding machine work, from a bare block to running car. It wasn't a 3v by any stretch and they weren't stock by a long-shot either but I've done it. It isn't as hard as you would imagine. The only thing that stops me, on this car at the moment, is the cam configuration on the mod motors and that you'd dam-well have to have a tune ready to go, which I would not have in hand.

Last edited by habu; 10/23/08 at 11:13 PM.
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Old 10/23/08, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by habu View Post
You sell the stock block and crank short. An ARP stud/bolt kit aren't a bad idea, but then again not required either.
I never mentioned swapping blocks out, nor question your ability to build engines. Heck, like George, I have an A&P Mechanics license, but that's not relative to what I'm suggesting.

Point is, if your willing to lay down $2500-$3000 in labor, why not upgrade the last piece of the stock component and install HD fasteners? This way you're covered for future HP mods including raising your boost.

But hey, what do I know..
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Old 10/24/08, 12:03 AM
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Not saying you don't know anything don't know why that would come in.

Just like you didn't question my ability, you asked if I knew the costs and yeah I do, I've gotten quotes for my motor and I know how much I can save first hand. so I am leaning towards the budget build. Maybe I'm wrong maybe I'm not we'll see
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Old 10/24/08, 01:13 AM
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Shots fired!

So many ways to go when you start thinking of upgrading the internals. I found myself in this spiral dive when talking to Costal High Performance, Livernoise, PowerHeads and LNR. Bottom line for me if I ever decide to go this route would be to go with a fully assembled long block. If I decided to go with cams then I would have them installed by the engine builder. This is probably the most expensive way to go but this way I can hold one vendor accountable for the motor. True the local installer will have to assemble all of the accsesory gear and be responsible for tune, etc. My decision is based partly on all of the crap I've seen around me. I'd like to trust a local shop but there are too many hands in the pot. Hence the decision for a fully assembled LB. No machine shop down time. As for the old parts 3V Mod Motor w/ low miles will sell fairly quickly on the open market. So does any have an extra 10K?

Jed
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Old 10/24/08, 05:21 AM
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I`m Back.....

Well kinda. Lurking now and then mostly.

Y'all MegaPosters of ill repute still goin strong I see...especially Bill.

Just stopped by to say I JUST made 10000 miles.

Heh. only took 2 and a half years.

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