Ponies on The Run (Again)
9/15/08, 02:30 PM
Legacy TMS Member
Ha, I was so affended I was just trying to figure out a way to paint mine GO 
For you guys with aftermarket exhaust I have a question. I've had a Pypes O/R h pipe with factory mufflers for a while now ( both before and after the S/C ) and I just installed Pypes Violators last week and now it feels like I lost some torque/power. Is it just my imagination or is it possible that the loss in back pressure is magnified with the S/C and I am actually losing performance?
For you guys with aftermarket exhaust I have a question. I've had a Pypes O/R h pipe with factory mufflers for a while now ( both before and after the S/C ) and I just installed Pypes Violators last week and now it feels like I lost some torque/power. Is it just my imagination or is it possible that the loss in back pressure is magnified with the S/C and I am actually losing performance?
9/15/08, 02:32 PM
Legacy TMS Member
A loss in back pressure on a supercharged application is not a bad thing. Plus, just changing your mufflers isn't going to cause any loss anyway. That's my experience anyway. 
9/15/08, 02:48 PM
Legacy TMS Member
Must just be my imagination then, that makes me happy cause I really didnt want to change them again.
9/15/08, 02:50 PM
Team Mustang Source
Sorry Robbie I can't answer your question. If anything my exhaust sounds less aggressive after the blower install, why I dunno 
Leo, $$130. Considering I got a couple different quotes all over 200 and up to 250.... it's a bargain.
Leo, $$130. Considering I got a couple different quotes all over 200 and up to 250.... it's a bargain.
9/15/08, 03:43 PM
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Robbie-Did you get your Langka kit yet?
Last edited by LEO_06GT; 9/15/08 at 03:45 PM.
9/15/08, 03:51 PM
Legacy TMS Member
Yeah, it came on friday but the touch up paint just showed up this afternoon so I am playing with it now. The scratch was so deep I am on my 4th coat of paint now to try and even up the scratch with the surface. As the paint dries it kind of shrinks into the scratch so you have to keep building it up.
9/15/08, 03:58 PM
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Yeah, it came on friday but the touch up paint just showed up this afternoon so I am playing with it now. The scratch was so deep I am on my 4th coat of paint now to try and even up the scratch with the surface. As the paint dries it kind of shrinks into the scratch so you have to keep building it up.
9/15/08, 04:12 PM
Team Mustang Source
Price Increate Still it's 100 bucks cheaper than the nearest shop and it's less I have to worry about so I'm good.
definitely. I need to do a touch up too and would like to see how they turn out.
Still it's 100 bucks cheaper than the nearest shop and it's less I have to worry about so I'm good.definitely. I need to do a touch up too and would like to see how they turn out.
9/15/08, 04:22 PM
NTTAWWT
ive heard that the langka is pretty good, so im interested to see the outcome
this is going to be a completely noob question, but how do you bleed the brakes?
this is going to be a completely noob question, but how do you bleed the brakes?
9/15/08, 04:25 PM
Legacy TMS Member
I actually thought I was getting the bottle & brush like you would get at the dealer but I ordered pen and didn't realize it. As it turns out the pen seams to work pretty good so I'm glad I'm an idiot and ordered the wrong one. It has a wide tip like a highlighter not like a ball point pen. I got it from expresspaint.com. I got spray paint from them before and was very happy with the match and the pen seems to be just as good a match. I'll post pics as soon s I'm done.
9/15/08, 04:26 PM
Legacy TMS Member
9/15/08, 04:31 PM
9/15/08, 04:59 PM
Team Mustang Source
Looks like there is a bunch of smart-azzes on board today...
it's pretty simple and unless you use the earl's power bleeder or whatever it's called you need two people.
Person one is in the driver's seat(engine off) and pumps the brakes three times and HOLDS the brake pedal
1-2-3-HOLD
Starting at the farthest corner from the master cylinder, so passenger rear,
1) 1-2-3-HOLD the brake pedal
2) Crack open the bleeder valve and let the brake fluid come out(The pedal inside the car will drop to the floor, the person inside continues to HOLD the pedal).
3) Tighten the bleeder valve.
3a) Check brake fluid DO NOT let it empty, replace cap.
4) Once the bleeder valve is tightened the pedal can be released.
5) Repeat steps 1-4 until the fluid is consistently coming out with no air, you'll know it when you see it.
6) Move to the next wheel, Drivers side rear and repeat steps 1-5
7) Move to the passenger side front wheel repeat steps 1-5
8) Move to the driver side front wheel
It is critical that the person on the brakes DOES NOT LET UP ON THE BRAKE PEDAL until the bleeder valve is tightened. If it happens you introduce air into the system, which is what you're trying to get rid of and will double the work.
PITA but it's pretty simple.
it's pretty simple and unless you use the earl's power bleeder or whatever it's called you need two people.
Person one is in the driver's seat(engine off) and pumps the brakes three times and HOLDS the brake pedal
1-2-3-HOLD
Starting at the farthest corner from the master cylinder, so passenger rear,
1) 1-2-3-HOLD the brake pedal
2) Crack open the bleeder valve and let the brake fluid come out(The pedal inside the car will drop to the floor, the person inside continues to HOLD the pedal).
3) Tighten the bleeder valve.
3a) Check brake fluid DO NOT let it empty, replace cap.
4) Once the bleeder valve is tightened the pedal can be released.
5) Repeat steps 1-4 until the fluid is consistently coming out with no air, you'll know it when you see it.
6) Move to the next wheel, Drivers side rear and repeat steps 1-5
7) Move to the passenger side front wheel repeat steps 1-5
8) Move to the driver side front wheel
It is critical that the person on the brakes DOES NOT LET UP ON THE BRAKE PEDAL until the bleeder valve is tightened. If it happens you introduce air into the system, which is what you're trying to get rid of and will double the work.
PITA but it's pretty simple.
9/15/08, 05:25 PM
9/15/08, 05:34 PM
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9/15/08, 05:42 PM
Legacy TMS Member
OK Leo and anyone else interested in the Langka scratch remover. I posted the results up on the original scratch thread. Take a look and see what you thing of my first try. I 'm pretty happy with the results considering how bad the scratch was.
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...54#post5634654
http://forums.bradbarnett.net/showth...54#post5634654
9/15/08, 07:04 PM
Legacy TMS Member
Looks like there is a bunch of smart-azzes on board today...
it's pretty simple and unless you use the earl's power bleeder or whatever it's called you need two people.
Person one is in the driver's seat(engine off) and pumps the brakes three times and HOLDS the brake pedal
1-2-3-HOLD
Starting at the farthest corner from the master cylinder, so passenger rear,
1) 1-2-3-HOLD the brake pedal
2) Crack open the bleeder valve and let the brake fluid come out(The pedal inside the car will drop to the floor, the person inside continues to HOLD the pedal).
3) Tighten the bleeder valve.
3a) Check brake fluid DO NOT let it empty, replace cap.
4) Once the bleeder valve is tightened the pedal can be released.
5) Repeat steps 1-4 until the fluid is consistently coming out with no air, you'll know it when you see it.
6) Move to the next wheel, Drivers side rear and repeat steps 1-5
7) Move to the passenger side front wheel repeat steps 1-5
8) Move to the driver side front wheel
It is critical that the person on the brakes DOES NOT LET UP ON THE BRAKE PEDAL until the bleeder valve is tightened. If it happens you introduce air into the system, which is what you're trying to get rid of and will double the work.
PITA but it's pretty simple.
it's pretty simple and unless you use the earl's power bleeder or whatever it's called you need two people.
Person one is in the driver's seat(engine off) and pumps the brakes three times and HOLDS the brake pedal
1-2-3-HOLD
Starting at the farthest corner from the master cylinder, so passenger rear,
1) 1-2-3-HOLD the brake pedal
2) Crack open the bleeder valve and let the brake fluid come out(The pedal inside the car will drop to the floor, the person inside continues to HOLD the pedal).
3) Tighten the bleeder valve.
3a) Check brake fluid DO NOT let it empty, replace cap.
4) Once the bleeder valve is tightened the pedal can be released.
5) Repeat steps 1-4 until the fluid is consistently coming out with no air, you'll know it when you see it.
6) Move to the next wheel, Drivers side rear and repeat steps 1-5
7) Move to the passenger side front wheel repeat steps 1-5
8) Move to the driver side front wheel
It is critical that the person on the brakes DOES NOT LET UP ON THE BRAKE PEDAL until the bleeder valve is tightened. If it happens you introduce air into the system, which is what you're trying to get rid of and will double the work.
PITA but it's pretty simple.