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Ponies on The Run (Again)

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Old 9/9/08, 08:25 PM
  #23181  
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Originally Posted by Robbieg
Yeah, I do remember now that you say that. I am on vacation this week and next week and I'm not doing anything, if you want some help looking at it I'll be happy to give you a hand, 2 heads are better than 1.
I might take you up on that offer. I'm going to see how Thursday goes. Hopefully they figure it out, don't see why they shouldn't. And anyways I wouldn't mind seeing that ride of yours
Old 9/9/08, 08:25 PM
  #23182  
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Originally Posted by 89Trooper
You'll be much happier... I could see using newer technology for an Air/Fuel ratio meter, maybe... but not for a vacuum gauge. Sometimes simpler is better.
I agree with you there Trooper but he's already got the money into the electric, if it's a simple fix mites-well use it.
Old 9/9/08, 08:26 PM
  #23183  
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Originally Posted by 89Trooper
You'll be much happier... I could see using newer technology for an Air/Fuel ratio meter, maybe... but not for a vacuum gauge. Sometimes simpler is better.
I agree, simple is sometimes better
Old 9/9/08, 08:31 PM
  #23184  
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Originally Posted by fabman
There is a reason for that...the front roll couple of the stock sway bar and stock spring rate is quite low, with the stiffer after market springs your wheel rate went up even though the sway bar was disconnected....add to this that the center of gravity is now closer to the roll center of the car effectively shortening the moment arm against the roll center, your car will naturally roll less....it's simple geometry. It probably handles as good as you need it to for what you are doing....which is perfect in this case.

(Look back a few pages for a dissertation on roll couple)

Like I said, it's a trade off. It would certainly be much faster through the corners with the sway bar....but in this case, we've traded corner speed for....what, a few pounds right?


If you like it....then it's a good trade.
Agreed!

Just for the record... it's a 26.5 lb weight reduction when removing the front swaybar and installing the swaybar-delete kit. I didn't do it to gain any time in the 1/4-mile, but it offsets the added weight of the turbine and intercooler almost perfectly!
Old 9/9/08, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 89Trooper
Nah... you need springs.

Actually, I need a swaybar less since I have lowered springs.

All kidding aside, my car sways MUCH less through hard turns with my Steeda springs and no front swaybar, than it did with the factory springs and front swaybar installed.

Daily driver = absolutely no need for a swaybar.
Road racing = definitely need a swaybar.

You'll never SWAY me on this topic!

Here you go....

(Quoted from my discussion with Leo)

Lots of drag racers disconnect the front sway bar for weight transfer...and thats okay, but you sacrifice cornering ability.

Back in the day there were some racers on oval tracks doing away with the front sway bar too....mostly dirt track cars but some asphalt boys subscribed to this method as well. You can do it but you have to return the wheel rate to it's original value so that the car feels the same in a turn.

First solve for wheel rate:
Spring rate X motion ratio (D1/D2) then solve for the anti roll bar rate at it's attachment point-(solve for it's motion ratio) X bar rate and then add to get the the total wheel rate. This is known as "Roll Couple".

Now increase the spring rate to bring the total wheel rate (with out the sway bar) up to the same wheel rate it had with the sway bar and it will have a similar corner response to a car with the sway bar still connected.

The down side is that with the increased wheel rate the tires will run hotter under all conditions instead of just hotter during cornering.....which is why that method was sh*t canned back in the stone age.


My suggestion is:
Leave the sway bar on....disconnect one link at the track....drag race.....hook it back up...drive home.

Best of both worlds.

Last edited by fabman; 9/9/08 at 08:34 PM.
Old 9/9/08, 08:34 PM
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Of course, that negates the weight savings.....but that is the story on how roll couple works....
Old 9/9/08, 08:35 PM
  #23187  
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Originally Posted by Robbieg
I agree with you there Trooper but he's already got the money into the electric, if it's a simple fix mites-well use it.
Definitely... hope you guys can figure it out!

http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/0598A.pdf
Old 9/9/08, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by fabman
Of course, that negates the weight savings.....but that is the story on how roll couple works....
See above if you missed... post 23185.
Old 9/9/08, 08:40 PM
  #23189  
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Right....just was sayin'....thats how it works.
Old 9/9/08, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 89Trooper
Definitely... hope you guys can figure it out!

http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/0598A.pdf
Thanks for the PDF Trooper, Jon I bet this is your problem. Read from step 8 and it describes the auto calibration and how to hook it up. I bet they hooked it up to a bad power source.
Old 9/9/08, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by fabman
Right....just was sayin'....thats how it works.
Good info! Just didn't know if you saw that I cared about the weight savings for a different reason than most.
Old 9/9/08, 08:42 PM
  #23192  
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Originally Posted by Robbieg
Thanks for the PDF Trooper, Jon I bet this is your problem. Read from step 8 and it describes the auto calibration and how to hook it up. I bet they hooked it up to a bad power source.
No prob!

Now I want a Peak Recall !!!!
Old 9/9/08, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 89Trooper
You always knew I was with ya!

Plus, the added weight of the Turbo was countered by getting rid of that rediculously heavy front mount!... right Leo?
Yup.

Originally Posted by fabman
There is a reason for that...the front roll couple of the stock sway bar and stock spring rate is quite low, with the stiffer after market springs your wheel rate went up even though the sway bar was disconnected....add to this that the center of gravity is now closer to the roll center of the car effectively shortening the moment arm against the roll center, your car will naturally roll less....it's simple geometry. It probably handles as good as you need it to for what you are doing....which is perfect in this case.

(Look back a few pages for a dissertation on roll couple)

Like I said, it's a trade off. It would certainly be much faster through the corners with the sway bar....but in this case, we've traded corner speed for....what, a few pounds right?


If you like it....then it's a good trade.
I like it. So it's a good trade.
Old 9/9/08, 10:16 PM
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Probably turned in already but, hi Tom! How's the weather?!
Old 9/9/08, 10:22 PM
  #23195  
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Originally Posted by 89Trooper
Definitely... hope you guys can figure it out!

http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/0598A.pdf
Thank you, least I understand how the install went.

Originally Posted by Robbieg
Thanks for the PDF Trooper, Jon I bet this is your problem. Read from step 8 and it describes the auto calibration and how to hook it up. I bet they hooked it up to a bad power source.
I think so too, I mean its the only thing I can think of. The gauge did work before they rewired everything. I wonder how hard it would be to find this wire and fix it myself...
Old 9/9/08, 10:52 PM
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Where the heck is Jed and his pictures from Sunday?
Old 9/9/08, 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by habu
Was RET able to give you any type of initial indication of what the problem might be ??
Yes. It's not a tune issue, but a combination of other stuff.

Will update later.
Old 9/9/08, 11:10 PM
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oh boy, please say that the TR wont be out of comission again
Old 9/9/08, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by TacoBill
Yes. It's not a tune issue, but a combination of other stuff.

Will update later.
Not good man.

Last edited by habu; 9/9/08 at 11:33 PM.
Old 9/9/08, 11:22 PM
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Go f'n figure the one mod you don't do yourself.


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