Ponies on The Run (Again)
9/3/08, 07:48 AM
Maybe on "play day" that means a freebie. 
9/3/08, 08:42 AM
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Main reason for getting these though is that now when I go to the track instead of having to unbolt all the spacers before installing my track tires I can just slide the spacers off and on. With the old spacers it was like having to switch eight tires.
Here's some pics I found online of both types of spacers.
Hubcentric (Keeps your stock studs)
Lugcentric (Keeps stock studs) These are the like my old spacers.
Hubcentric (Replace stock studs) These are like my new ones.
Backend of a hubcentric spacer. Lugcentic spacers don't have that indentation.
Sorry for the spacer 101.
9/3/08, 10:21 AM
Legacy TMS Member
Ahhhh... I thought you would appreciate that. 
I appreciated the Spacer 101 Leo, thanks. 
Hmm.....where to start???? There's two different types of wheel spacers lugcentric and hubcentric. Lugcentric spacers are flat on both sides of the spacer and depend on the studs for for centering. Hubcentric spacers have grooved area on the backside that allows them to sit on the hub as if it where the rim then as a hub on the front side to allow the wheel to sit as if it where on the stock hub. Both of those variations are offered in "adapter style" (Meaning you install the spacer on the stock studs and the wheels on the studs pressed into the spacer.) Then there's just a normal spacer where your required to replace the stock studs with longer ones. All the big comapnies like Eibach, H&R, and Maxium Motorsports sell both variations but hubcentric with the longer studs is from my understanding the safer option. Never had a problem with my lugcentric spacers though.
Main reason for getting these though is that now when I go to the track instead of having to unbolt all the spacers before installing my track tires I can just slide the spacers off and on. With the old spacers it was like having to switch eight tires.
Here's some pics I found online of both types of spacers.
Hubcentric (Keeps your stock studs)
Lugcentric (Keeps stock studs) These are the like my old spacers.
Hubcentric (Replace stock studs) These are like my new ones.
Backend of a hubcentric spacer. Lugcentic spacers don't have that indentation.
Sorry for the spacer 101.
Main reason for getting these though is that now when I go to the track instead of having to unbolt all the spacers before installing my track tires I can just slide the spacers off and on. With the old spacers it was like having to switch eight tires.
Here's some pics I found online of both types of spacers.
Hubcentric (Keeps your stock studs)
Lugcentric (Keeps stock studs) These are the like my old spacers.
Hubcentric (Replace stock studs) These are like my new ones.
Backend of a hubcentric spacer. Lugcentic spacers don't have that indentation.
Sorry for the spacer 101.
9/3/08, 11:11 AM
Leo's now the official POTR Spacer Professor. 
Picked up 6 quarts of Mobil 5W30 conventional oil and a Mobil 1 filter yesterday. Came pretty close to getting the Motorcraft synthetic blend, but decided last minute not to do it. There's just too many people against running any type of synthethic at this stage to disagree with.
Hopefully will get my oil changed by the weekend. I will start getting on it a little harder now, but still no WOT or full boost. Next stop after this will be the dyno.. at the tune of another $100.
Picked up 6 quarts of Mobil 5W30 conventional oil and a Mobil 1 filter yesterday. Came pretty close to getting the Motorcraft synthetic blend, but decided last minute not to do it. There's just too many people against running any type of synthethic at this stage to disagree with.
Hopefully will get my oil changed by the weekend. I will start getting on it a little harder now, but still no WOT or full boost. Next stop after this will be the dyno.. at the tune of another $100.
9/3/08, 01:54 PM
Someone's got nuts the size of coconuts today. 
Oh btw Tom, found a carshow for you to enter in... click here
Only requirement is having a wood dash.
Oh btw Tom, found a carshow for you to enter in... click here
Only requirement is having a wood dash.
9/3/08, 10:56 PM
9/3/08, 11:10 PM
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Leo's now the official POTR Spacer Professor.
Picked up 6 quarts of Mobil 5W30 conventional oil and a Mobil 1 filter yesterday. Came pretty close to getting the Motorcraft synthetic blend, but decided last minute not to do it. There's just too many people against running any type of synthethic at this stage to disagree with.
Hopefully will get my oil changed by the weekend. I will start getting on it a little harder now, but still no WOT or full boost. Next stop after this will be the dyno.. at the tune of another $100.
Picked up 6 quarts of Mobil 5W30 conventional oil and a Mobil 1 filter yesterday. Came pretty close to getting the Motorcraft synthetic blend, but decided last minute not to do it. There's just too many people against running any type of synthethic at this stage to disagree with.
Hopefully will get my oil changed by the weekend. I will start getting on it a little harder now, but still no WOT or full boost. Next stop after this will be the dyno.. at the tune of another $100.
Someone's got nuts the size of coconuts today.
Oh btw Tom, found a carshow for you to enter in... click here
Only requirement is having a wood dash.
Oh btw Tom, found a carshow for you to enter in... click here
Only requirement is having a wood dash.
Pitch or catch it's still:gay:.Installed the rear spacers today. Everything was going fine until it came time to put the calipers back on. Like an idiot I pressed on the brakes after they were off the rotor. Little did I know the rear calipers on our cars can't be compressed using a C-clamp. It requires a special tool. (I'll post pics of this tool and of the install when I finish the fronts. After an hour of trying to compress the stupid things and a couple conversations with Bill he found out that our rear pistons have to be "turned" back in. So I took a trip to Autozone and rented the stupid tool. Wish I'd of known about it before. Tool looks like a a half dollar with nipples that you attach to a socket wrench. So for all of you changing your brake pads in the near future know you will need this tool. Dam Ford.
While I had the rotors off I decided to spray paint the slotted and crossdrilled areas black as they were beginning to show signs of rust. I'll be doing the same to the front when I finish the spacer install this weekend.
NFL Season kicks off tomorrow night.
9/3/08, 11:15 PM
I know Leo I was all set to change my pads with the rotors and then I found out about this. Luckily I found out before hand, but since then I haven't wanted to mess with it.
Bill ignore this next remark:
"Are you ready for some football!!!!"
Bill ignore this next remark:
"Are you ready for some football!!!!"
Last edited by 2k7gtcs; 9/3/08 at 11:35 PM.
9/3/08, 11:20 PM
Legacy TMS Member
Installed the rear spacers today. Everything was going fine until it came time to put the calipers back on. Like an idiot I pressed on the brakes after they were off the rotor. Little did I know the rear calipers on our cars can't be compressed using a C-clamp. It requires a special tool. (I'll post pics of this tool and of the install when I finish the fronts. After an hour of trying to compress the stupid things and a couple conversations with Bill he found out that our rear pistons have to be "turned" back in. So I took a trip to Autozone and rented the stupid tool. Wish I'd of known about it before. Tool looks like a a half dollar with nipples that you attach to a socket wrench. So for all of you changing your brake pads in the near future know you will need this tool. Dam Ford.
While I had the rotors off I decided to spray paint the slotted and crossdrilled areas black as they were beginning to show signs of rust. I'll be doing the same to the front when I finish the spacer install this weekend.
While I had the rotors off I decided to spray paint the slotted and crossdrilled areas black as they were beginning to show signs of rust. I'll be doing the same to the front when I finish the spacer install this weekend.
9/3/08, 11:20 PM
Team Mustang Source
Bill he found out that our rear pistons have to be "turned" back in. So I took a trip to Autozone and rented the stupid tool. Wish I'd of known about it before. Tool looks like a a half dollar with nipples that you attach to a socket wrench. So for all of you changing your brake pads in the near future know you will need this tool. Dam Ford.
Actually it's like that for just about all rear wheel disc brake systems. It's the parking brake that requires that you ratchet or screw the caliper piston back into the caliper. My grandpa's Buick was like this, Mom's Bonneville and My old VW. It's just the way it is.
Anyway good to see you got it fixed. PITA until you figure it out though.
Anyone up for a UCA mini-install party on or around sept 26-27th ?? Decided to finally install it instead of selling it. Figure that with the DRs it will only help.
9/3/08, 11:33 PM
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Actually it's like that for just about all rear wheel disc brake systems. It's the parking brake that requires that you ratchet or screw the caliper piston back into the caliper. My grandpa's Buick was like this, Mom's Bonneville and My old VW. It's just the way it is.
Anyway good to see you got it fixed. PITA until you figure it out though.
Anyone up for a UCA mini-install party on or around sept 26-27th ?? Decided to finally install it instead of selling it. Figure that with the DRs it will only help.
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Anyway good to see you got it fixed. PITA until you figure it out though.
Anyone up for a UCA mini-install party on or around sept 26-27th ?? Decided to finally install it instead of selling it. Figure that with the DRs it will only help.
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I'm in as long as there's beer.
