Darn! I missed looking at what post number we were at, otherwise I would've posted 1 more bit of useless trivia!

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...rippedhand.gif

I just wanted to be post #1002

Tom, check your PM. A little surprise in there for you :)
Bill, if you look at my Mod List you will figure it out rather quickly.
No need to be a post ***** to get post # 1003 :)

Daryl and I are now the proud owners of Shakers!

LOL D**n you didn't even make them work for it. :)
Up Next??? I think that should read (Ordered) now :-D
The only question I have now, is when will I have time to install it ?? :(
Maybe next weekend as I will be out of town again this coming weekend.

Uh oh! Here comes the Shaker Brothers! http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...assshaking.gif

This will be the biggest mod to date for the both of you!

I see mounds of research in the near future. I'll help ya' guys where I can.

OMG that *** shaking emoticon is d a m n funny :-D
Only difference from this mod and previous ones for me is, if I screw up I can't just take it off. :eek:
Hmm, I bet Tom gets his Shaker before me too :(

For installing the Hood Stripes, I used the same method as on the roof. I measured, using a flexible tape measure (vinyl fabric tape measure with the metal ends taped) from the back of the hood toward the front and placed a mark (using a grease pencil) at 6", 18", 30" 42" and the front of the hood. I also repeated this process for the other side of the hood. I then placed a flexible tape measure from one side to the other at each marked location, found the center and marked the hood center with the grease pencil. The center of my hood fell on the center hood ridge the entire length of the hood.
I then took some 1½" (36mm) Green 3M Scotch Automotive Masking Tape and marked the center of it with a pen. Then I aligned the marked center of the masking tape with the center marks on the hood ans masked the entire length of the hood.
Attachment 1616
Then I opened the hood, and removed the hood liner retaining clips to get to the washer nozzles. There are retaining tangs on each side of a washer nozzle, depress these and push the nozzle upward and through the front side of the hood. Make sure to pull a little of the washer hose with you and then twist and pull the nozzle from the hose. (repeat for second nozzle)
It was time to shut the hood and apply the stripes. Again I wet the hood thoroughly with the solution, peeled the stripe from the backing paper, sprayed the back and laid it on the hood. Maintain a ¼" gap between the 1½" masking tape and the hood stripe to obtain a 2" gap. Slide the piece into position (leave some overhang at the front and rear) and squeegee the water out starting in the middle center and working your way outward and to each end. Try to remove any remaining bubbles with your fingers.
Leave the overhangs on each end and let the dry while you cut the washer nozzle holes. Take a razor knife (X-Acto) and cut an "X" in the hole for the washer nozzle, doing so from the top of the hood. Fold the vinyl into the nozzle hole, open the hood and press the vinyl flat against the inside if the hood.
Replace the washer nozzles, reconnect the hoses and replace the hood insulation.
Now that the overhang on the edges has dried a little, fold them under at each end and press them flat against the inside of the hood.

Attachment 1617Attachment 1618Attachment 1628Attachment 1629

Looking good!:nice:
When do you finish?

Thanks :-D
Hopefully this week. I might take half day off on Thursday or Friday to finish up.

I think your signature would have given it away pretty quick, anyway.

LOOKIN' GREAT! Excellent job, Daryl! :nice:

Now, if I can be as successful...

I guess the hood only took you around an hour to complete? Any issues this time around with the striping of the hood?

Tell me the juicy details...
Hood tape centering. Go off the center hood 'crease'?

Tape. Same method of taping used? Grease marked center, marked center tape pieces, overlayed by a long tape run?

Washer nozzles. How did the hood insulation liner go? How are the nozzles attached to the hood? 'X' cut worked to your satisfaction?

Overlap. Would you please post pics of the underhood overlap, both front and rear of the hood? Wondering what the underside will look like when the hood is open at carshows.

Good luck on the front bumper. Like I mentioned before, when I did my little test, it wasn't too bad, but did require some finesse with the blow dryer.

Did they say they would ship tomorrow morning? I may get it before you, but I don't know if I'll have time to put it on until the end of the month.

Back from West End Alignment. Darin, the shop owner, is my front end alignment specialist. He has years of track and street alignment experience with Mustangs, Porsches and all imports. All measurements and adjustments are by gages and other non-computer instruments. He doesn't go by factory specs, but rather custom alignment settings tailored to individual driving conditions and habits, also does corner balancing.

So, do I trust his judgement and opinion? In short, yes!

Here's the deal...

When checked at max positive camber with the factory strut bolts in place, drivers side measured in at -1.0 degree, passenger side measured at -1.3 degrees.

Factory tolerance: -.75 degrees (+/- .75 degrees) which is 0.0 to -1.5 degrees

Caster was also verified.

It was suggested to me to bring in the drivers side to -1.3 degrees to match the other side in lieu of installing the adjustable camber bolts.

Rationale: Based upon my annual mileage and driving conditions, I won't see any appreciable tire wear for several years (or several thousand miles). Another factor was not driving in the rain, which negative camber can introduce unwanted hydroplaning. Also noted was that it being a show car, I'll most likely replace the tires before they're worn anyway.

Track camber settings can range from -1.5 to 2 degrees of negative camber. At -1.3 degrees, I'm at 'agressive street' driving. http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...ons/3gears.gif

Here's some pics I took during the alignment.
(Also including 1 pic of my underside! :eek: )

Attachment 1653

:rofl:
That is one CLEAN underside Bill :eek:

When checked at max positive camber with the factory strut bolts in place, drivers side measured in at -1.0 degree, passenger side measured at -1.3 degrees.
Both are within factory tolerences which is -.75 degrees (+/- .75 degrees) which is 0.0 to -1.5 degrees.

It was suggested to me to bring in the drivers side to -1.3 degrees to match the other side in lieu of installing the adjustable camber bolts.
How did he do this?

Also:

How far off was toe?

From lowering it, did your steering wheel go EVER SO SLIGHTLY off center when going straight? Mine is a hair turned to the left when I'm going straight. It doesn't pull or drift.

I know all they have to do is put the steering wheel straight when adjusting toe to fix this.

Thanks Bill, :-D, I'm sure you will do just fine and probably better than I did.
Yea hood was easy probably an hour at the most.

No & Yes. I did a method similar to the roof. I started 6" from the front glass and marked both sides, laid the vinyl tape measure across the hood at the lines and marked the center. I did this at 6", 18" 30", 42" and the front of the hood. Then used the center marked masking tape again. The center of my hood actually followed the ridge perfectly. (Ahh no Monday build for my car :-D ) I think this knowledge will speed up the shaker install knowing the center is on the ridge of the hood.
I then removed enough of the Hood Insualtion Retaining Clips to get at the washer nozzles. The washer nozzles are easy to remove once you figure them out.
When you look at them you will see a tang on either side. Squeeze them together and push the nozzle up through the hood along with the rubber tubing. Then remove the nozzle from the rubber tubing.
Yea I like the way they turned out. Didn't I post a pic of them ? I would recommend washer nozzles not cutout.
I will later today if I get a chance. It doesn't look the greatest and I was wondering myself what I could do to make it look better. Maybe trim the pieces evenly to be more viewer friendly.
I don't have a blow dryer, you seen the length of my hair and there is no woman around :)

I used THIS to remove the Hood Insulation Retaining Clips. Worked GREAT

I just knew you'd say something about those grease pencil marks!

Yes sir, I will take care of those marks the next time I'm under there. :)

When checked at max positive camber with the factory strut bolts in place, drivers side measured in at -1.0 degree, passenger side measured at -1.3 degrees.
Both are within factory tolerences which is -.75 degrees (+/- .75 degrees) which is 0.0 to -1.5 degrees.
Then I'm good to GO!! :banana:


It was suggested to me to bring in the drivers side to -1.3 degrees to match the other side in lieu of installing the adjustable camber bolts.
How did he do this?
Dunno, I had to sit in the drivers seat while the alignment was taking place. All I can see, is him going back and forth between the front left and right sides and getting some long bar that went the width of the car. Also, he was checking something in the rear.


How far off was toe?
Have no clue. But, he did have me center the steering wheel while I was seated and felt something he was adjusting.


From lowering it, did your steering wheel go EVER SO SLIGHTLY off center when going straight? Mine is a hair turned to the left when I'm going straight. It doesn't pull or drift.
I know all they have to do is put the steering wheel straight when adjusting toe to fix this.
Before taking it in, I didn't really notice the steering wheel off-center while driving straight. Maybe it was off and I just never noticed it.
After the alignment was complete, he had me road test it on a nearby street that is close to flat as possible (no crown in road), paying close attention to any vibration, hands-free tracking, steering wheel centering, etc. All was perfect.

Total charge for this service? $45 :grin: